The ideal ranges are: If TA is low, add Alkalinity Increaser until a TA reading near the upper end of the appropriate PPM acceptable range is reached. If TA is high, add pH Decrease until a reading near the upper end of the appropriate PPM acceptable range is attained. Notes: TA which is on the high side is less of a problem than TA which is bit too low. Make sure to allow time for the adjusting chemicals to equilibrate in the spa water before taking measurements. In the case of stubbornly high pH/TA which is not responsive to pH Decrease, try Acid Magic. Adjusting pH: The ideal range is 7.2 - 7.6 per diagram above (see pH Range) Now check for proper pH level. Adjusting TA will very often bring pH into line. If below 7.2, add more Alkalinity Increaser until a reading of about 7.4 is reached. pH Increase, which is stronger, may also be used, especially if both pH and TA are very low, but keep in mind that both pH Increase and Alkalinity Increaser will also raise TA, so if TA is already high, you should use Easy pH, which will significantly raise only the pH.
If pH is above 7.8, add pH Decrease until a reading of about 7.6 is reached. Once pH adjustments have been made, you can lock pH into perfect balance by adding Control the pH*. Often no need for further adjustments until the next water change! (*Not compatible with Cleanwater BlueTM). Remember: pH which is a little on the high side is much less of a problem than pH which is too low (acidic). Low pH causes harmful corrosion; high pH can contribute to scale formation, but that is much less of a problem than corrosion. Properly balanced water will also have a better feel on the skin and allow your sanitizer to perform.Hot Tub & Spa Water Chemistry WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO TEST YOUR SPA WATER? • After spa is full • After adding make-up water (filter for at least 1 hour to mix the old water with the new water) • After spa water has circulated for at least 1 hour • After spa water has heated • Before adding water chemistry products • Before adding a shock treatment
• When chlorine or bromine level is 5 ppm or lower • After taking sample from about 18 inches below water surface and away from cartridge area • As soon as it is removed from your spa—water chemistry begins to deteriorate immediately! Alkalinity keeps your pH in range and is the KEY pool or spa water is not necessarily sanitized or balanced. the water in your toilet bowl is clear, but not sanitized or balanced! Balanced water prolongs the life of your pool and spa equipment andYour family’s health depends on balanced ARE YOU HAVING A HARD TIME CLEARING YOUR SPA WATER? majority of water chemistry problems are related to poor filtration, poor circulation or an inadequate shock treatment schedule. sure your cartridge is clean. If your cartridge is not clean, you can add water chemistry products until the cows come home and your spa water still will not clear. Periodically rinse off your cartridge with a garden hose about once every couple of weeks (depending upon spa
Chemically clean your cartridge about once per month (dependingYour cartridge should be submerged and soaked for a minimum of 8 hours but preferably 24 hours. cartridge is NOT the same as chemically cleaning your cartridge. extra cartridges on hand so there is always a clean cartridge available and there is no ‘down time’ during the cleaning process. steps for chemically cleaning your cartridge: Rinse cartridge with garden hose. Submerge cartridge in cleaning solution (read product directions for correct mixture ratio of cleaner versus water). Soak for 8-24 hours. important as the cleaning solution is acidic in nature and will alter your spa water chemistry. Thoroughly dry cartridge before use because a dry cartridge filters better than a wet one. HOW OFTEN SHOULD YOUR SPA BE DRAINED? spa water gets ‘old’, the water chemistry becomes hard to manage andDepending upon spa usage, you need to empty and refill your spa every two to four months.
Use this equation to determine how often your spa should be drained: = Number of days Sani-Spa/Shock & Swim/Brominating Concentrate Usage * Spa Frog System runs at 1-2 ppm bromine. Foam Causes & Solutions Only use a defoamer as a temporary solution to excessive foaming. Low calcium hardness level Residue of laundry detergentHomeInfo on Hot Tubs About our Hot Tubs Why Western Red Cedar The Zen of Snorkel Hot Tubs 16 Ways You Can Benefit The Snorkel® and Scuba® Stoves Wood-Fired Hot Tubbing Basics Gas & Electric Heated Hot Tubs Choosing Gas or Electric Wood-fired Hot Tub Accessories Gas & Electric Hot Tubs Tub, Stove & Equipment Separates Gas & Electric Tub Accessories Designing your Hot Tub Snorkel in the Media General Accessories for All Snorkel Hot Tubs Keeping Your Hot Tub Squeaky Clean Chlorine has been in use for decades as the gold standard for keeping pool and hot tub water free from bacteria and other bugs.
It is the most effective single agent available, but many people, especially our wood-fired owners, look for alternative sanitizers that don't require chlorine. Many wood-fired tubbers simply drain the water after every second or third use and lightly scrub the tub with a dilute solution of household bleach and water and then refill. Other non-halogen (chlorine/bromine) options for woodfired tubbers are our spa pad or Instant Ions (copper, silver and zinc ions in solution). Ahh Natural Spa Pad Instant Copper Ions (copper, silver & zinc) 1 Pint Instant Copper Ions (copper, silver & zinc) 1 Qt Spa Defoamer 1 qt Filter Flosser (attach to garden hose for easy effective filter cleaning) Stair Kit (3' tall tubs) Stair Kit (4' tall tubs) Box Step – 15" (15” alone OK for 3’ tubs) Box Step – 30" (15” AND 30” needed for 4’ tubs) Hot Tub Steps (3' tall tubs) Bench – 5' (set of 3) Bench – 6' (set of 3) Bench – 7' (set of 3)