This easy faucet replacement project will take close to one hour and cost between $60 and $160. There are three main faucet types available today: single hole, 4” triple hole, and 8” triple hole. In the single-hole faucet, the center control typically not only serves as the spout but the mixing valve as well. In the triple-holes faucets, the center device is usually just the spout with the mixing valves 4” or 8” from the center on each side respectively. Depending on your existing situation, the faucet may be installed to the countertop or the sink, so if you are replacing one or the other, you have the option to change faucet type. If not, purchase a new faucet to match the type you already have. The one exception would be that single-hole faucets can typically be used in a 4” triple-hole sink or countertop if they come with a blank base plate to cover the additional holes. One added benefit of separate mixing valves is that most manufacturers use one valve with many different trims.
This will let you change the style in future with less waste and work. In our case, there was a 4” three-hole faucet installed to an integral sink cultured-marble top. Because we were also replacing the countertop and sink, we decided to go to a widespread 8” triple-hole faucet to match the new larger sink. Once you have the new faucet picked out, assemble all the parts you need, and double check so you can complete this at one time and without multiple trips to the hardware store. Be sure to specifically check the fittings on the end of the faucet versus your existing water line extensions. Since it is an opportune time to replace the flexible lines, choose a set with an auto leak shut off. A small valve in the base of the line detects excess water flow and shuts off preventing further damage and flooding. If you are also replacing the sink drain, be sure to specifically check your P-trap setup in case any new o-rings or extensions are needed. Start by shutting off the wall valves and turning on the faucet to drain down residual pressure.
With a bucket handy, use an adjustable wrench to loosen and remove the flexible extension from the faucet. Drain the remaining water into the bucket. Next, remove the flexible line from the shutoff valve. Under the sink, there are typically nuts and washers securing the faucet. Remove any hardware in this area including the clamp bolt from the drain rod extension. Lift the faucet out from the top. It may need some gentle persuasion from years of corrosion or a sticky base gasket. Faucets can vary greatly among manufacturers, so consult your installation manual. The steps seen here will be generally applicable but might need modification for your particular setup. I find it helpful to mock assemble the part first to better visual what you will likely be feeling and not seeing when laying in a dark cabinet. Generally, from the top down there will be the spout, a gasket or plumber's putty, the sink or countertop, a large washer or saddle, and a mounting nut. In this case plumber's putty is called for instead of a gasket.
If you've never worked with plumber's putty before, imagine gray modeling clay. To use, take a small bit in the palm of your hand, and roll it back and forth until you form a 1/4” diameter rope. This putty is applied around the new spout base to prevent water splash from running into the cabinet. Install the center spout, and tighten the mounting nut from below with an adjustable wrench. If you are using a single-hole faucet, you will skip the next steps. Assemble the hot and cold mixing valves. In this case, a large nut and washer tightens the valve from below while a large washer and C-clip holds the valve at the top. Apply plumber's putty to the sculpted bottom side of the top washer. Install the C-clip, and tighten the nut from below. Just as a reminder, the hot and cold valves are left and right respectively. For this faucet, the top trims are installed by threading onto the mixing valve. Make sure the handle is oriented parallel to the wall in the OFF position prior to threading the trim.
Next, hook up the water lines from below. Luckily, this faucet features easy snap-end fittings. If yours uses threaded NPT fittings, be sure to use plumber's tape on any connections not utilizing a rubber or gasket seal. Install the new water line extensions to the shut off and mixing valves. Finally, reinstall the drain rod to the extension, and tighten the clamp bolt. Double check all your fittings, and slowly turn ON the shut off valves one at a time. Look for leaks, and if all is well, test and flush the new faucet for two minutes. While faucets tend to last a long time, they don't always age well in the design department. Replacing your bathroom faucets can be a quick and rewarding project. Plus, if you choose ones with separate mixing valves and trims, you can more easily update the faucet in the future with less work and waste.Water dripping from above is never a good sign. A damp spot -- or worse, a continuous drip from the ceiling overhead -- signals trouble. If you have a second-story bathroom, the problem could be in a water supply line or in one of the fixture drains.
Fixing the leak could be as simple as replacing an under-sink trap or as complicated as cutting out a portion of the ceiling to replace drainpipe fittings. Finding the leak can be the toughest part of the task. Types of Plumbing Leaks If the leak appears as a damp spot that alternately dries and reoccurs on the ceiling above, it's most likely in a drain line. If the ceiling has a constant wet spot, or if it drips regularly, the problem is most likely in a pressurized water supply line. Narrow It Down Check the easiest-to-access spots first. This includes the water supply lines to the sink and to the commode, the sink trap and the wax ring beneath the commode. In the vast majority of cases, the leak will be at a plumbing connection where the water supply lines attach or at connector joints in the drainpipes. For water supply leaks, run your fingers over the lines to find out which one is damp. For trap leaks, turn on the water in the sink while checking the drain trap beneath for drips.
Evidence of a leaking wax toilet ring might not show up on the bathroom floor, but this is a cheap fix, and if you can’t easily find the leak elsewhere, pull the commode and replace the ring. Once you remove the commode, you’ll see evidence of dampness around the toilet flange if the wax ring was leaking. Hidden Leaks A shower should have a removable access panel, sometimes located in the room behind the shower wall, but tub drains, shower drains and the main drainpipe to which all fixture drains attach are often accessible only from beneath. If you’ve eliminated all other causes of leaks, the next step is to cut out a small access hole in the ceiling below. Cut out the section of ceiling drywall where you see the evidence of the leak. If a drainpipe connection is directly above, you’re in luck. Unfortunately, water can travel down a sloping drainpipe and then drip at a low point. If the leak is not right above the wet spot, you might have to cut out more of the ceiling drywall, following the drainpipe upward, until you find the leaking connection.
Fixing Water Supply Leaks In some cases, the fitting between the water supply line and the fixture is loose and you can try tightening it. Sometimes, a washer in the fitting is worn out and you can remove the old washer and put a new one in to stop the leak. But, if that doesn’t fix the problem, the next step is to replace the entire fitting. Turn off the water at the main shutoff, remove the fitting and take it to the hardware store to find a matching replacement. Different types of lines require different methods of installation, so make sure you have the appropriate supplies before installing the new fitting. Fixing Drainpipe Leaks Most of today’s drainpipes are white PVC (polyvinyl chloride) or black ABS (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene). Some sink traps are chrome or brass, however, and it’s important to purchase replacement parts of the same type, the same configuration and dimension. Remove the old fittings and take them to the hardware store for comparison. Removing and replacing the fittings depends on the type of pipes.