5 Sheets 3/4" Plywood or MDF (includes drawers) 3 - 1x12 @ 6 feet long (drawer faces) 6 - 1x10 @ 8 feet long (drawer boxes) 5 - 2x4, 8 feet or stud length 10 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long 2 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long Cutting List for 2 Benches (SAME AS QUEEN) A) 2 - 3/4" plywood @ 58 1/2" x 15" (back of the benches) B) 4 - 3/4" Plywood @ 20" x 15" (sides of the benches) C) 2 - 3/4" Plywood @ 20 x 60" (top of benches) D) 2 - 3/4" Plywood @ 19 1/4" x 58 1/2" (Shelves) E) 2 - 3/4" Plywood @ 19 1/4" x 12 1/2" (Cubby Divider) F) 2 - 1x2 @ 60" (Trim for face of bench, top) G) 2 - 1x3 @ 60" (Trim for face of bench, bottom) H) 6 - 1x2 @ 11 3/4" (Trim for face of bench, vertical) Cutting List to modify one of the benches to a foot bench Cutting List for the End Bench (Modified for the King) A) 1 - 3/4" plywood @ 74 1/2" x 15" (back of the benches) B) 2 - 3/4" Plywood @ 22 3/4" x 15" (sides of the benches) C) 1 - 3/4" Plywood @ 22 3/4 x 76" (top of benches)
D) 1 - 3/4" Plywood @ 19 1/4" x 74 1/2" (Shelves) E) 1 - 3/4" Plywood @ 22 3/4" x 12 1/2" (Cubby Divider) F) 1 - 1x2 @ 76" (Trim for face of bench, top) G) 1 - 1x3 @ 76" (Trim for face of bench, bottom) H) 3 - 1x2 @ 11 3/4" (Trim for face of bench, vertical) I) 2 - 1x2 @ 24 1/4" (Trim for sides of foot bench, top) J) 2 - 1x3 @ 24 1/4" (Trim for side of foot bench, bottom) K) 2 - 1x2 @ 11 3/4" (Trim for side of foot bench, back corner) L) 2 - 1x3 @ 11 3/4" (Trim for side of foot bench, outside front corner) Cutting List for Center Spacer M) 2 - 2x4 @ 60" (Sides of the spacer) N) 6 - 2x4 @ 33" (Joist for the spacer) O) 1 - 3/4" Plywood @ 36" x 60" (Top of Spacer) The drawer faces of this piece depend on your 1x10s being 11 1/2" wide. Measure and adjust the height of the bed to fit this measurement. Drawers are designed for undermount slides. If you wish to use side mount slides, adjust the drawer width for the slide clearance (normally 1/2" on each side of the drawer).
You will need to in addition build the two side benches as directed in the Queen plans. For the end bench, attach the back to the sides as shown here. Now add the bottom to the end bench as shown here. Attach on all three sides with 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue or 2" screws and glue. Now add the center divider. The top goes on top. This will all be hidden, so go ahead and screw right through the top into the sides, back and dividers. Trim out the front as shown here. I would use finish nails and glue. The sides will match the face frame trim on the side benches if you trim them out. Use 1 1/4" finish nails and glue. Construct the spacer and use it to attach the three benches (two queen size and the end king). Lay plywood on top or wood slats. Begin constructing the drawers as shown here. Add the fronts and backs. Mount the faceless drawer into the bed with undermount slides. The drawer will inset 3/4", giving space for the drawer face (next step).
Place the drawer face on the drawer and attach with 1 1/4" snails and glue, leaving an even gap around all sides. Attach handles or knobs as desired. Project plans include dimensions for a twin-, full-, queen-, or king-size mattress (no need for box springs with this platform bed). Size your bed from one of two plan options. For the queen or king size, use Plan Set 1. For a twin or full size, use Plan Set 2. Queen-and king-size beds require a center divider in the end case and longer side cases to support the larger mattress. For a light wood option, substitute birch plywood and edge tape for all of the plywood parts, and replace oak with maple or poplar. Or paint it to coordinate with your bedroom colors. To add a modern twist, use MDF (medium density fiberboard) with no edge tape, and apply a clear polyurethane finish. You can also choose a variety of stain colors or apply a clear finish to the oak. Cut the 3/4-inch plywood into smaller sections to create the side-case bottoms/tops (A), dividers (B), side backs (C), end-case top/bottom (D), and the end-case back (E) (Project Diagram, Cutting Diagram and Cutting List).
If you are building the queen- or king-size bed, there is an extra divider, and it’s used in the end case. Good to KnowEach size bed has a different Cutting List and Cutting Diagram. These photos and instructions are for a queen size; included in these instructions are the variations to build full and twin sizes. Align the ends of the tops (A) and the bottom panels (A) of the side cases on sawhorses and lay out the divider locations. A framing square will help transfer the marks onto both plywood sheets to ensure proper alignment during assembly. Several plywood edges on the tops/bottoms (A) and dividers (B) will be exposed in the final project and need to be covered with a veneer edge tape (Project Diagram, Drawing 1) to create a finished look. After marking the edges that need to be covered, cut veneer tape pieces an inch longer than those edges. Use a household iron, on the cotton setting, to activate the glue, and press the veneer into position on the edges of the panels.
A piece of painter’s tape can secure the veneer until you activate the adhesive. Allow the veneer tape to cool for a few minutes, trim the edges with a utility knife, and sand the panels and edging. A sanding sponge creates a softened edge on the veneer to reduce any sharp edges. A random-orbit sander with 180-grit sandpaper smooths the plywood panels. Apply glue to a divider (B), position it against the bottom (A), and clamp in position (Project Diagram, Drawing 1). Each divider will be secured with three screws and glue. To ensure a square assembly, drill a countersunk pilot hole and drive a screw 1 inch from the front edge of the panel, and then use a square to ensure the dividers are 90 degrees to the front edge of the bottom (A); secure with the remaining two screws. Repeat for the other dividers. Glue and screw the top (A) to the case (Project Diagram, Drawing 1). Secure the side back (C) to the dividers and top/bottom (A) using screws but no glue (when finishing the case it will be easier to remove the back to access the inside of the case).
The case back attaches flush to the headboard and one end of the case; the remaining opening near the foot of the bed is covered by the end case. When the first case is complete, assemble the second side case and then build the end case using these same steps. Headboard and Mattress Support Cut the headboard panel (F), stiles (G), and rail (H) to size (Project Diagram, Cutting Diagram and Cutting List) and assemble using glue and screws (Project Diagram, Drawing 2). Cut the 2-inch-wide veneer edging and iron in place on the headboard. Trim and sand away the excess. Trim the veneer with a utility knife after the glue cools and sand the assembled headboard smooth. Cut the side rails (I) and end rail (J) to length and sand smooth (Project Diagram, Cutting Diagram and Cutting List). Cut the side supports (K) from 2 x 4s, the slats (L) from 1 x 4s, and the platform (M) from 3/4-inch-thick plywood (Project Diagram, Cutting Diagram and Cutting List). The plywood needs no edging, and the parts do not require a finish.
Good to KnowFor a twin-size bed, no slats are needed under the platform. For a king-size bed, you’ll need two platform pieces to cover the larger opening. Remove the case backs from the base cabinets and apply the stain of your choice to these parts, then stain the headboard assembly and the rails. After the stain dries, apply three coats of satin polyurethane. After each coat cures, sand the clear finish with a 320-grit sanding sponge, wipe with a tack cloth, and apply the next coat. When the final coat cures, reinstall the case backs. Apply the side supports (K) to the back of the side cases (Project Diagram, Drawing 3) -- the top edge of the 2 x 4s should be 1 1/2 inches below the top of the cases and flush with each end of the case side backs (C). For the twin-size bed, the slats will not be used; position the side supports 3/4 inch below the top edge of the case. Add the side rails (I) to the side cases. The rails should be flush on the headboard end of the cases and overhang the side and footboard end of the cases by 1/2 inch.