French doors originated as windows that went all the way to the floor in 17th century French homes. The two primary concerns of a builder constructing door framing are safety and local building code requirements. Standard framing for a set of French doors varies only in its framed width compared with standard door framing. The wall frame is constructed from vertical stud sections and a horizontal header, with small cripple studs above the header attached to the double top plate, depending on the ceiling and door height. After framing the rough opening, the door jamb attaches inside the opening to support the doors hinged to it. For exterior walls, a bottom horizontal threshold is added. Jack and King Studs The framed passageway begins with a rough opening large enough, with a bit of maneuvering room to accept the door jamb, which often includes prehung doors. The larger openings allow for installation and adjustment and provide some wiggle room for compensating for a rough opening that isn't perfectly square.
The vertical sides consist of two two-by-four studs on either side of the opening for standard framed walls. In walls with larger studs, use the same studs as the walls for the rough opening. These studs, known as king and jack studs perform different functions. The king stud runs from the base plate at the bottom of the wall, to the underside of the double top plate. The jack stud, sits against the inside of the king stud facing the opening -- and runs from the base plate to the bottom of the header. The Wall Frame Header The horizontal support that spans the rough opening at the top of the door is called the header. A typical header can be a four-by-eight or four-by-ten inch beam for two-by-four walls. But many builders make headers by using boards faced by dimensional boards to match the thickness of the wall. For example, a header can be built with two two-by-eight or two-by-ten boards fastened together in a two-by-four framed wall. The header thickness and height is the only real difference between standard and French-door framing.
The header supports the framing above the opening, and is also used for windows or any opening that spans a distance in a framed wall. Above the header, small perpendicular cripple studs are toe-nailed to the doubled top plate. The Door Jamb Framing The jamb frame surrounding the doors themselves consist of side jambs and a top, or head, jamb across the top. Jamb material typically is 3/4 to 1 1/4 inches thick. For two-by-four walls, the jambs are about 4 1/2 inches wide; for two-by-six walls, they're about 6 1/2 inches wide. These widths account for 1/2-inch-thick drywall or sheathing on each side of the wall frame. Joints in jamb construction are nailed and glued and may be reinforced with screws. One other feature of French door construction is the hardware slide latch in the center of the head jamb and one in the threshold to keep the door secure. One door can be latched shut, while the other can be opened with a standard door handle. The threshold, found on exterior doors, is constructed of metal and fastened to the jambs with screws.
Installation Process Installation of French doors is similar to standard passage doors. The jamb with or without doors attached, is positioned in the opening. The frame is leveled, squared and checked for plumb. Shims are wedged between the jamb and the wall frame to temporarily secure the door or align for plumb, and then nails or screws are driven through the jamb into the studs and header to permanently secure the door. Many builders leave the shims in place, securing fasteners through them then cutting the shims flush with the wall. References Home Construction Improvement: Rough OpeningsFine Homebuilding: Frame a Door Rough Opening Photo Credits Shelly Perry/iStock/Getty Images Suggest a CorrectionHome & GardenHome ImprovementDoorsHow to Install Pocket Doors How to Install Pocket Doors A pocket door slides into a metal and wood cage that is installed as the walls are framed. In some older homes, a sliding pocket door was used to create privacy and separate a living room from a parlor or dining room.
The door disappeared into the wall when it wasn’t being used, but was convenient to pull out when needed. The clever design of a pocket door continues to be a space-saving solution in today’s homes, especially in a small bathroom where a hinged door swing takes up too much floor place. The framing hardware within the cavity of the wall allows the door to slide in and out of the wall, a solution in a room where floor or wall space is at a premium. A pocket door is also a good choice for a bathroom for someone who uses a wheelchair or walker because it’s easy to open and close. Although the hardware can work on any type of door — solid or hollow core or flat or paneled — it’s a good idea to buy a pocket door hardware system that includes the door. For a bathroom, consider a door with a mirror on one or both sides, which is a convenient and useful choice. You’ll find a pocket door frame hardware system for doors 11/8 inches to 13/4inches thick by 6 feet 8 inches high.
The hardware is an improvement over the old-fashioned door in the wall because it can’t stick or come off its track. The system is made of wheel assemblies that roll in boxed tracks that prevent the doors from derailing, floor anchors that maintain proper distance between the jamb studs, and door glides that center the door as it glides into the open position. Pocket door locks, available in several styles and finishes, are designed with a recessed handle that folds flat against the edge of the door when it is in the recess. Before you begin, read the directions for the pocket door kit you’re installing to get an overview of the process and what’s involved. All pocket door systems are installed in basically the same way, but the manufacturer’s directions should give you the best advice for installing that particular product. Construct the rough opening or modify the existing wall to fit the rough opening dimensions for the door jamb supplied by the manufacturer of the hardware.
Make sure that all studs are plumb (perfectly vertical) and the header is level. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions and cut the pocket door header-and-track assembly to length with a hacksaw. Install the header-and-track assembly on the top jamb with the fasteners and brackets supplied with the door. Nail the end plate to the wall studs. Check that the track is level so that the door rolls easily. Attach the split jamb stiffeners to the floor bracket and then plumb them with a level and nail the brackets to the floor. Nail the split jamb to the header. Repeat for the second pair of stiffeners, installing them in the middle of the pocket. Paint or stain all edges and faces of the door to prevent it from warping. Install hanging hardware on the top edge of the door according to the manufacturer’s directions. Slide the wheel hangers into the track and hang the door on the two hangers. Adjust the hangers until the door is plumb. You can also install the door handle/lock at this point.
Remove the door and then install drywall over the door pocket, using construction adhesive and 1-inch drywall screws. Finish the joints with drywall tape and several coats of drywall compound. Reinstall the door and then install the door guides on the inside and outside of the door at the mouth of the pocket. The guides, which are adjustable, should center the door in the opening and allow just enough clearance for the door to slide smoothly. Nail the two-piece side and head jambs on either side of the door so it is flush with the finished wall surface. Use screws to install one side of the head jamb so you can remove the door in the event of a problem. Install a full-width strike jamb on the opposite side. Drill a hole and chisel a shallow mortise in that jamb for the strike plate, which the door latch engages. Install door casing, nailing it to the jamb and to pocket door studs. Use 6d finish nails to install the top and strike jamb casing.