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From painted palaces to decadent desserts, abandoned silk factories to beautiful handicraft traditions, here are 17 wonderful things to do in Sheki plus my complete Sheki travel guide. Essential reading: How to travel to Sheki from Baku in I first came to Sheki in With an excellent local cuisine, vernacular architecture, curious locals and a pleasant climate, Sheki is an essential stop on any Azerbaijan itinerary , and definitely the place to go if you want to experience a part of the country that is not Baku. This Sheki Guide, first written in and updated for following my two recent trips this past spring, will show you all the best things to do in Sheki. Please note: This post contains affiliate links, meaning I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link at no extra cost to you. Learn more. It is located in northwestern Azerbaijan, kilometres from the capital city, Baku. Sheki was founded around the 8th century BC and was one of the biggest Caucasian Albanian states in the region. Sheki was an important stop on the Silk Route. Backlit by the Greater Caucasus and with a river running directly through the city, Sheki is a classic mountain city. The area has its own unique culture , fabulous cuisine, and a people who are known throughout Azerbaijan for their good humour. More recently, when Azerbaijan was part of the Soviet Union , Sheki had a flourishing silk industry and several other factories. If you like Soviet-era architecture, monuments and retro cars the Lada lives on in Sheki! I was lucky enough to stay in the heritage room on the bottom level pictured : It is completely charming with exposed stone walls, a fireplace and traditional textiles. Staff are professional and warm. For a once-in-a-lifetime accommodation experience in Sheki, book a room at the Karvansaray Hotel. Rooms are modest but comfortable in winter, there are radiators provided. Prices range from a very reasonable AZN depending on the room. Reservations can only be made by phone — see my complete guide to staying at the Sheki Karvansaray Hotel for all the details. I recently stayed here with my father and was very impressed: Honestly I think this might be the best mid-range hotel in Azerbaijan. Rooms are luxury-level comfortable and well-appointed. Staff are extremely attentive and helped us to organise our taxi to the Georgian border for an excellent price. It has stellar reviews online, too. I ended up visiting the adjoining Central Cafe a couple of times they certainly serve the best coffee in Sheki and I had a quick look around the property while I was there. Dorms both mixed and segregated are neat and tidy with nice touches including traditional carpets. The location on the main square is convenient to the bus station. I have been lucky enough to visit the palace on three occasions. Not to sound melodramatic, but it literally brings tears to my eyes every time. It is just so overwhelmingly beautiful. There is at least one blog out there that suggests you should stick to the outside and forgo buying a ticket to tour the palace interior. No offence, but that is some of the worst advice I have ever heard. Please, please, please do not skip it! At that time, this part of Azerbaijan was part of a khanate established by the Persians. Of the 10 years it took to complete the palace, eight of those years were spent on the interior. All but a few of the six reception rooms, offices and living quarters are completely covered from head to toe with miniature paintings including thousands of human characters, each with a unique face , wood inlay ceilings and Qajari-style mirrored niches. You can also see a nice example of this mirror work in Tbilisi at the State Academy of Arts , which was built in the s by a merchant named Arshakuni. Photos are not allowed inside the palace , and this rule is strictly enforced with the help of CCTV cameras. I was given special permission to photograph the palace on one of my recent visits. The most splendid feature of the palace is the coloured glass windows, which have a special local name: Shebeke. Originally they were made with paper-thin Venetian glass. There are no nails or glue used in the construction of lattice-like Shebeke — masters use a special technique to slot thousands of glass pieces into their wooden frames. There is a Shebeke workshop on the grounds of the castle where you can see this artform for yourself more details in the next section. In summer, visit the palace in the late afternoon — around 5pm — and there is a good chance the light will be streaming through the Shebeke windows at just the right angle, painting a colourful mosaic on the wooden floors. In the past, every stone floor was covered with carpets that mirrored the ceiling paintings directly above them. The walls and ceilings of the palace have been painstakingly restored by architects and master craftspeople including the Shebeke makers. As you walk through the rooms with your guide, they will explain the symbolism and meaning behind some of the more creative designs. It is meant to be a reminder that power is fleeting. The 36 metre-long facade is the first thing you encounter upon entering through the palace gates. It too is super opulent, with decorative plasterwork showing peacocks, scallop patterns and Islamic-inspired motifs in a palette of salmon, black and blue. Two year-old plane trees guard the entrance — they were here first, and the palace was built around them. There are all sorts of incorrect names and locations pinned for different palaces. The Palace of the Sheki Khan lies inside Sheki Castle , a walled defensive complex at the north-eastern end of town. As a juxtaposition to the Persian-style palace, there are half a dozen military barracks that were added around by the Russians who stationed soldiers here. Some of these buildings have been repurposed as cultural venues and museums. This includes the Sheki State Art Gallery now open; free entry , and the Sheki History and Ethnography Museum still under refurbishment and closed at the time of writing. The grand brick building close to the palace is also being renovated and will reopen as an Art Residence , with hostel accommodation, co-working spaces and craft workshops all under one roof. On my last visit, the building was under renovation and the workshop display had been relocated outside temporarily. Shebeke is one of them. Made through a process called tracery, Shebeke uses wooden frames and fragments of coloured glass that are expertly slotted together without glue, nails or fasteners or any kind. Some panes of Shebeke contain 1, individual pieces and weigh up to 40 kilograms. Also on the castle grounds, the Nukha Three Saints Church is a round temple that was used as a Russian Orthodox Church during the imperial period. It has a very similar look to the Church of Kish see 17 on this list and according to my guide, it too was originally built by the Caucasian Albanians. At present it is empty. As far as I can tell, the museum will later reopen in a new location. One last point of interest — and something I think most people overlook — is the Castle Walls. In its heyday the wall measured 1, metres and had 15 defensive watchtowers. Fragments are still standing on both the eastern and western sides of the complex. Step inside, and you will find more beautiful wall paintings, carved wooden doors and examples of Shebeke glass, albeit on a much smaller scale. Contrary to what Google Maps and most other websites try to tell you, this is not a Winter Palace! Rather it served as a residence for relatives of the Khan, who lived here year-round. It dates back to the same era as the main palace but was decorated by a different artist. As the story goes, after the Sheki Khan was exiled by the Russians, descendants of the family continued living inside the house before it was abandoned, fell into ruin, and then was almost completely forgotten. Reconstruction began in the early s. This is no longer the case — photography is not allowed inside either of the palaces. Walking up to the castle complex and palace from the centre, you will walk directly alongside the Upper Caravanserai and its Lower counterpart up next — but you might not even realise it until you come to the main entrance. Like the palace, the Upper Caravanserai is a monumental piece of architecture. I have visited plenty of caravanserais in my life — in the centre of Tbilisi , in the Skopje Old Bazaar and elsewhere — but for whatever reason this one is just that much more impressive. Spending a night or two inside one of the 14 modest rooms — once sleeping chambers that housed Silk Road traders — is truly an unforgettable experience. Known as the Ashaghi Caravanserai or Lower Caravanserai, it dates back to the 18th century. While the Upper Caravanserai has an irregular shape that accommodates its corner location, the Lower Caravanserai has a more traditional rectangular design. Its footprint is also much, much bigger. It has been closed for renovations — its bottom-storey shops empty and wooden gates locked — for several years now. For the moment, the best way to appreciate its beauty is by photographing the street-facing facade. Try to find the back gate when you go walking down the backstreets of Sheki. But before that, I recommend going up to the rooftop for a different view of the Upper Caravanserai. Directly opposite the main gate you will see a parking area and a building set back from the road. Go inside, and in the eastern wing there are stairs and an elevator. Go all the way to the top level, and you will see a restaurant belonging to the Sheki Palace Hotel. Before you bid farewell to the Upper Caravanserai, take your time to wander up and down the row of shops nestled in its arched underbelly. These boutique shops and antique emporiums directly onto the main street. Among the businesses here are two excellent souvenir shops. The first is Kelagayi Ziya , which has been producing traditional silk scarves since Kelagayi are traditionally worn by Azerbaijani women to cover their hair. As a major centre of silk production in the region, Sheki is one of the two places where Kelagayi-making flourished. The traditional wax-resist method involves stamping paraffin oil onto the fabric with a wooden block then dip-dyeing it. The wax is then rinsed away, leaving buta paisley-like ornaments and other patterns behind. The generously sized shawls are ideal for covering your shoulders and because they are so lightweight, they are easy to carry home. The more colours used, the more expensive the piece. Prices start from around 50 USD cash only. Kelagayi Ziya also has a workshop on the outskirts of Sheki that you can visit. Ask staff for details. The petite pots with handles and a lid are small enough to fit inside a suitcase and only cost a couple of AZN each. There is another pot seller on the street in front of the castle complex. Sheki Halva is one of the most popular food products from this region. I once had a driver from Baku bring me to Sheki and before driving back, he made a pit stop at a halva shop and bought a dozen boxes of sweets to take home! Sheki Halva is a rather unusual concoction and is nothing like the halva I am used to. It is much closer to baklava. Legend says the recipe was first devised for the Sheki Khan — talk about having a taste for the finer things in life. Sheki Halva is made from crushed nuts walnuts or hazelnuts flavoured with secret spices and layered with sheets of rice flour dough called rishta, which has the appearance of stiff gauze. Once smothered in molten honey or sugar, it all melts together into one very sticky, very sweet treat. I was lucky enough to see this process in full at one of the halva workshops underneath the caravanserai. Before it is carved up, the gigantic round pan of halva is decorated with a pink crosshatch pattern of saffron and beet juice. My favourite version, dim-dim halva , is prepared with a rich blend of hazelnuts, walnuts and almonds. There are several dozen halva specialty shops in Sheki. I can personally vouch for the following three:. The tangle of cobbled roads and narrow alleyways that stretches along the northern fringe of the city is the oldest part of Sheki and the most photogenic. From there, you can continue up alongside the castle. The old silk factory , established in and now abandoned, is one of the first buildings you come to. Note the twin lion statues guarding the entrance. Circle around and head towards the Godak Minaret , which was built in Using the minaret as a guide, follow your nose through the backstreets, tracing the riverstone paths to remain inside the old town area. Following extensive renovations, the mosque complex just recently reopened in December It is a functioning mosque that visitors are welcome to tour outside of prayer times. Ancillary buildings house the Khan Museum, which displays artefacts from the period. On my last visit, I arrived to find the garden in front of the mosque deserted. I sheepishly tried the front door and was greeted by Habid, who is the Imam here. He graciously welcomed my father and I into the main prayer hall and showed us around. It is quite spectacular — the floor is layered with antique Azerbaijani carpets and the dividers that separate male and female worshippers are crafted from wood in the Shebeke style. This mosque is unlike any other I have been to before. Inside the prayer hall, right there in front of the mihrab, there are holes in the floor covered with perspex. Peer through, and you can see clay pottery remnants and ceramic pipes from the Middle Ages. Historians believe that a Caucasian Albanian temple like the one in Kish, coming up later on this list was once located on this site, which explains the multitude of artefacts and graves unearthed during restorations. It is abandoned and closed up although there is at least one working hammam in Sheki, and I have heard rumours that another one will soon be restored… , but the quintessential domed roofs have been preserved and are just lovely. As the name suggests, this hammam is embedded underground. Peek through one of the missing windows to see the inner workings of the bathhouse, including the ancient pipe system and what was clearly once a bathing pool. Not only that, but the city was itself an important producer of the much-coveted natural fabric in its own right. In , the first silk factory was built in Sheki to process fibres locally grown and spun. It seems that rearing silkworms to sell to the local factories was a popular side for all Sheki families! One of the factories is still ticking away today , apparently using the same Soviet-era machinery. I tried to talk my way into the factory on my first trip to Sheki, but sadly I was turned away! You can, however, visit the small gift shop attached to the factory where silk carpets and Kelagayi scarves are sold. Sheki is certainly a contender for foodie capital of Azerbaijan. The unique climate and historical influences in this part of the country have given Sheki a rich and varied cuisine that is quite distinct from the rest of the country. The most renowned local specialty is piti , a chunky, aromatic stew made from lamb, chickpeas, chestnuts and various vegetables. It is fatty and wholesome sometimes with chunks of lard floating on top and is traditionally served in an earthenware pot with bread on the side. Piti is both an appetiser and a main meal in one. There is an art to eating it: First you must tear your bread into small pieces and place it in an empty bowl. Using the back of your spoon to keep the chunky bits in the pot, you then pour the piti liquid over the bread. Next, you smush the remaining piti stew into a chunky paste using a special wooden pestle. Every restaurant in town serves piti — I will leave it up to you to decide which one is the best. That way you can tear your own bread. You can then ask them to step in to help with the juice pouring and stew smashing. My favourites are:. Georgia might be the birthplace of wine , but Azerbaijan has its own much smaller wine industry too — especially in the northern part of the country around Sheki where many of the communities are ethnic Georgians. And despite being an Islamic country, many Azerbaijanis do drink, thus you can find wine and spirits on most but not all restaurant menus. Archival photographs of their factories and the first wine bars in Baku where their bottles were sold decorate the tasting room at Khan Wine House , a lovely little wine bar and boutique located underneath the Sheki Palace Hotel. Founded five years ago by Vusal, a sommelier who was born and raised in Sheki, it stocks a nice range of Azerbaijani wines including everything from Saperavi to pomegranate wine. Drop in for a quiet glass with Vusul — he is a kind, open-minded guy who is always up for a chat. And when it comes to wine, he really knows his stuff. He is planning to open a new bar in Sheki soon — watch this space! This market is humongous, with different marked undercover sections for spices, nuts, fish and meat, etc. Around the outside and spilling out into the surrounding streets are hundreds of stalls selling fruit and vegetables. Taza Bazaar is a popular place to shop for Sheki halva and there is an entire row dedicated solely to vendors peddling mammoth pans of it. There are different price points depending on the nuts used. I also found this Soviet-era sculpture on a high wall. Unfortunately, it is mostly destroyed but you can get the gist of the work from the panels that remain: Two ladies holding a bolt of fabric while people work on silk spinning machines in the distance, and two men cradling great copper plates and jugs — this sculpture must have been devoted to traditional Azerbaijani handicrafts. The memorial itself is an interesting piece of architecture, with a sculptural spire that resembles several Brutalist monuments in Tbilisi. The dates on the building, , represent the years of the US-Soviet Alliance. You can get a nice view of Sheki city and the mountains from the elevated memorial and the streets surrounding it. We were actually aiming for a higher hilltop viewpoint, but it started raining before we could find it. If you have the location, please leave me a comment below. The trail starts from Kish and leads high into the mountains. The hike to Galarsan-Gorarsan Fortress is in the same area. It too is very old and very charming, with narrow streets wrapped in high riverstone walls. Thought to be the oldest Caucasian Albanian Temple in the region, it is one of around churches of its kind that are protected monuments in Azerbaijan. In the past the church was used by Orthodox Georgians. In , it was converted into a museum. The inside of the church contains a display of coins, weapons, stone engravings and other artefacts uncovered in the area. Some of these individuals were taller than two metres, which has spurred a theory that the Caucasian Albanians came to these lands from the Nordic countries. Around 5, people who identify as Caucasian Albanians live in Azerbaijan today. A taxi up and back, including wait time while you tour the temple, should cost around 10 AZN. The chefs specialise in regional food — we had the sudlu ash plov and it was absolutely incredible and huge — you need at least four people if you have any hope of polishing it off! A local friend brought me here the first time and I liked it so much, I came back with my dad when he was visiting. They have a great local wine list actually Vusal used to have his bar here in the basement! Of the meals we ate, my favourites were the nar qovurma, a pomegranate and beef dish, and the nardanja, chicken with pomegranate, walnuts and cinnamon. For dessert there is Sheki Halva by the slice. AKA Restaurant Gagarin, this restaurant pays homage to the Soviet cosmonaut and has a very cute sign out the front. The outdoor garden is very pleasant and the piti is top-notch. Click here to open and save my Sheki Map via Google Maps. This means that it is impossible to cross into Azerbaijan from Georgia overland you can, however, travel the opposite way into Georgia by foot — more details below. For the time being, the best way to get to Sheki from Georgia is via Baku. Detailed guide: How to travel from Baku to Sheki. Marshrutka vans and large coach buses both leave for Sheki from the International Bus Terminal in Baku see the location here on Google Maps — and trust me, it is not permanently closed as Google suggests. Travel time is 5. At present, there are at least four services daily at 9. Double check times locally or online here. The road from Baku to Sheki is quite steep and windy in parts, so pack some non-drowsy motion sickness medication if you need it. Buses terminate at Sheki Central Bus Station. When you arrive, exit the station and start walking north. There is a bus stop in front of the UniBank by the fountain where you can pick up a city bus going to the centre or castle area. Alternatively, a taxi to the centre from the bus station should cost AZN. When I recently visited Sheki with my dad, we chose to take a one-way transfer tour to Sheki stopping at Shamakhi, Lahic , Gabala and a bunch of other places along the way. It was very efficient and comfortable and a great way to see all the places you usually miss when travelling by public transport. It is very flexible with lots of options to customise. We ended up staying a night in Gabala along the way, but you can quite easily continue to Sheki on the first day to give yourself more time. You also get to choose where the tour ends: In Sheki, back in Baku, or at the Georgian border. Check prices for the transfer I used here on Viator. Another option is to take advantage of the overnight train service from Baku to Sheki. There are three types of train ticket available — plaskard a seat in a carriage for 7. Tickets can be purchased at the station or online in advance through the official Azerbaijan Railways website. When searching for tickets on the website, enter Baku Pass. Trains arrive at Shaki Railway Station, ish kilometres from the centre of town. A taxi into Sheki should cost around 5 AZN. I did this in May , crossing at Lagodekhi. There is no cross-border transport so you will need to do the trip in at least two stages. The easiest option is to take a taxi from Sheki directly to the border, which is kilometres around 2 hours west. If it is quiet, crossing the border takes around 40 minutes, including the metre walk across the river between the two checkpoints. One option is to book a driver via GoTrip , being sure to tell them that you will rendezvous at the border. It is also possible to get to the Azerbaijan-Georgia border by minibus. From Sheki, take a bus to Balakan the closest town to the border at 10am or 2pm for 5 AZN, then use a local taxi to travel the remaining 15 kilometres. When the border reopens, cross-country marshrutka vans from Qax to Tbilisi should resume. Refer to my Azerbaijan bus transport guide for full details. Here are some of the websites and services I use for planning a trip to Azerbaijan and the Caucasus. Remember to check out my full list of travel resources for more tips. Get to know Baku on this Old City walking tour , or join this panoramic night tour to see Baku in her best light. I am going to Baku and I wish to cover Sheki too. I have 5 nights so I was thinking of doing Baku first and spending last two days to go to Sheki and heading for airport directly. Is this doable? Can I get a cab which would take me that way? I did it once myself. Just give yourself plenty of time to get back to the airport as traffic in Baku can be heavy. I have read through every page of your travel… its very detailed and helpful. Thank you. Are there any transport available from Sheki to Gabala or any local tour operators that can take us to Tufandag Mountains. There are Mercedes mini buses that go between Gabala and Sheki. They are reasonably comfortable, take about 2 hours and cost 5 Manat. Bus station in Sheki is in the new part of town and the one in Gabala is next to the bazaar, a few kilometers south of the center. Hi Sumi, you can see just about everything in one day. If you have time, two full days is ideal for walking around the old streets and soaking up the atmosphere. I am writing this comment directly from the bus station — The marshrutka seems quite uncomfy, tiny and crowded… Is there enough room to store bigger luggage from international travelers? Hi Fabricio, there is not much room for luggage but if you arrive early at the bus station then you will probably find a spot. The driver will help you out. Hi Kel! From memory, the road was pretty smooth and straight. I am prone to motion sickness but I was fine on that trip. The roads closer to sheki seem to be undergoing maintenance, it was super bumpy but no where near unbearable! I am coming to Azerbaijan in October for a week. Reading your site makes me wish I was staying longer! Great website. Great to hear! Local trains in AZ are pretty slow, but I think you can get to Ganja in about four hours. Sheki is wonderful, but sadly no trains, only buses. Thank you for your wonderful blog! Visited the winter palace today — which my guide knew nothing about so I would never have seen it without your post and very glad that I did…it was amazing! I am in Sheki and not in love with it. Actually very very far from it. Looking forward to move on from here. Sorry to hear that, Ricardo! Was it something particular about Sheki? Perhaps your tips could be helpful to other travellers. Thank you so much for this amazing post about my hometown! You are very welcome to my city of silence when you want!!! I feel I have to see shebeke craftmanship at least once before I die! Your post and Sheki have my heart. Hello i am trying to find a reservation in sheki in the karavansaray hotel. The number in the internet is not working. Thank you Kevin! Seeing and learning about shebeke was a definite highlight of our time in Azerbaijan. Craftsmanship never ceases to amaze me. Your email address will not be published. Skip to content. Sheki, a city set in the Greater Caucasus mountains. Table of Contents. Baku to Sheki transfer tour When I recently visited Sheki with my dad, we chose to take a one-way transfer tour to Sheki stopping at Shamakhi, Lahic , Gabala and a bunch of other places along the way. Azerbaijan essentials Here are some of the websites and services I use for planning a trip to Azerbaijan and the Caucasus. Previous Previous. Next Continue. Hi How many days do you reccommend to stay in Sheki? How to get Sheki from Qabala? Hi Emily! I really wanted to take the marshrutka to Sheki to save some time.. Hi, can you tell me about the roads from Baku to Sheiki? Was a smooth ride? I hope this helps! Thank you Emily. Heading there next week. Looking forward. Do you know whether it is possible to do any good day trips by train from Baku? Hi Wilbur, Great to hear! Enjoy your time in AZ! Oh wow! Enjoy your time in Azerbaijan and thanks so much for taking the time to comment! Thank you, Sabina! I love your home town. Hi, i am from Azerbaijan. I can help anyone to come to Sheki and other ancient historical places. I can help anyone to can ro Sheki and other ancient historical places. Thanks for that rare glimpse into Azerbaijan. The description of Shebeke is marvellous. Leave a Reply Cancel reply Your email address will not be published. Home About Toggle child menu Expand. Places Toggle child menu Expand. Asia Toggle child menu Expand. The Caucasus Toggle child menu Expand. The Balkans Toggle child menu Expand. Europe Toggle child menu Expand. South America Toggle child menu Expand. Inspiration Toggle child menu Expand. Resources Toggle child menu Expand. Newsletter sign up. Toggle Menu Close. Search for: Search.

17 Magical Things to Do in Sheki: A Complete Guide to Azerbaijan’s Silk Road City

Shamakhi buying weed

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