Swedish Swingers
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Swedish Swingers
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December 15, 2015
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trekgreatamerican@gmail.com
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7 Comments
Click here for the African leg of our trip
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That’s right. We had finally made it out of Peru, who had held us captive for months, forcing her beauty and diversity on us at every turn. After a dirty, wet lug through some muddy, horrendously maintained mountain roads, we hit the Ecuadorian border, and were confronted with horrifically beautiful tar, dense greenery, and shock and horror… road signs. It was not until this very moment that I realised that Peru has a desperate aversion to road signs, I don’t know what the signs must have done to anger Peru, but it must have been bad.
Crossing the border into Ecuador was (for once) exactly what we expected. The forests were lush, green, and everywhere. Clouds pumped up out of the deep valleys to flow over the roads, and there was life everywhere. Shortly after entering the border I also had my first experience with a tarantula. For the first time in my life, I saw a tarantula crossing the road. The weight of this statement is important, because to see a spider crossing a major road when you are going 100km/hr on a motorcycle, it means it’s a pretty big spider. Spiders in this part of the world don’t get squashed, they actually get HIT by CARS. I immediately shared my amazement with Megan, and asked if we could stop to take a picture of the beast. Megan, having a deep-seated fear of all things spidery, asked me if I was mental and forcefully declined. I then turned to Martin, wondering out if he would be interested, my suggestion was met with a classic Martin reply of ‘NO! Why would you do such a thing!?’. So my photo evidence never materialised, apologies.
We spent the day taking in the new country, with all its amazing views and immaculate tar roads, and after a quick stopover in the small town of Loja, we blasted over to Cuenca. Cuenca is a beautiful city, with stunning architecture, and some great food. While staying here we met Dan, an American riding South on a KLR650, a great guy. But the bug had bitten us, and as it is with so many overlanders, after you get stuck for too long in one place you the itch to make progress. The novelty of being able to move took over and carried us to Baños
Riding through Ecuador is truly beautiful
And this is when the volcanoes started, we were soon met with one of the giant ‘earth-pimples’ shouldering its way out of the mist, an massive, imposing sight, and for a short while we felt very, very small. Baños is a small, tourist town in a lush valley, complete with hot-springs and famous for its hand-made taffee, Baños was first established after a vision of the virgin Mary was seen at its main waterfall, so it was primarily a religious site. Up to this point, we had been told by every backpacker we met, that we had to visit Baños. Not having learnt our lesson yet (we are slow learners) we listened, and got ourselves appropriately excited. What we were met with, was a heavily touristy town, with gringo-style fast food restaurants, a million tour companies, and locals trying invasively and forcefully to sell you some or other form of crap on every corner. All authenticity has been lost, and the mighty dollar has taken over.
But it’s not all bad. If I stop being a grumpy old arse for 10min, I remember the great craft beer, pulled pork sandwiches and fantastic hot chocolate and chocolate slabs for which Ecuador is so famous. We also had a nice little day ride up to the ‘swing at the end of the world’ through curvy cobbled streets we climbed up to the swing, where you swing out over the clouds and the void whilst marvelling at the gigantic volcano staring back at you from across the valley. There are highlights to the touristy stuff sometimes, no matter how much I complain.
Shooting the shit with Martin before hitting the swing
The famous waterfall, I didn’t see Mary…
The following morning, we said a heartfelt goodbye to Martin, who would be taking a different route than us up to Quito, Ecuador’s capital. As usual, our procrastination and tendency to stay in places far too long had become too much for Martin, who chose progress. We had also planned a detour to Tena, the beginning of Ecuador’s Amazon Rainforest. About a half an hour after waving goodbye to Martin, Murphy and his legal system decided to send us an entire, badly behaved bachelorette party full of young, single girls as well as fill the rest of the hostel’s remaining beds with beautiful, blonde Swedish girls with no concept of showing too much skin. To add insult to injury we were moved out of our private room and into a small dorm with the swedes, who insisted on walking around in their underwear and changing in the room in broad daylight. You can imagine Megan’s feelings at having her husband exposed to such torture. When informed of this, Martin was a broken man, struggling to grasp the severe misfortune that had befallen him, he even seriously considered riding back. Megan made an emergency executive decision and dragged me out of there kicking and screaming the following morning.
And so it was rain-forest time. We had been very excited to get back to the jungle, Megan in particular missed the sounds of the animals and the jungle, and Tena had a reputation as being a fantastic Amazon getaway. So in we rode, over a fantastically dodgy bridge and through the rain and mist into a paradise on a direct tributary to the Amazon River. We landed a great little cabin, and spent the day lying in hammocks reading and listening to the sounds of the jungle, a hard day’s work indeed. After a nasty, but completely brilliant thunderstorm, complete with fallen tree right next to the bikes, we left for the capital. After refilling at the nearest station, and stopping for a small roadblock, Megan was chased, rather hilariously, by a monkey, who for some or other reason had it in his head to climb on her motorcycle whilst she was still on it. Megan didn’t play fair and sped away squeaking and squealing over the Sena, leaving a confused, and possibly emotionally hurt monkey to his own devices.
Some high-quality audio we took in the jungle, best listened to with headphones:
We soon arrived in Quito, Ecuador’s capital, a beautiful place with a rich history and beautiful buildings. We pulled in to Hotel Zentrum, a fantastic stopover. The gentlemen, who hosted us so kindly, were two elderly German hippies with loads of character. They take great pride in their hotel, which is complete with a beer garden, honesty bar and the best buffet breakfast we had seen the whole trip, it was going to be difficult to leave. We even managed to service the bikes in the hotel’s parking, giving our steeds some much needed TLC and giving me the chance to play with some rad gadgets lovingly sponsored by GS911 in South Africa.
One essential thing to do in Quito is visit the famous Cathedral in the old-town. A striking piece of work, this massive cathedral is covered in gargoyles and carvings of animals unique to the Galapagos Islands. All manner of lizards, birds, turtles, seals and everything in-between peek out from every stony step, and is a truly bizarre sight to be seeing on an ancient chapel. The highlight came when climbed to the top of the steeple. Well… I say we…
Megan made a gallant effort and conquered her fears to ascend most of the way, even when confronted with the relentless teasing and torture coming from her better half behind her, walking through the old roof and ascending rickety stairs. I eventually had to push to the summit alone and take some photos of the vast city that lay sprawled out below of us.
On the way out of the city, we made a quick stop at the Equator as well, to document that pivotal moment where we crossed into a new hemisphere, its not called Ecuador for nothing you know…
Megan made it up this far, a commendable effort
Nothing like a good Gothic cathedral
The Equator, officially in the Northern Hemisphere
The ride to Mindo was a short one, but great, full of tight twisty tar and lush greenery. Mindo is a small forest reserve town, and is the home to a massive collection of animal life, plant life and myriad nature-begotten delights and curiosities. It is the point where the two most biodiverse regions on Earth meet. It was also where Martin had been hiding waiting for us whilst we were gallivanting around the rest of the country. One of my favourite things about Mindo was Cabanas Las Luciernagas and Willy, it’s eccentric Swiss-German owner. Willy has been living in Ecuador for 21 years, and speaks fluent Spanish with a German accent, which is as heavy as an anvil. The Cabanas, although started by Willy and on his property, had been managed by a local had nearly destroyed the business. By the time we had arrived, Willy had once again taken over the business and was busy building it up, he was doing a damn good job of it too. Very few times on the trip have I seen someone so genuinely helpful, friendly and proud of his place. On arrival, even after our protests as to how this was unnecessary, Willy whipped up a home-made bike shelter in 30min because ‘It rains every afternoon’ and we didn’t have covers. He is a real champ. Willy makes breakfast every morning for his guests, these change between traditional Ecuadorian and traditional Swiss breakfasts. We even had the honour of Willy making us a traditional Ecuadorian drink, which we shared with our new good friend, Tim. This involves mixing a home-made sugar cane liquor (which smells like mosquito repellent and comes out of an old Sprite bottle- this was where it got scary) with long lemon-scented grass collected from his garden, this mixture is then heated in a massive pot, the grass removed and served hot in a huge jug. It is unexpectedly delicious, tasting a bit like med-lemon, it also smacks one into a drunken stupor with great efficiency. When we were on our second jug and struggling to balance on the seats, Willy told us that this drink was why he never got ill, he followed this by telling us that the drink is actually illegal, banned by the government because they say it makes people go blind… Oh, and cock-fighting is a legal, and cherished sport in Ecuador.
We had a blast in Mindo, we hiked incorrect jungle trails by accident to fantastic waterfalls, rivers and pools, went tubing with Tim, spent an entire afternoon watching hummingbirds, butterflies and taking pictures of orchids. We also had the opportunity to visit Mindo Salud – a non-profit private clinic in Mindo, set up to provide locals with quality, affordable healthcare. It is a great initiative run by friendly, hard-working people in a tiny little paradise.
High-quality audio of the jungle sounds we recorded in Mindo’s cloud forest – it will transport you there, close your eyes and have a listen, better with headphones
Our hand-crafted bike-shelter, apparently it is still standing and serving the other bikers that ride through
Paying a visit to the Mindo Salud Clinic
I even found a vine to play the fool on
Tubing with Tim, Good news: none of us have gone blind from the booze yet
Soon we found ourselves on our own again, and on the way to our last stop in Ecuador. A highlight of the riding in Ecuador was the spooky, strange landscape of El Angel National Park. Surrounded by thick clusters of cycads covering every visible piece of land for miles, we wound our way through the mist, over muddy tracks with tricky, slippery and rocky sections, it felt good to be back in the dirt. Our route eventually took us back onto tar and promptly off the tar once again to negotiate a steep downhill into a nearly deserted… I don’t know what to call it. A ginormous swimming pool, with a fresh thermal pool and an attached, but thoroughly closed shop, met us at the bottom. We had received orders from Mich that we had to stay here. $1 USD camping, free use of the thermals, surrounding waterfalls, and no-one around except for one lonely groundsman who couldn’t be more than 22 years old. God only knows how Mich found this place, but it was fantastic. It was a great and fitting end to our whirlwind trip through the tiny gem of Ecuador.
Next up : The majesty of the distilled, ground, brewed-up and jiggled around awesomeness of COLOMBIA!
Creepy, beautiful El Angel National Park
A lake in a volcanic crater before El Angel
Our crazy camping site with Meg in the Hot-spring
Sorry, no pictures, it didn’t happen
“swedes, who insisted on walking around in their underwear and changing in the room in broad daylight”
I’m glad you guys are having a good time, can’t wait to see you guys reach the USA. Great photos.
Hahaha, thanks George, will keep a camera on me at all times and ready to shoot discretely at all times from this point on – see you in the states!
I have thoroughly enjoyed your blog! Wish I was there, planning my own pipe dream trip up north, you guys are an inspiration. Keep it coming!
Hi Richard
Thanks so much! We are glad you are enjoying the blog and that we have given you some inspiration. Do start planning that dream!
All the best
This is the second naked woman story without proof. I believe the go pro must be left on 24/7!
The poor monkey! he does look sad. And I really wish yall got pictures of the tarantula! Great post as always
Hi,
just stumbled over this nice blog and enjoyed reading it.
Great pictures, way above average.
Thanks for sharing and for creating this nice piece of the internet.
Thanks Andy! Its an absolute pleasure, and I am so happy that you dig it – should be some more posts coming soon. Thanks again for the great compliment-
Matt
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December 15, 2015
/
trekgreatamerican@gmail.com
/
7 Comments
Click here for the African leg of our trip
Archives Archives
Select Month
January 2022
November 2016
August 2016
June 2016
May 2016
April 2016
March 2016
February 2016
January 2016
December 2015
November 2015
October 2015
September 2015
August 2015
July 2015
June 2015
May 2015
April 2015
March 2015
February 2015
January 2015
December 2014
November 2014
October 2014
September 2014
August 2014
July 2014
June 2014
May 2014
April 2014
March 2014
February 2014
January 2014
December 2013
November 2013
That’s right. We had finally made it out of Peru, who had held us captive for months, forcing her beauty and diversity on us at every turn. After a dirty, wet lug through some muddy, horrendously maintained mountain roads, we hit the Ecuadorian border, and were confronted with horrifically beautiful tar, dense greenery, and shock and horror… road signs. It was not until this very moment that I realised that Peru has a desperate aversion to road signs, I don’t know what the signs must have done to anger Peru, but it must have been bad.
Crossing the border into Ecuador was (for once) exactly what we expected. The forests were lush, green, and everywhere. Clouds pumped up out of the deep valleys to flow over the roads, and there was life everywhere. Shortly after entering the border I also had my first experience with a tarantula. For the first time in my life, I saw a tarantula crossing the road. The weight of this statement is important, because to see a spider crossing a major road when you are going 100km/hr on a motorcycle, it means it’s a pretty big spider. Spiders in this part of the world don’t get squashed, they actually get HIT by CARS. I immediately shared my amazement with Megan, and asked if we could stop to take a picture of the beast. Megan, having a deep-seated fear of all things spidery, asked me if I was mental and forcefully declined. I then turned to Martin, wondering out if he would be interested, my suggestion was met with a classic Martin reply of ‘NO! Why would you do such a thing!?’. So my photo evidence never materialised, apologies.
We spent the day taking in the new country, with all its amazing views and immaculate tar roads, and after a quick stopover in the small town of Loja, we blasted over to Cuenca. Cuenca is a beautiful city, with stunning architecture, and some great food. While staying here we met Dan, an American riding South on a KLR650, a great guy. But the bug had bitten us, and as it is with so many overlanders, after you get stuck for too long in one place you the itch to make progress. The novelty of being able to move took over and carried us to Baños
Riding through Ecuador is truly beautiful
And this is when the volcanoes started, we were soon met with one of the giant ‘earth-pimples’ shouldering its way out of the mist, an massive, imposing sight, and for a short while we felt very, very small. Baños is a small, tourist town in a lush valley, complete with hot-springs and famous for its hand-made taffee, Baños was first established after a vision of the virgin Mary was seen at its main waterfall, so it was primarily a religious site. Up to this point, we had been told by every backpacker we met, that we had to visit Baños. Not having learnt our lesson yet (we are slow learners) we listened, and got ourselves appropriately excited. What we were met with, was a heavily touristy town, with gringo-style fast food restaurants, a million tour companies, and locals trying invasively and forcefully to sell you some or other form of crap on every corner. All authenticity has been lost, and the mighty dollar has taken over.
But it’s not all bad. If I stop being a grumpy old arse for 10min, I remember the great craft beer, pulled pork sandwiches and fantastic hot chocolate and chocolate slabs for which Ecuador is so famous. We also had a nice little day ride up to the ‘swing at the end of the world’ through curvy cobbled streets we climbed up to the swing, where you swing out over the cl
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