top, and similarly at the sill. Clad door frames are flashed like clad windows (see our window flashing illustrations below, Figures 3-13, Figure 3-15, Figure 3-16) and solid wood frames are flashed like traditional windows with brickmold (Figures 3-17 also below). [Click to enlarge any image] Figure 3-13: Installing Flange-type WIndows Over House-Wrap Figure 3-15: Installing Flange-type Windows Before the House Wrap is Applied Figure 3-16: Installing Flange-type Windows with Felt Paper This article includes excerpts or adaptations from Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction, by Steven Bliss, courtesy of Wiley & Sons. See WINDOWS & DOORS our home page for window and door information, and also see WINDOW TYPES - Photo Guide for a photographic guide to window and door types and architectural styles. Figure 3-17: Installing Windows with Brickmold Trim door is well-protected by a porch or large overhang, good pan flashing at the sill is critical to prevent water from
seeping into the floor framing. Doors leading to patios and decks are particularly vulnerable to wetting around the sill from splashback and, in cold climates, from snow Prefab plastic door pans typically come in three sections that are fused together at the required length with solvent-based cement. Metal pans require a brake to form and should be caulked or, preferably, soldered In fact the absence of effective flashing at this 20-year-old sliding glass door led to the need for a complete door, door jamb, and trim replacement on this Poughkeepsie home. When the new door was installed we included a sit-built pan flashing and membrane flashing around the door for a more durable replacement. Peel-and-stick membranes have become increasingly popular due to their ease of use and flexibility. Whether to use a metal pan, plastic pan, or peel-and stick membranes is a matter of personal preference as all work well (see Figure 3-26 below).
Whatever material is used, all pans should have a dam on the ends and along the inside edge. On the exterior, the pan flashing should lap over the deck or masonry flashingIf forming a pan with peel-and-stick membrane, carry it up the sides at least 6 inches, and turn up the inside edge so it is held in place by the underlayment or finish flooring (Figure 3-27 above). As noted in Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction Chapter 3, BEST PRACTICES GUIDE: WINDOWS & DOORS: -- Adapted and paraphrased, edited, and supplemented, with permission from Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction. Continue reading at WINDOW / DOOR AIR LEAK SEALING HOW TO or select a topic from the More Reading links or topic ARTICLE INDEX shown below. - online encyclopedia of building & environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, & problem prevention advice. OR use the Search Box found below at Ask a Question or Search InspectApedia Click to Show or Hide FAQs
Questions & answers or comments about choosing & installing exterior doors. Use the "Click to Show or Hide FAQs" link just above to see recently-posted questions, comments, replies, try the search box just below, or if you prefer, post a question or comment in the Comments box below and we will respond promptly. Click to Show or Hide Citations & References Publisher's Google+ Page by Daniel FriedmanInfo-302: Pan Flashing for Exterior Wall Openings Building Science Experts' SessionVideo: How To Flash a Rough Opening Everything looks pretty good here, so the next step is to install drainage at the sill and layers of flashing all around the rough opening. This may be the most important part of this whole job. I’ve taken enough houses apart to know that water will eventually find a way to get behind the siding and trim, no matter how well they are installed. These layers of flashing protect the house’s framing from water and rot. The first thing I am going to do is create some simple drainage at the sill to shed any water that does get in away from the house
All Videos in This Series How To Remove an Old Door, Trim, and Siding How To Flash a Rough Opening How To Trim a New Door Getting Ready for Door Installation Door Installation, Final Air Sealing, and Patching the Siding I use a piece of factory-primed beveled siding to create drainage. I fasten the siding with spray-foam adhesive and screws. You may have seen this technique used for window installations. Flexible flashing products are tenaciously sticky, so before installing the first piece over the sill, I draw a plumb line on the sheathing. This way I can line up the edge of the flashing, and know that it will run parallel with the sill. The first piece of flashing extends across the bottom of the opening. I make a slit on each end that allows the flashing to wrap over the sill and extend up the face of the wall. Small bow-tie-shaped piece of flashing, made by doubling the flashing on itself and cutting it into a triangle, cover the critical area where the outer edge of the bottom plate meets the sill.
I cover each side of the rough opening with two pieces of flashing. The first covers the bottom half of the opening, lapping the sill flashing as far as possible. The second laps over the first and extends to the top of the opening, where the sequence is reversed: Bow ties first, then the last piece of flashing which extends across the top of the opening, lapping the side pieces as much as possible. There are a lot of pieces of flashing to install, but the idea is always the same: Like installing house wrap or siding, you always work in layers from the bottom up when flashing. Now we can move on to one of the more fun part of the job, trimming the door. Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox Episode 39: Septic, House Flipping, Showers, Doors Featuring cautionary tales of injury, blood, infection, and close calls. Video Vault: Make the Most of Your Tape Impromptu Job-Site Door Buck Episode 26: Drywall, Barrier-Free Entries, and Prep for Exterior Painting