kitchen floor plywood

kitchen floor plywood

kitchen floor plans elevations

Kitchen Floor Plywood

CLICK HERE TO CONTINUE




Got a question about this project?What are the steps to remove ceramic tile from a kitchen floor? Removing ceramic tiles from a kitchen floor or any surface requires the right tools and knowledge of what's under the tile and includes either prying them up with a crowbar or using a saw to break them up. After assembling the proper materials, those do-it-yourselfers undertaking this project should remove a few tiles to see what's underneath and proceed accordingly. How do you calculate the number of tiles you will need? How do you calculate the number of floor tiles you need? How do you put ceramic tile on a tabletop? Getting the right tools A chisel, shovel, trash can or wheelbarrow, hammer, mallet and sledgehammer are good basic tools to have for this project, although the exact tools needed will depend on what's underneath the tile. Prior to breaking or removing tile, it's a good idea to disconnect any water pipes or electrical lines that might get hit or damaged during removal and empty the room of anything that might get in the way or get ruined by debris.




Covering counters is also wise to make cleanup easier. Breaking up tiles may generate dust and small fragments, so safety goggles and thick gloves are necessary to protect hands from sharp tile. Check under the tile The sledgehammer can be used to break a small section of tile, preferably not right against the wall, after which a chisel can be used to pry up some of the broken pieces and see what's underneath. The material under the tile will determine the approach to completing the project. The process if the tile is on masonry and tar paper This is the best-case scenario because it results in the easiest removal process. If the tiles aren't attached to plywood or some other hard material, it should be easy to pry up sheets of tile with tool that provides suitable leverage, like a flat shovel. The process if the tile is Attached to a hard surface Tile that is laid down directly on a hard surface is a bit harder to remove. This requires the use of a saw to cut through the plywood or cement board in order to get leverage on the bottom of this hard material and remove it.




Home improvement novices may want to find additional assistance. Learn more about Building Materials What is the best, easiest-to-install type of new flooring for a kitchen? Options for easy flooring include installing floating floors of engineered wood, applying paint or laying a cork or vinyl tile floor. All of these options ... What are some good sources for ceramic tile pattern ideas for the kitchen floor? Better Homes and Gardens and HGTV are two good sources for ceramic tile pattern ideas for the kitchen floor. Both of their websites provide photos and deta... How do you tile a round table top?After laying several tiles, cover them with a clean plywood board ... What are some creative layout ideas for wall tile and backsplash patterns? Using different colored or patterned wall tiles can make some creative layouts for tile patterns, such as herringbone, offset, crosshatch and straight set.... What is the minimum pitch for an asphalt shingled roof?




What is rock wool insulation used for? How do you clean tile? What are some pros and cons cited in cork flooring reviews? Where can you find used tin roofing for sale? How do you make a mosaic tile pattern?Skip to main content 2016 Project Idea Book represents the products we carry in stock on a regular basis, all at the Guaranteed Lowest Price. Bargain Outlets has kitchen Cabinets, floors, windows, and doors at the guaranteed lowest price. When recently redoing the room above our garage, we decided that we were DONE with the carpet. Our plans were to rip it up, plank the floor, and then paint it. We never expected the plywood planking that we made to look good enough to STAIN! 16 sheets of 15/32 pine plywood @ $16.49 per sheet 9 gigantic tubes of Liquid Nail @ $4.75 each 10 lbs of cut nails (ordered from Tremont Nail Company) @ $69.63 (includes s&h) 4 gallons of Varathane polyurethane @ $37.46 per gallon 2 quarts of stain @ $9.99 eachSquare footage of the room: 533




Rough estimate of cost: $520 We started the project with sheets of plywood. We ripped them on the table saw into 6 inch strips that were all 8 feet long. Then, we Dustin carried all of this up to the house so it could sit and “acclimate” to the room. I don’t know if that helped, but that is something that is recommended when laying hardwood flooring. It, surprisingly, only took us an hour and 45 minutes to cut the sheets into the planks. With the materials purchased and gathered, Dustin cleaned up the room with the shop vac. He made sure all the subfloor panels were nailed down securely. Some required him to add some screws to make  sure they were tight. View Full AlbumThen the fun started. We measured and figured… measured some more.. Before we began, we made sure to figure out our pattern so that each row of flooring would alternate where the nails were. We also knew that we would need to cut shorter pieces for the end that were around 11 inches long.




We wanted those “short” pieces to alternate back and forth with each row. We started with the first board and squared it with the wall, leaving a 1/16 inch gap between the first board and the wall. We dry fitted it before applying a bead of Liquid Nail along the length of the board. We put the board in place and Dustin hammered in the nails on the marks. Later, he went though with a nail punch to make sure that the nails were at least flush with the flooring. View Full AlbumBetween each board and each row, we left a 1/16 gap. The plan all along was to paint this flooring, so we wanted it to LOOK like planks instead of just a solid, painted panel floor. We worked our way back and forth, alternating which side we started on with each row. We didn’t worry about the 11 inch pieces we needed for each end until we were completely finished with the room. We wanted the nails to be in line, so we started this process by marking them as we went. (Later, I started marking them ahead of him because I wasn’t much help anywhere else).




This also really sped up the process since he didn’t need to measure every 16 inches. After a while, Dustin made a jig to help with the measuring and marking for where the nails went. Then I just had to line it up with the previous board and mark rather than measure for every single nail. We ended up using 11 nails per board by alternating two nails then one then two, etc, as you can see in the above picture. We wanted it to have some order and thought they would look nicer lined up. We originally only nailed every 16 inches with two nails. When he took the first break, we realized that we needed to secure it a little more. The Liquid Nail was still wet and the board were moving up and down when we walked on them. That’s when he went back and added the single nail in line with each board. Once it was all finished, we sanded the rough places and the spots where there was a little bit of blue and green paint from the lumber yard. As always, we had animal support throughout the whole process. 




Up until this point here, we planned to paint the boards dark brown. We wanted a dark farmhouse plank floor look. We never imagined when we started that this would be a stainable project. We hand stained the whole floor. There are tools that are made to make it easier and faster. We’ve never used them and wanted to make sure the stain went on evenly. And, we were dealing with plywood so we weren’t really sure what it was going to do. It went on perfectly… and in 4.5 hours. We coated the floor with four coats of ploy. The first coat took about 8 hours to dry. We really didn’t want to have to sand between coats, so we made sure to recoat within 12 hours. He used a bristle applicator rather than a wool one. It seemed like he had better control over the thickness with it. We had to evacuate the house at night while it was drying. It was in the 30s outside, so opening the windows wasn't’ really an option. He’s not wearing it in the above picture because he had just started, but he did wear a face mask the whole time he did the coats of poly.




Since we didn’t plan to stain this until the last minute, we weren’t concerned with the fact that you could see white spots on the subfloor beneath. We knew that those would get covered up when we painted the floor. Since we didn’t do that, something had to be done. At night, with the overhead lights on, those places GLARED white. I went out and bought some Burnt Sienna Americana paint. One night, while Dustin hung the new ceiling fan, I scooted around on the floor with my Americana paint and a tiny paint brush and filled in the cracks. I wanted to wait until the floor was completely poly’ed and dry because if/hen I got it on the flooring, it wiped right off with a paper towel. It was the perfect color and was the perfect solution for our dilemma. Can you believe that this is the same room? Or, that this floor started its life as plywood?! We are so happy with this flooring and our decisions! By doing this, we have saved well over $1500 that hardwood flooring would have cost.

Report Page