Winter iceclimbing

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MCS AlexClimb iceclimbing courses

Classic form of winter outdoor iceclimbing as a kind of active entertainment and sport

So, what is winter iceclimbing?

Among extreme winter sports, classic iceclimbing have a special place due to its exoticism and entertainment. And, in general, there are quite a few people who can boast of truly interesting achievements in this sport.

To what extent iceclimbing in its classical form is a sport - that is an open question. The fact is that the sporting form of iceclimbing is not its best or beautiful form.

If we consider a sport to be an activity in which the goal of the process is to defeat an opponent in a competition, then it is unlikely that the most classic form of iceclimbing - climbing frozen waterfalls (cascades) will fit this definition.

For the sports iceclimbing competitions, special structures are built, like rockclimbing walls, with overhangs, roofs and special holds that ensure high complexity of competitive routes, which is practically impossible to achieve on the natural ice terrain.

Often, at the serious iceclimbing competitions, the routes lack even the most important element for iceclimbing - the ice, turning this exciting activity into climbing acrobatics using ice axes, crampons and other alpine climbing equipment. In this form, iceclimbing leaves the boundaries of its nature, turning into a specific technogenic activity, far from its original source.

It is almost impossible to achieve the difficulty required for iceclimbing as a sport on the frozen waterfalls. After all, the formation of cascades occurs in accordance with the laws of physics, and one should not expect any super complex tasks from the vertical ice.

Along with the complexity, which on the natural ice can only be achieved through overhangs and cornices, the ice becomes more dangerous. And unnecessary risk is not acceptable in any sports competitions.

Iceclimbing competitions which are held on the natural terrain, usually are of a local scale. The surface of a frozen waterfall have be specially marked in such a way that, for the athletes in addition to basic physical strength, ingenuity, dexterity and attention are also required.

Due to the lack of natural difficulty, various rules are introduced to increase the difficulty of the routes in sport iceclimbing, such as counting tool hits, time required for completing of the route, narrow corridors with a ban on going beyond.

But no matter what system is used to artificially increase the complexity of the iceclimbing route, it still does not bring it closer to the real classic form of iceclimbing.

Classic iceclimbing, like mountaineering, does not have any competitive context. When climbing the cascades, a person opposes himself to the elements of ice and competes exclusively with himself in endurance, dexterity of movements, and accuracy in choosing a route.

Classic iceclimbing is an immersion in the world of the frozen force of falling water, scattering in bright splashes with each hit of an ice ax. This is the ability to feel the ice in every blow of the instrument, hear the ringing of crystal columns and determine the direction of the next step by its tone. Iceclimbing is an art of tactics associated with the ability to perfectly control the body, feel and think over every centimeter of each move.

Winter ice climbing is a phenomenon quite typical for various mountain regions with developed alpine infrastructure. Many popular areas for iceclimbing are described in special seasonal guidebooks, which contain iceclimbing routes of various difficulty levels with a detailed description of the routes and approaches to them.

There are several of the most interesting locations in which we conduct our winter iceclimbing programs.

First, of course, this is Norway - the country of waterfalls. Iceclimbing areas in Norway are located almost everywhere, but their greatest concentration is in the northwestern part of the country, in the Buskerud district.

Also, iceclimbing is very popular in Great Britain, Austria, France, in the mountainous regions of North Italy and, of course, in the “cradle” of all mountain sports - in Switzerland.

Speaking about other continents, it should be noted that, for example, in the mountain regions of the United States, the popularity of iceclimbing as a winter sport is also quite high.

Every year more and more people become interested in iceclimbing. In just one area of Willoughby Lake in New Jersey (USA) there are more than 200 described iceclimbing routes of varying difficulty. In this area the number of iceclimbing routes may well compete with no less developed rockclimbing locations.

Fortunately, iceclimbing and rockclimbing do not overlap due to their seasonal characteristics and both can be practiced in their proper season!

The author of the iceclimbing programs, texts and photos - Alex Trubachev

MCS EDIT 2023