Which peppercorns are available?

Which peppercorns are available?

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(Paul Harrison)

A rainbow of peppercorns awaits grinding and sprinkling. Paul Harrison photographed.

Amazing pepper. It was one of the old spice trade's linchpins and a source of flavor-based conflict. We take it for granted. Even the trashiest eatery has a pepper shaker. Pepper is more than just those bland black specks. I adore diners, but not their pepper shakers. Let's improve our mills. Know about 10 Bests Peppercorns.

Little black granules are familiar. They're dried pepper vine fruit. Unripe berries are collected, boiled, and dried to make black pepper. Originally from southern India, this plant now spreads across the tropics. Depending on where it's grown, you'll get different types.

Tellicherry is the most popular kind. India's black peppercorns are bigger and have a more nuanced flavor. Malabar pepper comes from the same region as Tellicherry, although it's less mature and pungent. Sarawack (Malaysia), Lampong (Sumatra), Vietnamese (guess) and Talamanca are more variations (Ecuador, above right). Terroir, climate, and harvesting procedures all affect them.

After harvesting, the fruit is steeped in water to soften and remove the skins. Similar to black pepper but less pungent. They're typically used in cream sauces, mashed potatoes, and other light-colored dishes. Many white peppercorn cultivars share names and localities with black pepper.

Capsicum

These unripe fruits are air-dried, freeze-dried, or brined. Aromatic and fruitier than white or black pepper, but not as harsh and astringent. Original pepper for steak au poivre and other classic peppercorn sauces; brined green peppercorns are famous in French cuisine.

Peppercorns

The Peruvian (Schinus molle) or Brazilian pepper tree produces these (Schinus terebinthifolius). Milder, sweeter, and fruitier than black pepper. I've just started using pink pepper for both flavor and aesthetic purposes. These are more closely linked to cashews than normal black pepper (science! ), so beware if you have tree nut allergies. Note to risk-takers: These aren't FDA "GRAS"-approved.

Sichuan spice

These are fundamental to Chinese cuisine (and that of Nepal, Bhutan, and Tibet), especially the five-spice blend. They're unrelated to black, white, and green peppercorns, and their flavor is mild. It's citrusy and spicy, leaving your mouth tingling.

Pepperlong

Long pepper has a sweet-spicy aroma. This plant's edible portion is a flower spike covered in poppy-seed-sized fruit, not peppercorns. They're spicy like black pepper. In Indian, Nepalese, North African, Malaysian, and Indonesian recipes.

Panacea

These are not peppercorns but seeds from a ginger family plant, called Melegueta or "alligator" pepper. North and West African cuisine commonly uses peppery, lemony grains of paradise. It's used to flavor beer and drinks.