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Belarus Practical Guide Minsk. Balaton Budapest. Macedonian Wine Ohrid Skopje. Antwerp Flanders Top-5 Destinations. Haifa vs. DMZ Zone. Bohol Manila. Cappadocia Edirne Istanbul Kars. North-East Lithuania. Not in the story-mood? I tend to resent revisiting countries. Yet, that initial self-caused irritation during usually unplanned returns tends to swiftly bend into joy when my revisit confronts me with the fact that almost every country in the world, even the small ones, require multiple visits to fully explore, unravel and understand. Lithuania was no exception. I have seen parts of it, yes, more than the average citytripper… but this is just a laidback introduction, honestly. I discovered places I had no idea existed during my very first visit, even though I most definitely explored the very same country. Too busy to read now? No problem, save it for later! Once upon a time it flourished, when in the mids its location, smack-bam on the trade route from Vilnius to Riga, brought in the necessary liveliness and predominantly Jewish migration. However, the creation of the nearby border after the Polish -Lithuanian War, as well as the tragic Holocaust, put an end to this episode. So now it reduced or elevated to a hidden hideout in the forest no one but its own inhabitants seemed to have ever heard of, surrounded by the heavenly Grazutes Regional Park. My stay was enhanced by my sleepover at the house of two married rangers, who just like myself but on a more profound and permanent level were lured in by the irresistible call of the Baltic forests. Places on Earth that beg to be hiked, kayaked, cycled, cross-country skied… or whatever you can lay your hands on. Adventurer, go do it all, over and over again and with untamed enthusiasm, as spots like this one are worthy of fulfilling those outdoor yearnings. The national frenzy. Mushrooms, mushrooms, gotta collect allllll the mushrooms and hide your collection spots before the greedy neighbours get air of it! I am a passionate supporter of collecting sources of nourishments out of the woods… it has a wholesome element to it. Mushrooms are the most versatile veggies in the that sense they are either mouthwatering delicious, they get you high as a kite so far so good or… you drop dead. Alrighty-hoo… result? Of the ca. Leaving it to the Lithuanians from now on. A short 35km ride or in my case: hitchhike will lead you out of nature-made treasures, straight into the invention of men: The Lithuanian Chernobyl , but without all the drama. In fact, the reason Ignalina has been shut down is exactly because of the hysteria around the Chernobyl disaster, causing the absence of nuclear power to be an entry requirement to the European Union. Easier said than done, literally. And as it was never done before, the Ignalina staff, of which a big chunk is still employed with this task at hand, had to invent this ongoing process from scratch. That said, they were nice enough to dedicate a sheer amount of time to me in the visitor centre and even offered me a virtual reality tour through their unusual story. And it shows. In the area: Ignalina Nuclear Power Plant tours need to be reserved in advance — most are free. Unlike Salakas, one can speak of an actual town in this case. A tiny one, but Zarasai compensates for its small size with its great pleasantness. As that actually exists in Zarasai! It was there were my obsession with Sarunas Sauka started. This painter has absolutely, thoroughly lost the plot… but his genius mind managed to grab that plot by the throat and smash it right on the canvas. His work is downright mental, like a concretised nervous breakdown composed of splinters of objects, bodies and faces mocking the mundane and conventional. A bricolage of madness. God, I love this man. And so does Lithuania, as not only did he understandably receive the National Prize for Culture and Arts in his early career, he also received the Lithuanian Government Prize for Culture and Art in As he rarely holds exhibitions and stays off the net, this is a unique opportunity to shake hands with The Absurd. Besides its top-shelve art exhibition, the museum also boasts an engaging collection on women in war, as well as a photographic display of the Zarasai that once was. Yet, I enjoyed following the walkway from the Observation Deck, alongside the lake, which eventually connects to the bridge onto the little island in the middle where you can follow some short trails nevertheless. What I do recommend you doing, is tracing down Tomas on Couchsurfing. As staying with him made an already good time in Zarasai infinitely better. Not surprising, considering the total village consists of a staggering 15 houses and a sauna which smells like genitals. The name alone is reason enough to award them with a visit. A name, as it turned out, seemed to be used just for the sake of it. This was a phrase I was indeed screaming out loud, making sure that all other tour guests were not missing out on the outrageousness of that fact. I mean… Meteorites! The moon! Be ready to get entirely butt naked, except of a goofy felt hat… which somehow makes you feel even more naked. If you want to spend the night for some stargazing, prior reservations need to be made as well. Another big hell-yeahz is of course its location right within the Labanoro Regional Park, favorite of most Lithuanians. With lakes and dense forest stretches full of free camping spots and hiking trails, this is indeed a priority destination to throw on the bucket list. I was here before, as a matter of fact, during my last visit to the greater area labelled Aukstaitija National Park, of which Labanoro is part. The natural beauty of Lithuania truly is a delight to take in, and this might be the best place for it. Siauliai The first proper city on the list: Siauliai. Good luck pronouncing that one! It just happened to be the nearest one to the point where I reached the km on my hike, so it seemed suitable for a very well-deserved break of relaxation and lots of wine. The city itself turned out to not be that bad either. Nowadays we can find a lively city center, full of bars, restaurants and the daily razmataz. Their main church is rather unusual, uncannily hinting to the Cinderella Castle in Disneyland who was first, who was first!? I shortly elaborated on it in my last Baltic Camino blog, but let me just shamelessly repeat myself: The Hill of Crosses started to emerge in the 14th century, when the area was occupied by the Teutonic Knights of the Holy Roman Empire. At the time, the spot recited the desire of Lithuanian independence. In medieval times, crosses kept on being placed by Catholics for religious reasons, whereas in the s they served as memorials of the missing and murdered rebels who fought against the Russian control. The Hill even survived the Soviets, known to propagate atheism and punish any religious outbursts. Fair enough, they bulldozed the site no less than three times, but it kept re-emerging. Nowadays, an estimated , crosses crown the holy hill, which was even visited by the pope. George Church. In the area: Hill of Crosses. Another city in the area you can visit is Panevezys. However, I found it by all means less interesting than Siauliai. Anyksciai Anyksciai and I just clicked. Although, modest? One can easily see that big money has been pumped into Anyksciai, all just to please both unsuspecting or highly-expecting visitors. The babbling river is aligned with mint bicycle lanes, modernly contrasting with the historical wooden houses beautifully dotting the scenic river bands. With my eyes closed. That said, there is another very fun activity to be experienced here: a bobsleigh ride! The first spot popping into sight is undoubtedly the St. Yet, for me, it was the small but impressive art exhibition of folk-artist Stanislovas Petralka that made me thankful for being here. This unusual artist gained the necessary fame by his special technique of building his artworks out of stone dust, placing the end product somewhere in between paintings and mosaics. Another museum which is less unique in its sort, but was nevertheless quite interesting was the Narrow Gauge Railway Museum , honoring the mm gauge railway line from If you want to learn more about the town of Anyksciai itself, the exhibition in the Regional Park Office will help out for the price of one buck. Obviously, they are centered more around the natural value of this destination, as hey: surprise surprise, this place has a Regional Park as well. Anyksciai Regional Park covers an area of The territory of the reserve begins at the boundaries of the southern downtown area and stretches for 9km into the direction of Kurkliai, in the shape of a 1km-wide narrow stripe on both banks of the Sventoji river. This strip contains a perfect bicycle lane, which I conveniently used for my exploration. Botanic investigations show that there are species of higher plants growing in the reserve, 20 out of which are included in the list of extinct and endangered species of Lithuania. Personally, I gained more joy out of the Hanging Bridge hovering above the tree tops and overlooking the Sventoji river. A true highlight of my visit. In the forest area you may also stumble upon the Light of Happiness Obelisk situated on the on Liudiskiai Hill… which is in fact the gravestone of writer Jonas Biliunas. As if Anyksciai not already thoroughly pleased me, they are also the cradle of Lithuanian wine. Huh, do the Baltics even have that, I hear you frown. They indeed do, but as a wino-purist I must immediately add that the quality is questionable. Not often do I turn down a glass of wine, but in the Baltics it happened. The reason being that the grape is unfortunately not holy in the north… they dare to brew their wines from alternative fruits, such as plums, apples and whatever types of berries. Poor decision-making, yet understandable with the resources at hand. That said, of all the disappointing wines I nevertheless tried during my 4 months in the Baltics, against better judgement and always hoping for a miracle, this one from Anyksciai is actually pretty damn decent. Nowadays they welcome visitors into their premises for a history lesson in Lithuanian wine and an unavoidable tasting, but I was lucky that my incredible host had already bought a bottle for me to sample. Together with Cepelinai, a huge boiled potato stuffed with meat and topped with the in the Baltics so beloved sour cream. Lithuania has just been incredibly kind to me. Every person I met, who had never met me, made sure I felt I reached my destination. Matthew Church. Museums: Stanislovas Petralka Museum. The Anyksciai Grove Stump-littered hillocks, desolate and bare, Can anyone believe you once were fair? Where are your former charms? Where did they go? Where is your humming when the wind would blow And toss the white-wood foliage to and fro And rock your pines, as centuries ago? Where are your birds and nestlings to be found Whose chirping such contentment spread all round? Where are your living creatures large and small, The burrows and the lairs that housed them all? All, all has gone: in the deserted plain A few disfigured pines alone remain. With needle, cone and twig the earth is strewn — A barren waste the sun bakes hard in June, A sight the soul views with as much distress As ruined palaces rank weeds possess, Or heaps of rubble where a town once teemed, Or bone-dry moss where marshland softly gleamed. All that surrounds you with such beauty glows! With every scent the forest woos your nose And lively sounds you hear in every part. You sense a deep calm soothing to the heart. What scents abound! Pine resin fills the air. The scent of flowers gentle breezes bear. In clearings white-red clover, camomile And thyme with fragrance rare your nose beguile. The presence of an anthill you can tell. Leaf, needle, pine-cone have a different smell Each time you pass. A breeze however slight Will bring new scents each time for your delight. Here's aromatic cranberry and moss. Here orchard-blossom scents you come across. The forest like a living creature breathes: The nearby field and meadowland it wreathes In fragrance, while among its pines in turn The scents of field and meadow you discern. All mingle in the air, so thick they come Your nose cannot distinguish every one. It is as if wood, meadow, field combine Their richest scents to make a perfume fine Which to God's glory they are offering As they together sigh, rejoice and sing. Their voices weave a hymn of many parts To touch with perfect harmony our hearts. How fine are forest sounds, not only scents! The forest hums, resounds with eloquence, While midnight brings a silence that is so Profound you hear each leaf and flower grow, Hear tree to tree in gentle whispers call, Each star through heaven move, each dewdrop fall. The heart is hushed. Such peace reigns everywhere The soul soars heavenward in quiet prayer. But when the new day dawns with gleaming brow And blades of grass, dew-laden, earthward bow The forest wakens, night-time silence flees And day again resumes its melodies. That rustle? It's a leaf the breeze has stirred Or, stirring in its nest, a waking bird. That crackling? It's a homebound wolf who, loath To hunt by day, breaks through the undergrowth. A captured duck the fox bears to his lair, A badger scurries from his burrow there, A roe bounds past, a squirrel neatly takes A flying leap onto a bough that shakes, A stoat or marten rummages about… The forest creatures are all up and out. There was a time, a time when beauteous calm The forest breathed, our hearts to soothe and charm. For Lithuanians relish calm and ease As lush grass relishes a gentle breeze That stirs dark ripples as it passes by: We often weep in woods, not knowing why. For it is there we feel a pain is eased, The heart soothed and anxiety appeased; Warm tears born of a sentiment unique Come rolling then like pearl dew down the cheek. Long afterwards our lungs breathe the forest air, Our breast as gently stirs as pines do there. Such deep tranquillity pervades the soul It bows as wheatears do when ripe and whole. This is the source from which our tears and sighs, Our solace and our poetry arise. Now all has gone… In the deserted plain A few disfigured pines alone remain. Our folk have always lived at one with trees And know few closer lifelong friends than these. With windfalls only would they heat their hut, Plait doors from branches, no boards would they cut And no axe to a trunk they ever laid Unless the tree already was decayed. In turn the forest soothed and gave delight, Loved Lithuania's folk with all its might. It clothed and fed them, sheltered them as well, To bar the way to enemies it fell, In evil days — a refuge from our foes, In time of grief — a place of sweet repose, In happy days its charms it would unfold, At all times granting blessings manifold. Then hard times came. Of hunger people died, Made bark soup, baked their bread with moss inside. Such starving folk who hardly eat at all In time of plague like trees will reel and fall. The forest pitied them, dew tears it shed And wet its crowns in grey clouds overhead. A blessing on the hand that wields an axe! Their children groaned — the ax salvation spelled. Their children's children sighed, cut more trees down. Their great-grandchildren carted logs to town And when to market forty loads they sent Rejoiced, assured of one day's nourishment. With timber so abundant prices fell. They sold until there was not much to sell. Whatever money they received they drank And into ways of dissolution sank. And so no forest did our fathers find, Yet found they were like brothers of one mind To save land for the trees for which they pined, So sorely bitter tears would their eyes blind On viewing stumps: for Lithuanian souls Whom forest beauty nurtures and consoles In treeless bleak expanses run to seed, They wither and expire in sorest need. Our treeless generation from old songs Learns forest lore and for a forest longs. Our folksong from a love of trees has grown And all the songs were to our fathers known. So now a pinewood patiently they reared And in their loving labors persevered. They raised a handsome pine grove, dense as reeds. The young at heart and children were well pleased. Such care of their new grove did people take No twig, however tiny, would they break Anyksciai town rejoiced — the trees looked good. And people went elsewhere for firewood. Check here. Easy visa application here. Soviet troops shoot civilians. Litas currency. Complete soviet withdrawal. Centre-right coalition. The Veg Situation: Going veg could be complicated in Lithuania, as traditionally meat and fish are central in most meals. That said, most supermarkets contain veg products, be it very processed at times. Veg restaurants can be found here. Even though prices are steadily rising in Lithuania, you will still be able to find some affordable deals. Without being paid to say so, I found Booking. Couchsurfing: allows you to stay with locals. Nowadays it has a moderate sign-up cost unless you put a third-world country as homebase , but paying extra for verification is unnecessary: Positive reviews are way more important. In order to get accepted, make sure to write an elaborate review explaining why you applied to this specific profile and think you and your host are a good match copy-pastes tend to be ignored. The Couchsurfing community in Lithuania is rather big and dedicated. I had 4 Couchsurf stays during my latest visit. Wild Camping: is entirely legal in Lithuania, with the exception of private land. Tap Water: is safe to drink. Wise also has the lowest fees for sending money to foreign accounts. NOVVR-NL Most Lithuanian ATMs charge a fee for cash outs especially when your card is in another currency than euros , but card payments are generally accepted everywhere, even in the countryside. Simcard Lithuania: You can continue using your EU simcard in Lithuania, as a chunk of your data will still work in other European countries. You can simply buy them in the brand stores, supermarkets, gas stations, kiosks and post offices. No ID is needed. Transport Walking: Most cities and towns in Lithuania are very pedestrian friendly. Lithuania also has several long distance trails crossing through different parts of the country. Cycling: I found the traffic to be quite intense in Lithuania, with many reckless drivers. Therefore, be very careful when opting for a cycling trip. Public Transport: The capital Vilnius offers a combination of buses, express buses and trolleybuses. In the countryside there are only less-frequent buses that only go once or several times a day. You can top up the JUDU or Vilniecio card for payment, available in train- and bus stations, airports and kiosks, or buy tickets online at the m. Ticket or Trafi apps. It is also possible to buy a more expensive paper ticket from the driver, paying in cash. Intercity Buses: are very frequent in the bigger cities, but generally only go once or a few times a day in the countryside. Therefore, prior planning is key. In Lithuania, you can buy tickets online at Autobusubilietai. The further in advance you buy your ticket, the cheaper it gets. Car Rental: is pretty cheap in Lithuania. However, the best deals can generally be found when the car is picked up from the airport, from other locations it can be 3 or 4 times more expensive. Hitchhiking: is relatively safe in Lithuania and people seem to be rather used to it. I hitchhiked on plenty occasions in Lithuania and I always managed almost instantly as a woman alone. This service is and will remain free. Read more about Korea's national parks!

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Siauliai buying blow