Ideas Dining TableDr TableMake A TableDining Room TablesKitchen TableFlooring CraftsLaminate CraftsScrap Laminate Flooring ProjectsLaminate Flooring UsesForwardLaminate floor table top! If my table top ever gets too scratched up I'm going to try this. A laminate table top is hard wearing and practical for the kitchen. You can easily apply laminate to a table top giving it a new lease of life at a fraction of the cost of replacing the table. Step 1 - Choose Your Laminate Laminate is available in sheets from most hardware stores. It is generally between 0.5 and 1.5 mm thick. You should also look out for the technical specifications on the manufacturer's guidelines that will show you how good the laminate's resistance to wear, scratching, staining and fire is. If your laminate is not self adhesive, you will also require wood glue. Step 2 - Prepare Your Table First you should prepare your table ready for laminating by sanding the top down with sandpaper. This will give the table a smooth surface ready for the laminate.
Once you have fully sanded down the surface down, remove the dust with a soft cloth or a vacuum cleaner with a soft brush attachment. If the table already has a laminated or veneered surface, you will need to remove this first with a chisel. Wedge the chisel underneath the veneer and ply the layer off a little at a time. Use protective goggles when you are doing this in case any splinters come off. You will be able to sand down any dried on glue that is left underneath. Step 3 - Measuring Your Table Before you cut the laminate, you need to measure the table top with a tape measure. You should then add an inch to each side of the table measurements when measuring and cutting out the laminate. Step 4 - Measure and Cut the Laminate You should then measure the laminate to your table measurements and carefully cut with a utility knife. Use a large rule to make sure you cut the sides in a straight line, cutting along the side of the rule with the knife. Take care not to scratch the new laminate.
Step 5 - Applying the Laminate Remove the backing from the self adhesive laminate and position the laminate so that each table edge has the extra inch of laminate hanging over it. If you are gluing your laminate, apply a thin layer of wood glue to the table before placing the laminate. Press the laminate firmly down onto the table top and push firmly over the laminate to secure it. It is always a good idea to then cover the table with books or other heavy objects and leave it over night so that the adhesive layer has a full chance to set. Once you are satisfied that the laminate is fully secure you should now carefully cut around the table using some heavy duty scissors to remove the excess laminate from each of the table sides. Step 6 - Finishing the Table The last stage is to sand the edges of the table lightly so that there is an even finish all the way round.You have to keep two things in mind when you’re working with plastic laminate. stuff is brittle, so you’ve got to keep it supported
when you cut it or move it from place toA twist or tight bend will crack it. Second, the edges can be sharp, especially after cutting, so handle the piece carefully. have all types of special tools for cutting this stuff, but you’ll find that the carbide tool shown will work just fine. You can find it at your home center, usually in the tile department. It’s got two sharp tips for cutting. straightedge will work to guide the cutter. to use the aluminum guide for my circular saw. Measure and mark your plastic laminate to size (at least 1 in. larger in each direction), clamp a straightedge over the mark and draw the cutting edge lightly from one end to theThis initial score is critical, so keep a steady hand. Score it again along the same line, adding more pressure. it a few more times, the laminate will be cutWith more experience, you can snap it after a couple of scores. But until then, just score it until you cut
all the way through. Now cut it to length and you’re ready to glue. The best adhesive to use is a solvent-basedIt’s volatile, so provide lots of ventilation and wear an organic vapor mask to avoid breathing the fumes. You also have to keep it away from flames and pilot lights. If you can glue the laminate outside in temperatures above 55 degrees F, do it. Water-based contact cement has less fumes, but it’s fussier to use and requires two and sometimes three coats to get a good bond. Apply the contact cement to the bottom side of the worktop and to the backside of the plastic laminate with a 1/4-in. nap roller (Photo 7). It’s best to start with the bottom side of the worktop so you can become familiar with the gluing and routing processes. goof will be on the bottom and no one willBuy a good-quality roller (one that doesn’t shed fibers) for rolling on the contactRoll it on the backside of the laminate first so you can use the workpiece as a table.
Lift the laminate carefully and set it aside to dry. Then apply the cement to the worktop. both dry for 30 minutes. Contact cement bonds when the two dry-to-the-touch coated surfaces meet. immediate, leaving no possibility of readjusting. That’s why it’s necessary to use slip sticks to separate the two surfaces while you positionHave your slip sticks ready to go. I made mine from scrap 2x4 that I ripped down to 1/4-in.-thick strips. You can also use dowels or even molding strips as long as they’re the same thickness. Just be sure they’re not dusty. Set the slip sticks every 3 in. along the top so the laminate and worktop surfaces won’t touch. Position the laminate on the sticks and make sure the laminate overhangs eachNow pull out one of the center strips, then the next. The top will start to fall onto the other surface. Press the top of the laminate lightly as you pull out adjacent sticks (Photo 9) one at a time. Work your way from the center out to the edges.