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Edit ArticleHow to Make a Desk Chair from a Car Seat Three Parts:Making A SubframeMaking the MountsFinishing UpCommunity Q&A Good, comfortable desk chairs can sometimes be absurdly expensive, and even many of the most expensive ones concern themselves more with aesthetics rather than hour-on-hour comfort. If you're on a budget, making a desk chair from a car seat and a surplus swiveling desk chair is straightforward, fun, and results in something extraordinarily comfortable. Since the strength and accuracy requirements are not all that great, it also makes an excellent first welding project for metalworking beginners. (Or, build up the car-seat to swivel-base coupling from sturdy plywood, glue, and bolts with metal washers or scabs to reinforce attachment points for a bulkier but easier and potentially safer to build alternative. It can be painted to match the other parts.) Gather your supplies, tools, and materials, listed in the "Things You'll Need" section below. See how the desk chair's seat is attached to its mount.
Remove the padding (seat and back) from the desk chair. Unbolt the seat rails from your car seat. Measure the distance between the bolt holes for the seat rail, from front to rear.two Measure the distance between the bolt holes from side to side. Subtract from this two times the width of the widest side of your steel box-section. For example, if your box section is 62mm, and the distance is 355mm, then you want 355 - 62 - 62 = 231 mm. Mark two of these lengths on your steel box-section. These will be "Lengths B". Go back to your stripped-down desk chair.one Cut out the lengths you have marked on your box section.that Lay these sections down on a flat surface, widest length down, and position them.centers Make sure the sections are positioned accurately then weld them together. Measure the width of the base plate of your desk chair (the opposite measurement to the one you took in step 5) and write it down.centers Take your old desk chair base.
Finally, and optionally, use your angle grinder to clean up any messy welds. We're going to need something to hold the chair in place to our new subframe. For this, we'll make some mounts out of some steel plate. Mark out three rectangles on your steel plate. Mark a bolt hole near the top of each of these.did Drill these holes out. Cut out your rectangles. Position your mounts on the subframe. Weld the mounts into place. Optionally, paint your subframe and your mounts in black paint. Bolt your subframe to your car seat. Clean up the car seat. A salvage tilting, swiveling desk chair. The condition of the seat itself does not matter, since you'll be getting rid of it: what you want is the mechanical base. You can probably acquire one of these for free, since these are discarded thoughtlessly all over the place. The important thing is that the part where the seat bolts on is made of steel. Because a car seat is fairly large and heavy, and likely to be reclined shifting your weight distribution on it, a wide, sturdy base typical of a large, reclinable chair (known as an "manager" or "executive" chair in the US) is best.
A five-footed one is preferable, but not essential. A car front seat. Head to your local junkyard and find something comfortable and not too worn out. Ideally, you want something from a sporty-ish car, as these tend to be much more supportive and adjustable; try before you buy to find one right for you. Our example used a seat from a Vauxhall Astra GTE; early Toyota Supra seats are also excellent. The most important thing is that the seat is entirely manual in operation; any electrical components will, of course, be useless, and may complicate dismantling the seat. Look for a seat with adjustable armrests attached to the sides of the seat itself. A leather-covered seat is more likely to be and easier to keep clean, but a cloth-covered one may be more comfortable because it grips you somewhat rather than just sliding you toward its lowest point.If you don't have one of these, the angle grinder fitted with cutting discs is fine (if less accurate).a small 115mm (6") one is fine.
You'll want both cutting and grinding discs for it. A hacksaw, a file, and a lot of patience. If in doubt, cut OFF slightly less metal rather than too much. Metal can always be ground away, but not added back. More than likely, the given design for the subframe is overkill in using both longitudinal and lateral reinforcement. Mostly, this is for the benefit of inexperienced welders, in that there'll be something to fall back on in case one (or several) welds fail. It also accounts for the desk chair base failing. Nevertheless, if you do this more than a couple of times, then you'll probably find ways to alter the design. Learn to be comfortable with both Imperial (feet and inches) and metric measurements. Both have their place in metalworking depending on the degree of accuracy required. This article uses either, where it is appropriate. When drilling the holes in the mounts out, it may well be quicker and easier to drill a hole with a small drill bit first, then work your way up to the desired size.
Some commercial vehicles such as trucks and buses have seats already on platforms for attachment to their flat floors. These are likely to be designed for long, comfortable use, and might just require attaching a wider flat panel to the existing base for stability. Use caution with newer car seats. Some may contain side air-bags containing explosive charges. Do not use those seats. Always use a welding hood when welding or when watching someone weld; looking directly at the light can result in a very painful ailment called "arc eye." Also known as "flash burn," or "arc burn," this is the equivalent of a sunburn on your eye. It feels as though your eyes are full of sand or if really severe, broken glass and can do permanent damage. Any area of exposed skin is also subject to this effect, so cover up (arms, hands, neck, etc). Count the casters on the old office chair you want to use. Have you ever noticed that really old chairs have four casters and newer ones have five or six?