Sultry Smoking

Sultry Smoking

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Smoking 101: How to Smoke Meat
What you need to cook meat low and slow

Derrick Riches is a grilling and barbecue expert. He has written two cookbooks.

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The modern method of smoking foods has evolved from a process of preserving. Long before refrigerators and chemical preservatives, smoke was used to extend the shelf life of food, particularly meat.

Nowadays smoking—as it relates to barbecue—is about taste and texture, not so much making food last longer. Smoking adds flavor, it tenderizes, and it turns some of the worst cuts of meat into a wonderful meal.

When we consider smoked meat we may initially think of smoked ham , bacon, or fish . But in the world of traditional barbecue , whether it is Texas or North Carolina, smoking means something else. In barbecue, smoking is cooking food "low and slow," requires a special piece of equipment (or a charcoal grill set up a special way), and takes anywhere from 1 hour to up to 20 plus hours.

Smoking is far more art than science, involves a lot of time and patience, and is much different than simply placing a slab of meat on the grill .

Put simply, when it comes to supplies and equipment, to smoke food you need a container to hold in the smoke, a source of smoke , and the food to smoke.

A smoker can be anything from a hole in the ground to a $20,000 smoker and the fuel can range from electricity to hardwood. Which type of smoker you buy will depend on a few factors: the space you have, the fuel you'd like to use, the amount of effort you want to put into it, and your budget.

Smokers can range in size from a small drum smoker to a large box smoker, and so the amount of food each model can hold will vary Once you know how much your smoker can handle, then you can move on to looking at what type of fuel the smoker requires.

Some smoking aficionados will say hardwoods such as hickory, oak or apple are the only way to go, but smoker fuel can also be charcoal, wood pellets, propane, or electricity. Smokers that use charcoal are often the least expensive while electric smokers that heat up the wood are the most hands-free.

Choose the type of fuel you think best suits you, but keep in mind if you don't use hardwood, your smoker may not impart a satisfying smokey taste to the food.

If the signature smokey taste is the most important aspect of smoking meat, then you need to choose a smoker that uses hardwood. Freshly cut hardwood is the best as half of its weight is water and therefore will produce a nice, moist steam that will help flavor the meat.

Although dried hardwood has only 5 percent water, it still contains a lot of sugars and carbohydrates which impart a smokey taste. The species of wood, as well as where it is grown, will have a direct effect on the food's flavor. Hickory, for example, has a very smokey taste reminiscent of bacon, while maple wood is sweeter and milder.

If using hardwood, it is important to soak the wood in water for about an hour before using—wet wood will last for hours while fresh wood can burn away in 20 minutes. If you are using wood chips, after soaking them, place them in an aluminum foil pouch and puncture with several holes. This will make them smoke for several hours.

What type of meat to smoke is purely a matter of taste. The most popular meats are ribs , brisket , and pork shoulder (usually to make pulled pork ). But don't limit yourself to these—you can also smoke prime rib, leg of lamb, or lamb shoulder—as well as whole poultry and fish, and even cheese and nuts.

The process of smoking has grown around tough cuts of meat that traditionally don't turn out well when cooked by any other method, like brisket, which is not very easy to eat unless you cook it very slow at a low temperature.

Smoking requires good temperature control. Meat smoking is best in the range of 200 to 220 degrees Fahrenheit. To be safe, most meats need to be cooked to an internal temperature of 145 degrees and poultry to 165 degrees.

However, to get real tender barbecue you want a higher final temperature, say around 180 degrees. Basically, smoking is a long process of overcooking tough meats to get a tender and flavorful meal.

It is best to have two accurate thermometers for smoking, one inside the smoker in the area where the meat sits to tell you the smoker temperature, and one meat thermometer placed in the meat to tell you the internal temperature of what you are smoking.

There are two reasons to keep the temperature low: One is to give the smoke enough time to sink into the meat, and the other is to naturally tenderize the meat. Slow cooking gives the natural connective fibers in meat time to break down, become tender, and change into gelatin.

Collagen, the tough connective tissues in meat (think gristle), break down into several types of gelatin when cooked slowly. This gives the meat a succulent flavor.

Another basic rule of smoking is to place the meat in the smoker so that it is surrounded by smoke. You want a good, thick stream of smoke around the meat at all times to give the meat the kind of exposure needed to enhance the flavor. The smoke needs to be moving to prevent the smoke from turning the meat bitter because of a build-up of creosote .

In addition to making sure your smoker is smoking, you also need to make sure it is steaming. Keeping the water pan full—provided in most smokers—is a crucial part of the smoking process. If you have a large smoker , you will probably need to refill the water pan a few times while smoking.

Adding a marinade before cooking or a sauce while the meat is smoking will assist in keeping the meat moist, but this is completely up to you.

To figure out how long you need to smoke your meat, you have to take three factors into consideration: the type of meat, the thickness of the meat, and the temperature of the smoker. On average, you will need 6 to 8 hours, but brisket can take up to 22 hours.

When smoking, some cooks will follow the "3-2-1 rule." The first 3 hours the meat is left to smoke; then the meat is wrapped in aluminum foil for the next 2 hours so the interior of the meat cooks properly. For the last hour of cooking, the foil is removed to allow the outside of the meat to develop a crisp exterior.

If you've cooked the meat correctly, you will see a pink ring (which is the nitric acid) around the meat just inside the dark outside layer.

Summary of Critical Issues

Smoke is inhibited by the skin and the scales.
Smoke is inhibited by the fat, lean fish smokes faster.
The more air available to wood for smoking, the higher the temperature. Burning sawdust results in the lowest temperature, and the densest, but the dirtiest smoke. A lot of soot is produced.
Hardwoods produce the cleanest smoke.
Evergreen coniferous and needle type trees produce are rich in resin and produce low quality, turpentine flavor smoke.
Dry wood should be used for cold smoking.
Soaked wood chips may be used for hot smoking.
Wet wood produces smoke that is rich in vapor, soot, and many unburned particles. The smoke is dark, heavy consisting of large particles.
Meats with wet surface acquire smoke faster, unfortunately the heavier particles and soot are easily attracted. The resulting color is dark and the flavor inferior.
The fish that was dried before smoking will develop the most attractive color.
The smoked fish develops the best color in about 2 hours, however, after the process is stopped, the development of color will still continue and will be the strongest after about 10 hours.
A darker color develops when the smoking time is increased and the thicker smoke is applied. Increasing the smoking time and applying the thinner smoke will produce the same results as decreasing the smoking time and applying the denser smoke.
The best quality fish is produced when hot smoke does not exceed 180° F (82° C).

Salting and smoking fish was practiced for centuries. Man discovered that smoking was a very effective tool in preserving fish. Heavy salting and long periods of cold smoking preserved fish well enough so they could be kept for months without spoiling. Since Middle Ages until 1900’s fish were heavily cured with salt and cold smoked for 3 weeks or more. With the development of railways (1840), it became possible to distribute fresh fish to wider areas and the fishing industry started to grow rapidly. Due to the availability of fresh fish, the taste for heavily salted, smoked and dried fish has declined, and people came to prefer less salty foods. Fish are hot smoked today for a pleasant taste what is achieved with less salt and shorter smoking times. Refrigeration takes care of preserving foods.
Beside enhancing the taste and look, smoking increases the product’s shelf life. It helps preserve the meat by slowing down the spoilage of fat and growth of bacteria. The advantages of smoking fish are numerous:
The main reason to smoke fish at home today is to produce a product that cannot be obtained in a typical store. One can order traditionally made products on the Internet but they will be very expensive.
Smoking meat is exactly what the name implies: flavoring meat with smoke. Using any kind of improvised device will do the job as long as smoke contacts the meat surface. The strength of the flavor depends mainly on the time and density of the smoke. Smoke is a mixture of air and gases created during wood combustion. What we see is a stream of gases such as nitrogen, carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide, water vapor, and sulphur dioxide that carry unburned particles such as tar, resins, soot and air borne ash. The actual composition of the smoke depends on the type of wood, its moisture content, combustion temperature, and the amount of available air. It is estimated that smoke consists of about 10,000 individual components and a few hundred of these are responsible for the development of a smoky flavor.
The air draft, which might be considered the smokehouse sucking power, sucks in the outside air and combustion gases that in turn attract solid unburned particles such as soot, ash and others. This stream rushes inside of the smoking chamber where it collides with hanging meats and with the walls of the chamber. A stronger air draft and higher temperature increase the energy of the smoke which results in more intense smoking. The amount of moisture on the surface of a product plays a role in color formation and the color develops faster when the surface is wetter. This also results in a much darker color as particles such as tar and soot easily stick to the surface.
Smoking meat consists of the following steps:
Meat can be smoked yet still be raw inside. It must be cooked to proper temperature before it is ready to consume. This cooking process may be accomplished in a smokehouse or in an oven. Some products are smoked at low temperatures and never cooked. The safety of these products is obtained by heavy salting and removal of moisture. Such products are cold smoked.
Many people assume that each method uses rigidly implemented range of temperatures and processing times, but this is not true, especially for the hot smoking method.
After smoking the fish will weigh less due to the loss of moisture. The yield of the hot smoked fish is about 70-75% in relation to the weight of the fish before drying. The yield of the cold smoked fish is about 55-60% in relation to the weight of the fish before drying. The majority of fish is hot smoked today as preserving them is accomplished in a refrigerator. Canning takes care of fish products that need to be stored for a long time without refrigeration.
Cold smoking is an old technique that was practiced not because it produced great flavor, but because it helped to preserve meats. There was no refrigeration, but meats had to be preserved. Cold smoking is drying meat with smoke. Its purpose is elimination of moisture so that bacteria would not grow. This technique developed in North European countries where the climate was harsh and winters severe. When meats were cold smoked for 2-3 weeks, yes, the meat became preserved due to the loss of moisture, but it was drying that made the meat safe. If the same meat was dried at 54° F (12° C) without smoke, it would be preserved all the same. Fish is smoked below 80° F (26° C) from 1-5 days. Temperatures above 80° F (26° C) will cook the fish. Cold smoked fish is considered raw meat as it is never exposed to high temperatures. That is why it has to be heavily salted or brined at 16% salt (65 degrees brine or higher) to provide safety to the consumer. The best range of humidity for cold smoking at 80-85° F is 60-70%.
There is no cooking. The longer the smoking period the more moisture is removed, the drier the product becomes, and of course it develops a longer shelf life. This method of smoking can last up to a few weeks and the fish will have excellent keeping qualities. After prolonged cold smoking the fish has lost enough moisture to be considered safe without cooking. Fish that were cold smoked hold well together and can be very finely sliced which cannot be done if the fish were hot smoked. Traditionally made cold smoked products contained up to 15% salt and were smoked and dried for a long time.
Cold smoking is not a continuous process, it is stopped (no smoke) a few times to allow fresh air into the smoker. Because of the time and costs involved the cold smoking is rarely used today. In addition, cold smoked products are heavily salted which makes them less appealing to a health conscious consumer of today. The majority of hobbyists think of cold smoking as some mysterious preservation technique that will produce a unique and superb quality product. Cold smoking is not a preservation method, it will not preserve meat unless proper conditions are established for the meat to dry.
Cold smoking at its best. Waldemar Kozik is making meat products of the highest quality at the Catskill Mountains of New York.
The pigs were traditionally slaughtered for Christmas and the meat had to last until the summer. Noble cuts were cooked or salted, the trimmings were used for sausages. They needed to be dried to last through the winter. That was not easy with freezing temperatures outside. The only way to heat up storage facilities was to burn the wood that produced the smoke. There were two choices for protecting meats from the heat:
The firebox was connected with the smokehouse by an underground channel that would supply heat and smoke at the same time. A large smokehouse was also a storage facility; after meat was smoked, it was hung in a different area where it continued to receive some smoke, although on a much smaller scale. This prevented molds from growing, as molds need oxygen to live.
American style colonial smokehouse.
Lithuanian smokehouse with an outside smoke generator.
It had been established that meats dried best when the temperatures were somewhere between 50-60° F (10-15° C)
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