Table Spread

Table Spread




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Table Spread
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Chewing the fat

The good oil?

The butter debate

All about fat

Plant sterols

What’s in your table spread?

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Finding the best spread for your bread.
Kiwis love their spreads. Every year, we churn through millions of dollars on butter and marge.
However, some spreads are better than others for your waistline and the planet. We’ve assessed 44 products to see what’s in them and calculated their health star ratings.
The main ingredient in butter and most table spreads is fat. Butter has about 80 percent fat and the table spreads in our survey ranged from 41 to 78 percent.
But not all these fats are the same. Fats and oils are comprised of fatty acids – saturated , trans , monounsaturated and polyunsaturated . Different oils and fats have varying levels of these fatty acids (see “All about fat” ).
It’s the saturated fat, together with the energy and sodium, that influence the health star ratings for table spreads. Health star ratings assess a food on its overall nutrition – half a star to five stars (the more stars the better).


No spreads in our survey earned five stars. Eight spreads achieved four: Essentials Table Spread, Flora Light, Gold’n Canola Lite, MeadowLea Lite, Pams Lite Canola Spread, Pams Lite Olive Spread, Sunrise Table Spread and Value Table Spread .
The saturated fat content of these spreads was 12.4 percent or less and they had moderate sodium levels. That’s a lot less than regular butter, which has about 50 percent saturated fat and higher sodium so only gets half a star. The unsalted stuff had low sodium levels, but its high saturated fat content means it still only earns one star.
Butter blends – spreads that combine butter or buttermilk, softened with vegetable oil – have less saturated fat. Country Soft Lite gets three-and-a-half stars. Country Soft , Flora Buttery and Pams Buttery Spread are three-star spreads.
What about olive oil-based spreads? They ranged from two stars ( Olivani Buttery ) to four ( Pams Lite Olive Spread ).
You might be surprised the main oil in these spreads isn’t necessarily olive oil. Pams Olive Spread contained 21 percent. Other brands contained less. Other oils used were canola, palm or unspecified vegetable fats.
It’s a similar story with other spreads touting a particular oil. For example, Olivani Avocado only contains 7.5 percent avocado oil, with unspecified oils making up a third of the spread.
Many table spreads didn’t specify the type of oil they contained. There’s no requirement for manufacturers to disclose this information unless the oil is a characterising ingredient (such as olive oil in an olive oil spread).
Instead, you might find the catch-all “vegetable oil” in the ingredients list. There’s a good chance it could be palm oil.
Palm oil and palm kernel oil are high in saturated fat. Their production is also linked to deforestation in Indonesia and Malaysia, and destroying the habitat of endangered species such as the orangutan and rhino.
A 2018 study published in the journal Science estimated palm oil production also generated more greenhouse gas emissions than soybean, olive, rapeseed or sunflower oil.
To quell criticisms, the industry-led Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil was set up to certify “good” oil. However, it’s been criticised because of inadequate traceability and failure to guarantee the oil that ends up in products is sustainably produced.
Supermarket home brand spreads (Essentials, Pams and Value) were upfront and listed palm oil in their ingredients.
We asked other companies to disclose what vegetable oils were in their products.
Fonterra (Anchor Original and Country Soft spreads) said palm oil is the main vegetable oil in its spreads. Goodman Fielder (MeadowLea, Olivani, Sunrise, Gold’n Canola and Tararua spreads), Upfield (Flora) and Nuttelex declined to provide the information.
Butter has gained favour as a “natural” option. But when it comes to making a greener choice, there’s widespread agreement we need to cut back on dairy. This is mainly due to methane emissions, use of nitrogen-containing fertilisers and effects on our waterways.
From a health perspective, the “butter is better” mantra also doesn’t stack up well.


University of Otago professor in human nutrition and medicine Jim Mann said there’s a huge body of evidence suggesting the benefits of replacing saturated fat with poly and monounsaturated fats.
“Using table spreads as a replacement for butter is one way of helping achieve this. Other options include using avocado, hummus and nut or seed butters,” Professor Mann said.
Dave Monro, Heart Foundation chief adviser food and nutrition, said the evidence is clear that replacing saturated fat with unsaturated fats, particularly polyunsaturated, is beneficial for the heart.
There’s a strong link between saturated fats, elevated blood cholesterol and heart disease, Monro said.
“It’s also important to remember that eating large amounts of fat isn’t good for us. All fats are energy-dense and we need to be conscious of overall fat intake in the context of a healthy diet.”
The World Health Organization recommends we get less than 10 percent of our energy intake from saturated fats.
Saturated fat raises the total cholesterol and levels of “bad” LDL (low-density lipoprotein) cholesterol in your blood. Saturated fats can also promote blood clotting, which can lead to heart attacks or stroke. Saturated fats are found in animal fats, as well as palm and coconut oil. In butter, the fat comes from cream.
Trans fat raises total cholesterol and LDLs, and may also decrease your levels of “good” HDL (high-density lipoprotein) cholesterol. Small amounts of trans fats occur naturally in butter but harmful trans fats are formed when liquid oils are hydrogenated to harden them and make them more stable to use. Most table spreads now contain less than one percent trans fats – a vast improvement on the eight percent some products contained in our previous surveys.
Polyunsaturated and monounsaturated fats are “good” fats. They help lower LDLs and monounsaturates are thought to raise HDLs. Canola, avocado and olive oils are high in monounsaturates. Sunflower and soya bean oils are high in polyunsaturates.
Flora Pro-activ spreads contain plant sterols, natural substances that have a similar structure to cholesterol and trick the digestive system into absorbing less of the real stuff.
Studies report regular consumption of cholesterol-lowering spreads may reduce your “bad” cholesterol. But these products are pricier than regular spreads and you have to eat about 25g of the spread daily to get that level of benefit – the equivalent of smearing about five teaspoons on your toast.
If you’re taking medication to lower your cholesterol, check with your doctor whether including plant sterols in your diet will provide any additional benefits. These spreads give no benefits if your cholesterol levels are normal.
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HFG senior nutritionist Rose Carr looks at how common foods get from field to plate.
The main ingredient for most spreads is a liquid oil such as sunflower, canola or rice bran oil. These are high in polyunsaturated and monounsaturated fats. The oils used are refined oils, the same as we buy in the supermarket. Some spreads include other liquid oils such as olive or avocado oils, but these oils are considerably more expensive.
To make a spread, the liquid oils need to be mixed with about 20 per cent hard oil . Most often palm oil and palm kernel oil are used: these have a high saturated fat content which makes them harder at room temperature than other vegetable or seed oils. Typically the palm/palm kernel oils are hydrogenated – a process which makes them solid and removes trans fats. Then they are blended with the other oils and a process called interesterification is used to make the mix spreadable and more pleasant to eat.
In the case of spreads made from rice bran oil, the hard oil used is from what is known as the ‘hard fraction’ of the rice bran oil which is semi-solid at room temperature. This means there is no hydrogenation or interesterification in the process of making these spreads.
Water is the next main ingredient. Like butter, margarines and spreads are an emulsion of water and fat and the less fat in the spread, the more water is mixed into the blend. Salt is added to enhance the flavour, although the amount varies.
Other ingredients you may find in your spread include milk powder – this is added to enhance the mouth-feel of the spread and gives it a dairy flavour. Emulsifier is added to keep oil and water-based ingredients mixed together. Without added colour a spread would be white. Originally the yellow colour was added to mimic butter. While some are now lighter in colour, we still expect spreads to be yellow. Most spreads have flavour added and when this is derived from dairy it will be declared as an allergen on the label. Vitamins A, D and E are permitted to be added, so some spreads will have these. Antioxidants are sometimes added to help keep the oils and a preservative is usually added to spreads with 65 per cent fat or less to prevent spoilage. Some spreads are enriched with plant sterols . These are relatively expensive, but for people with high cholesterol, studies have shown they can help reduce LDL ‘bad’ cholesterol.
When oils are partially hydrogenated, some of the fat is converted to trans fat. Trans fats are even more unhealthy for us than saturated fats. However, it is worth noting that in New Zealand, oils are fully hydrogenated and most spreads now contain less than one per cent trans fats. New Zealanders consume fewer trans fats than people in most other countries. In fact, we get far more trans fats from natural sources – such as butter and milk – than we do from manufactured foods.
Although most people still use margarine as a generic term to mean any type of table spread, the Food Standards Code stipulates that margarine must contain at least 80 per cent fat. Spreads need around 60 per cent fat to be suitable for baking, while the lower-fat spreads can be used for ‘spreading’.
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