Shop Our Online Parts Store Distressed Bronze and Oil Rubbed Bronze are "living" finishes that will change with time and use. Hinged Patio Door Hardware Styles Available with: A-Series, 400 Series and 200 Series Hinged Patio Doors Black, Gold Dust, Stone, White Bright Brass, Oil Rubbed Bronze, Satin Nickel Antique Brass, Bright Brass, Oil Rubbed Bronze Distressed Bronze, Distressed Nickel Antique Brass, Bright Brass, Brushed Chrome, Oil Rubbed Bronze, Polished Chrome, Satin Nickel Antique Brass, Bright Brass, Oil Rubbed Bronze, Satin Nickel Available with: E-Series Hinged Patio Doors Antique Brass, Black, Bright Chrome, Oil Rubbed Bronze, Dark Distressed Bronze, Light Distressed Bronze, Satin Chrome, Pewter, White, Polished Brass, Limited Lifetime Brass, Distressed Nickel, Stainless Steel Gliding Patio Door Hardware Styles Available with : E-Series, A-Series, 400 Series and 200 Series Gliding Patio Doors Available with : 100 Series Gliding Patio Doors
Antique Brass, Black, Bright Brass, Satin Nickel (Afton hardware has the same finish inside and out.) White, Sandtone, Black, Terratone, Cocoa Bean, Dark Bronze (Exterior & interior finishes of Tulsa hardware coordinate with exterior & interior color of door chosen.) Provides an extra measure of security when the door is in a locked position. Lock can be set so the door is fully closed or partially open to provide a secure venting position. Available in finishes that coordinate with hardware, for 400 Series, A-Series and E-Series patio doors. A six-pin key cylinder lock is available in styles and finishes that coordinate with hardware and allows the door to be locked and unlocked from the exterior. Available with 400 Series and A-Series patio doors. Extends interior door handle an additional 1" or 2" from the door panel to accommodate interior blinds or shades. Extenders are available in finishes that coordinate with hardware, for 400 Series and A-Series patio doors.
The hinged door panel stop helps prevent wall damage when opening the inswing door. Available in finishes that coordinate with hardware. Inswing patio doors are available with hinge finishes that coordinate with your hardware selection, for 400 Series and A-Series patio doors. 3-Year Home Improvement Protection Plan 2-Year Home Improvement Protection Plan & FREE Shipping on eligible orders. New (4) from $26.09 & FREE Shipping on orders over $35. Sold by Colden Solutions and Fulfilled by Amazon. Andersen Auxiliary Security Lock, Foot Latch - White - 1997301 FREE Shipping on orders over . DetailsAndersen® Tribeca Style - Gliding Door Thumb Latch in White Color FREE Shipping on orders over . DetailsAndersen® Reachout Lock and Receiver Kit (2 Panel) (1986 to Present) FREE Shipping. Ultra Hardware Aluminum Sliding Door and Window Lock, Pack Of 2 Ideal Security SK110A Patio Door Security Bar, Anodized Silver Prime-Line Products S 4355 Step on Sliding Door Lock with Diecast Housing and Hardened Steel Bolt, 5/8", White
Andersen Frenchwood Gliding Door Auxiliary Security Foot Bolt Lock in White For Andersen 200 and 400 series gliding patio doors. This lock Mounts to bottom of active door panel and allows partial ventilation when door is open. Item Sold as Kit; Kit Includes: 1 - Lock 2 - Grommets 2 - 2” Wood Screws 8.7 x 4.3 x 1.5 inches #14,353 in Home Improvements (See top 100) #54 in Home Improvement > Hardware > Door Hardware & Locks > Sliding Door Hardware 5 star86%4 star4%3 star6%2 star1%1 star3%See all verified purchase reviewsTop Customer ReviewsGood quality deviseGreat little lockHigh quality SOLID construction, may work on non-Anderson doors.(Not for aluminum doors)Looks good, works goodThe regular locks which come with sliding doors aren't the best quality, and are easy to openBetter than a ugly piece of woodWorks and Looks Great! Andersen® Tribeca Style - Gliding Door Thumb Latch in White Color Patio Guardian PDG01-W Patio Door Guardian Lock - White Andersen Auxiliary Security Lock, Foot Latch - Stone - 1997220
Andersen Tribeca® Style - Gliding Door Thumb Latch - Stone Color See and discover other items: security locks patio doors, andersen patio door parts, patio flooringProduct identification, installation guides, care & maintenance, and moreAndersen has the answersClick here to learn about VeriLock Security Sensors and Wireless Open/Closed Sensors Double Bolt Sliding Glass Door White Lock Newbury 2-Panel Gliding Patio Door Hardware Set in Oil Rubbed Bronze Patio Aluminum Sliding Door Security Bar Patio White Sliding Door Security Bar Tribeca 2-Panel Gliding Patio Door Hardware Set in White Anvers 2-Panel Gliding Patio Door Hardware Set in Satin Nickel Patio Chrome Sliding Door Loop Lock Patio Door Security Bolt #444 Chrome-Plated Patio Door Lock Basement Door Keyed Lock Kit Sliding Door Cylinder Lock, Keyed Alike, Keyway Chrome-Plated Patio Door Lock with Key Dark Bronze Flush-Mounted Sliding Patio Door Lock Patio Zinc Twist-in Sliding Door Lock
Patio Door Lock with Key Chrome Keyed Patio Door Lock with Rotating Bolt Adams Rite Round Face Sliding Door Mortise Lock Deadbolt Loop Lock, with Key, Aluminum Finish Chrome Keyed Alike Showcase Door Lock Patio Chrome Sliding Door Pin White Push-in Keyed Sliding Door Lock White Twist-in Sliding Patio Door Lock Sliding Door Mortise Lock, Square Face, Steel Sliding Door Loop Lock, 1-1/8 in., Nickel Plated Gliding patio doors are also referred to as sliding glass doors. Gliding patio doors have at least one door panel that glides smoothly past another door panel. You shouldn't have to muscle a sliding patio door to get it to glide along its track. A slider should move easily enough for you to open it with one hand while balancing a round of drinks in the other. If you have a balky patio door or sliding screen that moves only when you jiggle it along the track, it's easy to get things rolling again with a quick tune-up. Dirty rollers are the main reason sliding doors get stuck.
"Mud, food, and hair get ground onto the track," says Joe Giagnorio, who repairs about 80 sliders a year as service manager for Ring's End Lumber in Darien, Connecticut. "All that dirt clogs the rollers underneath the door." The remedy, which he demonstrates on the following pages, takes about an hour and works for wood, vinyl, and aluminum doors. Replacement parts — for anything from a faulty latch to torn weatherstripping — are available from retailers that sell new doors of the same make. If you follow these steps and the door still doesn't slide, it may be a sign of a poor installation or an underlying structural problem, like an undersized header above the door or a rotten sill beneath it. Hire a remodeling contractor to diagnose the problem and make the necessary fixes. But if you get the old door sliding like new, it's simple to keep it that way: "Vacuum the track well whenever you clean the room," Giagnorio says. 1. Lay a drop cloth on the floor and pop off the two plugs covering the roller adjustment screws at the bottom of the sliding-door frame.
(These are sometimes located in the edges of the door.) Insert a flathead screwdriver into each hole and turn the screw all the way counterclockwise (above). This retracts the rollers, lowering the door. 2. Outside, set up a couple of sawhorses with pads. Take down any removable grilles, shades, or drapes. Slide the door fully open and remove the head stop by backing out its screws (above). Don't leave the door unattended; without a stop, it can fall. 3. While standing inside, lean the top of the sliding-door panel toward you and lift it off the bottom track (above). Set the panel on the sawhorses. Caution: Sliding doors are heavy. Make sure to bend your knees to take the weight off your back, or recruit a helper. Clean and Lubricate Tracks 1. Use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry each roller from its pocket in the bottom of the door (above). (Rollers are typically held in by friction and the weight of the door.) If they are bent or broken, replace them with new roller assemblies, which cost about $10 each.
2. Scrape any dirt from the wheels, then clean them with denatured alcohol and a rag. Lubricate only with silicone spray (above), which doesn't hold dirt. To reinstall, align each roller's adjustment screw with its access hole and tap in the assemblies with a hammer, using a wood block to protect the wheels. Once they're seated, retract the rollers as far as possible. 3. Wipe the head track and the outside face of the removed head stop with alcohol and spray with silicone. Vacuum loose debris from the bottom track, then clean thoroughly with alcohol. The bottom track needs a more substantial lubricant than silicone; rub it a few times with a block of paraffin wax (above). 1. To replace torn or cracked weatherstripping where the sliding and fixed panels overlap, loosen its staples with a flathead screwdriver, then grab one end and pull it and the staples off the door, prying gently with a putty knife (above). Remove any remaining staples with pliers; sink the broken ones with a hammer.
The strip on the jamb side is generally glued. If it's damaged, pull it off and scrape the adhesive residue with the putty knife, taking care not to mar the finish. 2. Where the sliding panel's frame overlaps the fixed panel, orient the new weatherstripping with its flap facing as indicated on the instructions. Align the top end with the shadow line of the head stop, and secure the flange tightly along the door's edge. Drill a 1/8-inch-diameter pilot hole at each of the holes in the flange and drive the screws provided (above). Do the same on the fixed panel so the two strips interlock. Glue the jamb-side strip in place with a plastic adhesive. Clean up smudges and fingerprints with alcohol. 3. Set the door back on the bottom track and tilt it up. Brace the door with your body and reattach the head stop. (Don't leave the door unattended until stop is installed.) Roll the door to within a half-inch of the latch-side jamb, then turn the roller adjustment screws until the door is parallel to the jamb (above).
If the latch does not mate with its receiver on the jamb, adjust the receiver by loosening its screws and moving the plate up or down. Dropping a broom handle into a sliding-door track keeps the door from opening, but it's not an ideal security device. "It looks terrible, and you have to bend down to put it in and take it out," says Joe Giagnorio. He prefers retrofitting a simple foot-operated auxiliary lock, which costs under $20.Close and latch the door, then temporarily mount the lock against its lower edge. Now lower the locking bolt and mark its location on the rail in pencil (1). Remove the lock and drill a hole (sized as specified) through the track, and pop in the rubber grommet provided. Then remount the lock and test it. Stepping on the top engages the bolt (2); pressing on the side releases it. And what about the old broomstick? "I tell people with kids that it's just right for a game of stickball," Giagnorio says. Lightweight and relatively frail, sliding screens are often the most problem-plagued component of a sliding-door assembly.