Toilet Rough

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Toilet Rough
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That means there is 12-inches between the center of the toilet flange to the finished back wall. This information can be found on the toilet's specification sheet. 12 inches is the most common toilet rough -in size. However, it's useful to know that toilet's also come in: 10-inch rough -in. 14-inch rough -in.
The rough -in of a toilet is the distance between the toilet's rear finished wall and the center of the drain line. You can as well measure from the wall to one of the mounting bolts. Toilets have a standard rough -in of 12 inches, although some have a 10 or 14-inch rough -in.
There are four major rough -in measurements that you need to know before you start trying to install a new toilet in your bathroom. 1 The distance from the flange to the back wall 2 The amount of clearance on the left of right 3 How much space is in front of the bowl 4 Where the cold water supply line goes We will cover each of these in turn.
A toilet's rough -in measurement is the distance between the bathroom wall and the central floor waste or drain outlet onto which the toilet is connected. Most toilets have a standard rough -in of 12 inches, but you can find older homes that have an unusual size of 9", 10″ or 14″.
Toilet rough -in standard dimensions are 10", 12", and 14", 12" being the most common in newer homes and buildings. The rough -in measurement is the distance from the toilet's adjacent wall to the center of the toilet's bolts. The rough -in dimension is the most important indicator of whether a new toilet will fit in a bathroom or not.
Simply said, toilet rough -in is a measure that determines the position of a toilet waste output relative to the wall or floor of your bathroom. In most cases, it is the distance between the wall and the middle of the closet bolts, the bolts sticking out of your floor that are used to hold the toilet bowl in place.
Toilet drainage rough -in steps Cut a hole in the subfloor just large enough for the bottom part of the toilet flange to sit. The flange rim will be fastened to the finished floor later. The center of the toilet flange should be 12" from the finished wall (add a 1/2" for drywall if measuring from the framing).
Standard Toilet Rough In (Common Rough In Sizes) The standard toilet rough in is 12". I'd say 80% of toilets have a 12" rough in so don't be surprised if you do as well. There are, however, other rough in sizes. 10" and 14" are also possible and you'll have a smaller selection of toilets that fit those sizes.
Free Rough -In Checklist: http://www.hammerpedia.com/ric2Learn how to rough -in a toilet along with the important measurements you need to know.
In general, the toilet rough -in distance is 12″ from the center of the toilet flange to the back wall for a typical toilet . There should also be a minimum of 15″ from the centerline of the toilet to any wall or object on either side of the toilet . Finally, there should be a 21″ minimum clearance from the front of the toilet to any wall or object.
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Written by Smith Edwards in Toilets
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Z3OxpMZDuE
Measuring a toilet is relatively a simple process, but you need to be careful when taking the measurements to get a precise idea of how much space your toilet system will take up. Toilet rough-in dimensions must also take into consideration the height and size of the toilet to ensure that the same arrangement will accommodate a new toilet when it’s time to replace your old one. Any future toilet replacement should snugly fit into the same space and line up with your plumbing system .
A toilet’s rough-in measurement is the distance between the bathroom wall and the central floor waste or drain outlet onto which the toilet is connected. Most toilets have a standard rough-in of 12 inches, but you can find older homes that have an unusual size of 9” , 10″ or 14″. Always take your time to measure this distance to be sure that the new toilet purchase will be compatible.
Manufacturers do not always produce standardized toilet models, so it’s common to end up with a too small or too big toilet system for your bathroom. While most toilets have rough-ins ranging from 10 to 14 inches, purchasing a unit with the exact rough-in as your existing one will make t installation easy and cost-effective.
Purchasing a toilet that is even one inch off means that you will miss out on the luxury of using the toilet as you won’t be able to install a new commode. You obviously don’t want to end up in such a situation! Besides, having to return the wrong toilet comes with its fair share of burden and costs.
Plumbing professionals will tell you that the standard toilet rough-in measurement is 12 inches, and this holds true for both one-piece and two-piece toilet systems . However, you can sometimes find toilets with rough-ins of 10 inches or 14 inches. If you find a different rough-in from these three, then it’s truly a unique toilet system.
Because most toilets have strange shapes, you need to use a flexible measuring tool that you can be able to move around. The best tool to check the rough-in of a toilet is a simple, loose measuring tape such as the Milwaukee Tool 48-22-7125 Magnetic Tape Measure .
You also need to have a pen and paper so you don’t forget the measurement once you’re out shopping. Just make sure you can easily and accurately read the tape measure and it uses the standard units of measurement (inches in the US) for buying toilet systems and other appliances.
Basically, you need to know 4 essential toilet rough-in dimensions:
You should set the middle of the water closet flange exactly 12″ from the finished wall behind the toilet (for a 12-ich rough-in toilet). Note that the measurement shouldn’t be taken from the base molding but rather from the finished wall. If you’re measuring from stud walls, ensure you add in the thickness of the wall.
Since most people install 1/2″ drywall, your measurement needs to be 12 1/2″ from the stud wall. Also, note that this measurement is for standard toilet models with 12″ rough-ins. Other toilet designs with 8-inch , 10-inch, or 14-inch rough-ins should have measurements of 8 inches, 10 inches, and 14 inches, respectively. Similarly, you need to add the drywall thickness to these measurements. Always check the toilet’s specifications sheet for this information.
It is helpful to know water closet rough-in sizes to ensure you don’t move the flange when replacing the toilet. And if you’re roughing in a toilet and you bump into a floor joist on your way, you can use a different toilet rough-in to avoid the framing.
You need a minimum of 15 inches from the center of your toilet unit to any adjacent bathroom fixture or sidewalls. However, it’s acceptable to have even more room if you have a spacious bathroom. 
So, if you have a bath vanity, sidewalls, bathtubs, showerheads, and other bathroom fixtures next to your toilet, the clearance has to be at least 15 inches from the center of the toilet. Keep in mind that if you’re measuring from a stud wall, you still need to add in the thickness of the wall.
This measurement depends on your local plumbing code. For example, if your local jurisdiction is under the International Plumbing Code (IPC), you’ll need a minimum of 21 inches of clearance. But if your plumbing code is under the Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC), you’ll need at least 24 inches of clearance.
The measurement is taken from the front edge of your toilet to any obstruction, such as walls, other plumbing fixtures, and doors. However, you won’t need a clearance of 21 or 24 inches when the bathroom door is open. After all, people don’t use the bathroom with the door open. The primary purpose of this clearance is to allow you to use the toilet comfortably.
Finally, you need to have the right measurement from the center of your bathroom’s water closet flange to the sides and top of the toilet. Typically, you need to measure 6 inches to the left and come up 7 inches above the finished floor. Such a height clears most sizes of base moldings.
In most bathrooms, you’ll find the water line coming in too low and requiring notching of the trim, which ruins the bathroom’s aesthetic appeal. Having 7 inches above the finished floor allows adequate clearance for an escutcheon and the base trim all the way up to 5.25 inches.
When taking rough-in measurements, be sure to measure from the finished wall and not from the molding or baseboard. A precisely-measured rough-in will help you avoid the hassle and cost of making unnecessary adjustments to your plumbing system or returning the toilet.
If you are not able to identify the center of the drain (in cases where you still have a toilet in place), take measurements from the finished wall to the center of the toilet’s bolt caps . You will notice that most toilets have two bolt caps, one on each side of the toilet unit.
During the measurement, be sure to keep the tape measure even and carefully pull the other end until it aligns accurately with the central bolts holding the toilet base. Beneath those central bolts is the central floor waste or drain outlet through which waste flows. Now, read the number and note it down.
The average length of any toilet rough-in should be 10, 12, or 14 inches. A 12-inch rough-in is the standard, but it’s not uncommon to find bigger or smaller toilets.
Sometimes, plumbers install toilets with the back facing a corner instead of flashing against a wall. If that is the case with your bathroom, it complicates the process of measuring the rough-in. To get a precise measurement for a corner toilet , begin by placing the measuring tape against one wall, ignoring any baseboard.
Now pull the other side of the tape and take the measurement to the central bolts. Repeat the process for the opposite wall that the toilet unit sits against. Typically, the two measurements should generate the same measurement, which is the rough-in. Here is a list of corner toilets to explore.
Rear-outlet toilet systems are configured a bit differently . Instead of waste exiting through the floor, it is designed to exit through the bathroom wall. So, the rough-in measurement for a rear-outlet toilet unit is the distance from the bathroom’s finished floor to the center of the waste outlet.
This number will generally be smaller than what you would get on a regular toilet, often by half. So, it’s not strange to get rough-in measurements of 5, 6, or 7 inches.
There are a few common errors that you need to avoid when it comes to measuring a toilet rough-in. Many people make the mistake of measuring the rough-in from the baseboard that often lies along the perimeter of the bathroom floor. In many cases, this may skew your rough-in measurement by up to 1/2”. Be sure to account for the baseboard when calculating your dimensions.
Secondly, do not measure the bolt cap on the base of the toilet if it is not centered exactly on the discharge hole. Many people often wrongly guess that the bolt cap is centrally aligned with the drain outlet center, which is not a safe bet.
Some people also assume that bigger toilet units, such as ADA-approved or elongated toilets , require a larger rough-in, which is not accurate. You will find elongated toilets designed to fit rough-in of 10 inches and some built to fit 12 or 14 inches.
As a homeowner, you can be flexible with the height and width of your toilet bowl and tank, but the rough-in is something you don’t want to get wrong when shopping for a replacement. Without a precise rough-in, your existing plumbing won’t connect correctly and waste won’t be disposed of appropriately.
To make sure you’ve gotten the right rough-in measurement, measure and confirm your specs several times before heading to the market. Fortunately, almost all toilet rough-in measurements are an even number, rounded between 10 inches, 12 inches, or 14 inches. If you get a number that is weirdly different, you need to check again.
Now that you have all the tips on how to accurately measure a toilet rough-in size, feel free to share with us how your project goes on in the comment box below. Once you have expertly installed your new toilet unit, consider improving your hygiene bathroom experience by investing in an electronic bidet seat for your toilet.
The standard rough-in is 12 inches, but many toilet designs can accommodate distances of 11 to 13 inches. So, it’s possible to replace a 14-inch rough-in model with a 12-inch unit. However, you’ll have to leave a gap between the toilet unit and the wall – approximately 2 inches.
Most toilet bowls will function well with either a 10″ or a 12″ rough-in. However, a 10″ rough-in tank is much slimmer to accommodate the decreased distance. Since 10″ rough-in is rare these days, a 10″ rough toilet system tends to be more expensive.
Most plumbing codes require at least 15 inches from either side of the bathroom wall or any obstruction and not closer than 30 inches to any other sanitary fixture (center to center). This space is typically measured from the center of the toilet unit to the bathroom walls or other fixtures. Additionally, there should be at least 24 inches of open space in front of the toilet unit or bidet.
Smith Edwards is a full-time freelance writer with more than 10 years of writing and fact-checking experience. He has contributed to numerous consumer publications for several reputable publications, including Sprucebathroom.com, Sprucetoilets.com, and Mybesuitedhome.com.
Although many people who own homes now a day, no matter where they're located in the world, have moved away from bathtubs in preference for showers, don't let this trend deter you.



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Everything you need to know about bathrooms!
Are you considering replacing your toilet or choosing one for your new home?
If so, things such as the bowl’s shape, toilet’s height and whether the toilet is one or two-piece will be just some of the items on your list of decisions to make.
Before getting to any of those, however, you will have to consider the single most important measure of a toilet, the toilet rough-in.
Simply said, toilet rough-in is a measure that determines the position of a toilet waste output relative to the wall or floor of your bathroom.
In most cases, it is the distance between the wall and the middle of the closet bolts, the bolts sticking out of your floor that are used to hold the toilet bowl in place.
But, more about that in the next section about measuring toilet rough-in.
Now that you understand what the term means, you can also see why it’s the most important factor to consider when choosing a toilet to buy.
Unless you want to redo your plumbing completely (which, trust me, you do not want to do in most cases), you will have to choose from toilets that have the same rough-in as your bathroom was built for, or the bowl will not fit at all or will fit badly causing a lot of issues.
In other words, toilet rough-in is the one factor which you cannot be flexible about when choosing your new toilet bowl.
When measuring the rough-in of your toilet, you will first have to determine which of the following toilet types you have:
Most likely, you will have a standard toilet in which case you will have to measure the distance between the wall and the middle of the closet bolts as mentioned in the previous section.
In case you have four closet bolts rather than the typical two, you have to measure the distance to the pair of bolts closer to the wall.
In case you have a corner toilet, the rough-in is still the distance between the wall and the bolts. But, in this case, the distance should be equal from either of the two walls that form the corner in which you will be placing the toilet.
Finally, if your toilet waste output is in the wall rather than the floor, the toilet rough-in is the distance between its center and the floor.
The one thing to keep in mind regardless of the type of toilet you have is that when taking the measure, you will have to start at the “top layer” of the wall or floor.
And so, if you plan to replace your tiles or put new tiles on top of your existing ones, you will have to take that additional layer into account.
The above might make it seem like it is really easy to pick a toilet that will not fit your bathroom.
Luckily, though, most of bathrooms use standard toilets and have waste outlet in the floor with one of the following three rough-in sizes:
To measure your toilet’s rough-in, you can, of course, use a tape measure.
But, in case you have a standard toilet and don’t have a tape measure handy, the easiest way to do so is by using a piece of letter-size paper.
Since the paper’s longer side is 11 inches and its diagonal is 13.9 inches, it makes it really easy to figure out which of the three standard sizes you have in your bathroom.
When measuring your toilet rough-in, chances are you will not get a nice round number perfectly fitting one of the three standard sizes. However, you will very likely get a number very close to it.
In that case, do not worry about it too much.
Just remember that you have to get a toilet built for a shorter rough-in than your actual measurement or otherwise it will not fit. And so, if your tape measure will read 12 and a half inches, you will have to get the 12-inch toilet.
With that in mind, in theory, you could even get a 10-inch toilet in the above situation.
However, you should not do that as there will be a large gap between the back of the toilet and the wall which will not only look bad, but will also be impractical as anything you place on top of the toilet’s tank will easily fall behind it.
As you can see above, getting the rough-in correct when choosing a toilet is important both for practical and aesthetic purposes.
To get the number, in most cases, you will have to measure the distance between the wall of your bathroom that the toilet will be placed against and the bolts that are sticking out of the ground to hold the toilet in.
And, in most cases, you will get a number close to one of the three standard measures: 10-inch, 12-inch, and 14-inch.
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