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Rancho Santa Margarita teen wins OC Fair market turkey competition
Morgan Ulrich, right, of Rancho Santa Margarita, and a graduate of Trabuco Hills High School, , lifts Milkshake, a tom turkey, to be judge by Francine Bradley, left, during the division 1002 Single Market Turkeys competition at the Orange County Fair on Saturday in Costa Mesa. Milkshake won the Grand Champion Market Tom Turkey award.
By Aaron Orlowski | Orange County Register
Two teens waddled turkey-like over the two turkeys, carefully guiding them through the swirling crowd and to the show ring at the Orange County Fair Saturday.
The turkeys were immaculately clean – one white, one a bronze-black with white highlights on its tail feathers. They were slated to be judged, ranked and, in a week, sold at auction for probable butchering and eating.
The livestock competition at the fair is one of the few remaining indications of Orange County’s farming past, and a way for students of agriculture to show off their skills and knowledge.
Few students in Orange County can raise animals at home because of zoning and space restrictions, so the only place for them to do so is at school, said Kim Miller, the livestock coordinator at the fair. But a lot of local high schools don’t have agriculture programs.
“Orange County has become so disconnected from the agriculture here,” said parent Pam Ragland, whose daughter, Sydnee Ragland, an incoming freshman at Trabuco Hills High School, won reserve champion, or second place, for all the turkeys.
The kids participating are learning where their food comes from, added Ragland, who buys meat at the auction, since the animals are well-raised and free of the antibiotics found so commonly in meat on grocery store shelves.
Saturday’s crossing of the crowd, it turned out, was the most hazardous part of the morning. Passererby cut in front of the turkeys and one nearly made a break for it, but was quickly chased down by its handler.
Standing at the entrance to the arena, about 10 teens waited and milled about, most of them dressed in bright white jeans and pressed white shirts. The sun was hot, but the shade was cool.
They hovered over their turkeys, which clucked and shuffled. Some were nervous.
“Her face gets really red and irritated when she’s upset,” said Morgan Ulrich, who just graduated from Trabuco Hills High School and lives in Rancho Santa Margarita. The turkey’s face, normally speckled pale pink and white, was bright red. “She’s wondering, ‘Why am I moving? Why did you bring me across this yard of goats and people?’” The turkey was under four months old.
Ulrich, who wants to be a veterinarian but intends to travel Europe before starting college, probably in Germany, actually entered two turkeys Saturday: one 26-pound hen and one 43-pound tom. The tom, or male, turkey sat in green fabric wheelbarrow. He was too heavy, and lazy, to walk very far on his own.
Last-minute instructions for the teens came from Francine Bradley, a professor emeritus at UC Davis who has judged the poultry contest at the Orange County Fair for 20 years. When you hold the turkey, she said, hold it sideways and grip the near leg and the far wing. Turkeys are strong, she said; they can break your arm. “I don’t want to see anybody do a wrap-around bear hug,” Bradley said.
It was time. The teens filed into the arena and line up, straddling their intermittently clucking turkeys. One turkey hunkered down on the wood shavings; others eyed their competitors warily and occasionally tried to bolt. Fans hanging from the tented tin roof moved the air and the crowd chattered.
Bradley walked down the line, closely inspecting each turkey’s rear. For Bradley’s second pass, each teen lifted their turkey and held it upside down by the legs so its breast faced forward as its wings spread open. One flapped furiously, sending wood shavings flying, and her handler struggled to hold on. She did. The crowd cheered.
Bradley inspected each bird’s wings, belly and toes, asking questions of the teenagers. Then she inspected five of them again. A few feathers fluttered to the ground.
Bradley took the microphone. For these hens, she looked for birds weighing at least 25 pounds. Most turkeys sold in the U.S. are processed into parts, so “you’re going to get a lot more product and potential profit from a bigger bird,” she said.
One bird, Bradley lamented, would not be able to go to auction for sale. The bird had, probably, gotten in a fight with another bird, and its breast was scarred. The scarring wouldn’t pass inspection.
Two other birds had severely burned foot pads from standing in wet straw that had a build-up of ammonia. They could still be auctioned.
Bradley announced that Ulrich’s bird had won, and her friends in the audience hooted and clapped. She ended up winning both categories, and the turkey competition overall.
Later, standing by her turkey pen, Ulrich said that she used to raise goats, but now just raises chickens and turkeys – which are a breed genetically modified to grow quicker and produce more meat.
She grows them without antibiotics and feeds them a healthy diet: fruits, vegetables, some grain to supplement and a little corn before butchering. “They are treated with kindness and compassion,” she said. “There’s no toxins in the animals. They’ve never been abused.”
Ulrich recommends butchering the turkeys, not keeping them as pets. At about nine months old, their legs threaten to break because the birds are too heavy with meat. Their overlarge breasts constrict the chest cavity and breathing.
But when butchering, “use every single part of the animal,” she urged.
Outside, as the crowds grew, smoke rose from the lines of grills on which rows upon rows of turkey legs roasted.
Contact the writer: aorlowski@ocregister.com. Twitter: @aaronorlowski
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