Vintage Lingerie Girdles
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1940s Lingerie - Bra, Girdle , Slips, Underwear History
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Vintage Dancer | 1940s Fashion | 1940s Lingerie- Bra, Girdle, Slips, Underwear History
We are Debbie and Oscar, your guides to dressing up like decades past. We are here to help you find clothing online and learn about vintage fashions as worn by everyday people, just like you. Need help with your outfit? Ask us anytime.
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“Correct posture with the correct foundation garment combine to give a woman an attractive figure and will aid her in her quest for health and vitality.” Foundations for Fashion , 1948
When people think of lingerie in the 1940s, what usually comes to mind are the glamorous, curvy, satin and lace pin-up girls whose pictures filled the magazines popular with lonely soldiers overseas. Beautiful women posed provocatively in corsets, nightgowns and swimsuits with a look that remains iconic today.
The reality, however, was quite different. Women back home were not lounging around in fancy, restrictive undergarments. They were out enjoying a new freedom working and being active outside. Because of wartime shortages in materials, they also enjoyed a new freedom in their undergarments.
In the 1930s, women were still wearing metal-boned corsets. New technology soon allowed for girdles to take their place, although corsets continued to be worn in the ’30s. New two-way stretch elastic fabrics were fashioned into snug-fitting, full-body girdles that smoothed every lump and bump. The ’30s full-body version of the girdle included a bra top that was attached to a very short skirt with elasticized straps with metal fasteners to attach to silk stockings (remember, up until the ’60s, stockings were worn without a top – they came up to mid thigh and had to be held up). Bras weren’t very advanced – cup sizes were invented in 1935 and the first underwire bra came out in 1938. In the late 1930s, the rubber girdle came out. It really was made out of rubber – yes, rubber – and was covered in ‘breathing’ holes.
Simple cotton knit panties and tops for “working women”
The war affected undergarments just as much as it affected all other aspects of dress. Production of the new rubber girdles came to a halt because rubber was needed for the war. The same went for corsets, as the steel used for the boning was needed. This ended up being an advantage for women who required more flexibility and movement with their new lifestyles.
While 1940s girdles and corsets look confining to our modern eyes, the purpose was described as follows: “rather than actually constricting the body to meet fashion’s demands for a nipped-in waistline, a molded hipline, via too-tight corsetry, slimming and indentation is created through ingenious designing devices which give the appearance of a slim silhouette.” Women wanted comfort, not restriction, so lingerie was made to gently provide a structured frame to contain the body, not a sausage casing to stuff the body into. Thank goodness!
Half of all women in the 1940s wore a one piece brassiere with a girdle over panties. It was simple, affordable and most of all comfortable to wear. The Corset Brassiere Association of America reported in 1948 that a typical woman owned three undergarments, five bandeaus, and three long line bras. This was about half of what the Association suggested women own which was 5 hip (girdle) and 10 bust garments (bras). They figured women needed different combinations and styles of garments for 1. office or home wear, 2. sportswear and 3. evening wear. The suggested options were:
Suggested Lingerie for Casual, Day and Evening Wear
Taking the occasion into consideration was one way to choose garments and body type is the other. Women were sold foundation garments based on fitting into one of four main figure types:
4 Body Types and Suggested Lingerie for Each
4 Body Types and Suggested Lingerie for Each
Cup sizes didn’t exist in the 1940s like they do now. Instead a woman chose the bra type designed for her body type (above) and then measured around the fullest part of the chest to the back. That number in inches was her bra size. In comparison, today’s measurements involve counting the size of your chest cavity plus cup size- a far more accurate way of measuring.
The 1940s brassiere became shortened to the ‘bra.’ Bras of the era were plain without lace or decoration, most frequently made from rayon satin and sometimes cotton. The color was usually white, ivory or the very popular peachy-pink. Straps were adjustable and the bras fastened at the back with metal hooks and eyes, just like those of today.
1945 bras for small or full figure busts
The shape of ’40s bra was very different, however. All bras were full-coverage, with a 1-3 inch elastic underbust band reaching all the way from one side to the other. The band usually came down an inch to several inches below the bottom of the bust, covering some torso. There was also a substantial amount of fabric in the center, creating separation instead of the pushed-together cleavage of today. The straps came from the middle of the cups instead of the sides.
The shape they created was pointier than today, mostly because the design wasn’t fully developed yet and bra cups had several seams that came together at a point in the center. For smaller busts a thin fabric was all that was needed (usually called a bandeau instead of brassiere) while fuller bust bras used additional felt padding to create the pointed shape. Underwires did exist but were flexible, not stiff, only adding some support to the materials not necessarily to create the pointed shape. In many cases wire was added to the center bust panel to help separate the breasts. For this reason, women used to only wearing underwire bras today will find wearing an un-wired bra an odd feeling at first.
1940s full coverage bra in peachy-pink. Photo courtesy of sewingmachinegirl on Etsy.com
The longline bra is an icon of vintage lingerie, yet rarely worn by women today. It combines the traditional bra top with extra band length that extends to the belly button. The long panel is usually boned to help with posture and bust uplift. The purpose is to smooth out underbust flesh, much like a girdle smooths out tummy flesh. Most women who are of average figure size wore both a longline bra and girdle together for maximum smoothness. Longline bras were also popular evening styles because they could hold up and support a chest without straps or even a full back. Longer versions of the longline bra, called waistlette bras, extended down to the hips and had garter clips attached. This eliminated the need for a separate garter belt or panty girdles.
The strapless bra was a popular alternative to the 1940s longline bra for for evening and day wear. The low cut tops, open shoulder peasant blouse, and sundress fashions made wearing a strapped bra unsightly. Flexible boning in horizontal and vertical lines gave the strapless bra its shape. The feather boning was so soft it could be crushed without damage. It provided softer support than underwires.
1947 Bust Pads (Note the false nipples)
Bust pads or falsies were necessary for many small chested women, including some famous Hollywood stars. Bust pads also helped average women fill out ready-made dress tops instead of altering the bodice down. In the USA it was estimated 5 million sets of bust pads were sold each year. Find falsies on Amazon.com
By the end of the 1940s, the very pointed bullet bra was coming into vogue. It was made pointy not by seams but with circular stitches creating a “cone” effect. The 1940s bra was not unrealistic. Today’s bras tend to round out the breast while the 1940s breast was gently shaped into a moderate point. The 1950s bullet bra was to force the breast into an exaggerated point. The growth of bust pads and falsies doubled in the 1950s to accommodate the new, bigger, pointier, bust shape.
The best bras are usually cheap “granny” bras that come in boxes in the back corner of a department store. The styles have changed little since the 1940s.
See more at the end of the article.
Panties, also called step-ins, were not worn much by women until the 1930s, and became more popular in the ’40s. The panties of the 1940s would put even those known today as ‘granny panties’ to shame. They were made from rayon satin or cotton knit in colors similar to those used for bras and were plain. An elastic band at the top or a yoke with lacing kept them in place. They weren’t close-fitting or small – they reached up past the belly button and looked more like shorts than a bikini bottom. Most came down a few inches on the legs but could be legless (like modern boy shorts) or full leg shorts down to the knee. Talk about coverage!
Panties didn’t come with built in garter straps like girdles and wasitlettes did. Separate garter belts are needed to hold up stockings. Common fabrics include cotton, rayon, satin, brocades or all-elastic. Most have some elastic in them to hold them up around the hips or waist as well as in the clip attachments. The length of the garter straps can vary from 3 to 8 inches. Some come with an elastic waist to create an indented waistline.
Another issue with just panties in summer is thigh sweat and rubbing. Leg shields were made of rayon jersey that attached like a garter belt but had fabric down the inside of the leg and straps wrapping around the outside of the leg, hip sides, and buttox. They looked rather like a torture device but worked quite well. (Sorry I couldn’t find a picture)
Again, “granny” panties are the best. Get a tummy control high waist panty instead of a girdle for light to medium support.
Although girdles couldn’t be made in the same way that they were in the ’30s, they were produced and worn throughout the ’40s. They were praised for their shaping ability and posture improvements. They were made with rayon or cotton, and a small amount of elastic was allowed to be used to give them some stretch. They usually had some elastic panels on the front and back, the rest of the fabric being rigid. Steel boning at the back helped with posture correction.
The girdle was tight enough to shape well without sucking everything in, and reached to the waistline past the belly button. Full leg girdles would continue down into a skirt to cover the backside completely and had four elastic straps with metal clips to attach stockings , too. Since many women had begun to wear pants, a new type of ‘panty girdle’ started to be made. It was the same thing, except it took the form of a panty instead of a skirt. Girdles usually had metal zippers on one side to get in and out. Although girdles offered a smooth shape underneath the new closer-fitting clothes, many women chose not to wear them at all during the decade, wearing just a bra and panties – something that had not been done before.
Pull on or roll on all elastic girdles
While the elastic girdle was for slim to average sized women, a full figured woman needed a corset or corselette. These were usually steel boned and made with very heavy materials to provide maximum support and shaping. Since it combined a full bra, girdle, and hip coverage, the silhouette was perfectly smooth – no bumps and rolls anywhere.
Corselettes, also called All-in-Ones, are lighter versions of the heavy corset, although heavy versions could still be called corselettes. The corset was an old name, conjuring up thoughts of restrictive Victorian era shapewear – a thought most women in the 1940s wanted to avoid.
Whether girdle, corset or All-in One corselette, it served one more shaping purpose: the indent or waist nipper. A sharp indentation 2-3 inches above the belly button and just below the rib cage was part of the ideal 1940s silhouette. This provided the hour glass shape the 1940s were known for. Dress bodices were tailored to end right at this indention and skirts to begin and hang over the hips and stomach. The hips were never confined in ’40s girdles- only covered to smooth and shape gently. Remember that during the war women had to work, move, and bend in their girdles – there was no use for any confining undergarments.
It was less critical in the 1940s to have small proportions all around as it was to have the illusion of a small waist and full hips. This is one reason dressing in 1940s dresses is more flattering on a full spectrum of women’s shapes and sizes.
Spanx has reinvented shapewear. While they are comfortable and good at smoothing, they don’t supply the structure most women need for a 1940s shape. Try one of these instead:
Plain and fancy lace trim full slips with V necks
Slips were the last underwear layer a lady needed to create the perfect shape. Nine out of ten women wore slips on top of their foundation garments and under outer garments. Slips came in long dress-like varieties or shorter shirt and top only selections. Slips were usually white, black, or soft peachy pink, with sheer dresses often coming with matching color slips for the best look. Silk or rayon made the best slips while cotton knit was the most affordable slip, but prone to bunching at the knees and sticking to the inside of dresses. Taffeta slips retained body heat and were not worn in hot weather. Slips had adjustable thin shoulder straps and a figure flattering bias cut shape or straight cut gores.
The slip top either came in a V-neck cut for a dress or a square neck cut for blouses. Deep round cut slips were available to fit certain styles as well. Slips for fancy occasions had lace trim, otherwise specific adornment was considered necessary and likely to wear out faster than the slip material. No dress, suit or skirt would be complete without a slip to keep clothing from clinging to the body.
Half slips or petticoats were waist down slips. They were popular with young girls and women who wore dark skirts and light but not sheer blouses. A knit cami top was often worn with half slips. Taffeta petticoats added a “swish” sound under dresses, making them appealing to teens and single women looking to attract attention. They were A-line with a wide ruffle at the hem at first, but started to gain volume around 1947 when the New Look became the new fashionable style of the 1950s.
For the average woman, full 1950s style petticoats were not worn yet. Skirt fullness was achieved with the cut of the skirt and not with the aid of a fluffy petticoat. Until then, slips and half slips were straight or a-line cut with maybe one ruffle at the bottom for a little volume. Fuller petticoats were worn with long evening ballgowns throughout the 1940s, but even those were not the full shapes of the 1950s.
Black and white slips for all occasions
I receive emails asking about lingerie, especially in what order did women put them on and in what layers. Here is how 1940s women dressed:
* In many cases a detached garter was put on before the panties. These kept them in place. In fashion ads, the garter was worn outside the panties for modesty reasons.
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My question is what did fuller figured women wear with pants? I keep reading that it is suggested that fuller figured women wear a corselet to help create the correct silhouette but what do you wear with pants?? Can you wear a corselet with the wide leg looser fitting pant of the 1940s?
Yes, they still wore full corsetlets under pants too. Perhaps not at home in work pants or overalls but for going out, yes they did.
For the technicality, I can answer all the questions:
1. Girdle first; this is the foundation, High Waist OBG, Long Leg High Waist Panty Girdle, if all-in-one the foundation is completed;
2. Bra because it was Longline bra which goes over the OBG, you can sew hooks and eyes to secure the Longline bra to the girdle, the reason for longline bra was to offer an almost custom solution for each woman, remember that in those years you could have your foundation garments tailored to your own measurements.
3. Stockings ALWAYS at the end, with your shoes next to you, ready to slip in; you do not want to risk a run!
To Olivia Grace:
In the case of a garter belt (which was acceptable for teenagers but considered of a dubious morality for mature women), the garter belt is the first item to be put on, then panty over, then the stockings, shoes, bras if you wear one. It was very common for women not to wear any panty because they had enough money to have dress much longer than today :-); in the 40’s dress hem was just under the knee (was essentially a statement to the war effort), in the 50’s dress hem were back to mid calf to under the knee in early 60’s until the “revolution” (were the chic was to offer one’s private genitalia to the crowd).
To Ava and Debbie;
Ava, the blogger you’re referring to is right; the garter belt is always under the panty for precisely the practical reason you mentioned.
With an OBG you do not unzip; you simply unfasten the back tabs from your stockings and roll up the bottom of girdle a little and you good to go. Very easy and fast! You do not wear a panty under the OBG and very seldom over.
Stockings; Introduced in 1938 (after DuPont invented NYLON) were first flat knit and needed to be gathered with a stitch line (seamed) in the back, called seamed stockings or Full Fashion, they were hand made and real piece of art, factories employed thousands of people women and men to meet the demand. In 1952, the seamless stockings were introduced (easier to wear) as the fashion stockings of the time they came in 15 (evening wear), 30 (day wear) and 60 (heavy wear) deniers in 100% pure DuPont Nylon in sizes of 8 to 12 in half inch increments (some brands in 1/4 increments) and three lengths; short, mid and long. Until the end of the 60’s, women wore FF for very special evenings and seamless stockings the rest of the time. Stockings were very strong and long live; FF in 30 or 60 deniers could be easily repaired, a pair of seamless stockings could be wore for weeks before developing a run (with new knitting techniques), women always bought stockings in 2 and more pairs. Pantyhose were invented in the mid 50’s but were not at all welcomed by women, it is only with the advent of the baby boomer and the mini skirt and the move of the industry to increase their profits that the pantyhose took over. Today, well women are bare legged . . . . That’s all we achieved in the last 500 years . . .
After perusing many 1940s pin-up cartoons, it seems like it was the fashion to wear panties over their garter straps rather than under them, which makes sense if you want to avoid undressing completely to use the washroom. I was wondering if you could provide any insight as to where the line was drawn between wearing a set of panties over or under a garter or a corselette, if it depends on the length of the girdle, and on which occasions a 1940s woman might go without panties?
A garter belt or corselette was usually worn over panties. In some cases panties came with built in garter straps that may look like a garter belt and straps were under the panties. The pin up illustrations I have seen seem to draw them like this. I can’t think of any situation where a woman would not wear any panties.
I had read about this in another blog awhile back. In most photos we’ll see, the blogger said that only in photos did women wear their garter belts and similar over the panties. Women actually wore their panties *over* garter belts for practical reasons. It just didn’t look attractive in photos to wear the panties on top of garter belts. With the full girdles with attached garters, you don’t really have a choice but to unzip and let the girdle hang down a bit in the wash room, lol.
Many women back in the forties and fifties did not at that time realize the overall health benefits of being in these types of garments and the overall effects of posture. My grandmother, mother, and aunt who all lived with us back in the late forties and early fifties were always every day in either a girdle or a corset without question. They would about once a year go to a corsetiere for a fitting. I use to growing up over hear them talk about the fact that there were girdle or corset dependent – which I am positive was true. Sadly in the late sixties early seventies during the feminist movement girdles and decent vintage foundation wear was looked down on and became out of style. For women I believe this was very bad for their overall health related to posture. I did some research into foundation wear and found that wearing vintage girdles or corsets everyday has definite health benefits, it has to do with the fact as humans we stand erect, standing erect gravity and age with a decent supportive garments does have a very negative effect, being in a vintage girdle will daily hold and support your internal organs in their normal natural position, a decent firm boned girdle worn daily supports and holds your organs, muscles in place.
As a male I wanted to find out for myself both the health benefits and if girdle dependency is real or not. I found a professional corsetiere who was willing to work with me. First she fit me in a girdle that fit my life style Rago 6210 long leg high waist boned and zippered panty girdle, looking at my body over the years of not being girdled my posture was quite bad and with age I have a small stomach that needs a fair amount of control and support. I found over a few weeks of being girdled and following what the corsetiere told me I felt great my posture improved 100 percent sitting and standing, and yes once you start to relax those stomach muscles and start to rely on a girdle for support it is amazing how great you really do feel, and over a period of time you do become quite dependent on being daily in a girdle, now I understand much more concerning my grandmother, mother, and aunt.
I have come to the conclusion that both males and females make a major health mistake not to be daily in decent vintage girdle. Once use to the benefits of being girdle you do find you love it.
Although not talked about much there were girdles for men too. They were called other names but essentially did the same thing as womens. Thank you for your insight!
Debbie you are correct sorry to say girdles for males subject is not talked about, even though they are available. I have done some experimenting with both male and female girdles, I found interesting enough that the female girdle is far far better then the male girdles. The female girdle gives much more support and needed control over a males girdle. In my personal view girdles should not be for say female only, girdles are for both males and females.
From some of the research I have done in vintage girdles and corsets if you follow these steps
you will over a few weeks to months become Girdle Dependent – that is FACT.
1. First being fitted in the right kind of foundation garment for your life style and your figure.
2. Learn how to properly put on a girdle to get the most about of benefit of being in a girdle.
3. Learn how to keep your stomach relaxed and just rely on a girdle and foundation wear for supporting your posture.
4. Then developing a daily routine – wake up each morning, clean up and put on a girdle.
I believe if you followed these 4 steps over a few weeks to months you would become girdle dependent.
Let me know if anybody has tried these steps and if they became girdle dependent?
Tom have thought of exersice or dancing for posture? Im a dancer and it helps a lot. I don’t need any support for my posture plus dancing except great posture is also working out and having fun at the same time. Ballroom dance especially.
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