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Travel Guide South America Peru. Peru 's irresistible attraction is impossible to pinpoint: with its stunning Andean landscapes, large slice of tropical untouched rainforest and breathtaking remnants of one of the oldest ancient civilizations, it really does have it all and is spectacular. Indeed, the amazing Incan ruins of Machu Picchu are almost enough incentive for any trip to Peru. Considered one of the forgotten wonders of the modern world, the city was built in the sixteenth century as a holy city on the mountain of Machu Picchu by the Incan emperor. Overlooking the Urubambu River and the formidable Andean ranges, travellers to the city will undoubtedly find it a surreal destination. That said, Peru's array of attractions ensures that travellers will find themselves in the pleasant dilemma of picking which one to focus their attention on. Over the following three thousand years, inhabitants switched from nomadic lifestyles to cultivating land, as evidence from sites such as Jiskairumoko, Kotosh, and Huaca Prieta demonstrates. The first more familiar cultures are the Norte Chico civilization, from c. The Paracas culture emerged on the southern coast around BC. The Incas created the vastest dynasty of pre-Columbian America. The empire reached its greatest extension at the beginning of the sixteenth century. It dominated a territory that included from north to south Ecuador, part of Colombia, the northern half of Chile, and the north-west part of Argentina; and from west to east, from Bolivia to the Amazonian forests and Peru. The empire originated from a tribe based in Cuzco, which became the capital. Francisco Pizarro and his brothers were attracted by the news of a rich and fabulous kingdom. In , they arrived in the country, which they called Peru. Taking advantage of this, Pizarro c. When Huascar was killed, the Spanish tried and convicted Atahualpa of the murder, executing him by strangulation. A census taken by the last Quipucamayoc indicated that there were 12 million inhabitants of Inca Peru; 45 years later, under viceroy Toledo, the census figures amounted to only 1,1 million Indians. Lima was established as a center for many political and administrative institutions. In , the Viceroyalty of Peru was built to unite Spanish royal authority over its vast territories across South America that includes Colombia , Panama , Ecuador and half of Venezuela. Jose de San Martin of Argentina proclaimed the independence of Peru in Lima on July 28, as a result of many uprisings towards independence. Soon after, Peru engaged in many intermittent territorial disputes conflicts with its neighbors such as Bolivia , Chile , and Ecuador. Political and economic stability were attained during the early s, after the Pacific War was over and the government begun initiating numerous social reforms. After a dozen years of military rule, Peru returned to democratic leadership in , but experienced economic problems and the growth of a violent insurgency. President Alberto Fujimori's election in ushered in a decade that saw a dramatic turnaround in the economy and significant progress in curtailing guerrilla activity. The presidential election of saw the return of Alan Garcia who, after a disappointing presidential term from to , returned to the presidency with promises to improve social conditions and maintain fiscal responsibility. Peru has 3 main geographical regions: the coast, the Andes mountains and the jungle around the Amazon River. The weather and landscape varies distinctly because of this clear division into 3 regions. The coastal strip is a dry and relatively cool area, especially when you consider that it is actually in the tropics. But the cold Humboldt Current means that cold air, which is heavier than warm air, stays below the warm air. It is also drier, which means less rain fall, so some areas don't see more than about 50 mm of rain a year, sometimes less, although foggy and cloudy days are much more common. Nothing much grows here, nor in the Andes or Amazon areas. Instead, there is a fertile zone in between the coastal area and the Andes , where weather conditions are fine enough to grow crops and raise some stock. Behind this zone the Andes towers up to over 6, metres, one of the highest mountain ranges in the western hemisphere. Then the land drops dramatically again towards the low-lying area of the Amazon basin, where tropical rainforest and rivers are the norm - and roads, people and bearable temperatures are not. The Northern Coast is characterized by having a vastly different climate and geography than the rest of the country. Moving east the shift from subtropical desert to tropical dry forests is noticeable. These are composed of shrubs, trees, ferns and wildlife contains crocodiles, reptiles, iguanas, boa constrictors, anteater and sloth. The use of land is primarily forests and woodland, while permanent pasture falls short next to permanent crop and arable land. The country faces many natural hazards, such as earthquakes, tsunamis, flooding, landslides, and mild volcanic activity. As the largest portion of land in the country is dedicated forests and woodlands it is no surprise that illegal deforestation is one of the primary environmental issues. Overgrazing cattle is a problem that in the last few decades, has become paramount. This leads to desertification, air pollution, and pollution of rivers, and ground water. Because of these environmental concerns, and municipal and mining damage, the country has signed the climate change protocol, the Kyoto Protocol. The following is a list of geographical regions and the 25 administrative regions plus a province Lima they are divided into. There is also a administrative region, called Lima, so it gets confusing sometimes. Machu Picchu does not need a real introduction, since it's one of the most famous attractions in Peru, South America and the world at large. Not known to the outside world until about years ago, when it was rediscovered by Hiram Bingham, this former Inca city can only be reached by train or by a multi day hike on the Inca Trail. The Colca Canyon is a very spectacular landscape in the south of Peru and although it can be done as a daytrip from Arequipa, it needs at least several days to explore, both by car and on foot. The deepest part of the canyon reaches a depth of over 3, metres and travelling to the canyon will mean you have to travel by car up to 4, metres. This can be literally a breathtaking experience. You will be rewarded with magnificent views and great wildlife, like vicunas wild relative of llama and alpaca and the mighty Andean condor. For the adventurous types there are multiple day hikes, with camping en route. Mountains to be climbed include Mount Huascaran 6, metres above sea level and it is best to base yourself in the town of Huaraz first. The park ranges in elevation from to 4, metres above sea-level, meaning high biological diversity in this area and is therefore on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Over species of birds call this park home and species like the giant otter and the giant armadillo also live in this great park. Even jaguars are often sighted in the park. The park is most easliy reached by a minute flight from Cusco. The Nazca Lines are located in the south of Peru, about kilometres south of the capital Lima and represent one of those almost unearthy experience you can have on our planet when you fly above them. The historical cities of Lima and Arequipa are both on the Unesco World Heritage list and represent one of the finest examples of colonial building styles in the country. Arequipa is one of the most favorites cities amongst travellers in Peru with its integration of European and native building techniques and characteristics. If you are into Inca culture and history the city of Cuzco and the nearby Sacred Valley is the place to be, with small cities like Urubamba , Ollantaytambo and Pisac. Although Puno itself is not of particular interest, it is a perfect base to explore Lake Titicaca and its islands, including the floating Uros Islands. Although the latter ones are relatively touristy it nevertheless is worth visiting. One also glimpses the historic churches of the colonial period, which become the meeting sites of some of the largest annual celebrations and dances. The park is home to a large number of species of flora and fauna, as well as the location of over 30 pre-Columbian archaeological sites. Since , the park has not been open to tourism due to the fragile nature of both the natural and archaeological environment. The yellow-tailed woolly monkey, Oreonax flavicauda, previously thought to be extinct, is known to live in the park and appears to be endemic to the region. It was mostly due to this monkey's critically endangered status that the area gained national park status and was placed on the list of World Heritage Sites in Many other animals inhabit the park including the elusive jaguar, but also spider monkeys, King vulture, Spectacled bear and the armadillo. Like many other countries in the Amazon Rainforest , Peru offers the opportunity to travel along the mighty Amazon river from Pucallpa all the way to the border with Brazil and Colombia. There are some fine opportunities to base yourself in forest lodges from the city of Iquitos in the northeast of the country, the largest city in the world only to be reached by boat or plane. This area contains the lowest pass route of the Andes to arrive at the Pan-American road system. Peru offers one of the most scenic mountain ranges in the continent and Huascaran National Park in the Cordillera Blanca is probably the most spectactular. Generally, Peru has a dry and cool season from June to September and a wetter, warmer season from December to February. But both temperature and rainfall or snow in the mountains vary enormously according to elevation or the geographical zone it is in. For example, rainfall is almost non-existent along the coastline and Lima has very little rainfall a year. South from Lima, the Atacama desert goes years without a single drop of rain at all. Higher, at 3, metres, Cusco has even colder temperatures with nights below zero in July and August and a distinct rainy season from December to March. A rather alternative way of leaving the country is by water plane from Iquitos to the triple frontier with Brazil and Colombia in the Amazon. The only possible way of entering Peru by train is from Chile. There are several trains a week from Arica , Chile to Tacna in Peru. Crossings are possible to and from Ecuador , Chile and Colombia. Crossings to Brazil are quite difficult and require a 4x4 vehicle. Have your documentation and insurance and driver's licence in order. Peru has good bus connections with neighbouring countries and even beyond to countries like Colombia. Also, buses make their way from Lima south and north along the Panamerican Highway towards Santiago de Chile and all the way north to Quito and on to Bogota. There are not many border crossings in the Amazon but from Puerto Maldonado you can take buses to the border of Brazil, where you have to cross the river by foot and take buses from there onwards. Crossing the border actually can be done on foot or by boat and is between Inapari Peru and Assis Brazil Brazil , from where it is a further 4. Lake Titicaca has some expensive options for getting to Peru from Bolivia or the other way around. A more realistic option of leaving Peru by boat is from Iquitos to the triple frontier with Brazil and Colombia, travelling the mighty Amazon river. This takes about 10 hours by fast boat and 2 days by slow boat. There also is a crossing in the extreme southeast close to Bolivia where you can cross the Rio Acre by ferry from Inapari to Assia Brazil. Finally, there are even possibilities to get a cargo ship to Ecuador about once every 10 days. There is a good internal flight network operated by LAN Peru among others. This doesn't apply to all cities though and although there are plans for direct flights between for example Cusco and Iquitos, it still involves flying to Lima first. Check the Peru Rail website for more information. There are also tourist service on renovated trains between Lima and Huancayo , usually twice each month. This spectacular route is the second highest railway in the world after the railway in Tibet was completed recently. For more information regarding schedule and prices, including buying tickets, check the Ferro Carril Central website. The Pan American highway runs through or at least nearby to all the major cities close to the coast. Heading inland and into the Andes roads between major cities are largely in good condition and mostly tarmac. However straying from these roads will usually involve travelling on dirt tracks of varying grades, during the rainy season road travel can take considerably longer and some roads may be impassable. Roads in the Amazon are particularly perilous and ideally you would want a 4x4. Places like Iquitos aren't even accessible by land so need to go here. To discover Peru by car is a comfortable way and highly recommendable, but for travelling securely you should observe two things: take a good road map with you and travel well informed about your route. If you want you can rent cars in major cities and airports from companies such as Hertz and Avis. The minimum age to rent a car is Peru has and an excellent and cheap bus network that runs between all the major towns and tourist attractions. They range from the cheap and crowded local buses to the air conditioned first class inter city buses with tvs, reclining seats and hostess services, but even these are cheap compared to other countries. Longer trips often have overnight buses available and if you buy one of the better class tickets you will easily be able to sleep. There are numerous companies and one of the biggest and most reliable is Cruz del Sur. Also, Ormeno is recommended for being punctual and has reliable and frequent services between most major cities and towns. For an overview of schedules and connections, also international ones, see thebusschedule. Travelling by boat in Peru usually is a good way to get around in the Amazonian area. There are services between Pucallpa and Iquitos , taking 4 days downstream and up to week upstream. From Iquitos, you can travel further to the border with Colombia and Brazil at Tabatinga , taking 1 or 2 days on a slowboat, much less on one of the regular fast boats. There are also boats on Lake Titicaca , if you want to visit several islands including the floating islands on a tour from Puno. Finally, you can get to several of the islands off the coast of Peru, including tours to the Ballestas Islands , where there is an abundance of wildlife waiting for you. Chinese including Macau and India citizens holding US, UK, Canada, Australia, Schengen countries' visas or permanent residence receive a visa upon arrival for up to days check with the nearest Peruvian Embassy or the Ministry of Foreign Affairs for most updated information, although in Spanish. There you get a stamp in your passport that states the number of days you are allowed to stay usually days. You can no longer get an extension, so make sure that you ask for the amount of time you think you'll need. When those days are up and you would like to stay for longer, you can either cross the border to a neighbouring country Ecuador, Colombia, Brazil, Bolivia or Chile and return the next day and obtain another days or simply overstay and pay the fine when you exit. Many people do this, since it's much cheaper than leaving the country and returning. Travelling to and from neighboring countries by land is no problem. US dollars are widely accepted and prices for hotels and flights are often quoted in USD. You will not have trouble changing Pounds Sterling or Euros in the cities. All of the tourist cities and towns have cambios where you can change money, and often you will find people changing money on the street sometimes they offer a better deal, sometimes they will rip you off so take care if using the street changers. There are lots of jobs to be had in the mining industries and teaching English. Becoming a translator is also a great way to be employed in Peru. There is also a great tourist scene in Peru, so one could start a service such as providing city tours or making souvenirs to appeal to the tourist crowd. At any rate, the ability to speak Spanish will be very helpful in landing a job in Peru. In the second half of the mining industry began scaling up in a big way and became the largest producer of several mining commodities. The country benefited from these high priced commodities, and the country's economic upturn started here. Peru in one of the best places in South America to learn Spanish and there are many language schools offering Spanish courses. There are quite a few options, with some of the best ones being:. Related article: Spanish: Grammar, pronunciation and useful phrases. Spanish is widely spoken and understood in cities and towns across the country. However further out in the countryside you will hear tribal languages, notably Quechua in the Andes. Especially when you're making your own way around, learning some Quechua or Aymara may open doors, as indigenous people will highly appreciate your effort. Quecha is the language of the Incas and the first language for many indigenous in the countryside of the Sierra. Aymara was the language of the Tihuanacu culture. Though not recognized as an official language, it's widely spoken on the Altiplano. Latin American Spanish, and Peruvian Spanish, do differ slightly in pronunciation. Also, there is a difference with European Spanish, though it is unlikely that you will not be understood if you are speaking European Spanish. Peru has many schools offering Spanish courses. Some phrases you'll want to learn before your trip, but are considered slang:. Trying to learn Quechua, the language of the Incas, is highly appreciated in the countryside of the Sierra, where many indigenous speak it as a first language. Here is a list of recommended phrases in Quechua:. Peru has a wide range of traditional foods as well as the ever popular pollerias chicken restaurants. Traditional meats include Guinea Pig and Alpaca , though by far the most popular meat is chicken. There are many traditional dishes such as lomo saltado stir fried beef strips, onion, pepper and chips , empanadas shredded meat wrapped in pastry and deep fried and ceviche raw fish marinated in lime juice - be picky where you eat this as it's particularly susceptible to bugs. It is recommended that you choose an establishment with a safe box or locker. Hostels rand in ranking from 1 - 5 stars, and while they are uncommon outside of the city of Lima. One star hostels are not particularly bad but there is no hot water, nor might it be in a particularly safe neighbourhood. Peru is the world's largest producer of organic coffee. Ask for 'cafe pasado', the essence produced by pouring boiling hot water over fresh ground coffee from places like Chanchamayo. Beer is nice, stronger than American brands but less full bodied than European ones. Some large towns have their own brand of beer which is hard to get elsewhere in the country. You can find breweries in the larger towns, which is the recommended experience. Coca Tea or Mate de Coca is a tea made from the leaves of the coca plant. It is legal to drink this tea in Peru. It is great for adjusting to the altitude or after a heavy meal. It may be found cold but normally is served hot. Emoliente is another popular drink in Peru, often sold in the streets by vendors for 50 centimos. Served hot, its flavor is best described as a thick, viscous tea, but surprisingly refreshing. Inca Kola is the Peruvian equivalent of Coca Cola in the rest of the world, which was recently purchased by Coca Cola yet retains its unique taste. It is bright yellow and has its own unique flavor. Some say it tastes like bubblegum. Pisco Sour is an alcoholic drink with an interesting ingredients list, such as egg whites, that is the main drink in Peru and is available in most places. See also Travel Health. There are no vaccinations legally required to travel to Peru. It's a good thing to get your vaccinations in order before travelling to Peru. Also a hepatitis A and yellow fever only for the eastern parts in the Amazon vaccination is recommended and vaccination against hepatitis B , tuberculosis , rabies and typhoid are also sometimes recommended for stays longer than 3 months. Malaria is prevalent in the country, but only below 2, metres in the east of the country and along the border with Ecuador. It is recommended to take malaria pills and take other normal anti-mosquito precautions as well. Dengue sometimes occurs as well. Also wear long sleeves if possible. Finally, other possible health issues include diarrhea and other general travellers' diseases like motion sickness. Watch what you eat and drink and in case you get it, drink plenty of fluids to prevent dehydration and bring ORS. It offers specialized individual attention to travellers, and give direction to companies, public and private institutions through consultancies and conferences. If you have any medical problems you can visit a pharmacy farmacia in most towns and cities who will be able to give you tablets for many problems, eg cipro for a badly upset stomach, or antibiotics for chest infections. Medicine is cheap and the pharmacist will give advice for free. If you need stitching up or want to seek proper medical attention even the smallest of villages will usually have a clinic where you can be seen by a doctor for next to nothing. There is a high security presence in cities like Lima and Cusco that are popular with tourists and you should safe from any violent crimes in the main areas of these cities. You should also try to use only official taxis, which will normally have large stickers on the wind screen and the number plate written on the rearside panel of the car. Still, even in those cases, taxi drivers are sometimes involved in robbing tourists. That way the taxi is registrated in the general system. Try to travel with older equipment, as it will look like you don't have much to take. You should also be aware of pickpockets, and try to make their job harder by carrying a neck wallet, or no wallet and only cash, either in your backpack carried on you or in your various pockets. By Peruvian law, you are able to keep small amounts of drugs on your person, for personal use, and not for sale. This law protects you only as long as you carry only one type of drug. Do not purchase drugs from someone on the street or a dealer. Buying or selling drugs, or carrying more than 8 grams per person is illegal. If you do run into problems you should seek the tourist police who will be able to help you. However, if you're reporting a theft then it can take hours to fill in the forms as the police are cracking down on tourists making false claims which unfairly make the country look like it suffers from higher crime rates than it actually does. If you need immediate assistance, it is best to locate the police in white t-shirts, instead of the countries green shirts. These usually speak English and can be quite helpful. More and more hotels, resorts, airports, cafes, and retailers are going Wi-Fi wireless fidelity , becoming 'hotspots' that offer free high-speed Wi-Fi access or charge a small fee for usage. In Peru, by far the easiest way to check your e-mail and surf the Web is to drop in at the Internet cabinas booths that can be found in virtually every city and even small towns. Aside from formal cybercafes, most youth hostels and many hotels nowadays have at least one computer with Internet access. See also International Telephone Calls. Emergency numbers include Police , Ambulance and Fire. In all towns and villages that are not too small, it is no problem to find public telephones for national and international calls. Many public phones can be expensive, and an attractive alternative is a Locutorio, or 'call-center'. Typical rates include. Phone cards are cheap and easily available from shops or vendors who hang around pay phones. You'll often see people with a bundle of mobile phones who act as pay phones, they'll be shouting 'llamadas'. Telephone booths are primarily used for making local calls. Calling to other countries from Peru is expensive. If you have an unlocked cell phone you can buy local SIM cards. Movistar and Claro are two of the phone companies in Peru. You can buy your sim card from these companies and buy a phone card also. Your best, cheapest bet for making international calls from Peru is to head to any Internet cafe with an international calling option. If you have your own Skype or similar account, you just need to find an Internet cafe that provides a computer with a headset. Check the Serpost website, the national postal service a private company , for more information about prices and options regarding the sending of postcards, letters and parcels. The post service is relatively efficient and post offices can be found in most cities and larger towns. Post offices generally are open from am to pm Monday to Saturday and some are open on Sundays from am to pm. Postcards are available from street vendors and shops at any touristy area, and stamps are generally available as well, though sometimes only at the post office itself. For little extra money, you can choose 'expresso' services. I explored a decent part of Peru during a month-long visit. I travel to Peru often since my brother and sister still live there. I can give you advice and some helpful hints about where to stay and where to go, the good, bad and ugly. But all and all, it is a great place to visit and if you can go to Macchu Piccu, it is worth the additional few days. I did the Inka Trail in , great experience!! All about Places, ruins, food, discos, guides, buses, prices, hotels, flights, restaurants, tickets, museums, beaches, Spanish classes, city tours. I am Luis from Peru, and I can help you. I have been travelling around my country, and I would like to share my experiences, and advices to make your trip safe and unforgettable. Any tips? Get in touch, so. Of course we've also spent a lot of time tasting and eating the amazing cuisine. View all Travel Helpers for Peru Become a Travel Helper for Peru. This is version Last edited at on Oct 10, 23 by Utrecht. Except where otherwise noted, content of this article is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3. Login Join. Known as 'The White City' due to the fact that many of the cities buildings are made from a white volcanic rock, it lies at approximately 2, metres, giving it a pleasent year round temperature. It is also the gateway to the Colca Canyon. Cusco is the 'capital' of the Incas and the most famous city in Peru. Huaraz is a base for trekking and climbing the Andes , with the Huascaran the being the biggest challenge. Iquitos is the largest city in the world which you can not reach by road, only by river or air. Lima is the capital and biggest city along the Pacific coast. Nazca is famous for the Nazca Lines. Pisco was the center of a horrible earthquake a few years ago and the access point to the poor man's galapagos Puno is gateway to Lake Titicaca. Tacna is the southermost city, right on the border with Chile Trujillo is on the north coast and has stunning beaches with great surfing. Inti Raymi is a celebration dedicated to the sun and takes place every year on the 24th of June. On the days before Inti Raymi there are daily parades in the city centre of Cusco. La Virgen de la Candelaria - Folk music and dance celebrations, most notable around Puno. Starting on Feb 2nd and lasting for around 2 weeks. This festival is set yearly to honor the patron saint of the city of Puno, in central Peru. It s among the three largest festivals in the country. Be prepared to get wet as this is often celebrated by weeks of water fights. Semana Santa - This is celebrated the week before Easter Sunday and consists of dramatic religious processions almost daily. The best places to witness these processions are in Ayacucho, Arequipa and Huaraz. Corpus Christi - Held on the 9th Thursday after Easter, these processions are especially dramatic in Cusco. During the month of July you'll be hard pressed to find a building without the national flag being displayed. This is a religious procession celebrated in Lima on October 18th where everyone wears purple. Fiesta de la Purisima Concepcion - Another national holiday held on December 8th. Celebrated with religious processions in honor of the Virgin Mary. Traditionally the local housing will become decorated with the national colors, and proves to be a sight. THe event starts with a procession of characters for the patron saint Joseph, and bull fighting sessions throughout the week. Lord of Huaman Festival - One of the countries oldest festivals, also a patronal feast, celebrated annually. Taking place in the town of Santiago De Huaman. The festival is held during the middle of May, and the main festival celebration takes place on the 17th. On the main procession day, special celebration include flag hoisting, a large solem festival-wide mass chaired by the current archbishop of the local town of Trujillo. Afterwards the fest begins and the traditional food of the alfajores are sold around the festival. Trujillo Book Festival - Lasting from one to twelve days, this international literacy festival, held at the historic centre in Trujillo , has been active since Seeing participant numbers in the hundreds of thousands take part in tributes, lecture circuits, presentations, and various readings. Competition of Paso Horses in Trujillo - The Paso horse is considered to be at the forefront of the Nation's heritage. The competition is aligned with many of the city of Trujillos festivals and includes the Capital of Marinera dance, one of the most important symbols of the nation. By Train The only possible way of entering Peru by train is from Chile. By Bus Peru has good bus connections with neighbouring countries and even beyond to countries like Colombia. By Boat Lake Titicaca has some expensive options for getting to Peru from Bolivia or the other way around. By Car The Pan American highway runs through or at least nearby to all the major cities close to the coast. By Bus Peru has and an excellent and cheap bus network that runs between all the major towns and tourist attractions. By Boat Travelling by boat in Peru usually is a good way to get around in the Amazonian area. Postcard shot of Mt. Bamba counterfeit goods. Tengo mucha hambre - I'm very hungry. Tengo sed - I'm thirsty. Here is a list of recommended phrases in Quechua: Rimaykullayk - Hello. Tupananchiskama - Goodbye. The Pisco-Nasca area is famous for wine cultivating. Post Check the Serpost website, the national postal service a private company , for more information about prices and options regarding the sending of postcards, letters and parcels. Ask areinstein a question about Peru luisjesus Hello friends!! Enjoy your trip Traveller!! Accommodation in Peru Explore your accommodation options in Peru.

The Trials of Drug ‘Mules’ in Chile’s Northern Desert

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Everyone laughed except Ramiro Chambi. The judge had read him the police report in the courtroom: Bolivian national Ramiro Jacinto Chambi, age 26, was arrested last Friday at 8 p. The young man answered that he did, but that there was a mistake concerning the packets. The courtroom broke out in laughter; they thought it was a joke. Nobody understood why the accused would say he was carrying more drugs than what the police report said. The young man doubted it. The judge sentenced him to five years and a day in prison. This article originally appeared in Domingo El Universal and was translated and reproduced with permission. See Spanish original here. Nearly two years later, in January , Ramiro was still mulling over what happened during the trial. He went over what had happened the night that they caught him again and again, as though this would help him discover something that until then had escaped him. He said to himself that in a while they might let him go for good behavior. That way he could go home. Ramiro pictured left lived in the city of El Alto, next to La Paz. By day he worked in a textile factory sewing backpacks. By night he studied business administration. He visited Arica for the first time in An uncle of his lived there. Soon he realized that clothes there were much cheaper than in Bolivia. So were cell phones and cameras. After that, he started going to Arica every few weeks. Some of his classmates had clothing stores in La Paz and would put in orders when he went. Ramiro liked it — he felt important buying merchandise in Arica and selling it in La Paz. It was an extra salary. Arica is an important city for Bolivia. Some 80 percent of the merchandise that enters and leaves this port is going to or coming from Bolivia. Dozens of trucks arrive each day from La Paz and Santa Cruz, loaded with wood and soy. Others exit Chile loaded with industrial machinery and other manufactured goods. While lying on a patch of grass next to this port, resting, Ramiro would observe the Bolivian truckers that — like him — traveled frequently to the city. He would comb through the markets in central Arica; play soccer with his uncle; and go for walks. During his final trip, in March , everything was the same as always. On Thursday, March 15, he played a game alongside his uncle. Ramiro was planning to take the bus Friday night, so he had that next morning free. His uncle was working, and, feeling restless, he went back to the soccer pitch. When he arrived, two teams were playing a match. Roberto, a Peruvian, invited him to join. When they finished, they stayed to talk. Roberto told him that he was managing a restaurant just a few blocks away. He invited him to have lunch and Ramiro accepted. They made small talk about their work and their studies — a superficial conversation, nothing important. After a while, Roberto offered him a job. Ramiro asked what the job was and his companion responded that it was something very simple. The young Bolivian said that he was actually headed back to La Paz that night, and Roberto said it was no problem — the job would only take him a little while in the afternoon. Ramiro thought about it. At that moment, he had already guessed what it had to do with, but when he heard the response, he knew he had to accept. Dozens of Bolivian citizens are held in prison in northern Chile for trafficking small quantities of drugs. The majority arrive by bus; a few make the trip on foot. The number of Peruvians held in Arica for trafficking is also high. In December , according to the Peruvian consulate, there were Ramiro seemed like an atypical prisoner. Drug couriers — the mules, the burreros, the people who transport drugs in vehicles, luggage, under their clothes or even, often, using their body as a container for the product — are normally caught at the border. If they come from Bolivia, the police wait for them at the Chungara border crossing, at more than 5, meters above sea level. If they come from Peru, the agents wait at the Chacalluta crossing, just a few kilometers from the coast, with dogs trained to search for narcotics and an x-ray machine. The rest of the mules that we met in prison had been captured at the border with hundreds of grams of cocaine inside of them. Sara Calisaya, a native of Santa Cruz, in eastern Bolivia, was carrying grams in her stomach when they caught her. She was 18 years old. When she used to attend school, she wanted to study chemistry and open a pharmacy. Her mother worked at home and her father worked carrying sacks of rice. Sometimes her parents fought and her dad took off for a few days. After one of the fights, her dad left and never came back. Later, her mother developed a heart problem and the money started to get scarce. A school companion proposed that she start dealing marijuana. A while later, her friend told her about a woman who organized trips to Chile to transport drugs, and about the money she could make. Sara, desperate, accepted again. On January 5, Sara went to the place her friend had told her about. It was located in an elegant neighborhood on the outskirts of Santa Cruz, in the town of Montero. The front of the house was painted a beautiful sky blue color. Behind the black gate, in the garden, several ceramic ducks adorned the entrance. The lady was named Myriam. Sara waited in the garden to be let in. Myriam had two cars and a bunch of motorcycles in the garage. Sitting astride one of the motorcycles, smiling, a man with gold teeth stared at her. They had seen each other before at school. The man came looking for girls like her to turn them into mules. Her friend had told her that he was a friend of hers. She saw a living room and a TV, a table with a tablecloth, and several computers — as though it were an internet cafe. Myriam told her to continue on to the following room. Unlike the previous one, the walls of this room were worn down and unpainted. There was just one table in the middle. It was a wooden table without a tablecloth, surrounded by various chairs. Another three girls were waiting there. Myriam, who was about twice their age, said that it was an easy job. Sara pictured right would never have gone to that house if she had had a choice, but her mother was sick, and needed a pacemaker. She thought nothing would happen, anyway, but she had no choice. She decided that she would swallow nearly a kilo of drugs and cross the border between Bolivia and Chile. She would become a mule. Myriam took out a roll of plastic to cover a corner of the room. Then she went to the fridge, took out a dish full of carrot chunks and put it on the table. Myriam said unenthusiastically that the pieces of carrot resembled the cocaine capsules they would have to swallow, which were about the size of a thumb. She said the exercise would help prepare their throats and esophagi. Everyone had to swallow five pieces before they started. He started to pressure them. Myriam placed 78 cocaine capsules in front of Sara, in several rows. She would be the first. They looked like hardened fingers, pills to cure the headache of an elephant. With the encouragement of the hostess, she started to swallow. She felt a pain in her stomach from the very beginning, but Myriam told her it was normal. In a few minutes, the adolescent girl swelled to the size of a woman who was three months pregnant. For a full day, her body would carry grams of cocaine, while she hoped that no capsule would break, that the plastic would hold. If anything happened, she would die in just a few hours. A little while after swallowing the capsules, Sara and the lady travelled to Cochabamba, eight hours from Santa Cruz. It was the first stage of a journey that Sara would finish alone in the neighboring country. When Ramiro got to the playing field at around 7 p. The young man had brought with him an empty green backpack. The Peruvian gave him a white bag with seven packets of cocaine. He just had to carry them for 10 blocks, and someone would come pick them up. Since it was late, Ramiro took a collective taxi. When he was two blocks from the meeting place, he got out. He kept walking. As he was nearing the spot, he saw a man standing on the sidewalk, talking on the phone. When he approached him, the man stopped talking and asked where he was going. Ramiro thought he wanted to rob him and he got scared. And then the man identified himself: he was an official from the Carabineros. He ordered Ramiro to show him what he was carrying in the bag, and to show him his ID card. Ramiro thought it was strange that a Carabineros officer would be walking alone at night far outside the city center, dressed in civilian garb, but he obeyed. Ten minutes later, he was sitting in a Carabineros patrol car, headed to prison. The next day, Saturday, they took him in front of a judge, and ever since then, he has been shut up in jail. Ramiro thought they had tricked him. The task they had given him, he reflected, was just a trap. Ramiro connected the dots: somebody had prepared the drug shipment just to get him in trouble. Magaly Zegarra, the Bolivian consul in Arica, told us that many prisoners said the same thing. She spoke to us about the drug law, Article 22, and about Ramiro and other prisoners. She told us about the case of Alejandro Choque and Mariana Moreno, a Bolivian couple that had been arrested several months ago for bringing drugs in from Peru. In the prison, Choque explained that he had swallowed some 50 cocaine capsules. He and his wife had travelled from Santa Cruz to buy clothes. Mariana had a store, and the prices were lower in the Peruvian border city. Alejandro would carry grams of cocaine in his stomach and Mariana would hide in her clothes. Since they had eight children, they accepted. Alejandro swallowed the capsules with juice and Mariana hid the rest as well as she could. They left Tacna and half an hour later, at the border, when they got off the bus to get their passports stamped, the Chilean investigative police asked what they had with them. Chilean police easily recognize drug couriers. The deputy superintendent of the investigative police, Ruben Gatica, led a group of eight agents at the Chacalluta border crossing. Working two kilometers from Peru, in the middle of the desert, Gatica said that in 20 years of service he had seen everything. When people ingest drugs, Gatica said, their eyes shine and redden — it looks like they have just stopped crying. Their mouth goes dry and their tongue gets white. Swallowing cocaine capsules irritates the respiratory and digestive systems. These signs are easy for the trained eye to detect, although the first and most important sign, said the deputy superintendent, is their attitude at the control window. If a Bolivian or a Peruvian that is trying to cross the border acts nervous, they are marked. The officials at the window alert the anti-drug agents, and they bring them to the interview room — a unit of two square meters in which the predominant feature is an x-ray machine. In her office, Zegarra skillfully managed two enormous folders full of cases like those of Ramiro, Sara, Alejandro and Mariana. She insisted that these prisoners were poor and uprooted, that they were victims, and that Article 22 of the drug law had a perverse effect. In regard to Article 22, the ombudsman, who deals each year with dozens of cases like those of Sara and Ramiro, said that the reality was masked by the official statistics. Hector Barros, one of the most respected anti-drug prosecutors in the country, admitted there were holes in the law in this regard, and said that with Article 22 they had even found cases in which the lawyers offered their clients the service of sending someone with drugs to Chile so that they could rat them out and get their sentence reduced. In the case of Ramiro Chambi, Zegarra used an angrier tone than when she spoke about the rest. Around that time — at the end of January — the most recent information regarding the anti-drug unit of the Arica Carabineros appeared to reinforce these suspicions. According to the information compiled, the head of the unit and another three officers led a drug trafficking network that extended into Bolivia. During the investigation, prosecutors documented how the officers had prepared two controlled drug seizures in Arica. It seemed to be a front for illegally trafficking drugs into Chile. While sitting at her office desk, Zegarra asked herself how many of her prisoners had been caught because of the activities of the OS She believed that Ramiro Chambi was one of them. Just as the Carabineros had prepared two controlled drug deliveries, she thought, the same had occurred with Ramiro. The young Bolivian had heard about the OS-7 case in prison. He laughed like someone who felt defeated. His uncle had visited him once, and he had communicated with his family via the consul. But in general, he was alone. The day Sara took the bus to Chile, Myriam gave her some pills for her stomach pain. In the Cochabamba terminal — the point from which the girl would continue alone — Sara complained several times. She felt sharp pains in her belly, and thought the cocaine was going to come out through her mouth. As Myriam was buying her ticket, it happened: a cocaine capsule left her stomach, travelled up her throat and came out her mouth. There were 77 capsules still inside her. Sara got scared. Myriam had told her that if they asked, she should say she was a student. The pain in her stomach had continued throughout the journey. Before she got off the bus to have her papers reviewed, she vomited a greenish liquid several times. A lady traveling with her had asked about it, and she said she was pregnant; that it must be morning sickness. At the border the officials suspected something, but they let her continue. Further along, in the middle of the desert, Sara started to throw up blood. At an investigative police control post further south, the police saw it clearly:. The officials took her with them. The young woman could not stand; she felt like her legs were asleep. They took her to the toilet. The police threw water on her face and gave her chicken and yogurt so that she would eat and push out the cocaine capsules. She vomited again. She fainted. The officials got scared and they pushed on her stomach, hard. Sara remembered how at that point she threw up 15 capsules. After she signed the paper, Sara fell asleep. When she woke up, hours later, she discovered a scar across her stomach. She scratched at it. The doctor told her not to. He explained that they had opened her stomach to take out the capsules that had remained inside. He said they had been blocking her intestines and that they had to operate. She shouted, she pulled out the IV, she threw a fit. The doctor ordered them to sedate her. A few days later, they brought Sara to the Arica prison, but the problems continued. Her intestine healed badly and Sara spent whole weeks without going to the bathroom, vomiting bile. They brought her to the hospital again. They said that she had to go to the bathroom, but she was scared that her scar would open up. Fear of dying. At the beginning of , Sara was getting better. She was able to use the bathroom without fear and the scar was holding up. Consul Magaly Zegarra visited her each week and tried to keep her spirits up. The day that we visited her, she was dressed in a blue and white striped shirt and worn-out leggings. That day everyone was sobbing. Alejandra S. Inzunza and Jose Luis Pardo Veiras also contributed reporting to this article. Subscribe to our newsletter to receive a weekly digest of the latest organized crime news and stay up-to-date on major events, trends, and criminal dynamics from across the region. Donate today to empower research and analysis about organized crime in Latin America and the Caribbean, from the ground up. Skip to content. The Industry of the Accusables When Ramiro got to the playing field at around 7 p. Stay Informed With InSight Crime Subscribe to our newsletter to receive a weekly digest of the latest organized crime news and stay up-to-date on major events, trends, and criminal dynamics from across the region.

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