How to Replace a Shower Mixing Valve Fixing a faulty valve with This Old House plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey In this video, This Old House plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey fixes a faulty valve. 1. Use a utility knife to remove the protective cap from the shower-valve handle. 2. Unscrew and remove the handle. 3. Unscrew and remove the plate from the shower wall. 4. Turn the screws on the shut-off valves to the right to stop the flow of water. 5. Remove the cap from the valve by unscrewing the brass screw from each side of the valve. Pull the cap from the valve. 6. Use pliers to pull the pressure-balancing unit from the valve. 7. Flush out debris from the pipes by holding a paper plate under the valve and opening each shut-off valve for just a few seconds. 8. Press the rubber O-rings into the rear of the new pressure-balancing unit. 9. Insert the pressure-balancing unit into the valve, aligning its notch with the key inside the valve.
10. Use plumber's grease to lubricate the large O-ring on the new shower valve. 11. Insert the new valve into the wall, slip the stainless-steel mounting plate over the valve, then secure both pieces with two brass screws. 12. Open both water shut-off valves with a screwdriver. 13. Screw the sub-base to the stainless-steel mounting plate. 14. Attach the chrome cover plate to the valve by tightening its mounting nut with the chrome sleeve. Then, slide the chrome sleeve over the valve. 15. Next, fasten the handle base to the valve, tightening it with a hex-key wrench. 16. Press the handle onto the stem protruding from the handle base. Be sure to align the handle to the “off” position. Secure the handle with a single screw. 17. Snap the small index cover over the handle screw.Show All ItemsStep 1: Safety First and Then an Ounce of Prevention« PreviousNext »View All Steps Download How much should it cost to replace a bathroom tub valve? I have a one knob shower faucet in my bathtub.
It was leaking inside the wall right at the valve. I was told that to replace the valve and shower nozzle and all involved would cost $425.00 Is that reasonable? It depends on how difficult it is to get to the valve... the value costs about $75 to $100, the rest is labor. If the value is readily accessible through the back of the wall, then this is too high.. but if the plumber has to remove and replace the tile or otherwise open the tub side itself, then is not unreasonable.If the valve is accessible from the other side of the wall, consider opening the drywall yourself and when the plumber is done replace the drywall and repaint yourself.. This should save you some money, if you are comfortable with doing this. also, this is not a difficult repair to do yourself if you are reasonably handy... turn the water off, open the wall from the back side, remove the value... Buy a value with the same plumbing configuration.. (Take the old valve to the store and check the configuration of the new value against the old.)
Re-Install the valve Repair the hole in the wall. The prior comment suggested doing it yourself - that really applies only if it is connected to all pipes with threaded connections - many valves are soldered in, and shower valves are one of the toughest soldering jobs because of the large mass of metal in the valve, to do it without distorting the valve or damaging it.if threaded, be sure to get teflon plumbers tape to seal the threads, and check out a Youtube video on how to apply plumbers tape to the male threads to prevent leakage.On your $ question - $425 seems steep, IF accessible from the back of the wall. If have to go through the valve hole in the surround or tile, then maybe in the ballpark, though still high unless you are in a big city like NY or Chicago or Boston - is quite a tricky maneuvering exercise from the front - commonly involves pulling it out by cutting the pipe from the floor below, soldering the new one, and putting the pipe back up from below into place, then soldering the top connection.
My landlord just said it cost 600 dollars do just this and wants me to pay half! Answered 2 years ago i just replaced a shower valve for a customer. I had to tear out sheetrock from behind the shower valve. They had a cheepo depot valve with thread fittings and conveniently ran copper with water hammer arrestors and teed off with GALVANIZED which was clogged to the size of a coffee straw. I cut out all threaded fittings and soldered wirsbo pex connectors directly to the copper. The homeowner picked out a Delta faucet with adjustable pressure and temperature. The valve and trim package was $240 and comes with a lifetime warranty. Homeowner was responsible for patchwork and gave them option to call a few people I use. Total bill was $390. Because of the difficulty involved, $425 is a fair minimum for parts and labor (depending on model). The person who said " this is not a difficult repair to do yourself" obviously underestimates his skills and assumes every one possesses similar tallent.
Most older homes have souldered plumbing, so unless you have sufficient souldering skills I recomend leaving it to the pro's (including high quality Handy men)No body mentions anchoring the fixture body and pipes which can be difficult and time consuming. Every replacment is different and (in my opinion) requires an on site evaluation with consideration given to make and model before offering a price.My services are turn key, no need to call for Dry wall repair, Painters or Tile repair person, I do it all with quality. I love my job Again a lot depends on what kind of plumbing you have and what kind of new valve is going in and how hard it is to get to keep in mind unless you just want a newer model 9 times out of ten you can fix the valve by repacking it for much less then the cost of replacing it most contractors want you to replace it because they know they will make more for that Answered 9 months ago Hi my name is Matt and I am a plumber people get us confused with handy men a lot the prices are a lot difrenet, but keep in mind are prices are the way they are for the following reasons.