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Volos buy snow
B ack in the s, in the early days of Greek island-hopping, locals made a few extra drachmas by putting up backpackers in their own homes. Along with the family photos and an icon or two, there would inevitably be a picture of a waterfall, tumbling through a ferny forest, or a snowy mountain — the places to which the islanders would travel in their imaginations during their hot, arid summers. Often this dream scene would be of 1,m-high Mount Pelion, trailing its long, steep, hook-shaped peninsula into the Aegean Sea. We like to dream of sun-baked islands; the Greeks fantasise about bucolic woodlands, lush with springs and little waterfalls, and orchards heavy with fruit and criss-crossed by cobbled kalderimi ancient mule paths and mossy stone bridges where the quick of eye might spot the goaty god Pan flitting through the shadows. This is the Pelion. In the gigantomachy — the gods-versus-giants war that the ancients loved to sculpt on their temples — Pelion was the mountain the giants piled on Ossa to scale Mount Olympus. The peninsula was the home of the centaurs, ruled by the wise Chiron, who taught Asclepius, the god of medicine, Jason of Argonaut fame and Achilles. Tendrils of mist curl up from gurgling streams; fog, something they hardly ever see in the cities, adds a veil of mystery. And when the sun breaks through, as it always does, the silvery slate-roof slabs of the houses and the cobbled mule paths glisten and glitter. Most of all, winter visitors hope for snow. And there are times, usually in January and February, when the whole peninsula is covered with snow, silent and pure. The olive trees always look surprised, their twigs weighed down with mini snowballs. It never lasts long near the coast, but it lingers in the memory, especially when the sun peeks through and the Aegean goes deep sapphire blue, separated from the snowbound beaches by a band of wet sand, and a hush falls over the forests of beech, plane, and horse chestnut trees. At such times, the only sounds are your boots crunching in the snow, and your breath. These just happen to be some of the most beautiful in Greece, with houses scattered amid gardens, arranged in amphitheatres on either side of the steep peninsula overlooking the sea or the gulf. Nearly all have a beautiful stone-flagged square as the vortex of social life, nearly all with a pretty late-Byzantine church and an enormous plane tree or two. But come in the winter and, in the twilight shadows, their massive trunks and limbs resemble those infamous mountain-stacking giants. Tsagarada, one of the prettiest villages, is especially known for them; the one growing in front of the church of Agia Paraskevi measures 50ft around. The classic Pelion house is what the Greeks call an archontiko , or mansion. The classic archontiko has a thick pale-grey stone ground floor and overhanging second and third floors with wooden ceilings and floors and a fireplace designed to be snug in the winter. Cosy is the key word. But like everyone in the world, Greeks crave cosy, especially city dwellers who live in apartments with marble or tiled floors designed for staying cool in summer. Dozens of the archontiki have been converted into small inns, many with suites and apartments for families or friends. After an afternoon on the ski slopes or a walk along one of the kalderimi — perhaps the three-mile Path of the Centaurs from Portaria, near Makrinitsa — return to the hotel as darkness falls, putting your feet up by a crackling blaze and sipping a steaming rakomelo , the Greek version of a hot toddy made with tsipouro, honey, a cinnamon stick and cloves. On weekends, when people drive up from Volos, Thessaloniki and even Athens and the tavernas are full and the mood is right, a spontaneous party might erupt. And then, emerging from the warmth and bonhomie into the crisp winter night, the stars blaze like fire. An exceptional homemade Greek breakfast is part of the deal, and the bar serves light meals if you just want to cuddle by the fire at night. Cosy and warm hospitality reign supreme in this family-run archontiko overlooking the Aegean, surrounded by peaceful woods and gardens. The seven bedrooms are huge by Pelion standards, and all are in the traditional style, with fireplaces, sofas, hardwood floors and ceilings. The nearest taverna is a minute walk. There are seven cosy, woodsy rooms in this traditional-style archontiko isolated at the very top of Makrinitsa 1,m , where snow is almost guaranteed. Each room comes with a stone fireplace ready to light and spectacular eagle-eye views over Volos and the sea. The lobby bar has tea and coffee and wine and board games; a ten-minute walk will take you down to Makrinitsa Square where you can find breakfast and dinner. Follow Times Travel on Instagram and Twitter. You must update your payment details via My Account or by clicking update payment details to keep your subscription. Update payment details. We've tried to contact you several times as we haven't been able to take payment. You must update your payment details via My Account, otherwise your subscription will terminate. Accessibility Links Skip to content. Login Subscribe. Log in Subscribe. Makrinitsa village on Mount Pelion. Dana Facaros. Sunday January 09 , Snow on Pelion. A mountain village in Pelion. A hearty bowl of spetsofai. Sakali Mansion, Pinaketes. Related articles. A coastal castle crawl of Rhodes. January 09 , Juliet Rix. The secret Greek island just a hop from Santorini. Heidi Fuller-Love. Bettany Hughes.
Why Greeks love the Pelion in winter
Volos buy snow
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Volos buy snow
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