The backset is the distance from the edge of the door to the center of the 2-1/8-inch bore hole. In the United States, there are two common backsets for residential door locks: 2 3/8 inches and 2 3/4 inches. Pack your locks with a 2-3/8-inch or 2-3/4-inch latch, depending on which backset you specify. Dummy sets have no latch and are surface-mounted so you can install a dummy set wherever you choose on the door. The door prep is a set of drilled holes in the door, where the latch will fit in. If you’re replacing existing locks, then your door preps will most likely be correct for most locks. Just determine the backset, and you're ready to buy or order. If you're installing locks in new doors that don’t have a door prep, you can follow the instructions below. Passage, privacy, key-in-knob, or lever, and deadbolt locks Fit into the door prep shown above.������ Bore a 2-1/8-inch hole through the door. The center of this hole should be located 2 3/8 inches or 2 3/4 inches back from the edge of the door.
(This is the backset dimension.) Bore a 1-inch hole in the edge of the door located on the centerline of the 2-1/8-inch hole. The latch will fit into the 1-inch hole. Chisel out a 1-inch-by-2-1/4-inch rectangle on the edge of the door, 1/8 of an inch deep. The latch faceplate will sit in this recession���. Require no door prep. Dummy handles are surface-mounted and may be located anywhere on the door you choose, but they’re usually located to match the appearance of nearby operating locks. The standard size for an exterior door is 80 inches (6 feet, 8 inches) by 36 inches (3 feet). Stock exterior doors are also commonly available in 30-inch and 32-inch widths. The standard door thickness is 1 ¾ inches. Some door manufacturers carry stock doors in 7-foot and 8-foot heights and door widths from 24 inches to 42 inches.������Patio Doors Patio doors are constructed of glass with a frame. The standard size is 6 feet, 8 inches tall and 6 feet wide. However, patio doors are routinely available in 6-foot, 11-inch and 8-foot heights.
Door parameters: A standard, interior, hollow-core door is classified as a measurement. The most common residential bedroom doors are a 2 feet, 6 inches by 6 feet, 8 inches. Measure width first and then height. Handing: There are two methods of handing or door swing. The first method, or the residential method, is to go to the side of the door where you can see the hinges, when the door is closed. If you can't see the hinges, you're on the wrong side. If you can see the hinges, make the call. The door in the example is a 2-foot-6-inch-by-6-foot-8-inch left. The second method, or the commercial method, is to open the door, back yourself up to the hinge jamb and swing your right arm the way the door swings. So this would be a 2-foot-6-inch-by-6-foot-8-inch right, just the opposite of what we described as residential. Door Thickness: Most standard interior doors are 1 3/8 inches thick, and the door is slightly beveled to make the closure into the jamb. Buy the correct door hardware for the application so the door handles for passage or privacy have the correct back set and bore.
How do I determine the door backset? Backset is the distance from the edge of the door to center of the 2 1/8” (54mm) diameter hole.In most cases the backset will be 2 3/8” or 2 ¾”. No documents matching this FAQ.Cart items Total: $0 If you dont have any hardware on your door, just measure from the edge of the door to the center of the bore hole (the large hole where the door knob assembly is mounted). Standard backsets are either a 2 3/8" backset, or 2 3/4″ backset. The most common backset is 2 3/8″ but 2 3/4" is also quite common - usually used on exterior doors. Sometimes it's easier to measure from the edge of the door to the highest point on the bore hole. If you don't order the correct backset, your latches will either be too long or too short and you will not be able to mount your door hardware. Some brands of door hardware like Schlage, Weiser, Kwikset, Sure-Loc and Weslock are shipped with adjustable backset latches which makes ordering easy. We generally only ask you for your backset on hardware that requires it.
If you already have door hardware mounted to your doors you can remove the hardware and measure as we have indicated above, but you don't need to. You can measure from the edge of the door to the center of the backplate behind the knob. See the picture to the left as an example. This particular door has a 2 3/8" backset. Have a 5″ Backset? We have 5" backsets available for Schlage and Kwikset. You can order new knobs and levers with 5" backsets in those brands, but you would not be able to use their 5" backsets with other brands. You can order replacement 5" backsets by choosing one of the links below: Schlage 5" Backset for Knob or Lever Schlage 5" Deadbotl Latch Kwikset 5" Backset for Door Knob or Lever Kwikset 5" Backset for Deadbolt Have a 2 1/2″ Backset and a box in your door instead of a standard latch? You need a mortise lock. Have a 2" Backset? Your options are limited because not many manufacturers make a backset that small, but we can help.
Check out the links below. 2" Backset Single Cylinder Lock. 2" Backset Double Cylinder LockIssue 232 - Dec 2012/Jan 2013 Boring and mortising a door for a knob or lock is not a hard job, but if you get the holes in the wrong spot, you’re in for a tough fix. You might even have to buy a new door. Fortunately, it’s easy to get the holes right if you pay attention to two critical dimensions and use the paper layout template that comes with the door.You need a 2-1⁄8-in. hole saw and a 1-in. spade bit for making the holes. A few dead bolts need a 1-1⁄2-in. hole saw instead of a 2-1⁄8-in. hole saw, though, so check the instructions to make sure you have the right one. The first critical dimension you need to know is the door thickness. Exterior doors are generally 1-3⁄4-in. thick. Most interior doors are 1-3⁄8-in. thick. When it’s time to mark the door for boring, choose the mark on the template that corresponds to the door thickness. If the door is thinner than 1-3⁄8-in. or thicker than 1-3⁄4-in., you’ll likely need a special-order lock.
The second critical dimension is backset, which is the distance the center of the knob or dead bolt is from the edge of the door. Doors almost always have either a 2-3⁄8-in. or 2-3⁄4-in. backset, and most modern locksets and dead bolts accommodate both. If you’re adding a dead bolt, match the backset of the existing doorknob; if you’re starting with a new door, choose the backset based on the door. Generally, 2-3⁄4 in. is the preferred backset because it leaves more room for your knuckles when you’re closing the door. However, narrow doors (less than 32-in.) and doors with narrow stiles, such as many full-glass doors, often look better with a 2-3⁄8-in. backset because it brings the knob closer to the center of the stile. Most doorknobs are installed between 32-in. and 36-in. above the floor; dead bolts are about 44-in. above the floor. However, you may have to adjust these dimensions slightly to match other doors or to avoid interfering with screen-door hardware. Once you’ve drilled the door, mark the mortises with a sharp utility knife.
I like to screw the strike and strike plate in place temporarily and then scribe around them. The knife groove makes it easier to locate the chisel accurately. Make sure your chisel is sharp, and work from the top and bottom toward the hole in the center to prevent slipping past the outline of the mortise. Finally, be sure to use the 3-in.-long screws that come with the dead bolts, because they provide much greater resistance to forceable entry than do shorter screws. 1. Tape on the template. With the template level and attached to the door with painter’s tape, mark the center of the cross bore with a nail or scratch awl, then mark the center of the edge-bore hole based on the door thickness. Make both marks deep enough to prevent the pilot bit on the hole saw from moving when you start the drill. 2. Drill the cross bore. Using a 2-1⁄8-in. hole saw or a 1-1⁄2-in. hole saw (check the lock instructions), drill about 1-in. deep. Remove the hole saw, and use the pilot hole to register it for drilling from the other side.
Keep the bit level, and maintain a firm grip on the drill. 3. Drill the edge bore. Check the manufacturer’s instructions for the edge-bore diameter. Most strike assemblies require a 1-in. hole. Use a spade bit for wood edges and a hole saw for metal edges. Keep the bit level and straight so that the bolt will operate smoothly. 4. Mark the mortise. Insert the bolt assembly into the door edge, and temporarily screw it in place. Mark the shape on the door’s edge with a utility knife. Do this in several light passes so that you don’t slip with the knife and mar the door. Remove the bolt assembly. 5. Chisel the mortise. Use a sharp 1⁄2-in. chisel to cut the mortise for the bolt assembly. Work from the edges toward the hole to avoid slipping with the chisel and messing up the door’s edge. Work incrementally, taking shallow passes and keeping the bottom of the mortise level. Deepen the mortise until the bolt fits flush with the edge of the door. 6. Fasten the bolt.
Using the screw holes made earlier, drive in the screws that secure the dead bolt to the door’s edge. A conventional screwdriver is less likely to strip or damage the screw heads than a cordless drill or impact driver. 7. Install the lock assembly. With the lock oriented correctly and right side up, align the parts to correspond with the proper backset (2-3⁄8-in. or 2-3⁄4-in.), and drive in the long screws that attach the two halves of the assembly. 8. Locate the strike. Cover the end of the bolt with chalk powder. While holding the door shut, operate the lock to transfer the bolt location to the jamb. With the mark centered in the strike plate, trace the hole in the center of the strike. 9. Drill the jamb. Use a 1-in. spade bit to drill through the jamb for the lock bolt. Close the door, and check the lock operation. If the lock is tough to turn or won’t engage fully, expand the hole with a small chisel or round file until the bolt engages easily. 10. Install the strike.