Swazi Girls Naked

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Once a year, young Swazi girls and women celebrate their chastity, honor their Queen Mother and participate in a week long ceremony that finalizes its events with a two day display of pageantry and tradition.
The media rumor mill churns about the intended purposes behind the performance of the Reed Dance. Many stories have portrayed the event as a corralling of the virgins within the country to be displayed like show-cattle for the King to choose, should he see something he likes, as a bride.
Being there was slightly different. It seemed more like a gathering of friends and loved ones, to dance, show respect to their cultural traditions, and honor themselves as both beautiful and chaste women of Swaziland.
The Umhlanga, or Reed Dance, honors the country’s Queen Mother (otherwise known as the Ndlovukazi, meaning she-elephant) and celebrates the chastity of the young women in the country. Tens of thousands participate in the week-long event; the last two days of which are the only two open to the public. From what I’ve been told, the entirety of the ceremony does not have to be completed by those who choose to participate [and yes it is voluntary, as the announcer frequently emphasizes through the loud speaker during the festivities].
A portion of the ceremony requires the girls to hike to a riverbank some 70 kilometers away, gather reeds and return them to the doorstep of the Queen Mother in order to help repair some of the traditional structures within the royal compound. When the ceremony was originally adopted by Swazi people in the 1840’s from the Zulu-speaking Ndwandwe clan, the women had to walk to and from the riverbank with no assistance. Today however, the traditions have been modified slightly, allowing the girls to be shuttled to the riverbank after walking half of the distance; upon retrieving the reeds they again are allowed to be shuttled back half of the distance. They are given a full day to rest, and the final two days are filled with pageantry, music and dancing in front of both the Queen Mother and his highness, the King.
During these final days, the girls adorn their traditional dress and drop the reeds in front of the palace, moving and chanting with their sacred offerings to the kingdom. The march to the arena displays 40,000+ women in perfect step with one another, stomping and singing to the beat of their own march. The King oversees the festivities from a private area in the risers, and once the seemingly never-ending line of girls ends, they position themselves into concentric circles layered deep into the field. Toward the completion of the event, the King honors the maidens and shows his appreciation for their loyalty by walking through the circles with his entourage, bowing in front of each group of girls.
It has been rumored in the media that the dance is often where the King chooses a new bride; while it is not the cultural significance of the ceremony, current King Mtswati III has chosen at least three of his current brides from the dance.
Women from all over the kingdom, come together to participate in the Umhlanga Dance. They range dramatically in age; in a single line a 4-yr-old with tassels dragged behind her that are longer than her legs; women standing on either side ranging from pre-pubescent teens applying hot pink lipstick, to women well into adulthood poised with the confidence of age.
The girls are dressed in varying versions of the traditional wardrobe of Swazi women; royals are clearly marked with red feathers emerging from their headdresses shining like rubies when hit by the sun. Large white shells wrapped around a woman’s neck signifies she is a daughter of the sitting King.
There are sources that discuss the enrollment of the girls as a draft-like experience, some families being fined for keeping their daughters from participating in an event that honors the tradition of their country; they fear it shows disrespect or even contempt for the kingdom.
The other discussion surrounding the dance implies that these women are being displayed for the King to choose from. Day 1 of the two-day pageantry didn’t give the King much interaction between the women, other than a seat observing from a distance and a final bow to the maidens as the day concluded.
MHIV/AIDS has ravaged the people of Swaziland, which holds one of the world’s largest infected rates per capita in the world. A believed 26% of the population is infected by the disease. Some sources report up to 40% of the population has been affected, but numbers, as most facts about the small country, vary source to source, and mouth to mouth. Some 80,000 children are believed to have been orphaned in the wake of such a crushing infection rate.
Upon entering the border, you are greeted with a box of complimentary condoms; safer sex practices have long been struggled with in the kingdom to help with the crisis.
In 2001, the King invoked a new ordinance stating that it was now illegal for those under the age of 18 and unmarried to engage in any sexual acts. They were to wear tassels in accordance to the law; a promise ring of sorts to the king and the law.
Efforts continue to keep the people of Swaziland safe, and bring down the number of those affected and lost to the disease.
The current King of Swaziland has been slammed in the media as being a King of Excess during a time of country-wide economic turmoil. His lavish spending’s and lifestyle only befitting a king has been criticized publicly and constantly talked about by those in-country seeking a democratic solution to the state of the kingdom.
Ruling since 1986, Mtswati III became the youngest monarch in the world when crowned at the age of 18. Currently married to 15 women, and the father of 25; maintaining a royal kraal of 13 palaces and the royal fleet of top-of-the-line cars (even a $17 million private jet), there are those who wonder whether the tolerance for such excess will last much longer.
Being here and talking to locals, it seems most wouldn’t question the respect they are to give their king; as well as the traditions held by the country that continues to be governed as an absolute monarchy.
During the festivities of the Umhlanga ceremony, appearances from the King and his interactions with locals resulted in fanatical appreciation that would rival and mimic the reaction of fans to the Beatles getting off their tour bus in ’64.
You do not want to step between a young girl and her opportunity to meet the King face-to-face.
Media was dually informed of the privilege and honor we were being given to step near their king.
Trying to get an appropriate or reliable number from officials, media representatives, or onlookers about Swaziland, the King’s wives, or the number of people in attendance was as variable as the numbers found site to site while researching back in the states. Everyone’s answer is different. No one’s answer is certain. And everyone avoids answering anything too directly or with any kind of authority; even if they are the authority.
So I can tell you over 100,000 girls participated in the ceremony this year because that it what no less than two guards and media representatives told me. I heard the number 40,000… 15,000 and 120,000. I’m thinking the last one was an exaggeration, but you tell me.
Regardless of the actual number, take a look for yourself. Visually you can see that no matter what figure you come up with, it’s nothing to scoff at.
Over the speaker system in the stadium there was a constant commentary identifying the dances, the songs, and the cultural significance of the day’s events. They were broadcasting the nation’s beliefs in a way that was reminiscent, for me, of the rituals and beliefs of the Catholic Church; like during the Liturgy of the Eucharist when you say, “It is right to give Him thanks and praise”… no question, no alternative. It is so. The Kingdom, in that sense, is not much different than back home, than the churches many of us grew up attending, or still do.
One portion of the big-brother-Swazi-announcement was that young women are better off being trained as mothers early on. As they said this, the first group of maidens marched in front of the King, who was positioned in the stadium to open the second day’s events. The group seemed to consist of only ages 10 and under; babies, in the eyes of anyone I know from the U.S. But it would appear that to the Swazi people, the earlier the better, and all ages are considered women.
The announcer may have worded the idea with more grace and ere of legend or cultural significance than how I may have at it, but the principle still applies. Start your mothers young; not mothers in the western idea of the word, but as their queen is called their “Queen Mother.” She is the woman who shares the leadership with the King and oversees a nation as her own. It is a position of respect, owning of authority, confidence, competence, and strength.
So the Swazi people start all their children young; boys included.
One important role during the Umhlanga dance is the position of guards to the maidens. They oversee, participate, and protect the sacred process.
Who said a man couldn’t mature at any age? I know 30-year-old men with less confidence and purpose than this little guy.
Most of the maidens walked with swords; royalty usually wielded the real deal, while many others used lookalikes. These signified the knives that were used in the cutting of reeds; those reeds to be delivered to the Queen Mother’s palace on the first day of pageantry.
From what we’ve been told, the Reed Dance historically has 40 to70 thousand maidens at the most. Recently, we’re told more than once the numbers reached well over 100,000. “Too many,” says a guard at one of the camps closer to Piggs Peak, Dlamini. This number of maidens has never before represented the kingdom, and “How could we know why?” says the guard.
All we know for now is that as the years go on, the maidens add to their numbers. Whether for tribute to the king, their country, their sisters, themselves, or for the hell of a good time; we have witnessed a display of enthusiasm for country that need prove itself to no outsider.
Behind every man, stands a great woman.
In Swaziland many live and support polygamy; the king himself has an unknown number of wives. Five were present during the Umhlanga and swept onto the field to greet their daughters.
When asked if these were all of the king’s wives, a guard to the king confirmed that these were his brides and that many more existed, but were not present. When asked how many more there were, he replied: “more than I could count!” The number seems inconsequential to the people of Swazi. The wives themselves were creatures of mystery, to an onlooker at least. Their presence was shrouded with composure and elegance that would befit a king’s wife. The group of them swept back off the field once they had shown their appreciation to their daughters, hardly making a wrinkle in the day’s events.
The further away from the Kings Valley we venture, the easier the facts are to sort out.
Many, if not most, of the maidens participating in the Umhlanga, do so voluntary; “it is for their culture,” says an anonymous source whose sister was in attendance. The idea of marching to honor the country and their history as a nation seems too romantic to pass up.
HOWEVER, perhaps there’s truth in the saying: devil is in the details. If an eligible maiden (eligible meaning that she does not have children, and is not married or engaged to another) chooses not to participate, the king’s messengers (or Indvuna) arrive at the home of those refraining involvement to collect one cow. If the family doesn’t have a cow, they must give a donation in the equivalence to the price of the animal. The number varies, but an average estimate for a cow here in Swaziland is around 3,000 rand.
Umhlanga ceremonies are not only practiced in Swaziland. Traditional ceremonies like this occur just beneath Swazi, in South Africa, as well.
The girls participating are distinguished by their variations on traditional dress which represent the regions they traveled from.
The maidens of Swaziland come from four main regions: Lobombo, Hhohho, Manzini and Shiselweni. But women from other parts of Africa travel long distances to appear in the ceremony, just as Swazi girls travel to South Africa to participate in their Umhlanga.
It is an opportunity for the girls of the country and surrounding areas to celebrate their culture, and perhaps find a husband. The rumors that the ceremony is for the King to pick a new bride are not considered to be true in the eyes of the people of the country, however it is a possibility. The true finale to the Umhlanga happens the day after the two public days. At that time the King acknowledges the maidens loyalty and gives them his blessings.
Should the king want to make one of the maidens in the ceremony a new bride of his, he need only to point at her. With that, guards will collect her from the crowds and take her off to the palace, where she will be made a fiancé. To ensure fertility, the finances that are chosen by the king are only made brides if they “fall pregnant.”
The king does have his pick of the crop. It would seem there is nothing he wants that his title cannot get him; especially brides.
It was rumored that one of his younger brides was taken, unlawfully, by guards of the king while she was walking home from school. After days of panic, her mother was informed that she had been retrieved to perform royal duties for the king, and that she could not see her. A few days later the woman’s daughter was announced as the king’s new fiancé.
Once a woman is chosen by the king, and the relation is made public, there is no law that can interfere.
Agriculture is one of the countries main sources of income, sugar and corn are the main crops in production, the majority of which come of Malkern Valley, or as it is referred to: the nations breadbasket. Further north, agriculture is hidden in the hills approaching Piggs Peak.
Far outside of the Ezulwini Valley, seemingly shut off from the rest of the world are small, agricultural towns. The houses all sprawled out throughout the hillsides, cattle roaming freely and children speckling the hillsides.
The work of men done confidently and competently by boys. Driving along the outskirts of these towns, on the roads overlooking the farms sound travels back up the hills breaking an eerie silence that I’ve never encountered. It’s as if you were in an echo chamber, and it gives the area a charm that’s hard to put into works. Peaceful, quiet, only interrupted by the call of a rooster or the laughing of children, a mother calling her boys in from the field, occasionally the yell of a hungry cow. You could here a twig crack from a mile away.
The national parks of Swaziland are often overlooked by tourists because of the popular Kruger National Park, which is right over the border. However, a rarity here is that you are free to walk and camp on some of these nature reserves (those without big game that could be deadly, of course). Still, Nyla lying in your campsite during the night, and waking up to warthogs sniffing around your toes, has its charm.
This photo was taken at Mlilwane. Outside of the city further is Hlane; where you cannot walk freely with the wildlife, but you can spot lions and other big game.
After a close run-in with an angry elephant at Hlane, Edwin and I were happy to have been driven around by someone who knows the area and how to get out of potentially unfortunate situations. Listen to your guide folks!
The Manzini market, just south of Mbabane, is said to be the busiest and most authentic market in the country.
Walking through the cramped isles of shoemakers, witch doctors, and vendors was as chaotic as it was intriguing. The smells of meat being cooked and herbs meant for burning, singe your nostrils, while people shout out for you to look into their shop and try on their bracelets.
The produce arrives by the truck-full beneath the craft portion of the market, with men sitting in bright blue jumpers, contrasted against their truck beds overflowing with oranges.
The women sit by bushels of apples and buckets of grains to be sold; usually while stringing together a traditional beaded necklace.
It’s not a place you’re likely to be running into other tourists. Among its many charms, it can easily swallow you whole, leaving you lost or overwhelmed by choices. Upon approach, the size seems manageable, but once inside, the labyrinth appears and it’ll easily be hours before you emerge again.
Perched in an enclosed area above the produce vendors, sits a vibrant shopping mecca of hand-made, traditional, Swaziland crafts. Shields and beaded necklaces sit in piles, while the walls are lined seamlessly with original Swazi paintings, printed fabrics, Mswati III clothing and carved wooden models of Africa’s “big five.”
Crammed in a corner of the market that could easily be missed, is a dark enclosed room filled from floor to ceiling with antidotes of traditional herbs, roots and eye of newt; intended to bring health, love, or cures for any other ailment a person could have. The objects, all foreign to me, hung from the ceiling and covered any counter space available. But it would seem there was organization in the chaos; otherwise the vendors were simply grabbing the first thing that their hands could reach.
It was explained that in the shop, filled with at least a dozen vendors, one was a witch doctor; he was hidden in a back corner, where he could meet with patients and hand out remedies. As far as the business goes, the vendors buy their products wholesale from the ones who go out and gather the items. They then bring them to the market for people to purchase.
If Diagon Alley existed in the real world, it would be in the hidden corners of this market.
Throughout Swaziland, there are bulletins posted with large, pink block lettering publicizing major events, or stories from within the country.
Not for a few days did we learn what happened. As I said early, the original procedure in gathering the reeds for the ceremony was to walk the nearly 70 Km to the river bank and cut them down; once gathered they walk the 70 Km back to the camp and rest for one full day before presenting them to the Queen Mother.
Now the women walk no more than 30 kilometers, where they are picked by either open backed trucks, or large buses, and driven straight to the riverbank. Once they have finished collecting the reeds, they walk back another 30 kilometers, where they are then again picked up and driven the remainder of the hike and delivered at camp.
No doubt this hike is still impressive. Tragically this year, two open backed trucks carrying maidens on their way back to camp collided.
The first number we saw was 1
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