What Is Melasma And How To Get Rid Of It?

You're probably here to find a melasma treatment, but before we get there, we need to cover a few ground rules, specifically the distinctions between melasma and regular hyperpigmentation. First and foremost: Hyperpigmentation is a broad term that refers to a skin condition in which the skin is discoloured or darkened as a result of a variety of factors such as sun damage, acne scarring, and lingering inflammation from an eczema flare-up. So, what exactly is melasma? It's a type of the condition that is more common in women and is typically found on the face in areas such as the forehead, chin, and above the lip.

Melasma affects many women and is sometimes referred to as the 'pregnancy mask' because it appears during pregnancy due to the vast hormonal changes. Melasma, like general hyperpigmentation on the face, manifests as discoloration and is exacerbated by sun exposure. As a result, the question becomes, how can you tell if you have melasma?

Any darkening of the skin can be referred to as hyperpigmentation.

Post-blemish scarring from a stubborn breakout, freckles that grew into full-blown sun spots due to excessive exposure, or discoloration caused by a condition like eczema or psoriasis are all examples of hyperpigmentation.

This is due to the fact that acne, sunlight, skin rashes, and other similar factors have the potential to stimulate melanocytes, the pigment-producing cells in the skin, to produce an excess of pigment, causing them to dump their pigment into lower levels of the skin, such as tattoo pigment, where it does not belong.

Deeper pigment is more difficult to treat. To put it another way, a section of skin that has been consistently exposed to harmful UV rays without adequate protection will be more difficult to heal or treat than, say, a dark spot left over from a pimple that you've been careful to protect from the sun. In other words, the severity of hyperpigmentation varies, but if you notice discoloration on your skin that wasn't previously present, it's safe to assume it's hyperpigmentation. Of course, you should always consult your dermatologist to be sure.

What exactly is melasma?

Melasma is a type of hyperpigmentation that is more common in women (particularly those with darker skin tones) and is thought to be caused by both UV exposure and hormonal influences. The latter is what distinguishes it from traditional hyperpigmentation and makes it more difficult to treat.

As evidenced by the increased prevalence of pregnancy, oral contraceptive use, and other hormonal therapies, hormonal influences play a significant role here. The issue is preventing it from worsening, particularly from a hormonal standpoint, as removing the initiating factors can be difficult.

Melasma is usually detectable based solely on its appearance. It typically manifests as symmetric blotchy hyperpigmented patches on the face, most commonly on the cheeks, bridge of the nose, forehead, chin, and upper lip.

Melasma can appear on other parts of the body, particularly those more prone to sun exposure (such as the neck and forearms), and many people report that their melasma worsens in the summer and improves in the winter. It may also appear during pregnancy, after beginning birth control or other hormonal treatments, or after discontinuing them. Something to think about if you've noticed discoloration after changing your birth control or going through a hormonal change.

Finally, visible light and heat are two factors that can contribute to the spread of melasma. Using iron oxide makeup to help block out visible light. Unfortunately, avoiding infrared heat is more difficult because it can be produced simply by being in hot environments such as a steamy kitchen or even the gym.

Most pigmentation treatments are the same, but melasma is more difficult to remove.

Melasma, as previously stated, is difficult to treat. This is due to the fact that, unlike traditional hyperpigmentation, which responds to a variety of over-the-counter products containing brightening agents such as vitamin C, kojic acid, niacinamide, hydroquinone, and azelaic acid, melasma has not seen the same level of success or consistency.

Because what works for one person may not work for another, it is difficult to pinpoint a single treatment that is most effective for melasma. However, a combination of sunscreen, brightening ingredients, laser treatment, and chemical peels can provide effective relief.

The treatments for hyperpigmentation are nearly identical, with the exception that lower energy lasers can be useful in treating melasma. My personal favourite is the Clear + Brilliant laser, which, uses low energy fractionated beams to improve melasma, sun damage, and skin texture. The only catch? Multiple treatments will be required on a monthly basis, and then every six months thereafter to help maintain results.

All of this is to say that treatment is determined by the severity of your melasma. Everyone's experience will be different, and no treatment plan will be perfect or work the same way for everyone. So, whether you have persistent hyperpigmentation or melasma, consult with your dermatologist first to determine the best course of treatment.

Without sun protection, neither can be corrected or prevented.

We've emphasised the importance of diligent sunscreen use far too many times, but that's because it's the end-all-be-all when it comes to avoiding any sun-induced ailment. Melasma is also triggered by hormonal factors, but that doesn't mean you should skip the sunscreen, as UV rays continue to exacerbate the condition.

Applying SPF 30 or higher every two hours, even if you're just sitting near a window inside. It also doesn't hurt to double up on the protection with an SPF-containing moisturiser — here are some of our favourites, in case you're interested.