That large, sliding glass patio door that you love because it lets in so much natural light? Yeah, burglars love them, too. What is a beautiful home feature to you is a welcome sign for many burglars. Well, according to one former burglar it’s because sliding glass doors: So what’s one to do? Board up the sliding glass door permanently? Replace it with large, locking steel doors? Both are options, though not great ones. Below, we’ll show you the 3 ways burglars break in through your sliding glass door and how you can prevent or deter each one. Most sliding glass doors come with a lock that is really just a latch. It shouldn’t be relied on to keep burglars out of your home. Here’s a video demonstration of a homeowner unlocking his simply by jiggling it a bit. Install a better sliding glass door lock. You have a lot of options, but here are the best ones we recommend: Security bars Security bars are strong metal bars that attach to one side of the door frame and then are extended or folded into place and brace against the sliding door to lock it into place.
Master Lock 265DCCSEN Dual-Function Security Bar shown bracing a sliding glass door You can create something similar yourself. Cut a dowel or piece of 1x1 wood to the width of your tracks when closed. Then place the brace in the tracks to “lock” the door. Traditional sliding door locks The most common type of sliding door lock is a basically a bolt that attaches to the sliding door. When shut, the bolt slides up into the frame of the door to secure it. A key then locks the bolt in position. How sliding door locks work. Double bolt locks This is a newer type of sliding door lock. Double bolt locks are 2 pieces. One piece attaches to the frame of your door. The other attaches to the sliding door. When shut, the piece that attaches to the frame nests inside of the piece that attaches to the door. Metal bolts then slide into the piece attached to your frame to secure the door. Check out this video to see how they work. Door sensors While not a substitute for a good lock, door sensors help keep your family and belongings safe.
When the door is opened, they will trigger your alarm. And a sounding alarm can be enough to scare off some burglars because they don’t want attention called to what they’re doing. A Honeywell wireless door/window contact sensor Another way burglars break in through your sliding door is by physically lifting the door. Using a crowbar, burglars can actually lift up the door, move it off the tracks and out of the way. Well, this is how the door was put into the frame when it was made. The burglars are just reversing the process. With the exception of the security bars, all the options listed in the first section also work well to prevent thieves from just lifting the door out of its frame. Even with the best door lock and working door sensors a thief can still break in through your patio door simply by breaking the glass. “Won’t that make a lot of noise?” you might be thinking. Sure, but if you’re not home they’ll still get a bunch of stuff before anyone gets there. Plus, if they see something they really want and think they can get in and out quickly, they may simply smash the glass, grab it, and go—even if you’re home.
Glass is always going to be a weak point in your home’s security system. But here are some ways to strengthen it: Replace your door with an impact-resistant sliding door Many door and window companies make impact-resistant or “hurricane-proof” sliding doors that cannot be easily broken. However, they are expensive, heavy and difficult to install. Window film Security window film is a thin, protective sheet that can be applied to glass to make it more difficult to break through. It won’t make your sliding doors impenetrable. But it can make your home a more difficult target and give more time for authorities to get there, especially when paired with a glass-break sensor (below). Check out this video demonstration. Glass-break detectors Glass-break detectors will sound your security system’s alarm when glass is broken in your home. Just like with door sensors, a sounding alarm can be enough to scare off some burglars. In fact, in an interview, one former burglar said the mere presence of them was enough to make him go to the next home.
“When they see that glass break [sensor] attached to that window, they know that this is a well-secured home. Stay away from it." We suggest installing dual-tech glass-break detectors. A traditional acoustic glass-break detector senses the frequency of glass breaking and sounds your security system’s alarm. However, that can lead to false alarms if, let’s say, a glass vase drops. Dual-tech glass-break detectors combine acoustic glass-break technology with shock glass-break technology. That means the detectors must sense both the frequency of glass breaking and the shock against your window before setting an alarm off, reducing false alarms. A Honeywell dual-tech glassbreak detector Did you find this article helpful? Read our other articles on home security tips and tactics. Ackerman Security is dedicated to protecting you, your family, your home and your belongings. If you have any security-related questions ask one of our experts in the Atlanta, Philadelphia or DC-area.Step-by-step instructions for finishing wood windows and doors
Step one: prep the wood surface The wood surface may require light sanding to remove rough surfaces or construction residue Use 180-grit or finer sandpaper on a sanding block with an edger; sand with the grain; avoid touching the glass with the sandpaper Remove all sanding dust with a tac cloth before applying the finish Do not use steel wool: the fibers might get caught in the surface of the wood and rust when exposed to moisture Step two: clean the glass Remove sawdust, grease or caulking on the glass using a small amount of mineral spirits Clean the glass with a vinegar-based window cleaner (an easy recipe is one part white vinegar to one part water) Avoid ammonia-based cleaning products that can cloud the glass Avoid getting cleaning products on unfinished wood, which may discolor it Step three: apply the finish If your window or patio door has a removable interior glass panel, remove it according to the manufacturer’s instructions and finish the wood between the panes, in addition to the roomside wood;
make sure the finish has fully cured (according to the manufacturer’s instructions) before reinstalling the glass panel Avoid getting paint in the breather or weep holes* on the window sash or door panels, or any other finishing products on the weatherstripping or any vinyl parts, which may compromise performance If paint, stain or finish gets on the mohair weatherstripping, blot the weatherstripping thoroughly with a rag, allow it to dry, then flake off any residue with your fingernail On double-hung windows, do not paint, stain or finish the vertical sash edges (the wood part that slides up and down against the frame), which may cause the sash to stick On patio doors, finish all exposed door panel edges to reduce the probability of warping Applying a stained finish Pella strongly recommends the use of a good-quality prestain wood conditioner to reduce the possibility of a blotchy-looking or uneven finish Ask your paint professional to recommend a prestain wood conditioner, stain and exterior-grade finishing coat that are compatible
Apply the prestain conditioner according to the manufacturer’s instructions, then apply a good quality stain Finish by applying three coats of exterior-grade finishing coat, such as polyurethane Applying a painted interior finish The most important thing to look for when choosing your paint is good blocking resistance — the paint’s ability to resist sticking; failure to use a high-quality, nonblocking paint may result in a window or door that sticks shut even after the paint has dried Ask a qualified paint professional or nearby extension office to help you find a paint with good blocking resistance; a high-priced or name brand can of paint doesn’t necessarily mean good blocking resistance Ask your paint professional to recommend a wood primer and paint that are compatible, and if sanding is required between coats of paint Read and follow the manufacturer’s directions for using your finishing products Apply one coat of a quality wood primer
Apply two coats of a high-quality paint with good blocking resistance After finishing with paint, stain or clear coat, allow the windows or doors to cure completely — per the manufacturer’s directions — before closing them or reinstalling patio door panels or removable interior glass panels Finishing removable wood grilles Grilles should be removed before finishing and sanded lightly with 180-grit or finer finishing sandpaper; always sand with the grain Before you begin finishing, determine which side of the grille will face the room: the side that slides over the brass tack will face the exterior; the longer, tapered side will face the interior For a stained or natural finish, follow the same steps as the stained interior finish For a painted finish, use the same primer and paint as used for the interior and/or exterior of your windows or doors Be sure to finish the grille ends to help control potential condensation Paint wood exterior windows immediately after installation;
the factory-applied primer is not intended to last long Follow the steps for painting as instructed above; use two coats of a quality exterior trim paint Do not use wood stain or varnish — these finishes will not provide sufficient protection from the elements Finishing entry door systems Before finishing your entry door system, determine if it is premium steel, fiberglass (wood-grain or smooth-grain) or wood (some older entry door systems may still be made from wood) Failure to finish your entry system in a timely manner may void its warranty Wood-grain fiberglass doors may be gel-stained for a beautiful look of wood, or painted to complement the home’s exterior color Smooth-grain fiberglass doors must be painted, not stained; they are not factory-primed, because no priming is necessary Steel doors are usually factory-primed and can be painted, but not stained Exterior frames are usually primed wood or clad (aluminum or vinyl); If you paint your door panels, ask a qualified paint professional to recommend a quality paint with good blocking resistance;
failure to use a high-quality, nonblocking paint may result in a door that sticks shut even after the paint has dried Step one: prep the door panel and sidelights Gently wipe dust with a clean, dry cloth Examine the door panel and sidelights for possible smudges or fingerprints made from normal handling and remove with warm water, rubbing lightly to prevent damaging the surface; if necessary, clean the door with mild detergent, rinsing thoroughly, and let surfaces dry completely before applying finish Step two: apply the finish On a wood-grain fiberglass door, use gel stains only — not traditional wood stains Apply the gel stain and clear finish according to the manufacturer’s directions, always applying the stain in the direction of the wood grain; be sure to finish the door edges If you are painting a wood-grain fiberglass or steel door, sidelights and glazing frames, no priming is necessary Paint all exterior surfaces, including exposed door panel edges, promptly with two coats of quality exterior paint to help reduce the chance of warping;
don’t forget the top edge Paint all interior surfaces with two coats of quality interior paint Paint wood exterior doors immediately after installation; lightly sand if there are rough surfaces or construction residue; no primer is necessary; use a high-to-medium gloss quality exterior paint After finishing the entry door system, allow the door to dry completely in accordance with the paint manufacturer’s directions before closing it Step three: finish door and sidelight frames Paint the exterior wood frame immediately after installation; the exterior wood frames are usually factory-primed, but it is not intended for long-term exterior exposure If the exterior frame is clad with aluminum or vinyl, it doesn’t need painting; clean the surface with warm, soapy water; stubborn stains and deposits may be removed with mineral spirits; DO NOT use abrasives, tools or scrapers that might damage the surface Interior wood frames that are factory-primed should be cleaned (see cleaning instructions above) and painted promptly with two coats of quality interior paint
Interior wood frames that are not factory-primed may be stained; apply the stain and clear finish according to the manufacturer’s directions Failure to use the right type of paint will result in a window that sticks shut — even after the paint has dried Remember, aluminum-clad exterior windows, doors or patio doors need no painting or staining Staining is not recommended for wood or steel exteriors For painting the wood exterior on patio doors, follow the instructions listed above for wood exterior door painting In general, exterior window and door paint projects do not require a primer before painting When in doubt, follow the instructions provided by the paint or stain manufacturer or ask a qualified professional for help What’s the best buy for house paint or stains? Buyers beware — exterior house products can vary greatly in terms of endurance. Considering all the weather elements outdoor paints and stains are exposed to, it’s important to buy a product that’s designed to stand the test of time for window and door projects, at least four to five years.