Traverse

Traverse in mountaineering

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MCS AlexClimb Mountain Climbing School

On the photo there is one of the most significant achievements in the modern technical mountaineering - the traverse of the Fitzroy Massif (Argentina, Patagonia) accomplished in 2014 by a team of professional climbers Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold. The route is unique in many ways - objective difficulty, unpredictable weather conditions, absence of any information on the condition of different parts of the route.

This achievement will forever remain in the treasury of the world mountaineering as a record achieved on the limit of human capabilities.

In mountaineering, a traverse is the highest level of skill, a route that requires from the climbers to have much more tactics, technique, and logistical skills than a regular ascent.

For simplicity, a traverse is an ascent to the summit and descent via different routes, passing the summit with a full set of equipment and gear. The summit on a traverse is not the ultimate goal, but an intermediate point of the route, its altitude culmination, but by no means its technical end.

A traverse is climbing a mountain not along the radial route, where the lines of ascent and descent coincide. A traverse is an ascent and descent along different routes.

The ideology of the traverse is that the technical task does not end with the ascent to the summit and subsequent descent along an already known and understood route.

In the event that a mountaineering route involves traversing the summit - ascent to the highest point - this is only an intermediate point of the route.

The difficulty of traverses lies in the fact that the team's reserve of strength and endurance should be calculated for a significantly longer period, including the possibility of ascending to other peaks. A traverse is not just an ascent. It is an extremely serious expedition that requires perfect physical preparation, coordination, understanding of the common task, effective work on the route, and precise and error-free logistical decisions.

An alpine traverse is a route that is always pushed to the limits of one's abilities. The desire to reach this limit and expand it is the most valuable and important aspect of mountaineering. This is its true essence.

For particularly enthusiastic and eager climbers who are ready to fight against the elements, I want to outline a number of the most valuable and difficult challenges in mountaineering traverses.

Traverse of Elbrus South-North - a route comparable in physical demands to the standard ascent, but with certain logistical difficulties - this route can be considered as a commercial program.

Traverse of Mount Elbrus from East to West - a real challenge for many climbers, but requiring a very serious level of preparation (compared to the standard ascent). The route can be considered in the format of a commercial program.

Traverse of Mount Kazbek from Devdorak gorge to the Classic route (Georgia) - accessible to many, very interesting, and beautiful route, physically easier than the traverse of Mount Elbrus. Currently, there are logistical difficulties with programs in Georgia, including obtaining a border pass to Devdorak Gorge. In general, it is a very interesting and unusual variation of the Mount Kazbek climbimg route, available for small and prepared commercial groups.

Traverse of Bezengi Wall - an absolute classic of the Soviet and Russian mountaineering. I took part in two attempts at this traverse - from the side of Mount Shkhara and from the side of Mount Gestola, both unsuccessfully. Currently, access to the route is possible only from the Georgian side - there is a ban on climbing the peaks of Bezengi Wall from Russia. Due to its objective complexity and danger, it cannot be considered as a commercial route.

Traverse of North Bezengi Massif - Kostan - Dykh Tau - a very difficult task for a small, technically prepared team. Due to its objective complexity and danger, it cannot be considered as a commercial route.

Traverse of Mount Tetnuld - Mount Gestola (or vice versa) - a very beautiful and relatively non-demanding route that can be considered as a commercial program.

The traverse of Ushba - that is one of the most legendary routes of the Caucasus. Climbing the difficult peak requires perfect teamwork and excellent technical preparation. The Ushba traverse can be done in both directions - from south to north and vice versa. The ascent from the south involves climbing the Gabriel route to the South peak and descending the easier Classic route on the northern ridge. For commercial programs, the route is too difficult and unpredictable.

The traverse of Mount Belukha massif in Altai - Delone-Corona Altai - is the most beautiful route, the dream of any climber. Each time I climbed Mount Belukha, I imagined the pleasure of overcoming a chain of the most beautiful mountains of Altai, going beyond the beaten paths. The traverse of Mount Belukha requires technical mountaineering skills and careful preparation. At the moment, there are doubts about the effectiveness of local rescue services and their ability to provide support on the Belukha traverse. In addition, there is a ban on climbing Mount Belukha from the Russian side.

The traverse of Peak Lenin is not technically difficult but physically very demanding. Normally it starts with an ascent on the Classic route and a descent through the Krylenko pass. It is a technically easy but very physically challenging task - climbing a peak over 7000 meters high with all the equipment and gear.

The traverse of the Fitzroy massif in Patagonia. A known route - ascending through "Goretta" and descending through the classic "California" - a complex adventure for climbers experienced in Big Wall climbing. The headline photo of this article shows Fitz traversed along this line.

The traverse of the Matterhorn - south to north. A real challenge comparable in difficulty to the normal climb of this mountain. The Matterhorn route is well equipped with fixed ropes and shelters. The logistics of the traverse consist only in returning after the descent from the other side of the summit. Thanks to the infrastructure and perfectly functioning rescue services, the Matterhorn traverse is one of the most accessible and safe traverses in the Alps.

Traversing Mont Blanc - this is a popular and relatively easy traverse of a famous mountain that offers many route variations. Thanks to its infrastructure and highly effective rescue services, it is one of the most popular and frequently climbed traverses in the Alps.

When planning any traverse, it is important to consider that in the event of an unexpected situation or accident, self-evacuation of the group from the route along the ascent path may be impossible. During the expedition preparation stage, it is essential to carefully assess the group's level of preparedness, self-rescue capabilities, and the availability of rescue services in the region.

And what interesting traverse ideas do you have?

The author of the text and photos - Alex Trubachev
Your professional technical mountain guide

MCS EDIT 2023