MIAMI -- Just because it's too cold for your normal five-kilometre outdoor run doesn't mean the treadmill has to be a monotonous exercise in staring at a blank wall. Los Angeles-based trainers Jeanette Jenkins and Massy Arias offer the following tips for getting out of the treadmill rut. Vary the speed and incline, add arm weights and use the treadmill when it's not running for circuit training moves. Massy Arias has more than 2 million Instagram followers, offering up various moves and inspirational messages on how working out has helped heal her depression. And even though she's nearly eight months pregnant, she's still doing some seriously hardcore workouts. "Treadmills don't have to be boring and don't need to keep you stagnant. If you are creative, you can turn your steady cardio run into effective workouts that can push even the most advanced athletes." Sprinting can be one of the best exercises for building muscle and decreasing body fat. Try sprinting for one-minute intervals at a speed between 10 and 12 mph. Use a two-minute jog at four mph to recover.
The treadmill doesn't have to be running in order to be effective. Incorporate treadmill push-offs by holding onto the treadmill heart beat sensors and pushing off the belt as fast as you can for 60 seconds. It is extremely challenging and works the legs and glutes. Grab a mat and some moderate- to high-resistance dumbbells. Pair two strength exercises with sprint intervals or a simple fast run. Here are two options: Perform 12 to 15 repetitions of dumbbell squats followed by 12-15 reps on each leg of one-legged lunges with your back foot resting on the treadmill. Follow it with a 30-second run at 10 mph. Repeat three times. Perform eight to 10 wide pushups with feet on the back of the treadmill followed by planks or tricep dips using the treadmill handle bars or modify it using the back of the treadmill. Follow it with a one-minute run at six mph with a 2.0 incline. Founder of The Hollywood Trainer Club with clients like Pink and Alicia Keys, Jeanette Jenkins loves to mix up her treadmill routines with various speeds, inclines and weights.
She has more than a dozen workout DVDs, including "Sexy Abs" with singer Kelly Rowland. "Changing up your pace, speed, incline and exercises every two to five minutes keeps the workout interesting so the time flies and before you know it you will have completed a total body kick butt workout." Jenkins suggests the following 45- to 60-minute workout: 1. Jog at a speed between six and eight mph or at a comfortable warm-up pace for one mile 2. Walk uphill at a 10.0 incline for two minutes then add dumbbell exercises using three- to five-pound weights. As you walk, do 25 repetitions of each: shoulder press, tricep kickbacks and upright rows 3. Pause treadmill, step off and do 25 pushups 4. Get back on the treadmill and sprint for 30-45 seconds at a speed of 10 to 12 mph or your best pace. Recover for 30-60 seconds. 5. Pause the treadmill, step off and do 25 regular squats or 25 jump squats using only your bodyweight. Stand on the side rails or step off the treadmill for more intensity.
6. Get back on the treadmill and walk uphill at an incline of 10.0 for two minutes then grab a pair of weights. While walking, do 25 reps of shoulder presses followed by 25 reps of tricep kickbacks and finish off with 25 reps of upright rows. 7. Sprint 30 to 45 seconds at a speed 10 to 12 mph or your best pace. 8. Pause treadmill, step off and do 25 pushups 9. Walk at an incline of 10.0 for two minutes then grab a set of weights. Do 10 to 16 reps each of rotating overhead press. Set your weights down and do 50 to 100 boxing jabs, alternating with each arm. Finish off with 10 to 16 reps of tricep extensions. 10. Pause the treadmill, step off and do 25 jump squats or regular squats using only your bodyweight. 11. Sprint 30 to 45 seconds at a speed 10 to 12 mph or your best pace. Recover for 30 to 60 seconds. 13. 25 jump squats or regular squats 14. Finish strong with a one-mile jog between six and eight mph or your best pace. For the last half mile, increase your speed by 0.5 every 30 seconds going to 6.5, seven, 7.5 etc.
Listen to your body and only increase the speed to a pace you can maintain with good form. 15. Finish with abs by doing 100 bicycle crunches. Be the first to Save an Extra 10% on All Clearance Products 6 Months Special Financing with an hhgregg credit cardYou are here: » Pinewood Derby Rail Riding The Art of “Rail Riding” Copyright: Derby Worx / Warp Speed Inc. 2008 Since the start of the Pinewood Derby® in 1953 both common sense and the laws of physics have told us that to get the fastest car possible you need to get the car to go perfectly straight without ever touching the center guide strip. This would be the fastest way possible if we lived in a perfect world. and even if a “perfectly aligned” car could be achieved, and ran on a “perfectly level” track it would take a very small misalignment (a couple thousands of an inch) in staging to cause this “perfect car” to hit the guide strip. Not only will this “perfect car” hit the guide strip,
it will do it numerous times during the course of the run, each time losing precious energy and fractions of a second. The laws of physics tell us that for every action, there is an equalAs this “Perfectly aligned” car hits the center strip these laws cause it to change direction thus causing it to hit the guide rail on the other side. forth motion will usually continue through out the run causing numerous impacts with the center strip. These impacts cause a braking effect where, just like tapping the brakes in your car, it slows the Pinewood Derby® car as well. only does this eat up precious energy we could use to propel the car towards the finish line, it causes the car to go into a back and forth motion bouncing from side to side off of the guide strip. This effectively lengthens the traveled path of the car thus making the track seem longer than it is. The longer the traveled path, the more time it takes to travel this distance.
This is the problem Pinewood Derby® racers have been trying to overcome for the When I started helping my son with his first Pinewood Derby® in 2001 I did as most in the modern era have done and turned to the internet for as much information as I could get on the techniques of making a fast car. I studied every web-site, article and forumBought numerous web books and we studied them all. We did well our first year coming in 2nd in Pack and 8th in DistrictWe had so much fun researching information and building the car we started right away on next years car. We purchased a test track, made several cars and started testing allIt was during this testing that we found “RailWe noticed that we could build identical cars, put the same wheels and axles on them, align them to go perfectly straight but there would be a huge difference in time between them. fastest cars were always the most steady (no side to side oscillation) but some were markedly faster than others.
Set on getting to get to the bottom of this I started watching the cars from the finish end of the track, and from behind the track at the starting gate. I noticed the fastest cars didn’t go straight, but went to the center rail with the dominant front wheel (the one touching the track on a 3 wheeler, or the one carrying the most weight in a four wheel touching configuration) soon after the start gateThe slower cars always did this with the non-dominant front (raised wheel) and would either oscillate back and forth, or stay there and run really slow, sometimes even making a “squealing” noise. Thus began the “Rail Riding” era in Pinewood Derby® racing. Through more testing we found “Rail Riding” was by far the fastest way to set-up a car, and could be easily duplicated from one car to the next. This set-up allowed my son to go undefeated for the next 4 years in Cub Scouts (from pack through state races) and helped to win the “WIRL National Stock class Championship” and
overall “Builder of the Year” in 2005. This is how “Rail Riding/Rail Hugging” was invented, and we believe it is the single biggest change to Pinewood Derby® since the start of it 55 years ago!!! A short description follows on how to set one up along with a couple of tips on making it effective. This method makes for a straight, fast, easy to align car, especially for those without a test track. First, drill the body with our Pro Body Tool, straighten your axles with a Pro Axle Press and polish them. Mark the axle at 1/2" from the head and put a dot at 12:00 on the head with a sharpie. Then install the axle into our Pro Axle Press at the .1/2" mark with the dot on the head down and slightly bend the axle with aAnother way to achieve this is to mount a spare wheel (one not going to be used in competition) on the axle before inserting it in the Pro Axle press (wheel against axle head) and gently push up on this wheel to achieve the required bend.
a digital caliper to measure from the head of the axle to the work bench to verify my bend. On the rear axles we like to start with a .020" bend and .014" on the front axle. use our Rail Rider tool to accurately Then install the rear axles with the dot up at 12:00 as well as the front axle (dominant wheel). The car should roll forward and backwards with the rear wheels staying on the axle heads. If not, rotate the rear axles slightly fore and aft until both are perfect and do not migrate. fore or aft of the front axle (dominant side) to steer the carThe amount of “steer” or “drift” needed will vary from track to track and with different set-up (weight placement, condition of wheels etc.) but 2" drift towards the non-dominant (raised) front wheel over a 4' test roll will give you a good starting point that should be fairly competitive at most levels of racing. It is also recommended that the front “dominant” side