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Despite those blights, I was pleasantly surprised by what the city has to offer. Clean streets, a host of cultural institutions and a string unique local businesses are just some of the things that have made the city such a memorable stop on my latest trip to Slovakia. It should have been no surprise! Home to the first catholic university in Slovakia, Trnava has played a vital role in the spiritual life and health of its nation. Situated in the heart of Western Slovakia, in the the Danubian Lowland a watershed draining to the Danube , you will find the city of Trnava. It is located well above sea level, in a part of the country renowned for its agricultural land. To the west lies the little Carpathian Mountains and their plethora of Castles, including that of Elizabeth Bathory. Although small settlements have existed since the Neolithic Period New Stone Age , the Settlement we know today as Trnava came into prominence in the medieval ages. An agricultural centre and market town, Slovak populated Trnava appears in the written record as far back back as Its importance was derived from its location at the junction of two important roads; the first from Bohemia Czech Lands to the Kingdom of Hungary and the second from the Mediterranean Sea to Poland. As such it was the first town in Upper Hungary Slovakia today to be granted market privileges. This allowed the town to outgrow its agricultural roots, becoming a center of crafts, trade and manufacturing. Like all settlements in Slovakia, the Mongol invasion of Hungary in brought about many changes to the Hungarian State. A testament to its growing importance can be found in the fact that many agreements and diplomatic events were signed or took place in the town. King Louis I was in fact a frequent visitor, and interestingly enough, would also pass away in this town. Although the Hussites were successful they did retreat back to Moravia. They would return in , taking the town without a fight and using it as their base in the northwestern quadrant of Kingdom of Hungary now Western Slovakia until Many refugees from Hungary fled north, with many settling in Trnava. Upper Hungary Slovakia was then absorbed into the Austrian Empire, a staunchly catholic state. This would lead to severe political and religions conflicts with Hungary erupting into revolt multiple times against the Habsburgs dynasty of Austria, over the 17th century and early 18th century. This political unrest severely damaged the local economy. The city was an important center for the Jesuit order during the counter-reformation movement. From Trnava, they preached against the spread of the protestant religion, a faith that was quickly gaining a foothold in Hungarian lands and Europe at large. The Jesuits made their home in the city in focusing on education; both at the municipal level and in seminary. This was the only such university in the Kingdom of Hungary at that time. Due to the Slovak majority in the city, the University soon became a hotbed of Slovak education and literature and a printing press industry henceforth developed around these education institutions promoting the ideals of Slovak national identity. This would flower into the 18th century Slovak national revival. The Catholic University of Trnava was closed and moved to Buda in the 18th century and the Archbishopric back to Esztergom signaling a large blow to the city, its religious influence and its prestige. During the Hungarian Revolution of , a landmark event sparking revolts throughout the continent, a battle between the Imperial Austrian army and Hungarians took place here in The Slovaks sided with the Habsburgs in this fight but were not rewarded with autonomy. Instead Slovakia Upper Hungary was re-incorporated into the Kingdom of Hungary and during the compromise of , failed to gain any sort of recognition. This only accelerated the process of Magyarization. Despite its desperate situation, the Slovaks of Trnava kept up the cause of national consciousness, like they had done so many times before, founding the The St. Like many cities, Trnava experienced industrialization allowing it to be modernized. Among those projects were a horse-railway connection to Bratislava that was completed in It was the first in the Kingdom of Hungary. This line was later converted to steam locomotives in Another was that the walls of the city came down for the most part allowing new public spaces and roadways to take their place. As the First World War came to an end in , the country was incorporated in a new Czechoslovak state. They remained part of this union until the end of the century with the exception of a brief period as an independent Nazi puppet. In , Czechoslovakia became a Soviet controlled state after the country was occupied by the Soviet Union, during in the closing chapters of the Second World War. In , the Czechoslovak state broke up during the Velvet Divorce, and Slovakia was independent again for the first time since the time of Great Moravia. A momentous event happened in Pope Paul VI made Trnava the see of a separate Slovak archbishopric, a post it had lost in Known for its Catholic history, be prepared to take in beautiful old churches, yet it was the Jewish heritage that blew me away. The downtown of Trnava has seen better days but it has also seen worse. Bombed into the ground during the second world war, many structures are now being restored. What the town is today, can be summed up as pedestrian friendly and rich in history. It currently serves as the public square of the city and is the location of many of the towns businesses and patios. Once part of the 15th century town hall, the steps up will give you views of the city and the surrounding mountains in the distance. In front of the buildings you will find a square with the Holy Trinity, a plague column dating from Trnava has the distinction of being known for its Jewish history, which is a blessing and a curse when you consider how devoid of Jews the city is today. Only their monuments remain to remind us of their former residents. Much of the old Jewish ghetto lies south of M. The city then known as Tyrnau has the unfortunate distinction of being the site of the first account of the antiemetic lie that Jews were feminine and had monthly bleedings, like a woman would dating from In , after a severe blood libel, the Jews were expelled from the city. Blood libels tie into the Christian paranoia of the Jewish people. It can carry the form of accusations of baby kidnapping and the idea that Jews drank blood to cure their bleedings. Confessions were mostly obtained though torture as seen from the absurdity, even the impossibility, of some of those recorded statements. It should be noted that Jews were not allowed to return to the city until Their synagogues have recently been restored after their abandonment during the holocaust. Sadly with no Jews to fill them they now serve as art galleries and businesses. For those unaware the bagel has long ties to the Jewish peoples of Central Europe, the Ashkenazi Jews. These ties date back from the 17th century; in cities like Krakow and Vilnius. The inside of the building has been expertly restored and includes its old Jewish symbols, proudly displaying its past. Located in the north end of the city this church is a mix of Baroque and Neoclassical. It is more impressive on the interior, I can assure you. Its white painted grand baroque naive is something to be seen. The church itself was completed in Around the church you will find seminaries and academic faculty buildings once used in the practice of teaching. Believe it or not the Cathedral was actually part of a gift to the university and was part of the complex of buildings it is attached to. Some have been re-appropriated and while less pretty new structures were erected where the bombs once fell. Its claim to fame is that it is known to have the largest number of altars among all religious buildings in Trnava. My favorite of the big churches in town, this massive gothic structure dates from the 15th century, being completed in It also has many course of exposed brick from under the plaster which gives it a bit of a rustic look! In the area surrounding the church you will find many old seminary buildings, including the majestic Stephaneum, a religious palace that served as the Seminary of St. This local history museum is worth the stop of if you have time and wish to learn more about the region. Housed in the old Monastery of Poor Klares, this is a worthwhile stop in your exploration of the city. To spruce them up the city has taken upon itself to add in painted soldiers either manning it or doing a plethora of activities! Despite its reduced stature, Trnava surprised me. The city may have declined as a result of war and the centralization of institutions those institution being shifted back to Hungary proper during the 19th century , but it certainly was not vanquished. With the independence of a separate Slovak state, Trnava has been able to regain its rightful place among the great Slovak cities. Welcome back Trnava, the world has missed you! Skip to content. Too Square to be Hip A narcissist's guide to travel and culture. Medieval Ages An agricultural centre and market town, Slovak populated Trnava appears in the written record as far back back as Share on Facebook. Post on X. Follow us. Previous Post:.
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