Show All ItemsWe purchased a house in 2011. When we moved in, the front door wouldn't open all the way; it drug the floor at about 70 degrees from full open. Enough to squeeze by it, and you could force it all the way open, but it was rubbing the floor pretty good. I figured this was an easy fix and didn't pay too much attention to it. A few weeks after living there, I realized that the reason the door was dragging was because the door was not plumb. The top of the jamb was leaning into the house, so as you opened the door, the knob side of the door swung downward as well. I devoted some time to remedy that situation and quickly realized my next hurdle. Now that the door was plumb and would swing all the way open, I also realized that the bottom seal/weatherstripping was missing from the door. The "new" hardwood floors (installed prior to purchase) were great, but the person that installed them failed to realize that the thickness of the flooring would impede the ability of the entry door to seal properly.
Low and behold, the reason is because the threshold is lower than the floor height. So for two very cold winters we have had a large gap under our front door. We plug it with draft stoppers, towels, etc., but it still lets in a ton of cold air. I decided that this winter would be different so I started researching my options. In most cases, it's easier to raise the header and keep a standard door size, but the soffits on the front of my house are directly above the door frame, so I have ZERO room to go upward. I need a door that is approx. 1 1/2" shorter than the standard height and I can build up my rough opening from the bottom. I priced doors from everywhere in town, and they are all special order ranging from $450-$700 for a basic, 6 panel, steel clad door. Keep in mind that a basic, 6 panel, steel clad door can be purchased at any home improvement store for just over $100. So, we're looking at $300+ to cut 1 1/2" inches off??? After researching off and on for a while, I decided to tackle the project.
Follow along if you're still interested.Step 1: Gather tools and suppliesYou'll need a variety of tools to complete this task exactly as I did it. Some tools may be substituted for others, this is just what I used. Note: you will NOT need a torch to complete this task. :)Tools:normal hand tools - screwdrivers, pliers, hammer, etc drill router with straight bit circular saw reciprocating saw utility knife air compressor air stapler straightedge (at least as long as the door is wide) squarepencil caulk gun sawhorses clampsSupplies:replacement steel entry door Liquid nails 1 1/2"-2" staples scrap woodAfter some research, I purchased my door from Menards for two reasons. The first is because they regularly go on sale for $119. Second because I think it is a better built door. The doors are made by Midwest Manufacturing, who has a door comparison here. I assume competitor H and competitor L refer to Home Depot and Lowes, but that's only an assumption. I do have experience with the Reliabilt brand door from Lowes, and my opinion is that this Menards/Midwest MFG door feels like a better built, heavier duty door.
Pittsburgh Paints & Stains® Trim, Door & Furniture Pitsburgh Paints & Stains Trim, Door & Furniture paint is the solution for updating your home so it can withstand even the most active lifestyles. The high-performance alkyd/oil formula resists chipping and scuffing, and gives UV protection while providing a high gloss, smooth, glass-like finish. Find Your Perfect Color Find Your Nearest Menards Gel consistency for easy application Alkyd/oil formula that resists chipping and scuffing High gloss sheen provides a smooth, glass-like finish with no brush marks UV protection resists fading for indoor or outdoor use Ideal for indoor and outdoor surfaces such as trim, furniture, cabinets, and exterior and interior doors. Area Preparation: Paint on clean, dry, and sounds surfaces. Fills cracks and nail holes with latex spackle. Sand smooth and dust clean, if needed. If you scrape, sand, or remove old paint, you may release lead dust or fumes.
EXPOSURE TO LEAD DUST OR FUMES CAN CAUSE SERIOUS ILLNESS, SUCH AS BRAIN DAMAGE, ESPECIALLY IN CHILDREN. PREGNANT WOMEN SHOULD ALSO AVOID EXPOSURE. Wear a properly fitted NIOSH-approved respirator and prevent skin contact to control lead exposure. Clean up carefully with a HEPA vacuum and a wet mop. Before you start, find out how to protect yourself and your family by contacting the USEPA National Lead Information Hotline at 1-800-424-LEAD or log on to www.epa.gov/lead. Follow these instructions to control exposure to other hazardous substances that may be released during surface preparation. Application: Product is ready to use. If any separation is present, gentle stir until mixed, shake if necessary. Apply with a premium quality china bristle brush or nylon/polyester blend brush. Dip brush into the quart can and begin brushing. As you brush paint with thin. Brush until paint finish is smoother and even. Minor brush marks with self-level. Follow with back brushing for smoothest finish.
Application Temperature: Apply only when surface or air pemperature is above 40°F (4°C). Drying Time: At 77°F (25°C) dries to touch in 4-6 hours, to handle in 8 hours and to recoat overnight. Furniture or shelving may be put into use 72 hours after final coat. Doors or cabinets may be closed 24 hours after final coat. Cleanup: Clean tools immediately with mineral spirits or VM&P Naptha.We're sorry, but we could not fulfill your request for /blog/ on this server. An invalid request was received from your browser. This may be caused by a malfunctioning proxy server or browser privacy software. Your technical support key is: 2e89-c4ba-1756-6707 You can use this key to fix this problem yourself. and be sure to provide the technical support key shown above. This project starts after preparation of the pocket door site has been completed --- drywall has been removed, studs, plates and sills have been removed, and electrical and plumbing issues have been handled.
Be sure to purchase a high-quality pocket door frame with durable hardware. Additionally, the size of the header increases with the weight of the door, so be sure to factor this in. Most pocket door frame kits specify how big the header should be. The door rides through a channel made by what are called "split studs." These studs function like regular wall studs but are metal-wrapped and form a hollow channel in the middle for the pocket door to pass through. Attach the split studs to the floor and to the header, checking for plumb. When you hang the new drywall that will hide the pocket door when it's open, you'll attach the drywall to the exterior (wood) side of these split studs. Attach the hanging brackets to the top of the door and slide the wheels into the track. Attach the door to the wheels, clipping the brackets onto the pins that extend from the wheels; then install the guide at the bottom of the door to ensure that the door will operate without rubbing.
Install the pocket door "pulls" that accompany the framing kit. If you want to install other hardware, be sure that it can be inset into both sides of the door without blocking the door's operation. Hang drywall to cover up the area behind the open pocket door. Measure, cut and install trim around the door, starting with the top header trim piece and then the side jambs. For the casing trim (outside), use finish nails just long enough to "bite" into the 2 x 4s -- longer nails might extend too far into the door chamber and scratch the door during opening and closing. Sign up for weekly project ideas and advice from experts Privacy Policy Sign Up for More We love to DIY. You love to DIY. See the latest DIY projects, catch up on trends and meet more cool people who love to create. Make It. Fix It. Learn It. Find It. Get quick inspiration from Made + Remade each week. The Essential Steps to Landscape DesignTry These Plants and Groundcovers 10 Things You Must Know About Landscaping