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Brazen Bulgarian gangs 'terrorise the elderly and rob them over their life savings with increasingly aggressive phone scams nettling millions of euros,' according to an AFP story. Bulgarians have benefited a lot from their EU membership, with incomes rising and Brussels overseeing politicians, according to a New York Times piece. German businesses prefer to trade with Bulgaria rather than invest into the country, an article on DW Bulgaria's website argues. The truth about Bulgaria and Moldova's presidential elections is 'more complicated' and should not be reduced to pro-Russian candidates winning, the Economist says. President-elect Rumen Radev 'struck a chord with voters by attacking the status quo and stressing issues like national security and migration,' AFP agency writes after the presidential vote on Sunday. USD 1. News in:. Tweet Share. Send to Kindle. Text and photographs by Albena Shkodrova Balkan Travellers Patriotic ruins, a Coca Cola-branded mosque, a 'stud factory' and a capsule, containing a message for future generations: these are only part of modern Shumen's surprising charms If there were three places in Bulgaria where one would never consider spending a week of vacation, those would probably be Pernik, Karnobat and Shumen. The last one, however, does not deserve its wretched reputation. Even though the architectural megalomania of the s has ruined a large part of the old centre, having raised a number of grotesque constructions that are now unfortunately visible from all parts of the city and its surroundings, Shumen is unexpectedly pleasant, fun and diverse. The series of ancient Bulgarian ruins, the country's oldest mosque, the horse-breeding farm inherited from the Ottoman Empire, Battenberg's residence and its calm provincial rhythm make Shumen a place where one can spend a few days filled with daily discoveries. Among the lanes of the three-kilometre long road to Shumen, there are not a few, not dozens, but hundreds of flags lined up. Their stately flapping in the wind creates a funny, old fashioned tension that one would expect to culminate in an elaborate military parade. Instead, the town, a bit disappointingly, starts with an industrial zone. Shumen is an authentic provincial town. Pedestrians are buying bagel-like snacks, the newspaper vendors are yawning and the colourful crowd sits on the sidewalk tables as if it never left them. On one end of the main street stands the Russian monument and the centre of the old town is at the other. In order to create the square in front, wide as a desert, at least a few dozen of the Austo-Hungarian style houses with which all of Shumen was built up had to be demolished. In their place, there now stand three buildings of a remarkable ugliness: an unfinished concrete tower, the erstwhile state-owned hotel creatively names Shumen and a marble-covered residential block, bearing a sign which says Club Orgasm. If one tries very hard, one can forget about his peripheral vision from time to time. This brings a few moments' relief, during which the monstrous silhouette of the monument of the Founders of the Bulgarian State does not dominate, much like a storm-bearing cloud, the otherwise sweet peacefulness of the town. Raised on a high hill in the centre, it is one of the most megalomaniac creations of the former socialist rule. Its supposed weight is about 1. Two winters ago, a horse hoof broke off the tip of the monument: various sources claim that it weighted between two and five tons. It did not kill anybody only because there were no visitors during the February cold. Going along with the s megalomania, there is a capsule containing a message to future generations buried in the monument's foundations. According to the tour guides, who seem to remember startling details, the message was laid into the ground by the top figure of the erstwhile Bulgarian Communist Party, Pencho Kubadinki himself. After crossing the town's central square, one starts descending towards another one of Shumen's landmarks with dramatic tension in the fundament - the Tombul Mosque. Even though it has been undergoing restoration for years and there are Coca Cola stickers visible on its windows! It was built in the eighteenth century by Sherif Halil Pasha. The locals, with historical patriotism, like to complain that its foundations were laid with the white stone blocks from the two ancient Bulgarian towns nearby - Pliska and Preslav. Their ruins are not as impressive as those of Efes, Aphrodisias or the Parthenon, but they are comparable to the holy city of Phillip of Macedonia, Dion. To Bulgaria's history, they are just as important. Pliska is the first capital of the first Bulgarian state, which was founded at the end of the seventh century. The best way to see it is from a helicopter, but that is a service nobody has thought to offer yet. Archaeologists have made impressive graphic reconstructions of the ruined city, the foundations of which can be mostly seen now. Their work has brought about more inspiration than the restorers can handle. It seems they were so impressed with the recreations, based largely on guesswork, that they have begun to complete, quite eccentrically, the Big Basilica along Pliska's walls. It dominates many a new houses, built in kitchified classical Greek and Roman styles. Preslav, the erstwhile literary school and the second Bulgarian capital from AD has been spared: there, the ruins are ruins and walking among them is like walking in nature. It is good to visit it relatively early in the day, as the surrounding hills block the sun long before sunset. And some more horses The Shumen region is dominated by horses in endless ways: starting from the sculptures of horses in mid-flight, part of the monument over the town, through the two medieval capitals, founded by the Bulgarian horse-breeders and the accompanying rock relief of the Madara Horseman and ending up with a 'horse factory', Kabiyuk. This 'factory' was inherited from the Ottoman Empire, envied by Western Europe for its magnificent stallions for centuries on end. Story has it that its founder, Midhat Pasha chose the place, 13 kilometres northeast of Shumen, by applying a technique popular at the time, known as 'meat hanging. This was then used as a testament of the absence of flies, making the place appropriate for horse breeding. Thus, Kabiyuk was founded in , in order to raise horses for the needs of the Ottoman army on the Balkans. When it retreated from Bulgaria at the end of the nineteenth century, the Turkish army took away every single one of its stallions and the newly-established state found the stable empty. One of the few Bulgarian race horse breeds, known as the East Bulgarian, was selected and raised there. And even though business was never run completely in a market-based way, the farm survived as a remarkable place for walks and horseback-riding until today. Besides that, it hosts what is probably the only Museum of the Horse on the Balkans and offers a view into more recent history: the residence in which Prince Battenberg signed the Unification decree in is on the park's grounds. To put it shortly - there is a surprise around every turn of the carriage and all that - in Shumen. Nowhere, and just to the south of it. When you think about it, Pernik - the Bulgarian epitome of the post-industrial Apocalypse - will be quite an interesting place when the Balkans discover the term 'industrial archaeology'. More from Views on BG. Founded Contact us. Web design and maintenance by M3 Communications Group, Inc. Bulgaria news Novinite. The editorial staff also publishes a daily online newspaper 'Sofia Morning News. Foreign media analysis on Bulgaria and World News in Brief are also part of the web site and the online newspaper. News Bulgaria.
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