One of the many things that I really loathed about our house when we moved into it was the nasty old, plain, flat wood bi-fold closet doors. I have had my heart set on replacing them ever since we moved in; however, when I priced it out - I just couldn't afford what I wanted! So as usual, the wheels in my head started turning: how could I get the look I wanted at a price I could afford??? Do it myself of course! I formulated a plan and decided to try it out as part of my home studio renovation, before I tackled all the closets in the house! - Straight, flat bi-fold closet doors. - Several feet of straight, flat casing, approx 2.5" wide. - DAP (white, paintable silicone) - Primer & paint - Door handles / pulls and extra-long screws - Micro-pinner (brad-nailer) with 1" brads. - An extra set of hands is useful! 1) Lightly sand front surface of closet doors. Wipe clean with a damp rag. 2) Measure length of closet door and subtract the width of your casing from the bottom and top (length of closet - 5" in this case).
Cut as many lengths of casing as you will need for each side of each bi-fold door according to your measurements (in this case, 8). 3) Leaving closet doors in place and working from right to left, place first length of casing in position on the left side of the first bi-fold door (leaving 2.5" at the top, and 2.5" at the bottom). This first one is a little tricky, because you will need to place it slightly away from the left edge of the bi-fold door so that it will not inhibit the movement of the door when it opens and closes (in this case, we placed it .5" in from the left edge of the bi-fold door). When you are confident that you have it in the right position, apply a thin strip of wood glue to the back of the length of casing, and secure it in place on the bi-fold door with your micro-pinner. 4) Your going to do the same thing with your next length of casing on the right side of the first bi-fold door, but this time, you can bring the length of casing right flush to the right edge of the bi-fold door, and secure in place with wood glue and micro-pinner.
5) Start on the left side of the 2nd bi-fold door with your next length of casing, bringing the casing flush to the left edge of the 2nd bi-fold door, and secure in place. 6) Place the next length of casing in position on the right side of the 2nd bi-fold door (flush to the edge) and secure in place. 7) Repeat this process for each bi-fold door, until you reach the right side of the last bi-fold door. Here, you will want to position the last length of casing slightly in from the right edge of the bi-fold door so that it does not inhibit the movement of the door when it opens and closes (again in this case, .5"). When you are confident that you have it in the right position, secure the length of casing to the bi-fold door with wood glue and micro-pinner. 8) Measure the top and bottom widths of each bi-fold door, and cut lengths of casing for the top and bottom of each door according to your measurements. Secure top and bottom pieces of casing to each bi-fold door (making sure ends are flush with edges of vertical casing pieces) with wood glue and micro-pinner.
9) Take the length of your vertical pieces of casing and divide by 5 to find the measurements of where to mark the interior space of each bi-fold door into 5 equal sections. Measure the width of each section, cut a piece of casing according to your measurement and secure to bi-fold door with wood glue and micro-pinner on your marks (you will want these to be in the same place for every door so that they all align properly). 10) Use DAP to fill all cracks and gaps. (See here for more information if you haven't done this before.) 11) Paint all closet doors with 1 coat of primer. 12) Paint all closet doors with 2 coats of paint. 13) Mark and drill coordinating holes for handles, and install handles (you will probably need to pick up some screws for your handles that are longer than the ones they came with, I used 1 3/4" machine screws) Enjoy your "new," very affordable closet doors!See All Door Installation Instructions → I have remodeled a ton of basements and bathrooms, moved walls, dry-walled, refinished wood floors, electrical and everything else in between.
Of any product I have used in over 35 years your product wins the Gold Medal. Hanging doors is not fun, pre-hung doors included. I will NEVER not use your product. It made hanging a solid door in a very high traffic area an absolute breeze. The adjustment feature enabled me to fine tune the leveling process so the door hangs exactly level. Congratulations and many thanks for providing such a wonderful product. This is the invention of the century. It literally took me more time to watch the video than the install.Extra screws are also provide which is an important plus. After trying to hang an interior door in a very un-square opening I Googled – “easy to hang door” and found this product. I figured it had to be too good to be true but for the price couldn’t pass it up. I am so glad I took the chance. This product is super easy. It took less than 30 minutes to hang the door and it looks like a professional did it. Instructions are easy (just be sure to read and understand them before starting).
Any time I need to hang an interior door I will use this product. To whom ever invented this – thank you. You saved me so much stress (and likely money)! “We installed 160 (heavy solid-core) doors with two guys in two days! Prior to the Quick Door Hanger bracket, we did 12 doors a day.”Skip to Search Form Skip to Page Content “I also appreciate their flat rate pricing so you know what your bill will be and they don't fuss around with extra/hidden charges.” “Brian and his assistant did the installation after coming out and doing measurements.” “They came out to take measurements, offered a few ideas, and within a few days, Maryalice sent over the quote.” Yelp users haven’t asked any questions yet about Interior & Exterior Door Solutions.Kestrel Shutters & Doors – Blog Do I need a Bottom Track for my Closet Door Hardware? March 30th, 2009 | A common misconception is that closet door hardware, especially hardware for sliding closet doors, require a bottom track.
The belief is that the bottom track helps support the weight of the doors as well as keep the doors aligned. The Johnson Hardware we supply with our closet doors is actually designed to support the entire weight of the doors at the top. The rollers are all sets of 3 or 4 wheels that have been machine turned and balanced. This means that the optional bottom track is used only to help guide your sliding closet doors and bifold doors. When should I use a bottom track? You really only need to use the bottom guide when there is a concern that the doors might be bumped hard enough to swing back and forth. Some good examples would be if the doors are being be used between rooms or if you have small children or large pets. Are bottom tracks only for sliding closet doors?Larger bi-fold doors are also good candidates for a bottom guide track. Follow the same rule as with your sliding closet doors. If you think your bi-fold doors are going to be bumped a lot then a bottom guide track might be helpful.