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We recently spent three weeks between Nairobi, parts of eastern Kenya, Rwanda and even one night in Uganda. There is no magic to being vegan in Kenya or Rwanda. It is easy. Many of the traditional foods are vegan and in every town there will be a market where to purchase grains, beans and seasonal fruit and vegetables. Even small roadside stalls will sell excess produce from the family plot. Some foods and dishes are found in both Kenya and Rwanda and much of East Africa , but they may have different names in because of language differences. The places where we found the most relative difficulty in terms of getting good and varied vegan options were hotels in Rwanda that catered primarily to American guests. Breakfast options in these places were limited to buffets where gluten-free bread was available, but nothing else was labelled with ingredients and the only safe bet was fruit and brown bread, which is fine, of course. We did not have any such problems in Kenya or Bakiga Lodge where we stayed in Uganda. The coffee in Rwanda is invariably excellent, which is an unusual occurrence in our experience travelling in countries that produce and export coffee. In Kenya, however, it is not good; there, we much prefer our instant Starbucks dark roast that we bring with us. This piece is not an exhaustive list of vegan foods available in East Africa or elsewhere on the continent. Three weeks anywhere does not make anyone an expert in that food or culture. This is merely a starting point. We would have liked to have found a blog post like this when we were doing food research. We hope this is helpful to the next traveller and that if you have additions, you will let us know. Big thanks to Hash for a list of traditionally vegan items for Kenya and to Clare for putting us in touch. His list was a great start and helped us with letting people understand that we liked and wanted traditional foods. While that is a perfectly acceptable choice and sometimes the only choice pizza in Watamu on our first night, for example , we generally opt for the dizzying array of fresh and local produce whenever possible. Somewhat anaemic pizza in Watamu, Kenya, and it was perfectly edible. The staples in Kenya are ugali, corn, millet, sorghum and a variety of leafy greens. Fresh fruit such as mangoes, avocados, bananas sweet and savoury , papayas, passion fruit and more are readily available. Our introduction to what became one of our go-to dishes of beans with leafy greens and chapattis was at the rooftop restaurant of the New Mahrus Hotel in Lamu Old Tow, on Lamu Island. The chapattis were heavenly wherever we went and we never said no to them. The thick, water-based smoothies of fresh mango or avocado the latter, a first-time for us were life-giving. In both countries, there are many ways to make a curry. At the Tamarind Cafe, located on the waterfront, towards the end of town, the proprietress had no problem understanding that we wanted a dish with no animal products. She made us this off-menu potato curry, in an onion and tomato based sauce and paired it with a simple and delicious ugali of white maize. It was outstanding, as were the fresh tamarind and passion fruit juices. No need for a recipe. Just chop things up and cook them together, keeping in mind to first put in the saucepan those vegetables that take longer to cook, like ginger, onions and aubergines and then add the greens. Did you know that there are many varieties of bananas? Some are sweet and some are savoury. Bananas originated somewhere in Asia and have become a global staple. Bananas are even used to make beer more on that in the Rwanda section. In East Africa, green bananas are stewed into a savoury dish called matoke. The texture is more like potato than a sweet banana so it is perfect to mix with onions and peppers. The bean dish is called maharagwe and it is traditionally made with red beans, tomatoes and coconut milk. Put a side of rice, a chapatti or six… and sukuma wiki and you have a meal that is super filling, delicious and healthy. Maharagwe, rice, chapatti, sukuma wiki and matoke. When we arrived, as usual, we had a quick word with whoever will listen about vegan requirements. Our waiter, Derick, listened and wasted no time in getting the chef to make sure everyone understood what we needed. The conversation lasted less than five minutes and it was all no problem. We ended up eating very good traditional Kenyan food, specially prepared for us, while the other guest ate the same old Western fare. We were extremely well looked after. The mukimo was simple and delicious. Another classic Kenyan dish is githeri. This is made with any variety of beans, corn or carrots whatever you have on hand cooked in a tomato-based sauce that is either on the thick side or is thinned out to be soupier. At Satao Camp, they prepared it with sukuma wiki and rice. Two important asides: 1 At this truck stop, our guide asked us why we were vegan. We then asked him what the difference was — in themselves — between those animals in the bush and the animals on his plate. He replied that there was no difference and that they all want to live. To which we replied that that was precisely the reason we were vegan. His immediate response? It makes sense to me. There is no difference. But, this conversation took no longer than a couple of minutes and, as we were his first ever vegans, this was good seed for thought. These types of conversations can happen anywhere and with anyone. We owe it to the animals and ourselves for the planet, for the exploited, basically for all! We sent them a definition, the Swahili page from Vegan Passport and a number of the dishes from the list above so they could have a practical idea. They then made sure we had plenty of delicious vegan food during our activities. A little planning and communication go a very long way. Back to food… Breakfast could not be simpler or sweeter. There are many fruit available and the small bananas are particularly excellent. Also, sweet potatoes are great cold if you have any leftover from the night before and perfect mixed with mangoes and avocados. He told us that when he goes home to his village, his preferred breakfast is yams and sweet potatoes. Traditional village breakfast of sweet potatoes and yams. And for more banana goodness, check these out. They were unputdownable. We did not explore desserts much because the fruit was so tasty and that sufficed. But there are fried, sweet dumplings called kaimati that can be made vegan and Satao Camp kindly made those for us. The food in Rwanda is not radically dissimilar from that in Kenya. Avocados, papayas, mangoes and pineapple are readily available all over the country. Also, there are some dishes in common with Kenya and generally with East Africa. However, because Swahili is only one of the languages spoken in Rwanda, the list at the beginning of this piece will only be partially helpful. One thing that is common to each of Rwanda, Uganda and Kenya is chapattis. Obviously, everyone loves them. We were pleased to learn this. We heard from some that Rwandan food is dull and that ugali is unappetising. We disagree with that assessment. We found it to be tasty, satisfying and healthful. Ugali in all its forms is fantastic. We believe that a bit of a perspective helps when eating food that is unfamiliar. It is true that sometimes in Rwanda dishes were simply prepared. For example, boiled green bananas or potatoes were just that. There was no added salt or pepper or sauce these are available on tables in cafes and restaurants. We accept that that seems dull, perhaps. Nevertheless, it is also a good way to learn to properly taste these foods, to really understand and register what it is that they taste like. It is a wonderful opportunity to learn that food does not need to be seasoned or sauced to be tasty and to begin to understand how another lives or how they might view our over-seasoned foods that are often drowning in sauce or oil. Another best part was discovering brown ugali which is a combination of maize, millet and cassava flours although sometimes only maize and one of the two flours. Unlike its white counterpart that is a bit crumbly and grainier in texture, brown ugali must be cut with a knife, is gummy, chewy and dense. It is almost like mochi in consistency and has a nutty flavour. It pairs exceptionally well with tomato-based sauces because it picks up all the flavour nuances adding its nutty note. Isombe or sombe, pounded cassava leaves with aubergines, tomatoes and onions and a side of brown ugali, Gisenyi, Rwanda. Unsurprisingly because it is a concentrated puree of leaves, the plain or cassava leaves only sombe has a strong, but pleasant and earthy flavour. Vegetable curry was another go-to dish for us in Rwanda, like it was in Kenya. Curries are made in many ways with whatever vegetables are available, plus spices and coconut milk. Generally, you may expect a side of rice or ugali white and some potatoes. Rwandans love their potatoes. They are the second most important crop in the country after bananas. They were introduced by the German colonisers and they are referred to as Irish potatoes because the plants were originally from Ireland. Simple and straightforward meals are the standard in villages. For example, outside Nyungwe Forest, there is a good cafe called Keza Nyungwe, serving a vegetable soup tomato with ibiharage fried beans , a mix of leafy green vegetables, onions and carrots, rice and boiled green banana. It was delicious, filling and we felt great afterwards. This poorly lit photo contains a good selection of some of the classic Rwandan dishes listed above. A selection of traditional Rwandan dishes at Republika in Kigali. One of the condiments that we saw on every table in Rwanda was Akabanga chili oil. It is made in Rwanda and comes in a bottle with an eye dropper top, but under no circumstances should anyone mix this up in their medicine cabinet. This is seriously spicy oil made from a secret blend of fiery chilis. Akabanga, literally little secret, chili oil. A final thought must go to banana beer, urwagwa, as it is called in Rwanda, but can be found all over East Africa. It is brewed by fermenting mashed bananas and adding sorghum, millet or maize as the yeast component. This, I suppose, makes it stronger than any old beer. It has a very unusual taste, somewhat sweet, but not like banana. Kenya and Rwanda are wonderful places to visit. If you are visiting them to experience the wildlife and you are not vegan, think about whether there are any morally relevant differences between the wild animals that you want to see alive and thriving and the animals we condemn to death so we can exploit their bodies and reproductive secretions. They all want to live and our tastebuds, vanity and convenience are not a good reason to kill or exploit any animal. We can be vegan anywhere. And if you are heading to Zambia, then click here for Vegan in Zambia. Very interesting to read of your experiences on your journey. If only the vegan and animal rights message is central! This was a great read! Loved all the pictures and the lists!! Thank you for sharing. Vegan dining in Kenya and Rwanda exceeded my expectations! Diverse options, rich flavors, and warm hospitality created a culinary adventure. Highly recommend for anyone seeking delicious plant-based meals! Your email address will not be published. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Get Email Updates. Maharagwe, sukuma wiki and chapatti Thick avocado and mango smoothies water-based. Muchicha stew with sweet potatoes. Mukimo with muboora. Mango, avocado and sweet potato Melon, papaya, mango, Japanese plum, small bananas and passion fruit. Vegetable curry in Gisenyi, Rwanda. Urwagwa at Heaven in Kigali. It's About The Conversations ». Comments Very interesting to read of your experiences on your journey. Thank you so much for reading and commenting, Trudi. I appreciate it. And Yes. Very interesting. I will be in Kenya in December. Have a wonderful trip! I hope this piece comes in handy. I really liked your article. Thank you. Photo is super, the food looks very appetizing! Thank you, Tori! I appreciate your reading and commenting. Thank you so much for reading and commenting! Oh excellent! Glad you had the same experience as we did and thanks for commenting. Leave a Reply Cancel reply Your email address will not be published. Footer Guyana day 11 to we continue to travel south a. Birthday boy bonus content! TW: nice pics of trees. Guyana bonus animals only post: 1 capuchin monkey. Guyana day Iwokrama to Ruppununi: There are. Day 6 Guyana: From Iwokrama we move 25 miles or s. Guyana day 4 and 5: we left Georgetown on a courie. Follow Emi. Leese on Instagram.
Half a day in Watamu, Kenya
Watamu buying hash
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