Suspension Bondage Tutorial

Suspension Bondage Tutorial
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Я Voudou Ropes, и сегодня я расскажу вам кое-что важное
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Basic Hip Harness by Voudou Ropes 10,111 views
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Video Tutorials The following are some basic ties that I use for self- suspension , showing how to self-tie a hip harness, chest harness, foot cuff, manage uplines, tie a hanger, and more. These videos are intended to supplement proper in-person instruction, never to replace it!
Learn and practice before you try this on a person. Get some heavy free weights and practice suspending them-the techniques and the rope control, both getting them suspended and in letting them down easily. Find a local mentor to guide you, to watch what you are doing the first few times and give you live correction.
***This is just a few possible options, that I use to be extra safe, there are more****Hey! You asked me a lot about the suspensions , and I really was not po...
Easy Release Two Column Tie Courtesy of Auntie Midori Midori's Lightning Harness Courtesy of Auntie Midori Jute rope treatment - part 3 - oiling your rope Courtesy of Haven Kink Jute rope treatment - part 2 - burning your rope Courtesy of Haven Kink Jute rope treatment - part 1 - the pulling method Courtesy of Haven Kink Daisy Chain Crotch Rope
Pull the rope head end back to your own direction. The rope head section should be pulled out to about 30 cm (1 foot). Use the rope head section to cross over the four strands of rope that are wrapping around the object being tied. With the index finger of your dominant hand, hook and pull out the rope head.
This tutorial shows you over 1600 of them… Ball Tie - Example 1 ᴹ This is one simple way to tie your partner into a helpless ball! Malasana Tie This tie keeps your partner's legs open by binding the knees up near the shoulders. Gingham Thigh-highs ᴹ
How to Get Tied Up II: Evaluating a Rope Partner. Misc . Coiling Rope
Hip harnesses, waist harnesses, hip cuffs, crotch ropes... Let your imagination flow. You will learn how to perform all these ties and more in step-by-step tutorials . Start tying today! See ties > Arm Ties There are all kinds of ways you can immobilize your partner's arms: Arms behind the head, arms to one side, palms together...
Suspension Suspension - a torture that is widespread in all countries. This could achieved in a variety of ways: in the limbs, rope bound through wounds in different parts of the body, as well as genital hooks or penetrating the sides of the abdomen. A weight can be attached to hair and other limbs.
She prepares herself for a huge surprise for her boyfriend...little did she know that the joke's on her!
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Bondage: Ultimate Guide to Bondage

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Published by MSK ,
2020-03-21 16:28:53

Description: Bondage: Ultimate Guide to Bondage

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The basic knots introduced in this chapter are the foundation of kinbaku. Viewed individually, they may appear bland, but many kinbaku compositions that look complicated are all based on the application of these foundational knots. Through creativity, you will be able to create many beautiful kinbaku forms. At the end of this chapter, you will be guided to apply what you have learned in a comprehensive exercise.

When naming the techniques, I will use the conventional terms in the kinbaku circle as much as possible, and also include some of the other names they are known by to help readers reference related literature.

4.1 Single Column Tie Just as the term implies, this technique can be used to tie column-shaped body parts, such as the arms, thighs, calves, or waist. Although the tie does not look magnificent on its own, it is the foundation of many kinbaku techniques. The single column tie is easy to learn but difficult to master. Even after many years of hard practice of kinbaku, you may not be able to grasp the essentials of many small details of this tie. By observing how smoothly a person executes the single column tie we can judge that person’s level of skills. This tie is suitable to tie the parts of the body where blood vessels and nerves are relatively shallow. Make sure to wrap the tied part several times to form a flat and even surface, and keep a gap between the wraps and the body to allow blood flow. This concrete yet subtle principle of multiple wraps while maintaining gaps is a central tenet of kinbaku. There are three commonly seen single column ties. The square knot single column tie has relatively few steps, but can be more difficult for a beginner to grasp the appropriate amount of force to be applied. Double square knot single column ties have more steps, but are easier to make the knot firm. Carrick bend 花聯結 single column ties have the advantage of having fewer steps and more firmness, but are difficult to use in situations where the rope wraps need to be relatively tight. As far as I know, the rope circle in Japan originally did not have a name for this type of tie. Some people use the Japanese term “hon-musubi” [original knot], but that actually refers to the square knot used. Most likely this name was acquired from English terminology. 4.1.1 Single Column Tie The first type of single column tie is held in place with a square knot. The square knot is one of the most common knots in daily life.

Use the rope head section to cross over the body part to be tied. Wrap around once. Pull the rope head end back to your own direction, pulling out about 20 cm (8 inches). The four strands of rope need to form a neat and tidy plane, without any crisscross. Use two fingers of your non- dominant hand to keep a gap.

Use the rope head section to cross over the four strands of rope. With the index finger of your dominant hand, hook and pull out the rope head. Pay attention that the rope head needs to pass through and under all the four strands of rope. Pull out the rope head section. Simultaneously pull the rope head end and the rope tail sections to slightly tighten. This keeps the gap from collapsing, and the four strands of rope on the column body will still forms a neat and tidy plane.

Pass the rope head section under the rope tail section. Wind the rope head back to where it came from, and pass through the gap formed in Step 7. Pull the rope head and rope tail tight. Pull the rope tail in the direction opposite to what it was in Step 6 and 7. Notice the symmetrical pattern in this picture.

Strand by strand, either pull or push the rope until it is tight. 1. The four strands of rope need to form a leveled and neat plane, wrapping like a

belt or “rope ring” to make the rope bottom comfortable. 2. When the rope is being pulled, the knot will not collapse, and the gap is still maintained. The most common reasons that the knot collapses are because the rope tail is being pulled straight (see Figure ), causing the knot to slip when the rope is under strain (see Figure ). The secret to prevent this from happening is to solidly execute Steps 6, 9, and 10. The direction of pulling the rope head in Step 9 should be opposite to that of Step 6. In Step 10, the knot should be tightened by pushing. Using a lark’s head knot to hook the wrist. The loop will tighten when the rope is pulled, cutting off blood circulation. In Step 5, failing to hook all the four strands of rope will cause the loop to tighten when the rope is pulled. The square knot, reef knot, or “hon-musubi” is not only used to connect ropes, but also used in many ornamentations. If you wind the rope in a wrong direction, you will form a granny knot that is more easily undone.

In the two images below, the upper knots are the square knots. Notice that the red rope on the left side is completely on top of the natural-color rope, and the natural-color rope on the right side is completely under the red rope. Pulling the square knot tight will produce the symmetrical pattern as shown in Step 9. Even if each of the two ropes is pulled to the left and right, the knot will not easily be undone. This is what we hope to see in the square knot single column tie. The lower knot is the granny knot. The red rope and the natural-color rope are each on top once on both the left side and the right side. Another characteristic of this knot is that pulling it tight will produce a cross-like pattern. The granny knot is more easily undone, so it should be avoided. This principle is also applicable when tying many objects in daily life. (Special thanks to Mai Maya for help with the material in this section.)

4.1.2 Square Knot Single Column Tie The square knot single column tie may be completed quickly after much practice, but you need to master appropriate force in order to prevent the knot from slipping. Its firmness also depends on the friction force of the rope you are using. Following is another common technique that adds an additional flat knot. Although there are more steps, it holds more reliably. When tying the double square knot, you need to pay attention to the direction of force applied. If you do not, there is still the possibility of the knot slipping. Follow Steps 1-6 of the square knot single column tie. Use the rope head section to cross over the body part to be tied.

Wrap around once. Pull the rope head end back to your own direction. The rope head section should be pulled out to about 30 cm (1 foot). Use the rope head section to cross over the four strands of rope that are wrapping around the object being tied.

With the index finger of your dominant hand, hook and pull out the rope head. Pay attention that the rope head needs to pass through and under all the four strands of rope. Pull out the rope head end and rope tail simultaneously to slightly tighten. By doing so, the gap between the rope and the object being tied will not collapse. Tie a square knot. Make sure to pull the rope tail section towards a direction that is opposite to Step 6. You should see a symmetrically shaped square knot.

Use your non-dominant hand to form a loop with the rope tail section. Thread the rope head through the loop and pull the rope tight. You will see another symmetrical square knot. 4.1.3 Carrick Bend Single Column Tie Using a Carrick bend (also known as the coin knot, sailor knot, and big sheet bend) to tie a single column tie is a recent invention in Europe and America. The application of force

is relatively simple, and the knot is firmer. You can quickly tie this knot after much practice, and the knot is suitable for smooth rope. When tying wrists and ankles, there should be some gap between the rope wrap and the body. In such cases, the Carrick bend single column tie is an ideal choice. When tying the hip or other areas where the rope needs to be tight, using a single column tie that primarily uses square knots is encouraged. In 2010, the American bakushi Topologist modified the Portuguese-style bowline and the French- style bowline to explain the tie in this section. It became named the Somerville bowline. Later, Wykd Dave and others discovered that the knot was in fact the Carrick bend, which has existed for a long time. Therefore, this book uses the original name. Follow Steps 1-3 of the square knot single column tie. Use the rope head to cross over the body part to be tied, from top to bottom.

Wrap around once. Pull the rope head end back to your own direction. Maintain the length to about 30 cm (1 foot).

Place the rope head section in parallel to the four strands of rope that are wrapped around the object being tied, and press with the thumb of your non-dominant hand. Use your dominant hand to hook the rope tail section to form a big look, and grasp with the Tiger Mouth (the web between thumb and index finger) of your non-dominant hand. The rope closer to the tail end should be on top. Thread the rope head through the loop formed in Step 5 and pull the rope though.

Use the thumb of your non-dominant hand to press the rope head section against the rope strands positioned side-by-side. Use the index finger of your dominant hand to hook the rope head and pull it, so that it passes under all six strands of rope. Thread it through the loop formed in Step 5 and pull. Grasp the rope tail with your non-dominant hand, and pull tight the loop formed in Step 5. Push the knot toward the direction of the object being tied to make it firm, making sure that the knot will not slip.

4.2 Double Column Tie As its name suggests, this tie can be used to tie two column-like objects arranged in parallel; both hands, thighs, calves, or any combination of columns. There are many techniques of double column tie, but here I show a simple method that is similar to the double square knot single column tie. Use the rope head to cross over the body parts to be tied, from top to bottom.

Wrap around once. Pull the rope head end back towards you. Arrange the four strands of rope to form a neat and tidy plane. The rope head should be pulled out 30-35 cm (12-14 inches). At the same time, a 5-8 cm (2-3 inch) gap should be maintained between the two “columns” being tied. This gap may appear to be too big, but it will be pulled tight in the next few steps. Use the rope head section to cross over the four strands of rope that are wrapping around the object being tied. Wrap the rope head section around the lowest point.

Tie a square knot. With your non-dominant hand, form the tail end of the rope into a loop. Thread the rope head through the loop and pull. Using your non-dominant hand to grasp the rope tail, use your dominant hand to securely push the knot against the objects being tied, making sure that the knot will not slip.

4.3 Half Hitch and Double Half Hitch After capturing someone’s hands and feet with single column or double column ties, you may wish to secure them to a fixed point. Here, we introduce a technique that is often used, even in suspension. Bind someone with a single tie, double column tie, or some other tie with a knot that has a loop that can be hooked. Wind the working section of the rope around the fixed point, whether a carabiner, table leg, bed post, or another sturdy point that can take the load.

Thread the working section back through the rope head, and pull. Wrap the working section around the fixed point again. You can pull the working end to adjust the distance between the object and the fixed point. Keep the ropes as neat as possible to make it easier to pull the rope.

Use your dominant hand to hold onto the working section, and use the non-dominant hand to create an opening. Use your dominant hand to push the working section through the opening created in Step 5. Pull the rope down in the direction the rope was going at the end of Step 4. Steps 5 and 6 combined are called a “half hitch” or “hito-musubi.” Repeat Steps 5 and 6, forming a second half hitch.

Pull the rope upward, causing the two half hitches up against each other. Due to the friction force of the hemp rope, after this step the knot will be fixed, and will not be easily undone. For those doing suspension, be mindful of safety. After Step 8, please form extra half hitches, tuck the working end through the areas with the tightest friction, and always pull the rope tight. Make sure to use rope and fixed points that are appropriate for suspension. To make the tie look beautiful, it is common to use up the rope that is left over. One method is to thread through the rope head again, and form several half hitches. When about 30 cm (1 foot) of rope is left, wrap it around the weight-supporting rope, and push the rope tail into a crack to jam it in place.

4.4 Various Styles of Frictions This section will introduce three techniques that are often used, when ropes cross each other, to lock the rope in place and prevent sliding. These allow kinbaku ties to be divided into independent, smaller pieces. It also has the effect of making the tie look beautiful. The terminology of these frictions are made up by the author. Since the first two techniques only rely on the rope’s friction force to temporarily secure the rope, I refer to them using the term “friction” instead of the term “knot.” 4.4.1 Figure 8 Friction The figure 8 friction can be used to secure several strands of rope arranged in parallel. Since kinbaku often needs several strands of rope to be arranged into a belt shape, the figure 8 friction is frequently used. This illustration assumes that the dominant hand is the right hand. If you are left handed, switch left and right in the instructions. Starting from the left side, wrap the rope around the object being tied.

Wrap the rope a second time, crossing over the first wrap. In Step 2, the more recent wrap crosses over the older wrap. This temporarily prevents the rope loop from sliding to a narrower part of the body. This is useful when tying the thigh (see Section 6.5) or arm binders (see Section 6.7). Hook the middle rope and turn the line 90 degrees, pulling the rope from right to pointing up.

Pass the rope head underneath the parallel strands of rope. Pull the rope upward to the left. Pass the rope head underneath the parallel strands of rope on the other side. Cross over the middle rope,

hook it and pull to the right side. Use finger to smooth the wrap, making the parallel strands of rope flat and neat. Adjust the crossing point close to the center. If the rope’s working end needs to run to the right, then the figure 8 friction is finished. If the rope’s working end needs to run to the left, then you can turn the working end around to hook over the center rope stem. This friction and the next prevent the rope from sliding, but do not completely secure the rope. If there is no tension on the rope, then the friction bend can still be undone. In most cases, both sides of t
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