Home > Specifiers > Cavity Closers Find your nearest Eurocell BranchFind your nearest Eurocell Branch The indispensable building component – 100% post-consumer recycled UPVC cavity closers Cavity closers have become a critical building component that’s now widely used in all commercial and residential new-build projects. They are undoubtedly the simplest and most effective way to seal cavities around wall openings and provide a rigid template for bricklaying and window or door installation. Our unrivalled range of innovative cavity closers won’t just help you meet today’s sustainable legislation, but that of the future.One of the main Cavalok products is BigBlok. A leading insulated cavity closer system designed for zero-carbon buildings, which means it already satisfies the 2016 Code for Sustainable Homes Level 6. Manufactured from 100% post-consumer UPVC Pre-installed polystyrene core enhances thermal efficiency for Part L compliance Time saving clip together assembly – no adhesives or tools required Quick-fit spring clip for fast installation of pre-glazed windows
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from changing tables to cribs, night lights, decor and more. Sliding glass doors present many dangers to children. Keep them a little safer with this lock that works on glass, mirrors, wood or any other surface where drilling is difficult or unwanted. Helps prevent accidents and won't deface the surface when installed. Product Dimensions9 x 2 x 1 inches Material TypePhthalate Free, Latex Free, Lead Free, BPA Free #83,840 in Baby (See top 100) in Baby > Safety > Cabinet Locks & Straps in Baby > Bedding > Crib Bedding in Home & Kitchen > Bedding Product Warranty: For warranty information about this product, please click here 5 star27%4 star15%3 star10%2 star14%1 star34%See all verified purchase reviewsTop Customer ReviewsThe best I've foundHow they're installed makes all the difference.Very effective, but toddler can breakStay At Home Mom's New Best Friend!doesn't stickOkgood, not perfect Sure Basics SB22 Sliding Door Lock, Grey/White, 2 Pack
kidco, inc. s339 2 Pack, White, Sliding Closet Door Lock Cardinal Gates Patio Door Guardian, White Dreambaby Sliding Door and Window Locks See and discover other items: child safety straps for cabinets, child safety lock for sliding doors2 - 2x10 @ 8 feet long 2 - 1x8 @ 8 feet long 2 - 1x10 @ 8 feet long 1 sheet of 1/4" thick plywood or hardboard (for back) 3 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long 4 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long 6 - 2x3 @ 8 feet long 2 - project panel pieces 17-1/4" x 36" (may be advertised as 18" wide project panel - measure in store) Hardware for sliding doors Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws.
Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. 4 - 2x3 @ 84" 4 - 2x3 @ 17" 4 - 2x3 @ 14" 2 - 3/4" thick project panels or plywood 36" x 17-1/4" 5 - 1x4 @ 36" 8 - 1x4 @ 17-3/4" 2 - 1x8 @ 87" 2 - 1x10 @ 87" Middle Shelf Supports and Cleats 5 - 1x2 @ 14" 5 - 1x2 @ 17" 1/4" plywood pieces 36" long 1 - 1x2 @ 90" - both ends cut at 45 degrees, NOT parallel, longest point measurement 2 - 1x2 @ 18-3/4" - one end cut at 45 degrees, longest point measurement 2 - 2x10 @ 91" Doors are cut to fit, overall 20" x 30" Build two frames out of 2x3s. The frames should be screwed together as this is the main support for the entire piece. Use 2-1/2" or longer screws, or for those of you with a Kreg Jig, use 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws. Don't forget to glue the joints.
Don't be concrened about being perfect here, the entire frame is concealed. For the sides, add the side panels. This plan is designed to work with project panels 17-1/4" wide. You can use any material here, plywood or reclaimed wood too. I recommend screwing these to the frames, but you could also use nails and glue - nails should be at least 1-1/4" long. I love how the back overhangs by 1/4" to conceal the back (will put that on in later steps). Now the face frame. With the projec ton it's back, lay out all the face frame boards and glue and nail down. Nails should be at least 1-1/4" long. Pocket hole users could also build the face frame seperately and attach. Lay the bottom shelf boards down on the bottom frame. Nail and glue down, with nails longer than 1-1/4". There can be a gap between the boards, but the shelf should not go past the back of the bottom frame (sides overhang by 1/4" to allow for the back). These guys are for supporting the weight of the middle shelf.
Nikki felt they weren't as necessary in a shorter span but for a longer shelf span, it's a good idea to have them. Plus, it also makes construction easier. Nail and glue down with 1-1/4" nails. You can also add two more at the back of the sides if you want. Build your bottom shelf by attaching bottom shelf boards to the shelf cleats. Use 1-1/4" long nails and glue to attach. Can have a gap in the middle. Place shelf inside console and attach from outsides to secure in place. To get the planked look on the back of the console, Nikki ripped 1/4" plywood into strips and then attached the individual strips to the back. You can also use full sheet of 1/4" plywood. You can use shorter nails here but if you don't want to buy a shorter nail (3/4" would be ideal) the 1-1/4" nails would be fine. The bottom is trimmed out in simple 1x2s, mitered around corners. Use 1-1/4" nails and glue to secure. Attach top with the longer screws you used to build the top frames (2-1/2" or longer) so top is flush to back and side overhangs are even.