The pressure sensor on the rims is a little electronic box INSIDE of the rim (or sometimes on the valve) that senses the tire pressure. If you had your tires worked on, they could have knocked it, and it might be malfunctioning. On Toyota applications, the reset procedure is fairly straightforward. Turn the key on (engine off), then press and hold the RESET button until the flashing TPMS warning light goes off. Or, if it is not flashing, hold the RESET button until the light flashes three times. Turn the key off. But the relearn procedure is not complete until the vehicle is driven at 19 mph or faster for at least an hour. During this time, the TPMS system may not be able to detect a low tire, so make sure all the tires have been inflated to the correct pressure before the vehicle leaves. The sensor looks like this: I have 2007 RAV4 and I was puzzled by the same issue- it turned out that the SPARE tire is also connected! So, when I filled up my spare, the light went away.
Not sure where the spare tire is located on 2004 model, but i would definitely check that. For those of you who are wondering where the reset button for the TPM system is on a 2013 RAV4, it took several days and finally a trip to the dealership who were at a loss also for about an hour since the manual was completely wrong. It is located inline with the center of the steering column under the dash in about 2 inches in a little pocket. The sensors contain batteries that are good for 3-5 years, depending on the units used. This is a nearly universal design element - all makes and models. Take it to a reputable tire shop to have the batteries replaced. I have been having this humming noise coming from the front right corner of my car I thought maybe the tire was bad or a bad Bearing now my low tire pressure light has come on and my tire pressure is fine what do you think this is? Could the low pressure censor be picking up resistance from a bad bearing and that is making the humming sound ?
It is a 2001 Buick century Did you try retraining the system? Make sure all your tires are at the correct pressure. Turn the ignition ON (do not start engine). Put the handbrake ON. Hold the RESET button until the light flashes 3 times. The retrain procedure is not complete until the vehicle is driver over 19mph or faster for an hour. During this time, the TMPS system may not be able to detect a low tire, so make sure all tires are at the correct pressure before you start. I have a 2007 Rav4, the TPMS warning light is on all the time. It blinks for a minute and then stay steady. I'm told this means there is an issue with the system. does anybody know where the reset button is on this vehicle. I've spent to much time looking under the dash but don't see anything. Can this light be turned off electronicly? The system is more of a nuscience then it is helpful My right rear wheel is stuck or fused to the drum. I can get the lugnuts off, but no luck getting the wheel off.
I took it to a tire place and they couldn't remove it either, and said I would probably be forced to get someone to take a torch to it. Any other options besides this? Is it possible to take the axle off without removing the wheel? The tire store tried taking the lugnuts off and driving around/over curbs to loosen it, but no dice. I had a similar problem with my car a while back. The trick I used was as follows. Loosen the nuts right off, but don't remove them (leaving three or four threads on), so they restrain the wheel when it comes free. Jack the car up and support it solidly on stands - I also put the spare wheel under the sill on the side I am working on. Take a 2-3lb club hammer, and gently tap around the rim, working in a semi-random criss-cross fashion, e.g 12 o'clock, 7, 3, 10, 5, etc. If you have enough room, do so from the back as well. This should eventually break the corrosion seal that is holding the wheel on - be careful as it might shift suddenly (hence leaving the nuts on).
Once off, you should be able to see signs of where it was sticking, such as fresh orangey rust on the hub. Clean these areas up with a bit of sandpaper so the wheel is easier to refit. Before refitting the wheel use a bit of copper grease on the mating surfaces to prevent the problem from re-occuring, but do not put any on the studs/nuts or anywhere near the brakes! That sounds like a job for a torch to heat up the drum and see if you can get it to loosen up. Maybe a piece of wood against the back side of tire/wheel and hitting it with sledge hammer? Of course, do this while taking proper safety measures, jack stands, and restraints. Be very careful and prepare for that moment of the wheel breaking free and the truck itself moving. Had a similar problem on an '07 Toyota Tundra, while changing a tire yesterday. Solution we used was to just beat the crap out of it with a rubber mallet, with the wheel in the air after the nuts were removed. And by "beat the crap out of it", I mean exactly that - a "gentle tapping" won't do.
You could probably try spraying some PB blaster around where the wheel meets the drum. If you come back every hour (three to four applications should do the trick) to respray the area I bet you that stuff will probably works its way through whatever is keeping it seized on...more than likely rust. Just make sure to let it sit overnight! I sometimes will loosen the lug nuts slightly then drive in figure 8's a few times. If that doesn't work I jack it up and beat on the tires with a sledge hammer from behind. Happens on a fairly regular basis to vehicles here in the rust belt. When the "loosen lugnuts and drive" and "sledgehammer" methods fail I've had to resort to securing the vehicle on jackstands (with tires also under the sill in case it comes off the stands), climbing under it and kicking like a fiend until the tire comes off. That hasn't failed me yet. You can try putting antiseize on the surfaces that are getting stuck, but I've found that to not help much on my cars.
Even changing tires just a month later, the anti-seize has gotten washed out. Appears that the mating surfaces have enough gap to let water in, which is probably why they seize all the time... Heat it with a blow torch, it will expand slightly and dislodge it. I had the same problem with a brake disc and heating it made it come off very easily. Jack up the car, apply silicone. Take the spare and hit it violently on the edge of tire. It will pop off in most cases. Some things I've tried in the past: Take a 10 pound sledge to a stuck rim (if there is no intention of keeping the rim) Go for a drive over the railroad tracks a few times with loosened lug nuts Soak it in liquid wrench, wd40, or something my garage uses called "nutbuster" Do donuts into curbs I had this problem with the rear wheels of my BMW and here's what I did. I have aluminum wheels so I needed to be careful. I took a 1 foot piece of cedar (soft wood) 2x4 and a sledge hammer. Using some force, I hit the piece of wood with the hammer around the outside perimeter of the wheel.