Vintage Shops

Vintage Shops

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The 25 Best Vintage Stores in America
Because the best way to dress like Steve McQueen, Miles Davis, or Kurt Cobain is to mix in second-hand clothes from the eras when those icons actually lived
Photo: Courtesy of Melet Mercantile
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Photo: Courtesy of Red Light Clothing Exchange
69 Excellent Gift Ideas to Spoil All the Deserving Guys Out There
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Photo: Courtesy of Ye Olde General Store
Photo: Courtesy of Stefan's Vintage Clothing
69 Excellent Gift Ideas to Spoil All the Deserving Guys Out There
10 Habits That Are Making You Look Older
Photo: Courtesy of St. Vincent de Paul
69 Excellent Gift Ideas to Spoil All the Deserving Guys Out There
10 Habits That Are Making You Look Older
Photo: Courtesy of Circa Vintage Wear
69 Excellent Gift Ideas to Spoil All the Deserving Guys Out There
10 Habits That Are Making You Look Older
Photo: Courtesy of What Goes Around Comes Around
69 Excellent Gift Ideas to Spoil All the Deserving Guys Out There
10 Habits That Are Making You Look Older
Photo: Courtesy of Collectors Corner
69 Excellent Gift Ideas to Spoil All the Deserving Guys Out There
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This cavernous showroom in the L.A. flats is a Wonka Factory of vintage menswear, with Frenchman Christophe Loiron as its visionary overlord. Both overwhelming and inviting, the store showcases Loiron's curatorial eye for just about every category, from Turnbull and Asser dress shirts to marled wool sweaters to skirted work boots that look like Laura Ingalls Wilder's pa just set 'em aside. Loiron himself is a spiky Frenchman with a soft spot for America, and a looming presence-his workroom is on a riser by the rafters. Up there he cuts patterns and stitches together romantic recreations of tug-captain coats and snug-fitting watchcaps. Check out his bomber jacket, with the crazy clasps and crinkly lining!
7161 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, CA; 323-653-2014; www.misterfreedom.com
It's impossible to ignore the impact that RRL has had in making spectacular new clothes that fit better than the spectacular old ones that inspired them. (You have to just go with the fact that the tears and repairs are manufactured.) Each boutique is its own eclectic time capsule-you might want to actually move into the one in East Hampton, and Travis Harrison, manager of L.A.'s new converted mechanic shop on Melrose, is a local hero. At any location, there are always superb vintage specimens on display-a Belstaff Trialmaster coat, a silver-and-turquoise bangle, a Coast Guard sweatshirt by Champion-and these hard-to-finds are actually for sale. Not "on sale," mind you: They're museum quality and priced for collectors. But try one on for size and you'll feel like McQueen for an instant.
This East Village storefront displays leather jackets (try a 1920s horsehide specimen), logger boots, and Little League tees from simpler times. Meanwhile, owner Melissa Howard rules the store like Wendy, reuniting her Lost Boys with the worn-in, reverse-weave sweatshirts of their youth. By the register, a stack of flea-market-found bandanas look like they could have wiped the brows of real-life Rooster Cogburns. And she's got killer rows of lace-ups-with the perfect wood floors to stomp on while trying them on for size. Her place is rich with good stuff but free of dustmites, tiny without being twee.
143 East 13th St., New York, NY; 212-505-2505
Designer's Pick: Eunice Lee of Unis on Melet Mercantile
Manhattan-based menswear designer Eunice Lee is a champion scout for guy-related dry goods—try to keep up with her at the Rose Bowl flea market as she loads up on military jackets, horse blankets and old-school North Face. So when she found out that Bob Melet, a specialty vintage dealer, opened a store on Long Island's easternmost enclave, she found things she loves all in one place. "He had a little Hawaiian story going," she said, noting how she was wowed by Melet's mix of touristy tees from summery hotspots mid in with tiki-related trappings that brought legends of the longboard back to life.
102 Industrial Rd., Montauk, NY; 631-668-9080
Bobby Garnett has created a Beantown mecca, and major-label designers have made the pilgrimage for years. Of course, there are heaps of Levi's to try on and, for those willing to mix brass buttons and epaulets with their jeans and tees, a full inventory of military coats. Garnett's stock is a good reminder that wearing something old need not mean wearing something ironically downtrodden. Sure, beardsters can studiously slum it in his workwear options, but there are also gentlemanly suits that can transform a customer from ratty to natty in no time.
19 Thayer St., Boston, MA; 617-423-9299
A store situated at the corner of Elizabeth and Prince is figuratively at the intersection of Sex and Cool. (Down the block, Prince and Mercer is where Sex crosses Money.) Eleven capitalizes by peddling rugged flannel shirts and tricolor British scarves to any hipster who might feel a little too head-to-toe on-trend. There are a few new, old-looking items, like Billykirk wallets, and-even better-old, new-looking items, such as dozens of dead-stock low-top canvas shoes. Bonus: Stellar American flags for sale in the back, for any blank wall or curtain-less window.
15 Prince St., New York, NY; 212-334-5334
Southern vintage stores often cater to guys with a rockabilly bent: Think white Aero shirts, skinny ties with clips. All of the above are available in this urbane antidote to the usual haggard Opryland vibe that dominates Nashville. The wares are more cufflinks and long silk scarves than any Nudie-suited or Waylon-and-Willie get-ups. Added bonus: The girls who shop and sell in this emporium. (Jack White's supermodel wife Karen Elson is an owner, and Aimee Mann is a regular customer.)
2009 Belmont Blvd., Nashville, TN; 615-915-4846
Welcome to the House of Grunge, where the brainy youth of the rainy Northwest have long shopped to get their Cobain on. (That can mean a Kurt-worthy yellow, fuzzy cardigan to squire around your own baby-doll-dressed riot grrrl in.) The Portland place has two big, high-ceilinged rooms, with full-size mannequins tricked out like Gus Van Sant extras: Western snap-ups, vibrant flannels, blank expressions. The racks are messy, but the clerks have higher standards than the usual swap-meet free-for-all of any college-town Buffalo Exchange.
3590 SE Hawthorne Blvd., Portland, OR; 503-963-8888; www.redlightclothingexchange.com
Designer's Pick: Billy Reid on Ye Olde General Store
The father of three, weekend angler and purveyor of head-to-toe Southern duds, Reid goes no further than a few blocks from his brand's headquarters to find old styles to admire. Ye Olde General Store, he reports, "has been there since the '40s, and much has stayed pure to its roots." It's impossible not be drawn in by untouched-by-time signage that hawks "Wicker, Sewing Notions, Work and Play clothes, Beaver Hats, Novelties, Gifts." Inside Reid routinely stacks up deadstock longjohns, Pointer hunting caps, leather work gloves, LaCrosse boots and maybe some safety-orange sox. Oh, wait, and also a skillet. Mr. Gordon O. Glasscock, proprietor, is kindly and patient, and expects patience in return, whether the customer is a hunter buying waders or an Allman Brother buying a buck knife.
219 N Seminary St., Florence, AL; 256-764-0601
Atlanta's Little Five Points gets humble castoffs from Southern good ol' boys, and the city's moneyed history means there's formalwear mid in with the workwear. That means: Neiman Marcus tudos hanging near Big Mac chambrays. The owners appreciate cool but banish the typical (and always annoying) 'tude of vintage stores. On a recent visit, a customer who needed the priced break of previously-owned clothes was granted the same respect as a visiting dignitary, CNN's Don Lemon—the best dresser in network news.
1160 Euclid Ave. NE, Atlanta, GA; 404-688-4929; www.stefansvintageclothing.com
A lot of army/navy stores these days are basically glorified workwear shops. This place has all that-Dickies, Carhartt, a butt-kicker's selection of work boots-but the thing that sets Miller's apart is their Rambo-ready selection of overstocked military gear. Hanging on the walls, racks, and ceilings are indestructible and hard-to-find bags, jackets, sweaters, and belts, plus "Don't Tread On Me" bandanas, hateful bumper stickers, and an army surplus of F-you attitude. Hell, the place's tagline is "The World's Greatest Store." Could be true.
406 N. 6th Ave., Tucson, AZ; 520-622-4777
Houston has all the ingredients for a great vintage city: booming colleges, frontier history, rich families. That translates into the dead-on T-shirt taste shared by the buyers at this small boutique in the arty part of town. On the racks are shirts that hail a boarding-school sports team (an orange practice jersey from St. Mark's in Dallas!), an acquaintance with ski slopes (Aspen horizon across the chest of one, Descente logo up the sleeve of another), and a requisite rebellious flirtation with noise (Suicidal Tendencies, Buzzcocks, and Television). And their racks of western snap-ups showcase the knowing, cool-kid electicism of hometown hero Wes Anderson, through the store's appreciation of Lone Star goodness as well as the wide world outside it.
1637 Westheimer Rd., Houston, TX; 713-524-9100
Designer's Pick: Scott Sternberg of Band of Outsiders on St. Vincent de Paul Thrift Store
Sternberg moved to the American vintage capital of Los Angeles long ago and travels often to Tokyo, the global capital for made-in-USA appreciation, but whenever he visits his folks in central Buckeye land, he checks out the circuit of old-world cast-offs, the likes of which he has found nowhere else. His suits and shirts and ties have long tapped into the Douglas Sirk splendor, years before Mad Men rakishness grew rabid. And he has found many samples that he recreates in a more fitted retro fit, sometimes he finds something perfect for himself. "I found a 1960s J.C. Penney Towncraft Balmacaan coat that is perfection and actually fits me, which is rarely the case," Sternberg says. "Plus a stockpile of Rooster ties from the '60s and early-'70s that are strange and amazing."
945 S Edwin C Moses Blvd., Dayton, OH; 937-222-5555
The so-called Live Music Capital of the U.S. has many venues in which one must walk the line, Johnny Cash-style, between honky-tonker and Butthole Surfer. This outpost on the South side of town is for the boyfriends of the owners and clients of Bohemia, the Texas capital's best vintage store for girls, and there are predictably over-caffeinated slackers flipping through the racks of Op [Ocean Pacific] tees, Levi's 517s, and well-creased leather blazers, as well as some David Allen Coe types trying on Tony Lama and Justin boots for nights of two-steppin' and shit-kickin'.
2209 South 1st St. # D, Austin, TX; 512-804-0988
Anyone interested in nautical gear will walk through the door and feel that their ship has come in. This hidden haven for New England seafarers and "Deadliest Catch" fans is untrammeled and unfussy. The stash of industrial furniture and seafaring garb tilts toward the rugged: peacoats and insulated shackets. Watch out for his collection of blanket-lined coats, especially the original Madewell brand, of late retrofitted by J.Crew. Think of them as rescued from the attics of lost-at-sea salty dogs.
73 Cove St., New Bedford, MA; 508-997-9390
One generation of cool kids left their hearts and their Levi's in San Francisco, and, at this former theater in the Haight, newcomers pick up where (and what) previous rebels left off. The former Vaudeville house is cleaner than the patchouli-meets-mothball vibe of other Bay Area hippie recycling centers. Instead, you'll find the spirit of the 1849 boom that made San Francisco the place where gold-diggers could blow their winnings-on Levi's. That enduring hometown brand was favored by the Haight hippies, but their tie-dyes aren't really selling anymore; instead, young shoppers have gone earlier than age of Aquarius, favoring military parkas from World War II G.I. Joes, as well as some special wool olive Army shirts with Bakelite buttons.
660 Haight St., San Francisco, CA; 415-863-3150; www.wastelandclothing.com
It's hard to know which collection in the ginormous L.A. emporium is better: the vintage racks of wide-wale cord jackets and plaid flannels or the women who are trying on the menswear for their own mumblecore-goddess purposes. This is a full-on fashion store, with Comme des Garîons wallets and all manner of raw denim, but the store's cred-bestowing appeal derives from the major square footage dedicated to old-school stock. (Timberlake vests! Bjorn Borg Fila gear! Shawl-collar cardigans a la The Dude!)
Smack dab in the zone where American Idol wannabes stock up on Ed Hardy is this time-capsule ode to a simpler sartorial time. Yes, there are Levi's; and yes, Lee's too-but also Boss of the Road, Hercules, and other alpha-male brands. Same goes for work shirts: the Big Mac, Big Smith, Big Yank labels are all available for big lugs. And if you're not proving so full-figured, and you want a little tapering, a little shortening, a little custom-restitching to fit your particular frame? Alterations can be left to Chuck's encouraging experts.
7515 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, CA; 323-653-5386; www.chucksvintage.com
There's no place in America that better understands the value of made-in-the-U.S.A. goods. Unfortunately, that connoisseurship is reflected in most of the price tags in this superstore, which mis in its own vintage-inspired label. If arriving with a wad of burnable cash, there are options: maybe a perfect U.S. Navy watchcap or a super-thin leather belt in a perfect shade of amber. There are military coats that deserve a full salute, and shearlings that make you wanna go the full Jeremiah Johnson. Expect to fall hard for such one-of-a-kind items, but expect to blow a mortgage payment to walk out with just a few of them.
351 W Broadway, New York, NY; 212-343-1225 and 1520 N. Cahuenga Blvd., Los Angelens, CA; 323-836-0252; www.whatgoesaroundnyc.com
A North Beach emporium that has just about every sartorial artifact of American manhood: berets worn by Beat coffee-housers, Carhartt canvas pants, Rockmount western shirts, and good old 501s. The joint is long and narrow, but the expertise therein is wide and deep, with vendors ready and willing to explain, say, the color fade pattern of a Pendleton shadow plaid shirt. Native sons come by looking for Derby jackets-bruise-colored, no-collared, cotton-poly, quilted-weatherproof numbers. A local manufacturer made the jackets decades ago to keep men of the city's wheels-squealing Bullitt era warm and dry.
1412 Grant Ave., San Francisco, CA; 415-392-1522
Designer's Pick: Jay Carroll of Levi's/One Trip Pass on Salvation Army
Once a Rogues Gallery roughneck, Jay Carroll went west for a new life, but brought with him to San Fran the fun, functional gear that he stocked up on back home in Maine. "There's so much in the Portland thrift world that it makes my head hurt," he says, recalling visions of knee-high L.L. Bean boots, not to mention Hudson Bay blanket coats, lobster ties and, if lucky, a fly-fishing basket-one of those ancient over-the-shoulder jobbies that sits on your hip like a messenger bag in wicker. Happily the stuff wears-and travels-well, and Carroll notes black-watch plaid flannels look and feel as good in Muir Woods as they did in the Pine Tree State.
30 Warren Ave., Portland, ME; 207-878-8555
Southern dudes did it up for decades, and their finery-tailored suits and coats from bygone haberdasheries like Godchaux's and Perlis-are collected in this trove on Magazine St.. If it's a little hard for you to breathe in the swampy Delta soup, at least the fabrics can. Owner Joe Weise is proud of his inventory of linen and seersucker suits that are more Walker Percy's The Moviegoer than Andy Griffith's Matlock. Happily, it's not just the gentlemen in search of ruby cufflinks for Mardi Gras balls who are combing through his wares. Straw panamas made by Meyer the Hatter in the Kingfish era are getting snapped up and mid with jeans and maybe some wire-rimmed specs by the city's young post-Katrina pioneers.
5414 Magazine St., New Orleans, LA; 504-895-5054
Designer's Pick: Paul Marlow of Loden Dager on Collectors Corner
A driving force in the Loden Dager collective, Marlow used to source fabrics in Turkey and zippers in Germany when working for Marc Jacobs. For his own projects, he time-travels to the California desert, where he finds it's the end of the road for Hope and Crosby types who ride into the sunset in golf carts, leaving perfectly tailored topcoats (Burberry! velvet collar! midweight cashmere!) and three-piece suits behind. "The first thing men do when they move to Palm Springs seems to be to ditch their winter clothes," Marlow explains, and he has found this massive and bright charity store, benefiting the Eisenhower Medical Center, was the final resting place for a Russian mink hat. Marlow exhumed it for 35 bucks and for bike rides around Manhattan, and notes that it's not just cold weather gear these gents leave behind, but also perfect Fred Perry tennis whites, Penguin and Munsingwear golf get-ups, and good neckwear, ranging from black bowties with white polka dots to ranch-ready bolos with knobby turquoise sliders.
71280 Highway 111, Rancho Mirage, CA; 760-346-1012
In the Guyville zone that Liz Phair once prowled, Pendleton plaids and jean jackets are part of the local look, and available for rock-show slouching. But here's also a place to get outfitted for the open road, for Harley and Ducati riders alike, or for the rockers who pledge stylistic allegiance to them. Black leather jackets and boots are the store's specialty, and a stock of Schott outerwear is ready for any broad-shouldered client. Attention, serious collectors: Look to the upper racks for big-collared Hawaiian shirts from the '40s. Attention, hipsters: Stock up on the John Hughes generation's varsity jackets, with big-patched leather sleeves, as well as satiny Michael Jordan-era Starter jackets.
1460 North Milwaukee Ave., Chicago, IL; 773-489-9428
Indie rockers cover the landscape in this southern part of heaven as thoroughly as kudzu, and this boutique has been a pre-gig stop for alt-musicians along a superchunky 30-year continuum. Let's say a dude wants to take his lady for a quarry sw
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