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It was back to Indonesia which involved getting to KL and then a flight onto Medan where I could get a visa on arrival at the airport. There was not much hanging around in Medan as this was a city that was famed for noise, traffic pollution and general chaos. I had 3 hours to spare until the bus departed on its km journey to the northern tip of Sumatra so I found a little Padang Indonesia food cart on wheels and tucked into mutton Sate. Whilst dining I had one of my most bizarre Indonesian experiences to date — a Indonesian guy pulled up on his motorbike and joined me at my plastic table for a spot of dinner too. During our conversation of very limited English on his part and Indonesian on my part it transpired that he had 3 wives, loved disco dancing and enjoyed taking ecstasy! To prove this point he got out his phone showed my pictures of his wives and family and showed him dancing off his head, outside the scruffy little dinner that we were sat at! Who said Muslim countries were reserved?! Some parts of travelling never cease to amaze me. After broken conversations a lots of cups of coffee, a few photos to add to his collection no doubt he paid for my dinner and it was time to depart a little bemused and board the bus to Banda! I looked at the bus I was about to board and wondered how the hell i was going to make a 12 hour journey in the rickety old minibus that stood in front of me. Luckily for me this was the shuttle bus to take us to the larger AC bus round the corner. Aboard the very full and nice AC bus with reclining seats and with screaming children in the seat next to me, we set off on the very bumpy and winding road out of Medan. After the woman next to me sedated yep she did! They had the unfortunate prospect of sitting on small plastic chairs in the aisle of the bus, if you liked your own personal space this was not the time to fret about it. I soon sedated myself music via ipod and feel asleep only to be woken at 4am for a food stop. Interesting timing for a food stop seeing as we were only 30km from Banda! We were we soon arriving in Banda Aceh at 8am. Banda Aceh was one of the worst hit towns in the Tsunami of killing over 61, people in the process. Most of the town was obliterated by the floods and waves that smashed through this coast town and port. Since then a massive UN project has helped rebuild this city with the infrastructure needed. The roads in Banda are some of the best in Indonesia and the only structure that stood during the floods was the mosque in the centre of town, religious intervention some say. A short taxi ride to the port and by 9. At the port there we a collection of westerners all heading the same way so on arrival we all grouped to together and shared a mini bus to Gapang Beach on the northern side of Palau Wey. Gapang Beach is the main tourist destination for travellers to Palau Wey due to its excellent diving and quiet beaches. One of the main reasons for coming to Palau Wey was to dive and also a amazing wreck dive Gary and Trish had told me about called the Sophie Rickmer. This wreck dive was 60m deep and required no official PADI training that you need to go deeper than 40m. Although not PADI recognised it was a cheaper way to go deep more in another blog entry later. In Gapang bay there are only 3 dive shops, 5 restaurants and no tourists! A perfect getaway and I was amongst only a handful of people who had made the journey up here. I found nice accommodation 20m from the beach with a mandi a large basin of fresh water that you use to flush the toilet and use as a shower and toilet downstairs. Gapang Beach is all of m long so everything I needed for my 4 day stay was in touching distance. After unpacking I checked in with Lumba Lumba the recommended dive shop and enquired about diving in the days ahead. The beach has a very laid back feeling, the dive shop is owned by a Dutch coupe who moved there 10 years ago who like many of the businesses on the beach almost lost there business due to the Tsunami. As a community they all survived and rebuilt all the premises along the beach, a true feeling of community spirit. The beach also boasts an excellent house reef beautiful coral within 10m of the shore which provides great snorkelling and diving where you can see plenty of lionfish, ornate ghostpipe fish, razorfish and also a WWII mine diffused of course to swim amongst. A short boat ride away there are many diving spots amongst boulders, deep drop offs and some splendid corals and aquatic life. I enjoyed around 5 dives whilst I was on Gapang, all very different and worthwhile although my mind always raced back to how good the diving was on Komodo. Would I ever find anywhere that would match the Komodo liveaboard? I hope so. They were very lazy days on Gapang Beach, wake up dive, eat, sleep, dive, eat, sleep was the order of most days. Most evenings was enjoyed sampling the local food including the odd Taco, Indo style and chatting with fellow travellers from or visiting the dive shop. It was a great place to relax and chill out and I really understood why Gary and Trish had come here for one week and ended up staying a month. The sheer lack of tourists, beautiful beach and the great diving made this place one of my favourites of my journey so far. Unfortunately was on a slightly tighter schedule and having to think of getting my visa for India soon the four days passed very quickly and soon I had to head for the big smoke of Jakarta. There was however a stop on the way to place called Bukit Lawang to jungle trek and to hopefully see one of our most endangered primates — the Orang-utans of Sumatra. 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Water rising to our chests, an instruction was shouted to us and we all clambered into the boat. U pon receiving an invitation to attend an April destination wedding in Inhambane, Mozambique, my scuba diving yearnings immediately increased. Visions of brilliant blue warm-water currents flooded my mind. I expected to be swimming among shoals of brightly coloured Banner, Butterfly, Parrot and Snappers with all of the enjoyment that I could muster. After thorough online research, I decided on Tofu Scuba diving centre that was just under five kilometres from our beach resort. The staff at the resort, Farol da Barra, made us feel at home during the gentle evenings and in between my dives. The roaring ocean, a mere hundred meters from our first-floor balcony, and a freshwater pool at the restaurant ensured, if nothing else, we would have a liquid-filled time. The pool area was set back from the beach and shaded by lush coconut trees. From pizzas to freshly caught sea platters, the food kept me fuelled for the days of diving to come. At sunrise on my first dive day, I practically jumped into my fins I then took them off so that I could walk the along the beach to the dive centre. I challenged myself to walk this long, beautiful stretch of beach each morning as a preparation for my dives. I used it to get my mind ready to learn a new skill. The tranquillity of dawn was also a mood setter. After an hour and a half of bare-footed scurry along with the googly-eyed crabs, sweat beading down my smiling face, I reached the centre and introduced myself to the local and international staff of Tofo Scuba. I went through a thorough induction and pre-dive safety briefing. My instructor assisted me in selecting my five skills that would be covered in my course. Two of the five skills are mandatory: deep diving and navigation. The deep diving skill would allow me to advance from my current metre maximum depth to a metre maximum; the navigation skill would allow me to competently swim on a heading underwater. I had three skills choices and selected: fish identification, boat diving and drift diving. My first dive for the day would cover the boat skill. This would enable me to dive from a boat into the water as opposed to a shore entry — where one would normally walk from the beach and into the water. We were ready to get into the ocean so we kitted up with life vests. A weather-beaten tractor pushed the boat into the churning surf as we walked alongside and held onto the brim. With the pre-dive checks having successfully been completed, we rocked off backwards into the water and made a controlled descent to the seabed below. Following the dive master, we swam along the reefs outstretched fingers and saw abundant healthy tropical sea life. There was a school of brilliant blue Surgeon fish, yellow and white Bannerfish and one four foot Grouper that looked like it meant business. Once we were satisfied watching a leaf under water, we had reached our limit and made our way safely to the surface, popping our heads out into the sea air for our first direct fresh air in 35 minutes. I had successfully completed my first skill. Of the remaining skills, my favourite was fish identification. Sharks, jellyfish, barracuda, eels, scorpion fish, frogfish, many of the rainbow-coloured tropical fish — I was a marine dictionary with my hands. Besides the underwater leaf, the highlight was when my instructor gestured to me on my final dive. Before even turning, I knew what wonder awaited me. It was a titan of a leather head turtle. He or she was gracefully finning through the water effortlessly. It appeared to be flying, and I was right there to witness the marvel. Aside from the five-foot white-tipped reef shark, the turtle had really made my course-completing dive. I emerged from the water like a turtle would — beak first — as a successfully advanced diver. The wedding ceremony was spectacular with a fiery sunset and rolling surf as the backdrop. The surrounding landscape of wind-formed sand dunes, full-fruited coconut trees, mango-sized avocado pears and happy local inhabitants made for a special evening for the bride and groom. The newlyweds wore their smiles late into the night, as did we. Designed using Unos. Powered by WordPress. How I learnt to scuba dive on my way to a wedding By: Derek Krasser. On: May 20, In: Adventure Activities , Africa , Available for purchase. Tagged: advanced diving , beach , diving , Inhambane , Mozambique , ocean , scuba , scuba diving , sea , sea turtle , sunset , Surf , Tofu , Tofu scuba. The induction I went through a thorough induction and pre-dive safety briefing. The finale Of the remaining skills, my favourite was fish identification. Previous Post: Made for the wild. Next Post: Sweet for Napoleon.
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Gapang Bay, Palau Wey 2009
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Between Tofo and Tofinho along a growing coastline
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