How much should it cost to install a very basic tub surround, and resurface the enamel on a tub? The tub is generally in good condition, but the enamel looks worn - I understand that it is possible to re-enamel a tub in a way that will last a good while. The tub has an old surround that is coming loose and needs to be removed and replaced before water damages the walls underneath. I have seen surrounds that look good to me at Lowes and Home Depot for $200- $300. Can I buy one of those and have a plumber or contractor resurface the tub and then install my surround, or will they expect me to buy one of theirs? Would a bathroom specialist have ones of a similar price? Other related questions here have involved full tub replacement, or replacing both tub surround and walls - i don't think that will be necessary - i just want an affordable, professional installation of the surround and a good, long-lasting update to the tub's enamel. Is there any chance of getting that done around $500?
Do you have the same question? Home>Remodeling - Kitchen & Bath You can pay someone to install what you buy - but don't expect them to warranty it's performance. The ones they sell are likely to be more like $500-1000 for materials for the surround - most reputable contractors go for higher end materials than the cheapest a box store has to offer. Your category is not plumber - a few tile setters do plastic/fiberglass surrounds, but mostly the Search the List category of Remodel - Kitchen and Bath contractors or Bathtub Refinishing and Liners contractors, the latter also do the tub refinishing. Total surround jobs can run from $1000 range up into several thousand depending on materials selected, and of course size of surface and what is there now that needs taking down first. For instance, if tile now, should be torn down to the bare studs and rebuilt from there with waterproof sheeting and waterproof cement backer board before trying to apply a surround, though there re those who just slap on a few squiggles of liquid nails or silicone adhesive and slap the surround right over the tile - and it end up looking like they did just that
Tub refinishing from around $350-500 range on up to $1000+ depending on method and how much the contractor thinks he can get. Pricing in that area seems to be wide open - I recently heard of one job where a tub refinish and fiberglass surround was billed at $12,000 - which would have replaced the tub with a custom tub or shower and high-end tile and very high end fixtures and doors. However, I have also seen a sprayed epoxy job that looked about as good as new enamel for $400, so xxxx any home improvment job a LOT depends on the contractor and his skill and price in his workmanship. So be sure price is reasonable compared to a replacement. For more info on costs and issues with tub refinishing and surrounds check out prior responses in the Home > Bath remodeling (or Remodeling - Bath or some such similar phrasing) in Browse Projects, at lower left. On the any chance of getting that done for around $500 - if you meant just the tub refinish, then yes with a "paint" type finish - not a higher-end heat cured epoxy or enamel or plasma applied "synthetic porcelain".
If you meant the whole job for $500, sure - I could slap up some painted fiberboard or formica and a half gallon of white rustoleum on the tub for that - lifetime guaranteed as long as never exposed to moisture. Course, if you want something that will actually look better than the $10 A Night Motel built in 1950, then not a prayer for $500. Answered 2 years ago cost to replace bathtub with surround tub cost to remove tile, mold behind it, and bathtub, then install surround tub cost of labor to replace tub and surround in bathroom Looking for best quality tub surround Repair a bathroom shrower/tub surroundWhen Airstone contacted me last month to see if I’d be interested in trying their product, I had no idea what it was. So, of course I checked out the site and did a little research. It didn’t take me long to think this super light faux stone had loads of potential in all kinds of applications. Here are just a few pictures from other customers posted to the website:
So, what is Airstone? Technically, it’s a manufactured stone veneer containing 80% recycled materials. That means it’s lighter than real stone as well as concrete, and it’s eco-friendly. To install, all you need is adhesive, a putty knife, and a hacksaw. You can use it for indoor and outdoor applications (on appropriate substrates). But here’s my favorite part: it’s affordable. You get all the benefits of a natural stone look without having to buy thinset, grout, spacers…or a wet saw. Bonus: you don’t have to know how to use any of that stuff either. Since I tackled my kitchen backsplash the old fashioned way awhile ago (got the wetsaw in the basement to prove it), I thought for a long time about the best way to feature Airstone in my home. I wanted to try something I hadn’t seen on Pinterest yet. The idea of an accent wall appealed to me, but I couldn’t decide where I’d do it. If you read the title of this post, you can probably decipher where this project is heading…
That’s the guest bathroom (the main floor bathroom) in all it’s builder grade glory- a pre-fab, 3 walled tub/shower surround with zero awesomeness. I have been dreaming of “re-facing” the front of the tubs in both bathrooms for some time (I have a different material in mind for upstairs, it starts with a “bead” and ends with an “oard”). Since I knew Airstone can be used outside, I got pretty excited about the prospect of trying it out in this application. One of their installation experts gave me the go ahead in a quick chat, then I was off and running. Currently Airstone comes in two colors, one being more gray and the other more tan. I chose the gray (Spring Creek) because I thought it would look best with the wall colors and vanity. Since I wasn’t rounding any corners and both sides of the tub have walls, I only needed the flat stones (there are also “corner” and “natural edge” varieties). Two boxes of Airstone, 2 tubes of PL Premium Construction Adhesive, a putty knife, and a hacksaw came home with me.
I already had a caulk-gun, so I didn’t buy one- but you will need one for the exterior adhesive. P.S. I’m convinced there is no such thing as a dripless caulk gun. But back to the install, here it is in two steps: If that seems simple, that’s because it is. You just lay the stones end-to-end however you like, trying to alternate the seams (like wood flooring). Now if you have one of these pre-fab tub/showers deals, you might already know that the tub front is not completely flat. If you look at the top right corner of the tub you can see the tub goes slightly in. I had a hunch that I’d be able to compensate with the Airstone because of the natural depth variation in each stone, something I doubt would be possible with a straight tile job (at least not without installing a flat surface first). Yeah, that almost never happens to me on the first try. I was shocked too. Because my tub is not very wide, I started with stones on one end and installed about 3 or 4, then I moved to the other side.
I just didn’t want to have all cut pieces at one end. But the adhesive has quite a long working time, so you can replace stones as needed if you want. Make your cuts as you go, it’s best not to move onto the next row with a hole on the previous. A simple hacksaw will cut Airstone, no power tools needed. When I got to the last row of full height bricks (not to the top, but as far up as I could go), I started experimenting with trim. I tried a piece of molding (similar to chair rail), but actually simple quarter round looked the best! First I had to deal with that little inset area in the corner though, remember? My first inclination was to ignore it…I mean the shower curtain would cover it anyway. I’d just cut a piece to go the length of the inner portion and call it a day. But I just couldn’t! I mean I’ve been working with my little miter box saw for awhile now, and it’d be a shame to waste all those skills… Ok-so by those cuts you wouldn’t think I have skills, but I swear the problem is that it’s not exactly a 90 degree corner.
I knew I’d have to fudge it with caulk and spackle. Looking pretty finished now, I’m on a roll! Oh yeah, check out that craftsmanship. Or, it will be after come spackle, caulk, and paint- which is still in the works (stuff takes time to dry, yo). And it will be covered by curtains. Ohmygosh I totally pulled a curtain switch on you too, did you notice? Well I couldn’t very well install a posh tub surround and then cover it up with a curtain now could I? If you are patient, you can find two matching curtain panels that are not lime green at Ross. It took me about a week. I also picked up a set of sheers with a bonus valence (for another project, you’ll see!). I got an extra tension rod for $4.99, so I think this was less than $25 alltogether. The curtains and (1) sheer panel are on a rod, and the liner is on another rod behind. I’m not sure if this is the best permanent solution, ideally the liner and sheer would be together (in my head, I want the curtains to stay still and the liner/sheer to be opened and closed).