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We make our approaches to Haugesund shortly before 4am, following a couple of large supply vessels into the port, and picking up the sector lights of the first of the channel markers. The wind had died away in the evening, and Karmsund was millpond flat in the lee of the island. Entry into Skudeneshaven is through a channel, only 30 metres at the narrowest just past the lighthouse at Vikeholmen. After a couple of hours punching into the swell we find our line into the harbour, and start dropping sails for arrival. Skudeneshavn was bustling herring port in the 18th and 19th century, a boomtown during the age of sail, where fishing and shipping brought wealth to the locals and drew in workers from the rest of the region. Now traditional herring drifters in the harbour have given way to vast oil rig supply ships and small leisure boats. We slide into the wind shadow of an immense oil rig supply ship with a helipad several stories above the tip of our mast, and try to find a berth big enough for the ship. The harbour narrows down, lined with old buildings, and small boats are tied up on every quay. The wind pushes us to one spot, and we quickly make fast, though this involves running up one lane and down another, and hopping into a garden. The town still bustles through the summer, as a popular holiday getaway from nearby Stavanger, and the host of several heritage festivals, including Skudefestivalen, the largest traditional boat gathering in western Norway. In late autumn, the streets and the shore are far quieter, as weather systems sweep in from the Atlantic Ocean bringing regular wind squalls and rain showers. Violent storm 11 is every bit as terrifying as it sounds. These Vagabond Shoes are longing to stray. View all posts by vickyinglis. Skudeneshavn lies less than 30km as the crow flies from Utsira island. The wind strength beginning to build through the day. Like Loading Author: vickyinglis These Vagabond Shoes are longing to stray. Leave a comment Cancel reply. Next Next post: What I loved this season Autumn Comment Reblog Subscribe Subscribed. These Vagabond Shoes. Sign me up. Already have a WordPress. Log in now. Loading Comments Email Required Name Required Website.

Why, How and Where

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If you are looking for beautiful scenery, sheltered waters and secure harbours, the Norwegian coastline will suit you just fine. As an added bonus, except for in the most populated areas in the south, the chances are good that you will have that secure anchorage in beautiful surroundings all to yourself. And, when you choose to be in a populated place, you will almost invariably receive a warm welcome from Norwegians who are interested in visiting mariners and eager to help make your time in Norway a success. The six main choices of route we discuss below are based on departure points within the UK; however, they also provide useful information if you are coming from other places in Europe. From Harwich to Tananger Volume 2 —which is a good place to make landfall if heading north on the Norwegian coast—is about nm. Nearby Skudeneshavn not an approved Port of Entry and Stavanger are other excellent landfalls. It is also possible to make a direct nm passage to Lofoten Volume 4 , bypassing the northeast winds common along the west Norwegian coast in early summer. The great advantage to this route is that there is plenty of sea room all the way and any strong winds will hopefully be on the quarter or, at worst, on the beam. From Harwich to Mandal Volume 2 , which is a good place to make landfall if heading to the Norwegian southeast coast, is about nm. Nearby Farsund and Kristiansand also make good landfalls. From Peterhead to Tananger Volume 2 is about nm. For those on the east coast of England, the distance from Harwich to Peterhead is about nm, so stopping in Peterhead adds about nm onto the actual distance traveled. However, for those coming from the west coast of England or Scotland this could be a good alternative with a transit of the Caledonian Canal. The greatest advantage of this route is that even a northwest wind will be well abaft the beam. From Lerwick to Fedje Volume 3 is only about nm. From Lerwick to Marstein Lighthouse in the south approaches to Bergen Volume 2 , 42 nm south of Fedje, is only about nm. Shetland is not much out of the way on a route from the west UK but may be an unwarranted detour from the east UK. Orkney and Fair Isle provide good intermediate stops but in waters which are strongly tidal and truly nasty in bad weather. Nonetheless, the north Scottish islands do make an interesting destination in their own right and provide good provisioning at UK prices. From Harwich to Tananger Volume 2 via Den Helder is only nm, so the detour adds only 60 nm to the whole trip but takes 80 nm off the long passage—Den Helder to Tananger being nm. The disadvantage is that a northwest wind leaves you close-hauled at best, and possibly unable to lay the course at all, but there is still plenty of sea room and you can always bear away and run for shelter behind the Skaw. The main main disadvantage of this route are the many offshore windfarms and busy shipping lanes. It is possible to reach Norway by the Dutch and German coasts, the Kiel Canal and the Baltic, without ever having to be at sea in the dark. While this route requires a watchful eye on the weather, it does provide an interesting route that avoids the rather congested southwest Baltic. Apart from Esbjerg, all harbours on this coast are unapproachable in strong onshore winds, and even Esbjerg should only be approached on a flood tide in these conditions. On the passage north from Esbjerg, pass through the well-buoyed Slugen, inside the large windmill farm on Horns Rev. On the passage north of Slugen, pass through Nordmands Dyb, which is lighted. Hanstholmen and Hirtshals offer useful boltholes on the Danish northwest coast; departure from either will shorten the crossing to Norway to approximately 60 nm. The Norwegian coast can be roughly divided into three areas by scenery, climate and sailing conditions. Below is a brief introduction to these three areas to help you plan your cruise. For more detailed information on the characteristics of various sections of the coast, and for landfall harbours in each of these areas, please see the Introduction to each of the Harbours and Anchorages chapters Volumes 2, 3, 4 and 5. A lot of coastline , in other words! There is quite a lot of sunshine here as the westerlies, which bring most of the bad weather to the west coast in summer, are broken up by the mountain barrier and, incidentally, emptied of their rain at the same time. The solgangsbris afternoon sea breeze can blow quite strongly from the southwest, so on a passage southwards from Oslofjorden, you will want to get off to an early start, taking advantage of the weak offshore breeze that is common at night and in the early hours of the morning. Harbours and anchorages may be crowded but, on the other hand, there are more facilities geared to pleasure boats. Once north of Egersund, the coastline again flattens out but there is no protection from the sea until you enter the skerries again at Tananger. The scenery in this area is grand, rugged and awe-inspiring. There are huge fjords, which run for up to nm inland, with inhospitable shores, incredible depth of water, and almost vertical cliff walls rising m or more from the surface of the water. All this can cause squalls and unpredictable winds. Surprisingly, there may be less wind the further north you go, as the south is more on the main track for summer depressions. Though this area is much less populated than southern Norway, there are still a number of small coastal cities and hundreds of tiny village harbours. The coast between Trondheim and Lofoten has become a popular destination for cruising sailors, but outside the larger centres you may still find yourself the only visiting boat in many places. The land is lower here than on the west coast but still indented with deep fjords. Most of the coast west of Nordkapp has offlying islands, though there are gaps in this protection. Once east of Nordkapp, you are exposed to the Barents Sea, with only a few sheltered harbours. People are thin on the ground but the warm welcome you will receive as a visiting boat—an unusual event—will more than make up for any inconvenience or discomfort. At the Russian border you are as far north as parts of Greenland and further east than Istanbul. To cruise the whole coast of Norway in-depth would take a lifetime, and few of us have that luxury, other than Norwegian mariners. However, leaving your boat in Norway over one or more winters and returning to cruise in the summers is one way to get more exposure to this incredible and varied coast make sure to research Customs and Immigration regulations prior to your voyage. Sailing distances between principle ports. In order to experience some of the grandeur of the west coast as well as the good sailing of the south coast east of Lindesnes, we suggest the following:. If you are fortunate enough to return for another season, or have enough time to continue on north of Lofoten, we suggest the following:. Norway Why, How and Where. Last Updated: May 2, Why If you are looking for beautiful scenery, sheltered waters and secure harbours, the Norwegian coastline will suit you just fine. How The six main choices of route we discuss below are based on departure points within the UK; however, they also provide useful information if you are coming from other places in Europe. From England Direct From Harwich to Tananger Volume 2 —which is a good place to make landfall if heading north on the Norwegian coast—is about nm. Oil rig on passage between Norway and Shetland Shetland is not much out of the way on a route from the west UK but may be an unwarranted detour from the east UK. Via The Netherlands From Harwich to Tananger Volume 2 via Den Helder is only nm, so the detour adds only 60 nm to the whole trip but takes 80 nm off the long passage—Den Helder to Tananger being nm. Via Helgoland and the Danish West Coast While this route requires a watchful eye on the weather, it does provide an interesting route that avoids the rather congested southwest Baltic. Where The Norwegian coast can be roughly divided into three areas by scenery, climate and sailing conditions. Tananger to Lofoten Volumes 2, 3 and 4 The scenery in this area is grand, rugged and awe-inspiring. Lofoten to the Russian Border Volume 4 The land is lower here than on the west coast but still indented with deep fjords. Sample Itineraries To cruise the whole coast of Norway in-depth would take a lifetime, and few of us have that luxury, other than Norwegian mariners. Sail north to Bergen. If you are interested in hiking, spend some time in Sognefjorden. This is one of the most beautiful and spectacular fjords in Norway but with the great advantage of being only just over 20 nm long. Sail south around Lindesnes and then to Oslofjorden. Sail to an offshore island near the Arctic Circle, e. Circumnavigate Vestfjorden clockwise. Explore Tysfjorden. Return south along the mainland coast, with a stop at Trondheim. Continue on to Kirkenes. Anchor in Lille Sandbukt in order to visit the Russian border. Sail inshore via Finnsnes and Harstad and through Tjeldsundet to Vestfjorden. 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Skudenesavan buy blow