Graco Blossom 4-in-1 Highchair - Vance 1234567891011121314151617181920212223242526272829303132333435363738394041424344454647484950 Add to Registry Add to Favorites Graco SnugRide Classic Connect 35 Infant Car Seat - 2013 Vance $169.99$Graco Pack 'n Play Playard Newborn Napper Elite - Vance$199.99$Graco Pack 'n Play Playard with Twins Bassinet - Vance$219.99$ 6 height positions and 3 recline levels help adjust baby for easy feedings Accommodate two children simultaneously when used as a booster and chair The 4-in-1 system easily converts from highchair - to infant feeding booster - to toddler booster - to youth chair AND can accommodate two children simultaneously. 6 position height adjustment helps position baby at any table. Use the Highchair and Toddler Booster or the Infant Feeding Booster and Youth Chair to accommodate two children simultaneously. 3 position adjustable footrest helps keep your child comfy. Two front over-molded wheels with two locking rear castors for better mobility on most dining floors.
Keeps your infant in a comfortable position for feeding with infant head and body support. One-hand, 3-position adjustable seat recline helps you find a comfortable feeding position for your little diner. Removable tray with dishwasher-safe, pull-out insert. Toddler Booster includes removable seat back insert that helps position your growing child at the table and can be used interchangeably with the Toddler Booster or Youth Chair. Recommended Use: Stage 1: High Chair-up to 3 years old, max weight 50 lbs. Stage 2: Infant Feeding Booster-Up to 3 years old, max weight 50 lbs. Stage 3: Toddler Booster-with removable seat back insert booster can be used when child can sit up unassisted thru 3 years old, max weight 50 lbs. Stage 4: Youth Chair-with removable seat back insert chair can be used when child can sit up unassisted thru 3 years old, max weight 80 lbs. The Blossom 4-in-1 modular seating system is designed to adjust to your growing child's seating needs and to accommodate more than one child in your growing family.
Graco Blossom 4-in-1 Highchair - Vance Glad we got it! Great Highchair for the PriceBought a second for Grandma's house! Searched everywhere for this color. It's durable, and adjustable. My baby loves it. Well worth the money... Great buy, great qualityAll kids deserve a snuggly spot to call their own. Whether it’s for lounging, movie nights or just curling up with a good book, a pint-sized bean bag chair fits the bill. And while there are many of these available in stores, wouldn’t you rather make one as unique as your child? Complicated bean bag tutorials can be intimidating with all their sections and circle-ness. But what if I told you that with two pieces of fabric, one zipper and a straight stitch you could have an adorable kids bean bag chair in 30 minutes—would you believe me? Materials: two pieces of fabric (upholstery weight fabric is preferable), one 22″ zipper, 3.5 cubic feet of bean bag filling In the following directions, all seam allowances are 5/8″.
1. Cut two fabric pieces to 45″ x 32″. The fabrics can be identical or you can choose coordinating patterns for a two-toned look. 2. Turn right sides together. On the long raw edges, use a zigzag stitch to prevent fraying. Then straight stitch the same edges. Due to the amount of abuse these seams will endure, I highly recommend using a small stitch length for durability. 3. Fold the fabric in half like a hot dog bun, matching up the sewn edges. 4. Starting from the folded side, round one end, removing approximately 6″ of material from the corner. 5. Open the fabric back up, and you should have a nice symmetrical curve on one side. Zigzag the raw edge, and again use your straight stitch to close. 6. Open the remaining unsewn edge. Keeping right sides together, fold in half the opposite way as shown below. 7. Sew your 22″ zipper into the center of this opening. I used an invisible zipper so it would be less noticeable when completed. 8. Finish your zipper installation by closing the zipper edge with a straight stitch on either side.
9. Turn the bean bag chair right side out and fill with beans! This kid-size chair takes exactly one bag of bean bag filling (3.5 cubic feet or 100 liters) to create the perfect plump. There’s really no easy way to get those static cling-crazy little pellets inside without spilling a few. My best advice is to have two people holding the zipper open and a third person to pour—oh, and have your vacuum on standby! If this chair doesn’t beckon “come, relax,” I don’t know what does! Choosing to use two different fabrics means the bean bag chair is reversible too. Just flip it, and you’re rockin’ a whole new vibe—it’s two chairs in one! Whether you make one for your own child or give it as a gift, I guarantee this kids bean bag chair will become the new favorite snuggle spot. Keep in mind that bean bag filling pellets are a choking hazard! Because the zipper is accessible, please make these only for kids who are old enough to know better than to eat them.
Editor’s Note: If you have any concerns about your child opening the zipper or you’re making for a young child, consider sewing the bag shut (knowing you will have to rip open the seam if you ever want to refill the “beans” and sew shut again). It is never safe for a child to open the zipper or attempt to climb inside.Welcome back to Upholstery Basics, where we’ll be rolling up our sleeves and completing our first project together: a wrap-around seat. Of all seating, dining room chairs get the brunt of the abuse — a little vino here, red sauce there. If you’ve been glaring at those chairs and wondering how to give them that much-needed facelift, read on, and you’ll be transforming those eyesores into jaw-droppers in no time. Read the full post on reupholstering dining chairs after the jump! Don’t forget to check out Upholstery Basics: Tool Time to learn more about the tools we’re using today. 1. Remove the seat from your chair frame by unscrewing the screws on the underside.
If your seat drops into the frame, like mine, you may be able to pop it out without unscrewing it. Make sure to mark the orientation of the seat before removing. It may seem obvious, but it is imperative that we know which side is the front when we attach the fabric later. 2. Strip all of the old fabric, padding, staples and tacks off of the seat using your pliers and staple remover. Once you’re finished, you should be left with a wooden board. This is a good point to mark any screw holes, so you can avoid them as you attach new padding and fabric. 3. Flip the board upside down on top of the foam and trace the outside edge with a permanent marker. 4. Use the carving knife to cut out the shape. Don’t worry if the edges get a little ragged looking. Just do your best to keep the blade straight up and down and not angled to one side or the other. 5. To create a slight domed shape to the seat, place a layer of cotton batting about an inch inside the edges of the board.
Add extra layers if you’d like the crown of the seat to be more exaggerated. Just remember to make each additional layer of cotton slightly smaller than the one that precedes it. 6. Attach the foam to the board by stapling through the side of the foam and down into the wood. It’s best to work in opposites as you staple, so start with the back side and then move to the front. Then staple from the right to left side. Be careful not to push the foam back as you staple. We want the hard wooden edge to be padded, so it won’t show through the fabric. 7. Dacron will smooth out all of the imperfections and be the final layer of padding before the fabric. Once the foam is secured all the way around, tightly wrap Dacron around the edge and staple to the bottom of the board. 8. Trim off the excess Dacron gathered at the corners and around the bottom. 9. Now it’s time for the fabric! If you’re working with a pattern, decide where you’d like it placed on the seat. The rule of thumb is to place the top of the pattern at the back of the seat and the bottom of the pattern at the front of the seat.
10. To get started, staple the fabric at the back of the seat, but only put the staples in halfway by lifting one side of the staple gun up at an angle. These are called sub-staples and will allow you to pull them out very easily should you need to make adjustments. Once you’ve stapled the back, move on to the front. Then sub-staple the right and left sides. 11. Make a pleat in every corner by pulling the fabric from the sides around to the front and back. Fold under enough of the excess fabric to make the edges of the folds flush with the corners. Feel free to cut out bulky excess if you’re having trouble getting it all folded under the pleats, and use your regulator to get the fabric neatly tucked in. 12. Once you’re happy with where your fabric is placed, take out your sub-staples a few inches at a time and replace them with permanent staples that go in all the way. These will need to be closer together to make sure all the fabric is held down tightly. Keep a close eye on the edge as you go.
The more consistent you are with the tightness of your pull, the smoother the fabric will look. Another tip: Pull with your palm instead of your fingertips to avoid puckers and dimples. 13. It’s looking like a finished seat now! After you’ve cut off the excess fabric, permanently staple the dustcover to the front side of the seat. 14. Then add a strip of cardboard tack on top for reinforcement. 15. Fold the dustcover over the tack strip toward the back of the seat. This is called a blind tack. Fold under the raw edge and staple to the back of the seat. Once you have the back secured, fold under the sides and staple. 16. If you have a seat that screws onto your chair frame, clear any holes of padding, fabric or dustcover and attach it to the chair. Use your blower attachment to dust off your chair, and you’re finished! If you haven’t seen it already, check out Grace’s inspired wrap-around chair on the Design*Sponge Book Trailer. Even the smallest project can make the biggest difference.