Setting up a new shower unit
Setting Up a New Shower Unit
A successful shower setup requires mindful planning and a great deal of work. Most of the times, you will need to do three types of tasks: framing walls, setting up the plumbing, and completing walls.
Preparation
Firstly, you must decide on the kind of shower that you wish to install. It is important to determine whether the picked shower is capable of dealing with specific systems and can regulate a safe level of water through the boiler. Many shower systems nowadays are designed to be versatile to different water pressures (such as kept hot water and cold mains).
It is likewise crucial to take into consideration the water pressure and the preparation of the piping and drainage for the shower
Different Types of Shower Units
Push-on Mixer: The hose pipe and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower system can be connected to the bath tap as per your requirement, and the water temperature can be adjusted through the taps. Push-on mixers are inexpensive and very simple to install. However, although the hose pipe connection is basic, it is quickly removed. Additionally, it is inconvenient to change the temperature.
Bath/ Shower Mixer: The pipe and spray of this type of shower are combined with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature level can be adjusted through the bath taps. It is a very cheap choice and no extra plumbing is involved. Nevertheless, the bath/shower mixers also experience troublesome temperature level control choices.
Manual Mixer: The tube and spray of a manual mixer shower unit belong of the wall system and the hot and cold water supplies are linked to a single valve The temperature level and pressure of the water are managed through either one or a range of knobs (in more costly showers). Although temperature control is much easier in manual mixer types, they are more costly than the previously discussed mixers. They likewise require additional plumbing of hot and cold supply of water pipes.
Thermostatic Mixer: The tube and spray of this shower type belong of the wall unit and the hot and cold water supplies are linked to a single valve here too. It is complete with a built-in stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature and to prevent it from ending up being too hot. Among the most significant benefits of a thermostatic mixer shower type includes practical temperature control. Nevertheless, it is the most expensive of the various mixer choices.
Power Shower: A power shower is a single unit consisting of a powerful electrical pump that can altering both the water pressure and temperature level. This kind of shower can be fitted if there is water system from a cold water tank and a hot water cylinder. A power shower makes the modification of both pressure and temperature level simple. On the other hand, it is unsuitable for water warmed directly by the shower or where the water is provided by a combination boiler under mains pressure.
Electric Shower: An electrical shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it heats the water electrically. It is essential to keep in mind that for this shower type to be set up, the mains pressure needs to be a minimum of 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The unit allows the temperature level and pressure to be adjusted plumber near Melbourne through a knob. Designs with temperature stabilisers are better as they remain untouched by other taps in other places in usage within the home. A significant downside of electrical showers is that the control knob just allows for the alternative of high temperatures at less pressure, or lower temperature levels at a greater pressure. This is troublesome in the winter season when the spray is typically weak and the mains water is cooler. However, this problem is taken on in some designs which are readily available with a winter/summer setting.
Method
Depending on the kind of shower you want to install, the shower head need to either be fitted in order to prevent its contact with the water in the bath below or the base tray, or it should have a check valve.
Before beginning, it is suggested to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to plan the pipe-work included. Furthermore, the drainage system to get rid of the waste water will require to be prepared. Both positions of the cable television route and the shower switch will also need to be considered if an immediate or electric shower system is being installed.
Use the direction guide supplied with the shower unit to fit the shower control.
Before fitting the pipelines that will provide the water to the shower system, it is essential to cut off the water supply. In order to protect the pipes, they should be provided a water resistant covering and likewise fitted with isolating valves. The pipelines can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the overall look.
Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.
Connect the primary shower control to the pipelines that will be supplying the water (This may need a female screw thread adapter).
Reconnect the water supply and test the pipelines for any leakages, as some may require tightening.
If you are setting up an electrical shower, keep in mind to switch off the electricity supply before making any electrical connections. As soon as these connections have been made (there need to be assistance within the user's manual), the power supply can be switched back on.
Adjusting Water Pressure to Fit Your Shower
The cold water tank plumbers available in Melbourne can be lifted to a higher height (often as low as 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wood support below it-- perhaps made up of struts and blockboards. If you select this choice, the main and circulation pipes will likewise need to be raised to satisfy the brand-new height of the reservoir.
Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is picked, it should be connected into the power supply in order to operate.
Piping and Drainage
Most Common Mistakes
# Violating or overlooking local code restrictions.
# Using pipes that are too small.
# Connecting copper to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric fitting in between the two.
# Not utilizing tape or pipe substance at threaded joints.
# Not leveling your fixtures when setting up them.
# Not installing an air space filling for fixtures.
# Cutting supply stub outs too brief to install the shutoff valves onto after the completed wall remains in place.
# Not correctly aligning tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will cause a leak.)
# When turning the water back on in your home, always run the outdoors pipe valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This debris can cause problems in your sink faucets and other plumbing trim.