THE COLLECTION OF CHINESE CLOTHING FROM THE QING DYNASTY

THE COLLECTION OF CHINESE CLOTHING FROM THE QING DYNASTY

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Semi-formal men's robe longpao with a motif of eight five-clawed dragons

Qing Dynasty, 19th century, silk, golden thread, brocaded

This men's garment, called a dragon robe, constitutes part of a traditional semi-formal ji fu outfit in the Manchu style. Wearing such clothing befitted the Emperor, his immediate family and the representatives of the clerical class. The members of the imperial administration, called mandarins by the Europeans, wore robes in dark blue colour.



Semi-formal men's robe longpao with a motif of nine five-clawed dragons (fragment)


Men's robe longpao
Qing Dynasty, 19th-20th century


An imperial dignitary's buzi badge with an image of a long dragon
Qing Dynasty, second half of the 19th century.



An official's Mandarin buzi badge with an image of a crane
Qing Dynasty, second half of the 19th century.
Badges with an image of a crane were attributed to the officials who, having passed multi-stage exams, achieved the highest rank. The extremely valuable background of the badge deserves a particular attention. Its green surface, with a metallic shine, was woven using peacock feathers.



An official's Mandarin buzi badge with an image of a wild goose
Qing Dynasty, first half of the 19th century, silk, golden thread, embroidery.
This valuable badge, belonging to a fourth-ranking official and dating back to the late Manchu Dynasty, was decorated with numerous symbols of luck and longevity. It was made applying a couching stitch technique using a metal thread with a silk core. This technique, dating back to ancient times, involved forming a pattern of connected gold cords, fastened to the fabric with a silk yarn.


Theatre costume
Qing Dynasty, 19th-20th century.


Woman's wedding robe mang ao
Qing Dynasty, second half of the 19th century.
Worn on the occasion of weddings and official ceremonies, this particular type of outfit could only be worn by a wife of a Chinese official whose rank was appropriately high. Its red colour symbolizes prosperity, similarly to numerous bats and Taoist symbols.


Woman's robe magua
Qing Dynasty, 19th century.
The main motif of the robe consists of eight medallions with court scenes embroidered in the landscape. Among the depictions, one can spot people playing the lute (sanxian), fishing, running with a kite, writing poems. Note the decorative yun jian collar in the form of stylized clouds.



Woman's robe magua (fragment)



Woman's vest majia
Qing Dynasty, 19th century.


Woman's robe ao
Qing Dynasty, second half of the 19th century.
This casual woman's robe is adorned with the motif of the Four Nobles - plants symbolizing the four seasons. The two-coloured – blue and pink – damask contains depictions of plum blossom branches which refer to the spring, orchid flowers which symbolize the summer, chrysanthemum - the flower of the autumn and a bamboo representing winter. The peony, which appears in this composition, is regarded in China as the queen of flowers and refers to feminine beauty.



Woman's robe changyi
Qing Dynasty, first half of the 19th century, silk, gilded copper button knots, embroidery, applique.
The main decorative motifs of this robe are orchid flowers and butterflies. The Chinese valued the orchid flowers for their subtle fragrance and elegance. They associated them with concepts such as love, beauty and fertility as well as with qualities of virtue and moral excellence. The motif of a hundred butterflies, symbolizing a Hundred Blessings, was a favourite robe pattern of the last Empress - Cixi (1834-1908).


Woman's robe changyi
Qing Dynasty, 19th-20th century.


Woman's robe ao
Qing Dynasty, early 20th century.



Qun skirt
Qing Dynasty, 19th century.
The collection of the National Museum in Krakow features a skirt made of silk gauze woven in a pattern depicting swastikas and peonies. It is decorated with black trimmings and embroidery in the shades of blue (sanlan) with orchid, butterfly and bat motifs. The front and rear parts of the skirt present an embroidered water landscape with a pair of Mandarin ducks among lotus flowers, peonies and pomegranates.


Qun skirt
Qing Dynasty, 19th century.
The collection of the National Museum in Krakow features a skirt made of silk gauze woven in a pattern depicting swastikas and peonies. It is decorated with black trimmings and embroidery in the shades of blue (sanlan) with orchid, butterfly and bat motifs. The front and rear parts of the skirt present an embroidered water landscape with a pair of Mandarin ducks among lotus flowers, peonies and pomegranates.


Woman's robe waitao
Qing Dynasty, 19th-20th century.


Qun skirt
Qing Dynasty, 19th century, silk, golden thread, embroidery.


A pair of children's shoes
Qing Dynasty, 19th century.
Silk, cotton, golden thread, leather, glass, embroidery, applique.
In China, children's shoes were decorated with auspicious images of tigers or lions (shizi), which were meant to protect them against evil demons. The eyes and ears were distinctly highlighted as those were the parts of the body through which the animals recognized dangerous powers. Similar motifs were also used to embellish headgear and entire outfits for children, particularly around the New Year or other major holidays.




Medallion from a birthday robe
Qing Dynasty, late 19th century.
Silk, kesi technique.
The image of a peacock with a peach branch and Taoist emblems are popular symbols of longevity and prosperity. Robes adorned with such motifs were worn on the occasion of birthdays.


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