Stockings Were Original Made Of Leather
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Stockings Were Original Made Of Leather
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Stockings were either knitted or cut from woven cloth and sewn to fit the leg. They were attached to men’s breeches by points, or strings, which were also used to secure other garments; later, sashlike garters replaced points. Both men and women wore stout leather…
With the short skirts, flesh-coloured stockings were introduced, made from expensive silk or more practical lisle or wool (other colours were also worn). Corsets disappeared to be replaced by brassieres and elasticized girdles. Probably the most revolutionary change was in the coiffure. Hair was first cut shorter by trendsetters even…
Stockings are among those pieces of clothing that elude research: They were
rarely written about and there are few extant ones on display in museums. Men's
are seen often in pictures, but one can't deduce much from them.
Apart
from the familiar knitted stockings, there were also those made of woven fabric,
felt or leather. Knitting and related techniques had been known for centuries,
but it seems that woven (i.e. non-elastic material) seems to have been preferred
at first. That's a bit strange since the elastic qualities of knit make it so
very suitable for smooth-fitting stockings. A possible explanation is that it
was easier and cheaper to weave thin fabric than to knit similarly thin material.
The kind of sock that grandma used to knit simply weren't fine enough for fashion,
while stockings knitted finely enough were awfully expensive because of the
awful lot of work that went into them - while they probably didn't last much
longer than the nylons today, considering the period washing techniques.
Relatively early - I don't have the source that mentions the year handy - a
knitting machine was invented. It must have been in the early 18th century.
Anyway, the machine made it possible to knit stockings much faster, with less
manual labour, and therefore cheaper than before. This made knit stockings available
to a wider range of consumers, so that stockings knit of cotton or silk became
more common.
A
stocking made out of a non-elastic or only slightly elastic material can, of
course, not be made without seams as is the case with modern socks. So the stocking
was made of two pieces: The larger one forms the shaft, heel and upper paret
of the foot, the smaller one the sole. The sketch on the right (click to enlarge)
gives you an idea of how the parts are shaped. The dotted line shows where the
seam runs: Down the centre back of the leg and under the heel. For a better
fit, a wedge (known as clock) was inserted where the slits are drawn into the
larger part, going up well above the ankle. The clocks were often of a different
colour from the rest of the stocking and decorated with embroidery.
Either round-knitting was not invented yet, or it wasn't used - at any rate,
knit stockings were made in the same way as woven ones, i.e. one (flat) large
part and one smaller part, possibly with a decorative knit pattern where the
clock would sit. It was not necessary to make a clock, but it was simulated,
probably because it was so elegant. The seam at the back of the leg was even
simulated in the 19th century, when stockings were mechanically round-knit.
Even today, one can buy nylons with a (phoney) seam. It's a big advantage for
those of us who can't knit: We can sew period stockings out of T-shirt knit.
It's both unnecessary and useless to offer a pattern: One patteren will hardly
fit all, while designing your own is easy. Moreover, the pattern varies depending
on how elastic the material is: A stocking knit out of sock wool needs to be
narrower than one made of T-shirt-knit, which in turn needs to be narrower than
one made of woven fabric. You will have to experiment a bit.
If possible, have your measurements taken by someone else while you stand upright.
The important measurements are
Where the stocking is supposed to end is a matter of taste, but in any case
it should be well above the knee. Before c. 1750, one often sees how men pull
the stoccking over the hem of the breeches and fold them back down again,
so I deduce that the stocking ended two hands above the knee.
Take
a large piece of paper and draw onto it a straight line which shall be the length
of the stocking. Make a big marking near one end - that's where the heel meets
the ground. For each point where you've measured the leg circumference, mark
the distance from the ground at which it was taken on the longer leg of the
line. Draw a line through each of these points at right angles to the base line.
On those cross lines, mark off half of the measured leg circumference on either
side. Mark the overall length of the foot from the "big marking" towards
the shorter end of the base line. From the tip of the foot you have now marked,
measure back towards the "big marking" the length of the upper foot,
i.e. from the toes to the point where it becomes the leg. That point will be
the end of the back seam underneath the heel. Connect the points you've drawn
onto the right-angle lines with a smoothed line which runs vertically from ankle
to heel, then curves inward to meet the last marking you've made. That line
is the same as the dotted one in the above sketch.
As for the foot part, you've already measured off the length. Draw another
line at right angles and mark 1/4 of the circumference of the foot, once where
the heel meets the sole and once at the base of the toes. Connect the dots again,
rounding the foot part off around the toes. The sole is the same shape as the
foot part.
If the stocking is made of woven fabric, cut it on the bias so that you get
at least a hint of elasticity. Make sure that the footgoes throught the narrowest
part at the ankle. If not, you'll have to either make the ankle wider or add
lacing in the ankle area. In the case of knitware, the stocking must be made
narrower than the measurements - by how much depends on the kind of knit. Check
by how many precents the knit gives, and subtract that percentage from
the width. Remember that any widthwise pull will shorten the legth of the stocking,
so you may have to make the stocking longer to make up for it.
Sewing
up the stockings should not require any explanations. As for wearing them: Of
course stockings will tend to slide down, no matter what they're made of. That's
why they have to be kept in place by garters. They can consist of a band of
woven material that is tied into a bow, or a strip of leather with a small buckle.
In either case, it is tied around the narrowest part of the leg, just below
the knee. Some contemporary pictures suggest tieing it above the knee, but that
would be impossible unless the thigh was smaller than the knee, which is extremely
rare.
But why, then, do contemporary pictures often depict ladies tieing the garter
above the knee? The most plausible explanation IMHO is that most of those pictures
are genre paintings with an erotic intent. The more leg you see, the more erotic
it is, so the painter prefers to have the skirt raised to above the knee.
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons License .
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
1823–1841 series of five books by James Fenimore Cooper
For the 1924 serial film, see Leatherstocking (serial) .
^ Franklin, Wayne, James Fenimore Cooper: the Early Years ; Yale University Press; New Haven, Connecticut: 2007. 752 p. 03001080528
^ Franklin, Wayne, James Fenimore Cooper: the Later Years ; Yale University Press; New Haven, Connecticut: 2017. 840 p. 030013571
^ Cooper, James Fenimore; The Prairie: A Tale ; Easton Press; Limited edition; Norwalk, Connecticut: 1968.
^ Cooper, James Fenimore; The Pathfinder: Or The Inland Sea ; Penguin Classics; London: 1989. 512 p. ISBN 0140390715
^ Cooper, James Fenimore; The Prairie: A Tale ; Easton Press; Limited edition; Norwalk, Connecticut: 1968.
^ Cooper, James Fenimore; The Deerslayer: The First War Path ; Wordsworth Classics; Hertfordshire, England: 1998. 423 p. ISBN 1853265527
^ Cooper, James Fenimore; The Last of the Mohicans: A Tale of 1757 ; Bantam Classics; New York: 1982. 432 p. ISBN 012000030X
^ Cooper, James Fenimore; The Deerslayer: The First War Path ; Wordsworth Classics; Hertfordshire, England: 1998. 423 p. ISBN 1853265527
^ Franklin, Wayne, James Fenimore Cooper: the Early Years ; Yale University Press; New Haven, Connecticut: 2007. 752 p. 0300108052
^ Franklin, Wayne, James Fenimore Cooper: the Later Years ; Yale University Press; New Haven, Connecticut: 2017. 840 p. 0300135718
^ Cooper, James Fenimore; The Prairie: A Tale ; Easton Press; Limited edition; Norwalk, Connecticut: 1968.
^ Franklin, Wayne, James Fenimore Cooper: the Later Years ; Yale University Press; New Haven, Connecticut: 2017. 840 p. 0300135718
^ Taylor, Alan . William Cooper's Town .
^ Lukacs 69-72
^ Cooper, James Fenimore; The Deerslayer: The First War Path ; Wordsworth Classics; Hertfordshire, England: 1998. 423 p. ISBN 1853265527
^ Cooper, James Fenimore; The Deerslayer: The First War Path ; Wordsworth Classics; Hertfordshire, England: 1998. 423 p. ISBN 1853265527
^ Cooper, James Fenimore; The Last of the Mohicans: A Tale of 1757 ; Bantam Classics; New York: 1982. 432 p. ISBN 012000030X
^ Cooper, James Fenimore; The Pathfinder: Or The Inland Sea ; Penguin Classics; London: 1989. 512 p. ISBN 0140390715
^ Cooper, James Fenimore; The Pioneers: The Sources of the Susquehanna; A Descriptive Tale ; Penguin Classics; London: 1988. 460 p. ISBN 0140390073
^ Cooper, James Fenimore; The Prairie: A Tale ; Easton Press; Limited edition; Norwalk, Connecticut: 1968.
^ James Fenimore Cooper Society's online plot summaries of the chronologically first ( The Deerslayer )
^ The Prairie novels, indicating the initial and final years of the Leatherstocking saga
^ The Pioneers
^ "Uncas will be the last pure-blooded Mohican because there are no pure-blooded Mohican women for him to marry." University of Houston study guide
^ Chief Uncas
^ "Silent Era : Progressive Silent Film List" .
Wikimedia Commons has media related to Leatherstocking Tales .
The Leatherstocking Tales is a series of five novels by American writer James Fenimore Cooper , set in the eighteenth-century era of development in the primarily former Iroquois areas in central New York. [1] [2] Each novel features Natty Bumppo , a frontiersman known to European-American settlers as "Leatherstocking", [3] "The Pathfinder", [4] and "the trapper". [5] Native Americans call him "Deerslayer", [6] " La Longue Carabine " ("Long Rifle" in French), [7] and "Hawkeye". [8]
The story dates are derived from dates given in the tales and span the period roughly of 1740–1806. They do not necessarily correspond with the actual dates of the historical events described in the series, which discrepancies Cooper likely introduced for the sake of convenience. For instance, Cooper manipulated time to avoid making Leatherstocking 100 years old when he traveled to the Kansas plains in The Prairie . [11] [12]
The Natty Bumppo character is generally believed to be inspired, at least in part, by the historic explorer Daniel Boone or the lesser known David Shipman. [13] [ page needed ] Critic Georg Lukacs likened Bumppo to Sir Walter Scott 's "middling characters; because they do not represent the extremes of society, these figures can serve as tools for the social and cultural exploration of historical events, without directly portraying the history itself. [14]
Several films have been adapted from one or more of this series of Cooper's novels. Some used one of Bumppo's nicknames, most often Hawkeye, to identify this character, e.g., in:
Two Canadian TV series were based on the character of Leatherstocking:
WQED (TV) Pittsburgh's Once Upon A Classic children's television series produced a four-episode adaptation entitled Leatherstocking Tales (1979), which won one Daytime Emmy Award for Outstanding Children's Series and was nominated for another for writing. The main character's name is Natty Bumppo, though other nicknames appear.
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