Grip HangerHanger HooksHangersHook Lrg6 CardsCard 6Grip 20Grip SaveHook HoldsForwardLUMB-R-GRIP HANGER HOOK - LRG-21240 (Pack of 6) by LUMB-R-GRIP. Lumb-r-grip Hanger Hook Holds Up To 200 Lbs. Installs Without Tools - A Twist Of The Wrist & Its Done For Use On Exposed Timber (e.g., 2x4) Maximize Storage Space In Garage, Basement, Shed, Etc. Made Of Durable Steel, Coated & Dipped For Long Life Removable, Reusable; Use Indoors Or Out Two Hooks Per Card 6 Cards Per Clip Strip Price is indicated for bulk discounted quantity of 6 unit(s) per case.. It’s a big, scary looking thing but once I explain it, it’ll be about as scary as a chocolate covered cotton ball. Which is actually incredibly scary. You’d think it was a nice round chocolate you were biting into but inside would be horrid squinchy cotton. Like running fingernails down a chalkboard but for your teeth. So, we’ve all been there I’m sure … hung a nice full sized cow on our wall only to have it fall down in the middle of the night, scaring the farts right out of the cat.
But it doesn’t have to. For some reason people are under the impression that hanging things on the wall is frightening. I think it’s the whole things falling off of the wall scenario we’ve all lived through. But that’s only because you’re using the wrong drywall anchors. I’ve used them too. Those plastic coloured anchors that you hammer into the drywall. You keep screwing and screwing your screw into it and it just keeps spinning and spinning because it isn’t actually grabbing onto anything. But you hang something off of it anyways even if it doesn’t seem like it’s going to work because you paid for it and installed it and can’t think of any other way to do it. Then your cow falls down. It’s because those plastic anchors aren’t really meant for drywall. They’re usually meant for solid walls like concrete. They *can* in certain circumstances be used for drywall but you’re taking your chances. Enter the hollow wall anchor. In this case the classic “Molly Bolt”.
THESE are the only drywall (sheetrock) anchors you should use. They are the best. How do I know they’re the best? These are my favourite anchors. Yes there are others like screw in anchors and toggle bolts and a bunch of other things, but these are my favourites so that’s why I’m talking about them and telling you to use them too. When you buy a box of Hollow Wall Anchors there are 3 things you need to look for on the box: What to look for in Hollow Wall Anchors Also best to make sure you own a drill. Mark the place on your wall where you want to hang something. Using the right sized drill bit, drill your hole. DON’T go wiggling all over the place with your drill. Hold it stead and drill straight in and pull straight out. If you wiggle you’ll actually drill a larger hole. Take the Hollow Wall Anchor out of the package and hammer it straight into the wall. You don’t have to adjust it or fiddle with it or anything. Just whack it in there.
If you look back up at the first picture I showed you you’ll see that there’s tiny teeth under the flat edge of the anchor. These will grip into the outside of the drywall so make sure you hammer it in good. Now you get your screwdriver and start screwing the screw in. I know it looks like it’s already in (and it is) but what you’re doing at this moment is creating Hollow Wall Anchor magic. As you screw the screw in, a sort of flange is being pushed out at the back of the drywall. The more you turn the screw the tighter and tighter the flange gets. Just keep turning until you can feel some good resistance. It may take a while and you might get bored. Once you’ve screwed it in to the point that you feel the resistance of the flange (I’m not really sure that’s the right word to be using) against the back of the drywall you can start unscrewing the screw. I recommend doing it by hand though and not with a drill because you don’t have enough control over the drill and if you screw your Hollow Wall Anchor in too tightly you could end up squishing your drywall and ruining it.
Just do it by hand. Super exercise for your wrist anyway which will come in handy the next time you slap someone. If you’re only hanging a mirror or picture then you can just pull the screw out enough to get your wire picture hanger over it. If you’re attaching something to the wall like a bar or TV mount you might have to remove the screw entirely and then, yes, screw it back in again.Undoing the screw doesn’t do anything to the flange. It stays rock solid. That baby’s in your wall for good now.To remove it you have to just hammer it into the wall and cover it up with drywall compound. That’s scared you even more. You will now never hang anything on the wall again. You say that now, but one day you’ll be driving around the countryside, hit a cow by accident and then what? How do you think you’re going to hang it? I hope you paid attention to all of this because tomorrow I’m going to show you something you’re going to need this little Hollow Wall Technique for a DIY I’m posting about on Wednesday.
A DIY that one year ago saved my life.Foam insulation is a good filler for holes in hollow-core doors. Whether you have to fix a hole in a solid- or hollow-core door, you shouldn't have a hard time doing it. A hole in a hollow-core door is more likely to be irregular, perhaps having been caused when the door was opened against a coat hanger sticking out out from the wall. In contrast, repairing a hole in a solid door usually means covering one that has been drilled. In both cases, you can make structurally sound repairs inexpensively. Fill round holes in solid-core doors with doweling of the same diameter as the hole. Cut the doweling about 1 inch longer than the thickness of the door. Coat the doweling with carpenter's glue and tap it into the hole with a hammer until the end is flush with the surface of the door. Let the glue dry and with a handsaw cut the other end of the doweling flush with the other side of the door. Spread wood filler over both ends of the doweling, let the filler dry and sand it with 120-grit sandpaper.
Prime the patch and paint it the same color as the door. Fill irregular or large holes with epoxy wood filler. In order to support the filler, use C-clamps to hold a piece of wood to one side of the door. The wood should cover the hole and extend from one side of the door to the other so that you can clamp it. Mix enough filler with hardener to fill the hole and trowel it into the hole with a paint scraper. Don't fill the hole completely -- leave the surface slightly concave. Let the filler harden, then remove the wood you clamped to the door. Spread a coat of drywall joint compound on both sides of the patch and scrape it flat with a drywall knife. Prime and paint the patch when the joint compound dries. Clamp a piece of wood over one side of the hole if it extends through both sides of the door. Spray foam insulation into the other side of the hole and let it expand to fill the void between the the two sides of the door and bulge out from the hole. Remove the wood from the other side of the door after the foam has expanded but before it hardens.