The 10-Minute Pre-Purchase Routine: VIN Match, Decode, Records, Mechanic

Use these 4 checks to identify potential issues prior to purchasing a car. Most expensive problems are identified using these 4 checks: a mismatched VIN, decoded specifications that do not correspond to the advertisement specifications, the car has a messy record, or problems that a mechanic would detect.

Why is the VIN checked first?

Every car has a vehicle identification number (a 17-digit number). Each VIN serves as a "fingerprint" and identifies each car uniquely. All other checks (recalls, history, title status), are based upon the VIN; therefore, if the VIN is incorrect, all subsequent checks will be incorrect as well.

Quick fact: VINs never use the letters i,o, q, or Q because these can be confused with numbers.

Step 1: VIN Match (about 2 minutes)

Verify that the car you are looking at is the same car listed on the paperwork. Find the VIN in at least three different locations and compare them:

Dashboard VIN plate (located in the driver's side windshield)

Driver's door jamb (manufacturer's sticker)

Title and registration

Insurance card/listing (if seller shows one)

Each location should have the exact same Characters. Take a picture of each so you can review later.

Red flags at this point:

Dashboard plate is scratched, glued, or riveted

Door jamb sticker is missing or looks like it's been replaced

VIN on title doesn't match car

Seller is vague about where paperwork is

Mismatched vin's don't always mean fraud. Mismatched vin's may result from clerical errors, body repairs, etc. Buyer should ask questions and seek answers before buying. If the seller's explanation sounds unconvincing, then the buyer should leave.

Step 2: Decode (about 2 minutes)

Next, verify that the car is what the listing claims. A VIN is not random. Each part of the VIN tells something:

Characters 1-3: manufacturer and where the vehicle was built

Characters 4-8: model type, engine type, trim level, etc...

Character 9: check digit used to detect invalid vin's

Character 10: year of production

Character 11: plant where vehicle was produced

Characters 12-17: serial number

Wikipedia has a page on vehicle identification number which explains how the 17 Characters are arranged as well as the standards behind them.

Enter the VIN into any free decoder and compare results to ad. You are checking:

Year, make, model. Do the year, make & model match what the seller said?

Engine and trim level. Fully loaded listings when decoded show base trim levels is another common exaggeration.

Type of drivetrain and style of body. 2-wheel drive sold as Four Wheel Drive happens more often than people think.

If the Decode matches the listing, ask the seller why there is a difference. Sometimes honest mistakes occur. Other times a difference indicates everything you need to know about the seller.

Step 3: records (about 4 minutes)

Learn about the past of the car. Two quick checks will cover the basics.

Open safety recalls. Go to NHTSA.gov/recalls and enter VIN. See if there are any open safety recalls on the vehicle. Cost = $0. Time < 1 minute. Covers airbag, Brake system, fuel system issues, etc...

Having an open recall isn't automatically a deal breaker. Manufacturers generally fix recalls at no charge to the owner. However, having an open recall does indicate whether the seller maintained the vehicle and you have the right to know before leaving dealership.

Vehicle history report. Services such as Carfax and AutoCheck collect data from various sources including DMV records, insurers, repair shops and auction houses. These reports typically run between $25-$45 and many sellers or dealerships will provide you with a free copy. Look for:

Title status. Clean, salvage, rebuilt, flood-damaged, lemon buyback

History of damage and accidents

Readings on Odometer over time. Did readings rise steadily? Or were there gaps in readings?

How long did previous owners keep vehicle?

Location of vehicle. Vehicles originating from areas prone to flooding or heavy salt application require special considerations

As mentioned earlier - a clean report does not guarantee a clean car. Not every Accident or repair gets reported. Treat report as filter - not certificate.

Step 4: mechanic (about 2 minutes to schedule inspection + inspection time)

This step is usually skipped by buyers and saves the most money.

Independent pre-purchase inspections cost approximately $100-$200 depending upon location and type of vehicle. Professional will lift vehicle to inspect items that can't be seen in a driveway:

Damage to frame and signs of previous repairs

Underneath rust and leaks

Leaks under fluids and worn out suspension parts

Brake, tire, engine condition

Error codes hidden by dashboard light

Pick independent shop yourself - not recommended by seller. Independent shop has no reason to give easy pass on car. If seller refuses allowance of inspection then message has already been sent - leave.

$150 inspection saves $2,500+ transmission problem is best $150 spent ever. Even if news mixed provides buyer leverage to negotiate price down or request seller to fix specific items prior to purchase.

Combine steps together

Here is full routine listed on single page:

VIN Match: compare VIN at three places or more. Must agree.

Decode: verify year make model and engine fit listing specifications.

Records: check NHTSA for open recalls. Pull history report.

Mechanics: get independent inspection prior to payment.

If any of steps discover issue that cannot explain pause. Good car still good tomorrow and seller who has nothing to hide won't rush.

Additional habits worth developing:

Never pay deposit until you've verified VIN and visually checked vehicle.

Avoid wire transfers and gift cards with private sellers. Better payment methods leave paper trail.

Take VIN to DMV (or check your state's online tools) to verify title status and registered in seller's name.

Trust instincts. If story continues to change, you're allowed to leave