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Tips to Escape Winter

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As I slogged through the snow and slid my way across the icy sidewalk last winter, I vowed I would escape the cold next year. But where to go? I was even able to wear sandals once though most of the populace stared pointedly at my feet and patently thought I was insane. History and culture — I wanted to be in a place whose history and culture would provide plenty of fascinating opportunities for exploration. Cost — budget was an inevitable consideration and this had to include the cost of insurance, no small expense as we get older. Now, most guidebooks give this southernmost part of Italy short shrift, and though many Northern Italians come here for their holidays, a relatively small number of non-Italians do. But in February and March, Calabria is glorious. The sun shines, the temperatures remain temperate and the people are charming. Most importantly, unlike the more cosmopolitan cities further north, Calabrian towns remain stubbornly Italian. How could I resist the name? We had been warned that accommodations might be sparsely furnished and lacking essentials like towels, toilet paper and soap. But our hosts, Lino and Maria Caterina, had gone to extraordinary lengths to ensure we had everything we could possibly need. We were surprised to find a washer, hair dryers, laundry detergent, and even essentials like tea, coffee, milk, sugar and olive oil. Of course, being Italian, there were two more essentials — a sweet little cheese grater and a corkscrew! Soverato Marina has a long stretch of beach on the Ionian Sea. During our time here, we found that this same sea could look very different — gray, rough and menacing when the sky is overcast, and on sunny days, bright azure with gentle waves lapping the beach. A walk along the Lungomare — the sea walk — quickly became one of our favourite strolls. At several points along its length, we could walk up the street to one of several Dolci Cafes. Indeed, an essential part of each day was a cappuccino and a dolci — a sweet. I kept finding new treats but one of favourites is called chiacchiere and is a special treat at Carnival time Carnival or Mardi Gras festivals are common throughout Europe. Chiacchiere are light as air and crisp. Indeed, most dolci are small and not overly sweet, just a nice little treat to enjoy with coffee. Friday is market day when local farmers bring their produce into town and people from miles around come to buy. We bought fresh fish, veggies, lovely pecorino nero black coated sheep milk cheese , delicate slices of prosciutto, and brined local olives. The eggs are delicious and their yolks here are an extraordinary orange yellow. The tomatoes are picked ripe, so the flavour of sunshine is packed into each tangy bite. Even the carrots and potatoes seemed sweet. We walk everywhere and despite our lack of Italian, seem to have made friends all over. One day we hiked up to the pretty town of Soverato Superiore Upper Soverato which is very old, with narrow winding streets. Sculpted in by Antonello Gagini who worked with Michaelangelo, it was badly destroyed in an earthquake in , and restored in Florence only a few decades ago. Our guide was the elderly parish priest who lovingly showed us around. Here are the figures of St. Thomas Aquinas and Averroes also known as Ibn Rushd , a Muslim scholar who wrote about many subjects. I was amazed to learn from the priest that the two had dialogues in the early 12th century. Who knew that ecumenism was born that early! From Soverato, there are lots of places to explore. Indeed, he proved a gem as he speaks excellent English. Check his recipe for gnocchi. In many ways Soverato was ideal. There is lots to explore nearby and Soverato in February and March — their winter — is relatively inexpensive. Gerace : a mountaintop village in the Aspromonte. It dates to Paleolithic times but there is a wonderful Norman castle, mostly in ruins, which still stands. Built along the edge of the mountain so it stands above the peak, the mind boggles at this feat of construction! Badolato: was heavily destroyed by an earthquake. Most of the houses in the 1,year-old village, ft above the Mediterranean, had been abandoned more than four decades when a boatload of Kurdish refugees arrived in Italy from Turkey in The mayor offered the empty homes and the community helped the Kurds fix them so they could live there. Most have moved on to find jobs in other parts of Italy but the same community welcomed Syrian refugees recently. And a local monastery, long abandoned too, now houses a community of religious and non-religious called Mondo-X. They take in addicts and help them find a new path in life through working in the gardens and restoring the old buildings. MuSaBa: Nearly 50 years ago, Nik Spatari and Hiske Maas bought a crumbling monastery and began covering its stone walls with ceramic tiles in the most brilliant colours. International acclaim brought other artists to contribute. Everywhere one turns there is colour in the midst of this olive drab Calabrian landscape. Go to Musaba. Pietro Grande: It just means Big Rock…. About 10 km away, we opted to walk rather than take a bus. It was well worth the effort and before we had been on the beach 10 minutes, we already had an offer of a lift back to Soverato later in the day. Reggio di Calabria : the main town of the region is right at the bottom, opposite Sicily and easily accessed by train in about 90 minutes. Its history harks back to pre-Christian times. Indeed, evidence suggests that early man walked these mountains. In the Cathedral of Reggio Calabria, a stone can be found in St. Pizzo: this small seaside town on the West coast of Italy, famous for its gelato. Our favourite was Chez Toi, where Maurino has been making creamy gelato since ! I love pistachio gelato and this one even has pieces of nut in it. We watched him make a flaming volcano for one customer and their signature tartuffo for another. The town is built, as are so many Calabrian towns, along a mountainside. The piazza near the top is lovely with open air cafes and shops. Smoking is ubiquitous in Italy! And pretty churches pop up at every turn. Rocco Lico fashions pots, scoops, and more out of tin, a craft he learned from his father. But as with Pizzo, there are lots of stairs as the city straggles along the side of the mountain. Only one restaurant was open at lunch and it proved a gem. It looks almost like a tiny doll house when viewed from the main piazza. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed. Even on a cool day, it feels tropical and exotic. So I came to Italy. Not to Rome, or Venice, or Florence, but to Calabria. Olive groves stretch to the sea in the distance Now, most guidebooks give this southernmost part of Italy short shrift, and though many Northern Italians come here for their holidays, a relatively small number of non-Italians do. Even on a dull day, the beach is glorious Soverato Marina has a long stretch of beach on the Ionian Sea. Pistachio cream oozes from the centre of my croissant at Soverato Dolci Indeed, an essential part of each day was a cappuccino and a dolci — a sweet. Chiachierre quickly became one of my favourite treats Chiacchiere are light as air and crisp. We loved the cheeses at the market, nearly all of which were local Calabrian products. Typical narrow street in Soverato Superiore, the old town above the Marina. The Pieta sculpted by Antonella Gagini in has an unusual base with St. Thomas Aquinas and Averroes a Muslim scholar in dialogue. Antonio with us — a selfie In many ways Soverato was ideal. Places of interest nearby The Norman fort at Gerace, built along the sides of a mountain, is a marvel of engineering. The town of Badolato straddles the side of a mountain and made a name for offering homes to refugees. Mondo-X is a community which takes in addicts. It has been created in the remains of an old monastery near Badolato. One of the smaller ceramic creations at MuSaBa MuSaBa: Nearly 50 years ago, Nik Spatari and Hiske Maas bought a crumbling monastery and began covering its stone walls with ceramic tiles in the most brilliant colours. The walls of the monsatery are covered with colourful mosaic tiles International acclaim brought other artists to contribute. Further afield View from the top of Castello Aragonas in Reggio di Calabria Reggio di Calabria : the main town of the region is right at the bottom, opposite Sicily and easily accessed by train in about 90 minutes. This stone is said to have burned spontaneously while St. Paul preached to the heathens in this area In the Cathedral of Reggio Calabria, a stone can be found in St. Buthank you for sharing. Thank you a lot. I'd love your feedback. Leave a reply. Cancel reply.

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