What Makes a Great Wave

The oceanographic account of what makes a great surfing wave

The Oceanography

The oceanographic account of what makes a great surfing wave -- the specific combination of the swell period, the swell direction, the seabed bathymetry, the wind, and the specific tidal phase that the great wave requires all simultaneously -- is the accountability journalism of the science that the surf forecast depends on.

The Science

The specific science: the swell period of 14 seconds or more that the longest-travelled swells whose energy concentration produces the specific power that the great wave carries; the seabed bathymetry that focuses the swell energy and shapes the breaking face; and the offshore wind that grooms the surface and holds up the breaking lip.

Surf LA Coverage

Surfing LA covers wave oceanography because the accountability journalism of the surf experience requires the scientific understanding that makes the specific conditions legible to the surfer whose relationship to the ocean deepens with the specific knowledge.

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