Tranny 5

Tranny 5




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Tranny 5

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      I see so many questions
on installing S-10 T-5 transmissions into old trucks
I thought I'd write down my experience and offer it as tech reference. Instructions
are for installing in a Advance Design model truck ('47 to '53) but I think
would be very similar for other years. This is not a straight forward install,
particularly the clutch -- beginners may not want to tackle this swap .

      The tricky parts of this swap are putting
together a clutch package and finding the right ratio's tranny for your purpose.
These trannys don't have a great reputation with muscle car enthusiasts who
run them with V-8's, but they seem to be adequate for a 6. Mine has worked fine
for 15 K now behind a 235.
      The T-5 was used in many applications: from 5.0 Mustangs to Jeeps to Vegas. They have the poorest reputation from the first two applications. The one you want for your truck should be from a 2 WD S-10 as the shifter in these variants is located nearest the front. It will locate the shifter about seven inches behind the stock 4-speed in AD trucks. Other variants will locate the shifter in the bench seat. You can use another variant and change the shifter location by bolting the tail shaft housing from an S-10 to it. The shifter is part of this housing so it will be located in the S-10 position. This seems to be your only option if you want a close ratio box from a V-8.
     The close ratio uses a 2.95 first gear and is
best if you want performance set up. 2.95 is what the stock three-speed uses
for first in the '50. The info I got from the Chevy dealer shows 2 ratios available
from '85 to '90 in the S-10 though there may be others: ML2 code in the glove
box is 4.03 first and 2.37 second; ML3 is 3.76 first and 2.18 second.
      I use an S-10 box with a 4.03 first. 4.03
is great for occasional steep driveways or creeping in a field but I usually
start off in 2nd gear, which is 2.37. This will require some slipping the clutch
at takeoff but works good for me. However, it will not give you a great launch
if you want to do stoplight competition.
      Another option is a box with 3.55 first
gear. To me, this seems to be in-between the two and a compromise but I have
heard some say they like it with a 3.73 rear. I prefer a 3.90 rear which will
cruise 65 at 2100 RPM but will also pull hills OK in OD at 50. Also watch
your OD ratios . I ended up with one early model box that had a .9 OD ratio.
Hardly worth shifting into OD. Most are .72 but best to mark the input and output
shafts and count revolutions.
      An early box with mechanical speedo is
a plus. I hear it's very expensive to change from electronic to mechanical speedo
drive. I find S-10 box's plentiful for $50 to $100 at swaps, but the V-8 variants
with 2.95 first seem to run more, around $200. Junkyards are very expensive
places to get these. If time is on your side, shop around. Penny Saver-type
papers are also a good source.
     After, or preferably before you purchase, it's
good to take a peak inside before you install. You can't just pop a cover off
to inspect these, you must pull off the tail shaft housing and shifter to get
the top cover off. As long as you're doing this you may as well at least re-shim
the end play off the main shaft. They use tapered roller bearings and any end
play will result in sloppy bearing clearance as in sideways play. One might
consider bearings and synchro's at this time also. Instructions are in Chilton's
at your local library. Also good time to change the speedo drive gear if necessary.
You might not have to do this if you're using a 3.73 or taller rear but I did
with the 3.90. The S-10 used only one drive gear (9 teeth I think) but I found
the Camaro T-5 had the right gear. I used GM P/N 14071731 (7 teeth drive gear)
and 14077086 (driven gear) for my ratio of 3.90 and tire size of 28.8 inches.
This will vary for different applications.
      Also remove the C-clip from the rear of
the output shaft. I don't know the purpose of it but found it interfered when
I used a particular drive shaft; could not slide it far enough forward to install.
Some simple mods will need to be done to the tranny. Ream or drill the 4 mounting
holes to open them up from the metric size to half inch. You will notice the
input shaft, the pilot part of the shaft and the front bearing retainer are
longer than the stock tranny's. I cut about 1/4 of an inch off the pilot to
match the stock one. This still leaves the overall length of the shaft a little
long but was not a problem. You can drive the pilot bushing in further if it
does interfere. I also cut the bearing retainer to match one from a stock tranny.

     I found the tricky part was putting a clutch
package together. Notice the splines are shorter than your stock tranny. They
are also different size and number. S-10's are likely 1-inch, 14 teeth, V-8
boxes are fine spline. Mine was 1-inch 14 so I used a 11-inch flywheel and an
'85 Astro Van 11- inch disc with a pressure plate from a small block. Used a
throw out bearing from an SB but for a cast iron fork. Use the stock fork and
clutch linkage. This setup put me within about .100 of running out of clutch
splines on the input shaft. Enough to dis-engage but barely. I think if I ran
out of splines I would have ground down the clutch disc hub a little. This is
a gray area and I recommend setting everything up without a pressure plate installed
so you can see what's going on for clearance. I found some Astro Van discs very
different from others. Any other make disc could work as long as it matches
your input shaft and is the right thickness.
      The gearbox is a couple inches longer
than the stock one so you will need a shorter drive shaft. For my '50 with the
'55 rear I found an Astro Van shaft fit perfectly with a Napa 348 cross over
U joint for the rear. Again, this may vary for your application. Also needed
a longer speedo cable. I've run the T-5's and Saginaws with no trans mount several
thousand miles with no problems, the trucks mount on the bell housing. It did
however make me nervous with aluminum case sticking so far out in space so I
fabricated a cross member from the original truck's cross member. I cut and
welded a recessed pocket in it, also cut and welded in tubes where the bolts
pass through the vertical part of the cross. I bolted the mount to the tranny
first and then slid the cross under it and bolted it on. Again perhaps not necessary
but makes me feel better.
      Most people at shows think I have a stock
4 speed. I used a 4-speed shifter welded onto the S-10 shifter. This does make
for a long throw but I've heard of people reoperating the shifter pivot to address
this. I acquired a Hurst after-market shifter with a short throw I plan on installing.

      With the T-5 I can cruise 65 mph at 2100
rpm and still pull hills at 50mph without having to shift out of OD. I don't
hesitate to drive to a show or vacation hundreds of miles away. 65 to 70 is
about all I feel comfortable doing in the truck and I still prefer a state highway
to the interstate. Ratios are a gray area of this article. I make recommendations
based on what I like and others may prefer different ratios depending on geographic
location, engine, cam, how you plan on driving, towing, importance of gas mileage
vs. performance.

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