A bathtub leak can cause flooding and water damage inside your home. To repair a leaking bathtub, here is what you should do. Leaks can occur in at least 5 main areas in your bathtub, namely the faucet, the grout, the bathtub body, the overflow pipe, and the drain. A dripping faucet and leaking grout are easy to spot, but leaks in other areas of the tub can be challenging to find. To determine if the body of your tub has leaks, wipe the outside of the tub dry, wrap it with old newspaper, then fill the tub with water. You should be able to spot the leaks by observing which areas of the newspaper covered surface of the tub gets wet fast. If your faucet grout and tub are not leaking, the problem maybe in your pipe or drain. To find the leak, carefully evaluate your piping and drainage system. If the problem is in your tub faucet, you need to shut off the water supply to your bathroom first before you repair the leak. Make sure that both the hot and cold water supply your tub has been cut off before you attempt to remove the faucet.
After shutting off the water supply, remove the plastic cap located on the center of the faucet handle, then use a screwdriver remove the screw that is holding the handle in place. Pull the handle of the faucet, then use a wrench to detach the packing nut that locks the stem of the faucet in place. Some trapped water inside the faucet may gush out at this point. After dismantling the faucet, install new gaskets inside it and replace the stem washers before you re-install the faucet on your tub. Once the faucet is back in its place, turn on the water supply. Small leaks in the faucet grout and tub can be repaired using heavy duty sealant. To repair the grout, clean the leaking area and determine the extent of the problem. If the crack on the grout is minor, you may apply sealant on it to stop the leak. To do so, shut off the water supply to your tub and let the grout dry up completely before you attempt to apply sealant on it. After applying the sealant, wait for at least 3 hours before you turn the water supply back on to give the sealant time to dry up completely.
For small leaks on the body of your tub, you may use heavy duty waterproof sealant to stop the leak. To do this, clean the tub thoroughly, then mark the areas that need repairs. Apply an ample amount of sealant on the cracks and let it dry for at least 3 hours. Once the sealant is completely dry, use fine grip sand paper to remove the extra sealant and smooth out the surface of the tub. Regrouting is the process of removing the old, non-sanded grout and installing new grout and caulk in an installation. (In most cases, it is not recommended for sanded grout.) Grout Repair / Tile Repair The Grout Doctor ® has the cure for this ugly, cracked, and stained floor grout. Cracked grout in a floor is more than unsightly. If not treated, it can cause damage to the floor's underlayment and possibly create the need for costly replacement of the entire floor. Does your grout do this? Spills on your grout should bead and not be absorbed into the grout. If spills do not bead, your grout needs to be sealed.
After thoroughly cleaning your grout, we apply Grout DoctorOur premium Grout Doctor Sealer will protect your grout by repelling and minimizing discoloration from dirt, acids, and grime. A sealer does not make grout stain proof. It does inhibit penetration of substances that may discolor the grout. The best time to have your grout sealed is after one of our professional services or if your tiled area is brand new. Over time, harsh cleaners can destroy the sealant making it necessary to re-apply periodically. Does your grout still look dirty and show traffic patterns even after scrubbing? has the cure for that! After thoroughly cleaning your grout, we can apply a pigmented sealer. This process is called grout recoloring. With recoloring you can change the color of your grout to a lighter or darker color or match the original color. Grout Recoloring will give new life to your existing tile and grout! Improperly installed products, poor ventilation, and improper cleaning and maintenance are the primary causes of unsightly mold in bathroom areas.
Routinely replacing the caulking can: The caulk used in your bathroom and/or kitchen protects the wall behind it and the sub-floor below it from water damage. It is a good practice to periodically replace old caulk and recaulk joints between the tiles and your tub, shower, sink, or any place two planes of tile or two different construction products come together. Recaulking should be added to your annual or semi-annual bathroom maintenance checklist. Another good reason to recaulk is to remove the black mold that sometimes grows in and behind the caulking. Properly installed caulk can be damaged by improperly scrubbing it or incorrectly using a squeegee. Damaged caulk allows moisture to have an open path to substructures and promotes the growth of mold. After cleaning and recaulking. Find a Grout Doctor near You EnduroShield® is a revolutionary, invisible coating* that repels water, soap scum, and grime, allowing for easier cleaning, less often. EnduroShield® Stainless Steel coating* is a non-stick, protective coating that seals the surface, making cleaning and maintenance easier.
EnduroShield is completely invisible and does not change or alter the appearance of the surface. EnduroShield provides both hydrophobic and oleo phobic protection, reducing both corrosion and tea staining that often forms in coastal environments. The Grout Doctor ® Offers these Additional Services: Services marked with * are not available at all locations, check with your local Grout Doctor. Shower Door Removal * Minor Wall Repairs * Application of EnduroShield® Permanent Protective Coatings * Fiberglass/Plastic Inlay Installation * Porcelain/Fiberglass Chip Repair * Clean, Seal, or Refinish Saltillo Tile and Pavers * Natural Stone Cleaning & Sealing Natural Stone Restoration and Polishing *How to Remove and Apply Caulks and Sealants Smoothly Viewing in Adhesives > General > Workshop The Secret to Getting Smooth Joints on Countertops, Bathtubs and More Currently, BeadTammer, the product shown in the video is unavailable.
This is a replacement product ~ Ron CAULK-EZ EZ-4 Caulk Spray Can with Nozzle, Transparent, 2.5 oz For my money, the best way to remove old caulk is by cutting it away with a sharp utility knife. You'll want to make two cuts — one, horizontal and one, vertical. This way you can simply lift out much of the old material in a single piece.Next, use a razor blade-style scraper to remove any portion of the old bead still clinging to the surface. This foam sealant remover does a great job of loosening anything that's still left. Just brush it on and wait a few minutes. It works by actually breaking down the bond between the caulk and the surface below. For a final cleaning, a non-metallic abrasive pad like this, does a good job — followed by a wipe with a clean cloth or a paper towel. Pour some household bleach into a plastic or glass container and brush it into the joint to kill any lingering mildew or mold spores. Let the surface dry thoroughly. Well, we've done a good job of getting the old caulk out and cleaning and preparing the surface.
Applying the New Sealant Now it's time to put the new caulk in. There are four important steps to getting a professional job. Step one, use the right material.Silicone is my choice for most kitchen and bathroom jobs. This one contains a mold and mildew inhibitor. Cut the tape or tip of the cartridge, just large enough to fill the joint. Using a sharp utility knife, slice on an angle along one of the premarked lines. Many caulking guns have a built-in piercing tool for puncturing the seal at the base of the nozzle. Or you might just try this nifty tip cutter. It adjusts to three different bead sizes. Just slip it over the end of the nozzle and press. The piercing tool folds out from the side of the case. Place the tip of the nozzle into the corner and squeeze the trigger slowly and evenly. Pull the caulking gun toward you and lay down a uniform bead, just large enough to fill the joint. Now the fourth and final step to getting a really professional caulking joint is a process called tooling.